tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12888461392217313812024-03-05T03:39:23.943-05:00Another CreationElarayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06487492651398001387noreply@blogger.comBlogger445125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1288846139221731381.post-86176789427549492922015-07-17T15:15:00.001-04:002015-07-19T06:43:03.805-04:00Long time – no see<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: large;">Effective immediately, my sewing projects will be on view on my <a href="https://www.facebook.com/AnotherCreationSewing?ref=aymt_homepage_panel" target="_blank">Another Creation Facebook page</a>. Feel free to take a look and comment.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Hope to see you there.</span>Elarayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06487492651398001387noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1288846139221731381.post-19117358633813891842014-08-04T07:30:00.000-04:002014-08-04T07:30:00.990-04:00Listening to Fabric<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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My original plan for this fabric was to make a dress. I searched my pattern collection and Burda index for a dress with simple styling. I thought I found one. The July 2014 issue of Burda Style Magazine showed a very simple dress pattern in style 129. <br />
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But, every time I went into the sewing room I heard a small whisper: "I don't want to be a dress." Lori, at <a href="http://girlsinthegarden.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Girls in the Garden</a>, does an excellent job of matching fabric to the right pattern. I asked myself, "What would Lori do?" And realistically, it was a little late in the season to sew a sleeveless dress. So, I listened to the fabric and even though I really liked the pattern, I decided against the dress in favor of a skirt. I went back to my pattern collection and chose an oldie but goodie, <a href="http://kwiksew.mccall.com/k3276-products-19913.php?page_id=3017&search_control=display&list=search" target="_blank">Kwik Sew 3276</a>.<br />
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Listening to fabric has always been a problem for me. There have been countless times when I was disappointed because my fabric/pattern match-up was wrong. </div>
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I though it was as simple as this:</div>
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But there is more to consider:</div>
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I'm okay with the drape and weight. It's prints that give me trouble. Many sewers can match pattern to fabric instinctively. I need to put deliberate thought into my fabric–pattern match-ups. But I take heart. It's not too late. This is a skill that can be learned. </div>
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Elarayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06487492651398001387noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1288846139221731381.post-76757799923200778072014-07-27T09:48:00.001-04:002014-07-27T09:48:31.929-04:00Finished: KwikSew 3586<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiFplgH19VklcS-DkIvzGS382seZowimqCGLnQVGZU5yxAQ44sXeaWTTPewzmNqelyhAmG1Yox8Cwg5DCoTdmlqnRQemao44Do4IkpjojrbkqOalM7uzB58ld0zWvehxBiuB_ZHhIrsH7G/s1600/Slide1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiFplgH19VklcS-DkIvzGS382seZowimqCGLnQVGZU5yxAQ44sXeaWTTPewzmNqelyhAmG1Yox8Cwg5DCoTdmlqnRQemao44Do4IkpjojrbkqOalM7uzB58ld0zWvehxBiuB_ZHhIrsH7G/s1600/Slide1.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a>I've sewn this pattern at least 159,375 times. If I had a nickel for every time I've made this blouse, I could buy the Bernina 710 and Horn Cabinet I'm currently coveting. Well … maybe I'm overstating the number of time I made this blouse, but it certainly feels like 159,375 times. However, <i>this time</i> is noteworthy because I may have finally learned a lesson that continues to be extremely difficult for me. I made the correct fabric/pattern match-up! Of course, this was a no-brainer. Oxford cloth - oxford shirt. But, I'm still taking credit for it.<br />
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<b>Pattern Description</b><br />
Short sleeved shirt with yoke<br />
