Next: Kwik Sew 3276

I need a "Ladies Who Lunch" outfit. I'm on my church's scholarship committee and our Annual Scholarship Luncheon is in June. I selected this Kwik Sew pattern to use with the fabric I ordered from Vogue Fabrics-by-Mail. Last year, the luncheon was held in the middle of a record-breaking heatwave. It was over 95º and just walking from the car was uncomfortable and exhausting. I'm hoping the weather will be more reasonable this year. When I ordered the fabric from Vogue's swatch club, I didn't have a specific occasion in mind. But then I learned the Scholarship Committee's official colors are green and blue, and I realized the fabric would be perfect. (Do all church organizations have official colors?) I really love this fabric. This pattern, like most Kwik Sew patterns, is simple and presents no surprises. I'm looking forward to an uneventful and relaxing sewing process.

Finished: BWOF 01-09-130 Pants & 05-08-128 Blouse

Pants

Pattern Description: Same old fly front pants I always make.

Pattern Sizing: Plus size 44 - 52 (European)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes it did

Were the instructions easy to follow? I've made fly front pants about 5,849 times by now. I didn't depend on the instructions. I used the method in Power Sewing Step-by-Step (Betzina, 2002) for the fly front. For some reason, when I read the instructions for the extended waistband they made no sense to me at all. It was like I was reading another language. So, I made it up as I went along.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? These pants have a welt pocket in the back. Now that I have successfully experienced welt pockets, I can say, without fear or reservation, they are a feature I "particularly like about the pattern". In the past I've used the method described in Pants for Real People (Palmer & Alto, 2007). This time I made them "the real way" - with two strips. BWOF's instructions were a little confusing, so I used the instructions from Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers (Cole & Czachor, 2009). After two practice runs, I was ready to put the pocket on the pants. The pocket isn't perfect, but then what is perfect in this life? I also liked the extended waist band, but I wouldn't include this feature every time I make this pattern. Both of these features I like so much are covered by the blouse anyway.

Fabric Used: "Gabardine-like" polyester. It was difficult to press this fabric without a clapper. I have more fun when I don't have to beat fabric into submission.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: A while ago, I made a pair of BWOF pants that were too tight in the thigh area. So, this time I made a size larger than I usually make and they are too big. I'm constantly experimenting with pants fitting.

Conclusion: These are good, basic, fly-front pants and once I work out the size and fitting issues, they could be a TNT pants pattern. Some BWOF pants fit me well in the thigh area and some are too tight. Rather than take the easy, lazy way (making a larger size), I really should make a muslin and work out the fitting issues.

Blouse

Pattern Description: A short sleeved, button front blouse.

Pattern Sizing: European plus size 44 - 52

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? No, because I made a major change. See below.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I wanted to use the instructions for the bulk-free collar demonstrated in the Threads Industry Insider Techniques DVD. But, when the pattern piece is altered for this technique, it needs more fabric. I didn't have enough fabric to accommodate the change. The sleeves have a vent in the bottom and I understood the instructions the first time I read them!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? This pattern is basic and there were no design features that called out to me.

Fabric Used: 100% cotton

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: The original pattern was a long blouse. I'm not quite ready for that style yet, so I shortened the blouse by seven inches.

Conclusion: I wish this blouse were a little more fitted, but I'm afraid I might mess it up if I take it in. I admit, a muslin would have helped. When I look at both pieces together, they look good enough and I can live with them. But, I really shouldn't be settling for just "good enough". Isn't that why I sew -- to get clothes that are better than "good enough"?

No More Sewing Books

I shouldn't ever have to buy another sewing book. Ever. With my most recent purchase, everything I will ever need to know about sewing is already covered in somewhere my bookcase; most likely, in this book.

My newest sewing book is Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers (Cole and Czachor, 2009). (click the book to see ordering information from Amazon.com) I went to the bookstore at Philadelphia University to just look at the book. I didn't plan to actually buy it. Honest. The intended audience for this text is the design student who may not have a lot of sewing experience.The book tells students how to construct the garments after they've designed them – sort of a 500 page instruction sheet. The book goes from very basic information, such as how to layout pattern pieces on grain and sew a seam to more advanced techniques like how to make welt pockets and notched collars. The text is written from a designer's point of view, so the "why" of the techniques is addressed in addition to the "how". You learn why a lapped zipper might be a better design choice than a centered zipper in certain applications. This book is copiously illustrated! The features are shown in a variety of design sketches throughout the chapters. There are so many technical and fashion illustrations that the text isn't always on the same page as the illustration to which it refers and it's a little annoying to flip to page 132 to see an example of the gathered pocket described on page 122. While this book is written as a textbook for design students, home sewers can learn much by reading the highlighted "Important" notes and "Pattern Tips". The Pattern Tips provide drafting insights relevant to the topic. The Important Notes provide additional, sewing information to expand your skills. The end of each chapter has information on applying the techniques to difficult fabrics and criteria for critiquing your results.

