Sunday, July 27, 2014

Finished: KwikSew 3586

I've sewn this pattern at least 159,375 times. If I had a nickel for every time I've made this blouse, I could buy the Bernina 710 and Horn Cabinet I'm currently coveting.  Well … maybe I'm overstating the number of time I made this blouse, but it certainly feels like 159,375 times.  However, this time is noteworthy because I may have finally learned a lesson that continues to be extremely difficult for me.  I made the correct fabric/pattern match-up!  Of course, this was a no-brainer.  Oxford cloth - oxford shirt.  But, I'm still taking credit for it.

Pattern Description
Short sleeved shirt with yoke

Pattern Sizing
1x - 4x;  The design is available in Misses size range; KwikSew 3555

Fabric Used
Oxford cloth.  This cotton oxford cloth was almost as much fun to sew as linen.  It was very easy to press.

This blouse is very easy to sew, even if you haven't sewn it 159,375 times.  The instructions contain the method for sewing a standard yoke mentioned in the previous post.

I modified the "finger felling" shirt tail hem technique demonstrated by Pam Howard.  My modification involved pinning before sewing.  I didn't have the confidence to rely totally on finger felling.  When I make this shirt for the 159,376th time, I'll try to sew the hem without pinning it first.

This short sleeved shirt is certainly more successful than the last short sleeved shirt (McCall's 6932).  I wanted to re-establish a relationship with McVoguerick.  But why should I?  I get better results with other pattern companies – without making a muslin.  I gave McVoguerick a chance and they disappointed me.

Thursday, July 17, 2014

Finished: McCalls 6932

Recently, I decided to relax my "All Burda, All the time" policy and reacquaint myself with the Big Four.  Big Four offered classic designs I liked that were perhaps too boring for Burda, whose designs are more contemporary and trendy.  I came to a realization during this process.  The problem is not the Big Four patterns;  the problem is me.  I don't like fitting and I refuse to make muslins.  If I'd made a muslin, I would have known the size I selected for this blouse was too big.

Pattern Description
This is a classic camp shirt.  The pattern can be used for both men and women.

Pattern Sizing

Fabric used
I used a linen blend.  I love sewing linen and this blend behaved very much like real linen.  It was easy to press and make neat corners on the pockets.  The only thing missing was the wrinkles!

Most sewers may be familiar with the method of attaching a standard style yoke entirely by machine.  With the standard style yoke, the fronts and back of the blouse are rolled up inside the yoke and the yoke facing can be sewn  entirely by machine.  The collar is sewn on after the yokes are attached.  M6932 is a blouse type yoke.  The method is different because the collar is attached to the neck seam before attaching the front facing and yoke facing units.  The  blouse unit and inside unit are constructed separately, the collar is sandwiched between the two units; then the units are sewn together at the neckline.  The front and back are rolled up into the yoke and the shoulder and back yoke seams are sewn, much like the procedure in the standard yoke.  I found directions for the blouse type yoke in Easy Guide to Sewing Blouses  (Long, 1997), part of the Sewing Companion Library (which is a great collection of books, though out of print).  I love the result, a very neat looking inside.

When I sew a Burda magazine pattern, I trace it and then I sew it.  I rarely make any pattern changes and, in most cases, I'm satisfied with the fit.  I can't follow the same procedure with McCall's, Butterick or Vogue.  Some pattern work is usually needed and I usually choose to not do it.  The resulting fit can be horrible and I don't wear the garment.  

I have decisions to make.  Do I hang on to my stubborn refusal to make muslins and end up with garments made from McVougericks that don't fit well?  I'm much happier with Burda garments that I can sew with minimal, if any alterations.  Do I resign myself to making muslins if I want to sew Big Four patterns?  Sometimes Big Four's boring classic designs are just what I want.  I have fabric for another blouse.  Do I make M6932 again in a smaller size?  Do I try another McVoguerick pattern?  Or do I return to old faithful Burda?  So many questions!  The immediate solution is not quite as bad as making a muslin. For now, I'll just have to take in the sides of this blouse.