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<b>Pattern Sizing</b><br />
1x - 4x; The design is available in Misses size range; KwikSew 3555<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ9kpK2bTTZ16UfRL4LUgiLKxwOJR1HRcEIH81b9yZfKxG1Qmvf5Whhpw1cJELwVIq-GZxiDAXzot4nInz6jxlltDF781gQvAEP1OOpHzvbqKF56aDeuOBjUdf7Hra9v3q1BjZ-u2PTFcc/s1600/_MG_0006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ9kpK2bTTZ16UfRL4LUgiLKxwOJR1HRcEIH81b9yZfKxG1Qmvf5Whhpw1cJELwVIq-GZxiDAXzot4nInz6jxlltDF781gQvAEP1OOpHzvbqKF56aDeuOBjUdf7Hra9v3q1BjZ-u2PTFcc/s1600/_MG_0006.jpg" height="400" width="295" /></a><b>Fabric Used</b><br />
Oxford cloth. This cotton oxford cloth was almost as much fun to sew as linen. It was very easy to press.<br />
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<b>Construction</b><br />
This blouse is very easy to sew, even if you haven't sewn it 159,375 times. The instructions contain the method for sewing a standard yoke mentioned in the previous post.<br />
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I modified the "finger felling" shirt tail hem technique <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svD7oFQNxOk" target="_blank">demonstrated by Pam Howard</a>. My modification involved pinning before sewing. I didn't have the confidence to rely totally on finger felling. When I make this shirt for the 159,376th time, I'll try to sew the hem without pinning it first.<br />
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<b>Conclusion</b><br />
This short sleeved shirt is certainly more successful than the last short sleeved shirt (<a href="http://anothercreation.blogspot.com/2014/07/finished-mccalls-6932.html" target="_blank">McCall's 6932</a>). I wanted to re-establish a relationship with McVoguerick. But why should I? I get better results with other pattern companies – <i>without making a muslin</i>. I gave McVoguerick a chance and they disappointed me.Elarayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06487492651398001387noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1288846139221731381.post-17928260650780604452014-07-17T18:21:00.002-04:002014-07-17T18:21:40.215-04:00Finished: McCalls 6932<div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Recently, I decided to relax my "All Burda, All the time" policy and reacquaint myself with the Big Four. Big Four offered classic designs I liked that were perhaps too boring for Burda, whose designs are more contemporary and trendy. I came to a realization during this process. The problem is not the Big Four patterns; the problem is me. I don't like fitting and I refuse to make muslins. If I'd made a muslin, I would have known the size I selected for this blouse was too big.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pattern Description</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This is a classic camp shirt. The pattern can be used for both men and women.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pattern Sizing</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">SM to XXL</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fabric used</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I used a linen blend. I love sewing linen and this blend behaved very much like real linen. It was easy to press and make neat corners on the pockets. The only thing missing was the wrinkles!</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Construction</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Most sewers may be familiar with the method of attaching a standard style yoke entirely by machine. With the standard style yoke, the fronts and back of the blouse are rolled up inside the yoke and the yoke facing can be sewn entirely by machine. The collar is sewn on after the yokes are attached. M6932 is a blouse type yoke. The method is different because the collar is attached to the neck seam before attaching the front facing and yoke facing units. The blouse unit and inside unit are constructed separately, the collar is sandwiched between the two units; then the units are sewn together at the neckline. The front and back are rolled up into the yoke and the shoulder and back yoke seams are sewn, much like the procedure in the standard yoke. I found directions for the blouse type yoke in <u>Easy Guide to Sewing Blouses</u> (Long, 1997), part of the Sewing Companion Library (which is a great collection of books, though out of print). I love the result, a very neat looking inside.