Monday, June 30, 2014

Finished: BWOF 08-07-127 - Mom Jeans

I just about finished my Great Dress Project and I am moving on to my Great Jeans Project.  I need pants for my part-time, very casual work setting and jeans are the perfect choice.

The first challenge was finding the right pattern.  I wanted to get reacquainted with McVoguerick patterns so I chose McCall's 5894.  The fit was dreadful.  Enough said.

I went to my archives for Burda World of Fashion 08-07-127 and had better results.

Pattern Description:
Traditional 5 pocket jeans

Pattern Sizing:
European plus size range 44 - 52

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I wanted a TNT standard 5-pocket jeans pattern because I intend to make several pair for work.  I will be using this pattern again.

Fabric Used:
Cotton twill:  I wanted the look of 5-pocket jeans, but not necessarily in denim.

One thing, perhaps the only thing I liked about the McCall's jeans pattern was the fly treatments.  The fly facing was sewn on, not a cut-on extension and the finished fly looked like RTW jeans.  BWOF used the same fly treatment and I was equally happy with the results.  The usually confusing BWOF instructions were easier to understand because I was familiar with the process from the McCall's pattern,   in addition, Angela Wolf demonstrates a traditional fly in her Jeans Craftsy class.  I'm not sure Wolf's demonstration is exactly what BWOF was try to say.  Since BWOF instructions are not illustrated, Wolf's Craftsy class was indispensable.

On the waistband, I made a few changes in the order of construction.  The waist band had two separate sections: an inner waistband and an outer waistband.  I took advantage of this feature and sandwiched the belt loops between the two waistband pieces.

One of the fun things about sewing jeans is finding a design for the back pockets.  I chose a West African symbol known as Musuyidie (moo zoo EE DEE YEH).  It's a symbol that removes evil.

Although I want to expand my options and use McVogerick patterns  more,  this project reminded me why I turned away from those patterns.  For both the McCall's and BWOF patterns,  I selected the size according to my hip measurements and sewed both  patterns without alterations.  The difference in fit was astonishing.  No, the BWOF fit isn't perfect and yes,  there are wrinkles in the BWOF jeans. Purists would find much to change, but I'm satisfied. I can live with a few wrinkles.

Monday, June 16, 2014

OCD Sewer's Tip #1

I like to make pattern-fabric assignments as soon as I get the fabric in the sewing room.   But it can take many weeks, if not months, for me to get around to actually sewing the fabric.  So I had to come up with a way to remind me what pattern has been assigned to which fabric.  Enter Avery labels!

I print the pattern information and line drawing on Avery labels and stick the label to the fabric.

What could be easier!  Yes, I could stick just the pattern number on the fabric, but the technical drawing provides information and inspiration.  Two months from now, I won't remember that V8792 is a t-shirt with diagonal seams. If the picture is on the label, that won't be a problem.  I can also prioritize using the labels.  It's easier to decide what blouse I want to make by just looking at the technical drawings and fabrics together.

Thursday, June 5, 2014

Declaring Victory

"When Alexander saw the breadth of his domain, he wept for there were no more worlds to conquer."

I know how Alexander the Great must have felt.  I conquered Burda Style Magazine patterns and now I'm asking myself, "What next?"  For me,  Burda Style Magazine patterns were the most difficult patterns out there.  I was determined to conquer the vague, poorly translated instructions and lack of illustrations.  My plan of attack was to adopt an "All Burda – All The Time" assault.  I rarely sewed patterns from other companies.
 Burda was definitely my pattern company of choice.  Now that I can sew Burda Style Magazine patterns without trepidation, I am declaring victory.  Mission accomplished. I am ready to relax my "All Burda" restriction.

Vogue 8857
Vogue 8792
I've always loved the design details included in Burda Style Magazine patterns.  I sew plus size patterns and Burda Style often had designs and design details that were not available on McVoguerick's plus size patterns.  But sometimes, I want something simple like a plain short sleeved blouse.  I found Vogue 8857 to fill that need.  I wanted a t-shirt, but not your every day t-shirt.  Vouge 8792 was perfect.   Burda has so many more options when it comes to dresses.  However, I was inspired by a dress chosen by Carolyn at Diary of a Sewing Fanatic .  (Who hasn't been inspired by Carolyn?)   I wonder how many perfectly good patterns I never saw because I was obsessed with beating Burda Style into submission?

There is a downside to my re-acceptance of McVoguerick patterns.  Now, there is the chance that I will begin buying patterns that I never get around to sewing.  I might begin stalking Jo-Ann's pattern sales.  I was just beginning to have a pattern stash when I launched my attack on Burda.  As a matter of fact, avoiding a huge pattern stash was one of the reasons I went "All Burda".  I still love Burda Style Magazine patterns, first and foremost.  Now that I've conquered them, I feel free to use a wider variety of patterns.  Maybe the next world I try to conquer will be Marfy Patterns!