Tuesday, February 19, 2013

Finished: BSM 01-10-136

Burda Style Magazine 01-10-136
I wanted to sew a pair of jeans even though  I was several years too late for the online sew-alongs.  I have two separate Today's Fit patterns for jeans.  I considered, and almost bought the jeans pattern from Butterick's Connie Crawford collection. Fortunately, I remembered Burda 01-10-136 before I bought a third pattern for jeans.  The garments I make with Burda require very little adjustment.  Or should I say, I choose to make few adjustments to the garments I make with Burda.  So Burda was the perfect choice for jeans.  The jeans in the January 2010 issue of Burda Style have been on my to-sew list since January 2010.  It was time to finally make the darn jeans.

Pattern Description: 
Basically, these are typical 5 pocket jeans.  They have patches on the inner thighs and binding on the hip and back pocket edges.

Pattern Sizing:
These jeans are from Burda's plus size collection.  Available sizes: European 44 - 52

Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions were not as difficult as I expected.  I simply ignored the instructions I didn't like.  I used Sandra Betzina's instructions for zippers and I made a few changes to the way the waistband and belt loops were made.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Only the thigh patches make them different from 5-pocket jeans.  The thigh patches are sewn onto the legs and can easily be omitted.

Fabric Used:
Denim with a little bit of lycra for stretchability.


I'm aware of the wrinkles and folds in the jeans (as shown in the picture on the left) and I know they point to areas that need adjustment.  But, in this case I'm satisfied with "good enough".  I usually wear tops like the one pictured on the right.  Covering the wrinkles and folds is an easier than endless adjustments and remakes.

Top-stitching is important in jeans.  Topstitching is much thicker than regular thread.  I discovered, after a couple of globby messes on the underside, that holding the topstitching thread and preventing it from being drawn into the bobbin area eliminated the globby messes.  I used my favorite edge-stitching foot for the first row of topstitching and then my quarter-inch foot for the second row.

I've learned making jeans is not a big deal, so I'm sure I'll be making more.  When I make these jeans again, I will raise the waistline an inch or so.  I know the style is to wear low-rise jeans.  But, I'm not a big fan of low-rise jeans.  The trend seams to be colored jeans these day.  I'd like to try a pair of those for spring.  (Finally, I'll be wearing something trendy!)

Wednesday, February 6, 2013

A Sewer's Gotta Do What a Sewer's Gotta Do

I have not been shy about proclaiming the two things I dislike most about sewing.

1.  Sewing knits
2.  Making muslins

Recently,  I addressed my knit aversion buy purposely seeking out, buying and sewing more knits.  Now, I'm about to vanquish my other sewing demon.  I gotta to make a muslin.

I bought Sarah Veblen's fitting book,  The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting.  Why would a self-proclaimed muslin-hater buy "the ULTIMATE  reference for fitting test garments and transferring accurate adjustments to patterns"? Because my daughter got engaged and wants me to make her wedding dress! That's why!!!!

My future son-in-law is a lieutenant in the Marines and was recently deployed to the middle east (please pray for him) so the wedding won't be happening for quite a while.  In the meantime, I have plenty of time to learn to love muslins.  There are other things in my favor:

  • I've made my DD's prom gowns, so I'm not a total novice to formal wear.
  • She's bringing home a wedding dress that belonged to a co-worker's daughter so I can study it up close.
  • In addition to buying the ultimate muslin book, I have Claire Shaeffer's Couture Techniques Workshop DVD, Claire Shaeffer's Couture Sewing Techniques, and last but not least, Susan Khalje's Bridal Couture. 

Yet, with all these resources, I'm still apprehensive.  I've been sewing for more than 40 years and I've encountered lots of techniques, including some of the techniques used in wedding gowns.  It's not so much the techniques or processes that worry me (although I AM worried; especially if she wants lace), but I've never sewn a project with such strong emotional connotations.  I'll be lucky if I don't cry all over the dress!

So, if anyone has any advice, tips, sources and resources, stimulants, sedatives or liquor, please share!