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Conclusion</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">When I sew a Burda magazine pattern, I trace it and then I sew it. I rarely make any pattern changes and, in most cases, I'm satisfied with the fit. I can't follow the same procedure with McCall's, Butterick or Vogue. Some pattern work is usually needed and I usually choose to not do it. The resulting fit can be horrible and I don't wear the garment. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I have decisions to make. Do I hang on to my stubborn refusal to make muslins and end up with garments made from McVougericks that don't fit well? I'm much happier with Burda garments that I can sew with minimal, if any alterations. Do I resign myself to making muslins if I want to sew Big Four patterns? Sometimes Big Four's <strike>boring</strike> classic designs are just what I want. I have fabric for another blouse. Do I make M6932 again in a smaller size? Do I try another McVoguerick pattern? Or do I return to old faithful Burda? So many questions! The immediate solution is not quite as bad as making a muslin. For now, I'll just have to take in the sides of this blouse.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGMB_vzIKw55c4ct1fvm4a3fQx4-mrIaNVoQ-TYZz95Q5vDb82qjgpvqcXjepIEXE7xlQPd8E2qibrNCmVIdJiFNQVf8o5rMvWm8fRLZXGNKdBiBOV4gOsj8iF7Q_zg1PUtN3eERfhz1xR/s1600/Slide1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGMB_vzIKw55c4ct1fvm4a3fQx4-mrIaNVoQ-TYZz95Q5vDb82qjgpvqcXjepIEXE7xlQPd8E2qibrNCmVIdJiFNQVf8o5rMvWm8fRLZXGNKdBiBOV4gOsj8iF7Q_zg1PUtN3eERfhz1xR/s1600/Slide1.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: inherit; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;">I just about finished my Great Dress Project and I am moving on to my Great Jeans Project. I need pants for my part-time, very casual work setting and jeans are the perfect choice.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The first challenge was finding the right pattern. I wanted to get reacquainted with McVoguerick patterns so I chose McCall's 5894. The fit was dreadful. Enough said.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">I went to my archives for Burda World of Fashion 08-07-127 and had better results.</span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Pattern Description: <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Traditional 5 pocket jeans<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Pattern Sizing:<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">European plus size range 44 - 52</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I wanted a TNT standard 5-pocket jeans pattern because I intend to make several pair for work. I will be using this pattern again.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Fabric Used:<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Cotton twill: I wanted the look of 5-pocket jeans, but not necessarily in denim.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Construction:</span></b><br />
One thing, perhaps the only thing I liked about the McCall's jeans pattern was the fly treatments. The fly facing was sewn on, not a cut-on extension and the finished fly looked like RTW jeans. BWOF used the same fly treatment and I was equally happy with the results. The usually confusing BWOF instructions were easier to understand because I was familiar with the process from the McCall's pattern, in addition, Angela Wolf demonstrates a traditional fly in her Jeans Craftsy class. I'm not sure Wolf's demonstration is exactly what BWOF was try to say. Since BWOF instructions are not illustrated, Wolf's Craftsy class was indispensable.<br />
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On the waistband, I made a few changes in the order of construction. The waist band had two separate sections: an inner waistband and an outer waistband. I took advantage of this feature and sandwiched the belt loops between the two waistband pieces.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ElzT2jvfVLFnF5DWbvGz0OSLSSkP8gCBx9roi7kWRRiS6eR2tUZgv8cJhyphenhyphenEL6WomkYcSQiQcVPocdg6BrfzV_JuSWgRp28-gdVrLW6OrULx-6hKIYdXasebRHWBbMlkWm-wMmaSGGbrK/s1600/Slide5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ElzT2jvfVLFnF5DWbvGz0OSLSSkP8gCBx9roi7kWRRiS6eR2tUZgv8cJhyphenhyphenEL6WomkYcSQiQcVPocdg6BrfzV_JuSWgRp28-gdVrLW6OrULx-6hKIYdXasebRHWBbMlkWm-wMmaSGGbrK/s1600/Slide5.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a>One of the fun things about sewing jeans is finding a design for the back pockets. I chose a West African symbol known as Musuyidie (moo zoo EE DEE YEH). It's a symbol that removes evil.</div>