This book, along with the books already in my sewing library, covers everything I always wanted to know about sewing and now, won't have to ask. I have the resources to design garments, draft the patterns for my designs, then sew them expertly. (hoo boy!) I don't need to buy another book until my skills match the level of books I already own. But, that doesn't mean I won't.

Hooray for Vogue Fabrics!!!

Vogue Fabrics is my new favorite online fabric store. Actually, it's not a new favorite – I've always been satisfied with the swatch club orders. But recently, Vogue Fabrics demonstrated good old fashioned personal customer care.

I was not entirely satisfied with the buttons I bought for my green fabric. When I couldn't find suitable buttons at PA Fabric Outlet, which has the largest selection I've seen in the area, I almost gave up. I didn't know where else to turn. Since I purchased the fabric from Vogue Fabrics Swatch Service, I went back to the source. I called the store and gave them the item number of the fabric and asked if they could search the store for a matching button. The associate promised someone would call me back, but I really didn't believe it (I can be quite cynical). I needn't have worried. Heather (not her real name), a sales associate called me back the next day and described the button she found. I couldn't visualize the button from her description so I asked if she could take a picture and e-mail it to me. By the time I got home from work, the picture was in my e-mail inbox. Two days later (excluding the Sunday) the actual buttons were in my mailbox.

When deciding how to spend my money, customer service is very important to me – more important than price in some cases. I was convinced that customer service no longer existed. But, Heather was extremely helpful and she went above and beyond in a way I haven't seen in a long time. I really appreciated the service and personal touch. I'm going to try to order more fabrics from Vogue. If I ever visit the Chicago area, I'll be sure to visit in the store in person.

Mitered Corner

I love it when I'm able to try techniques that are new to me. I love it even more when the techniques work! I used the technique for mitering corners that was demonstrated by Louise Cutting on the Threads Insider Techniques DVD (vol. 1) I bought a few months ago. Mitered corners are covered in a few of my books, but this method is a little different.

Click pictures to enlarge

Step 1

Press the allowances to the wrong side.

Step 2

Mark where the edges intersect with pins (or diagonal clips).

Step 3

Establish and mark a stitching line with a straight edge. The line must connect the pins and pass through the pressed corner (indicated on the left photo).

Step 4

Fold the corner with right sides together, bringing the pins (or clips) together.

Step 5

Pin and stitch the miter from the edge toward the corner. Backstitch at the beginning and end.

Step 6

Trim seam allowance to 1/4 ". Cut diagonally to the corner. Press the seam open.

Step 7

Turn right side out and admire the beautiful, bulk-free corner.

The process will work when the two allowances are not the same width. When the allowances are different widths, the fabric corner that forms (in Step 4) will be uneven and asymmetrical.

I'd read about this technique somewhere long ago. But, seeing it demonstrated on the Threads DVD clarified it and brought it to the front of my brain.

Next: BWOF 01-09-130 Pants & BWOF 05-08-128 Blouse

Currently, I'm working on my first warm weather project, which means it has short sleeves. Many of the blouses BWOF has been showing recently are "long blouses", but I'm shortening this blouse. BWOF is known for being "fashion forward". Next year, if everyone is wearing long blouses, I'll be ready to jump on the bandwagon. Shortening this blouse demonstrates how my sewing has changed over the years. The "old me" would have just drawn a straight line at the new length and cut off the extra. The "new me" determined the amount to be removed and measured up from the bottom at various points along the hemline, thus maintaining the subtly shaped hem. It's hard to see the shape of hem because it is more of a fitting detail than a style detail. Most BWOF blouses are a little longer in the front to account for the larger busts while keeping the appearance of a straight hem. Since I sew BWOF almost exclusively, I'm not sure if all pattern companies and all sizes have this feature. There is also a slit in the sleeve that isn't evident in the technical drawing, garment photograph or the style photograph. Sometimes the design details in BWOF are surprises.