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Conclusion:</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Although I want to expand my options and use McVogerick patterns more, this project reminded me why I turned away from those patterns. For both the McCall's and BWOF patterns, I selected the size according to my hip measurements and sewed both patterns without alterations. The difference in fit was astonishing. No, the BWOF fit </span>isn't perfect and yes, there<span style="font-family: inherit;"> are wrinkles in the BWOF jeans. Purists would find much to change, but I'm satisfied. I can live with a few wrinkles.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoHeqMU9zFB18X9Z1Zg_iMAjNtbVLYL-kRO4SOTKb4aD1qhtsMU__W7iebrfk7pMBoUclN-PyczrTT3J3pbvwlegJKNptm9EL5gZfr66WBWc-pmG2mg3XFfM_LRtwZhk6X70h3JRXEfpys/s1600/Slide3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoHeqMU9zFB18X9Z1Zg_iMAjNtbVLYL-kRO4SOTKb4aD1qhtsMU__W7iebrfk7pMBoUclN-PyczrTT3J3pbvwlegJKNptm9EL5gZfr66WBWc-pmG2mg3XFfM_LRtwZhk6X70h3JRXEfpys/s1600/Slide3.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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<!--StartFragment-->But
it can take many weeks, if not months, for me to get around to actually sewing
the fabric. So I had to come up with a way to remind me what pattern has been assigned to which fabric. Enter Avery labels!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I print the pattern information and line drawing on Avery labels and stick the label to the fabric.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">What could be easier! Yes, I could stick just the pattern number on the fabric,
but the technical drawing provides information and inspiration. Two months from now, I won't remember that V8792 is a
t-shirt with diagonal seams. If the picture is on the label, that won't be a problem. I can also prioritize using the labels. It's easier to decide what blouse I want to make by just looking at the technical drawings and fabrics together.</span></div>
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Elarayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06487492651398001387noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1288846139221731381.post-58850154483882956022014-06-05T07:14:00.002-04:002014-06-05T07:14:29.792-04:00Declaring Victory<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrbC1bKnG2u92I63Jm1qMP9HFf5WNrQwgUM56IWMBYBLqdk4JJb3sSJ8-GPNuMBhINeFJHiyzEvGNScrPA0CR7dWnP816P3GLtqTUN3II7K3zkEbzWflmt1FifKznMbqtg3mHNPyM-pIHB/s1600/mission-accomplished-1.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrbC1bKnG2u92I63Jm1qMP9HFf5WNrQwgUM56IWMBYBLqdk4JJb3sSJ8-GPNuMBhINeFJHiyzEvGNScrPA0CR7dWnP816P3GLtqTUN3II7K3zkEbzWflmt1FifKznMbqtg3mHNPyM-pIHB/s1600/mission-accomplished-1.gif" height="142" width="320" /></a><i>"When Alexander saw the breadth of his domain, he wept for there were no more worlds to conquer."</i><br />
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I know how Alexander the Great must have felt. I conquered Burda Style Magazine patterns and now I'm asking myself, "What next?" For me, Burda Style Magazine patterns were the most difficult patterns out there. I was determined to conquer the vague, poorly translated instructions and lack of illustrations. My plan of attack was to adopt an "All Burda – All The Time" assault. I rarely sewed patterns from other companies. <br />
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Burda was definitely my pattern company of choice. Now that I can sew Burda Style Magazine patterns without trepidation, I am declaring victory. Mission accomplished. I am ready to relax my "All Burda" restriction. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnVZ9QVhoOMr_WZP9tjgN4U-KJVOhFhtBy4otE4XqeNaB8hOFC2OZVDsOVvINhpcp6qbLqn6HnyWauBFKhQSRJyfgdHr6W0RWRhhWorjnLN9HR6bBGAAUEf51cYxxMfuLsf-hm5gfHtFOX/s1600/V8857.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnVZ9QVhoOMr_WZP9tjgN4U-KJVOhFhtBy4otE4XqeNaB8hOFC2OZVDsOVvINhpcp6qbLqn6HnyWauBFKhQSRJyfgdHr6W0RWRhhWorjnLN9HR6bBGAAUEf51cYxxMfuLsf-hm5gfHtFOX/s1600/V8857.jpg" height="200" width="189" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vogue 8857</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxITkVfFI3kDneCOou7P4WS0AJFAd0CXZKNLz3r2hl7bqCkgdz-kP2stolYKuhIX4ONFPUrH3yjB69RD1NldM8AEZMvv9zZfPr1-dShBBd5QOvdTike_lZJzSU6yeaU75msce2miKwUM5s/s1600/V8792.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxITkVfFI3kDneCOou7P4WS0AJFAd0CXZKNLz3r2hl7bqCkgdz-kP2stolYKuhIX4ONFPUrH3yjB69RD1NldM8AEZMvv9zZfPr1-dShBBd5QOvdTike_lZJzSU6yeaU75msce2miKwUM5s/s1600/V8792.jpg" height="200" width="189" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vogue 8792</td></tr>
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I've always loved the design details included in Burda Style Magazine patterns. I sew plus size patterns and Burda Style often had designs and design details that were not available on McVoguerick's plus size patterns. But sometimes, I want something simple like a plain short sleeved blouse. I found Vogue 8857 to fill that need. I wanted a t-shirt, but not your every day t-shirt. Vouge 8792 was perfect. Burda has so many more options when it comes to dresses. However, I was inspired by a dress chosen by Carolyn at Diary of a Sewing Fanatic . (Who <i>hasn't</i> been inspired by Carolyn?) I wonder how many perfectly good patterns I never saw because I was obsessed with beating Burda Style into submission?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVt94pYmmEWVaskz9AWjXTUVdzX9NV8AVs8kB4M1X65G5L4SyDxTJuOTciFzz93cm6NqNZRgyS0qdWlggqUv-7tglKfDnoltpypvpwYowy9WzdXIFsHtIDds7JU50zG4UHwHEkSldPTTFn/s1600/V8995.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVt94pYmmEWVaskz9AWjXTUVdzX9NV8AVs8kB4M1X65G5L4SyDxTJuOTciFzz93cm6NqNZRgyS0qdWlggqUv-7tglKfDnoltpypvpwYowy9WzdXIFsHtIDds7JU50zG4UHwHEkSldPTTFn/s1600/V8995.jpg" height="200" width="189" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">V8995</td></tr>
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<br />
There is a downside to my re-acceptance of McVoguerick patterns. Now, there is the chance that I will begin buying patterns that I never get around to sewing. I might begin stalking Jo-Ann's pattern sales. I was just beginning to have a pattern stash when I launched my attack on Burda. As a matter of fact, avoiding a huge pattern stash was one of the reasons I went "All Burda". I still love Burda Style Magazine patterns, first and foremost. Now that I've conquered them, I feel free to use a wider variety of patterns. Maybe the next world I try to conquer will be Marfy Patterns!<br />
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Elarayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06487492651398001387noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1288846139221731381.post-92120678481214679952014-05-26T07:00:00.002-04:002014-05-26T07:00:32.897-04:00Wedding AddendumWhen I posted about DDs wedding dress, I didn't have a picture to show the bustling. I now have a picture to show that feature.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNb_H0a7qiVEaSoZort2_fCSvFHng-PLTkSZ2oS3zOTrVl5yo4Zh6sPHBO5eSqU8-zjiqIbTrVAD2XP5ktSO72LU4RdEdEWe-7KQH5Cpxb-J-IAPruz1nSM42Feb-Rum6jg3cOrxs7Dm-G/s1600/381.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNb_H0a7qiVEaSoZort2_fCSvFHng-PLTkSZ2oS3zOTrVl5yo4Zh6sPHBO5eSqU8-zjiqIbTrVAD2XP5ktSO72LU4RdEdEWe-7KQH5Cpxb-J-IAPruz1nSM42Feb-Rum6jg3cOrxs7Dm-G/s1600/381.jpg" height="400" width="262" /></a></div>
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That's it – no more wedding stuff! I promise!</div>
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<br />Elarayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06487492651398001387noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1288846139221731381.post-80621819857922408542014-05-23T08:30:00.000-04:002014-05-23T08:30:00.648-04:00Finished: BSM 05-10-138<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx5M1CPHWp-uRPCbyqBWcj96FLVEWT7rkAvbk5jwoyfhEv08gxyYHnBbAFYXmJq-MWGSc-7bfprh9l7eT3R9rKstL-YuzHudXMcvsAeNMZJREhyekXsixmx4NyCXHckUv-s5B-M10UJNQP/s1600/Slide1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx5M1CPHWp-uRPCbyqBWcj96FLVEWT7rkAvbk5jwoyfhEv08gxyYHnBbAFYXmJq-MWGSc-7bfprh9l7eT3R9rKstL-YuzHudXMcvsAeNMZJREhyekXsixmx4NyCXHckUv-s5B-M10UJNQP/s1600/Slide1.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a>I had to sew this dress in small doses. I fell out of love with the dots and the fabric was silky and hard to control. The dress was not as much fun as it could have been.<br />
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<b>Pattern Description</b><br />
Dress with high waist, bust pleats and sleeve pleats.<br />
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<b>Pattern Sizing</b><br />
European plus range: 44 - 52<br />
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<b>Fabric Used</b><br />
Silky polyester. The fabric was a little unruly during cut-out. I had to cut the front bodice lining twice because the fabric moved so it was impossible to line up the dart legs.<br />
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<b>Pattern Alterations or Design Changes</b><br />
I've learned it's best to raise the necklines in most Burda Style patterns. I raised the neckline one inch.<br />
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<b>Construction</b><br />
The bodice front is underlined. I used self-fabric as the underlining. Because the fabric was so slippery, I used a walking foot to keep the fabric together and prevent the top layer from "growing". My walking foot is my most underused and under appreciated foot. There have been times when I should have used it, but I didn't consider or even remember it.<br />
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To install the zipper, I used a technique found in 10-20-30 Minutes to Sew (Nancy Zieman, 1992) The technique in the book uses a conventional zipper, but it works just as well with an invisible zipper. Using this method, the facing is sewn to the zipper tape by machine rather than by hand. It's a good looking finish.<br />
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The sleeve is finished with a bias band. Since the fabric was so slippery, I basted rather than pinned the band in place. The result was a neatly sewn narrow band.<br />
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The bust pleats are a little funky. They provide ease in the bust area that I don't need. I looked at another review for this dress on Pattern Review. One of us had our pleats going in the wrong direction. I won't say which one of us had the pleats going in the wrong direction, but I will say the other sewer didn't appear to have the same bust funkiness I had.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4YnjCOON1Q6E3an8LYIM2YDTAwuqyNWg1EWuzW9k__3Jgc90GPlsEgdhzxehzaXO8Mc72ivmBRR0pirXvAXlpmmg3h_1UoCxr_zeOJk1AwDEKuBClMnXlx1uaNx4TkZqHDRB_Fw035xGi/s1600/bust+pleats.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4YnjCOON1Q6E3an8LYIM2YDTAwuqyNWg1EWuzW9k__3Jgc90GPlsEgdhzxehzaXO8Mc72ivmBRR0pirXvAXlpmmg3h_1UoCxr_zeOJk1AwDEKuBClMnXlx1uaNx4TkZqHDRB_Fw035xGi/s1600/bust+pleats.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Dare I say it? Making a muslin would have shown this to me. But I wouldn't have known how to adjust it anyway, so why bother? (Bad attitude. I know.)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkuBSvDWb2jvzU7yNNOC4RAOiQulRDOqlUPnukZsMxas3pSdZny02f6m1vRd3keNdaXirno4_tH_n6hDH9h5saAQxCQHEzF6dFdlS69-JU_y1S32Ie7kW4ashOppUjZSXadN3mYXHavEXe/s1600/dress.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkuBSvDWb2jvzU7yNNOC4RAOiQulRDOqlUPnukZsMxas3pSdZny02f6m1vRd3keNdaXirno4_tH_n6hDH9h5saAQxCQHEzF6dFdlS69-JU_y1S32Ie7kW4ashOppUjZSXadN3mYXHavEXe/s1600/dress.jpg" height="640" width="419" /></a><b>Conclusion</b><br />
This dress is not one of my favorites. I like the silhouette, but once again, I could have made a different fabric choice. The weight of the fabric is appropriate for the pattern. It's light weight for summer, but the color says fall.<br />
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<br />Elarayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06487492651398001387noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1288846139221731381.post-9524252959335101032014-05-14T12:38:00.000-04:002014-05-14T12:38:02.742-04:00Finished: BSM 07-2012-135<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWc4UaIkuBNTmtI811na6NJCJ0zWh40HuWl8XhNJUNKqrAKZziLFfAhO_3qX405o8-kHWSZ5-04W4U0g9ughsGTwdzRx1ShtUPXiYofFyc8Glo-CFv_QJbfhK9zyiJd5okJv9V1E48DWxV/s1600/Slide2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWc4UaIkuBNTmtI811na6NJCJ0zWh40HuWl8XhNJUNKqrAKZziLFfAhO_3qX405o8-kHWSZ5-04W4U0g9ughsGTwdzRx1ShtUPXiYofFyc8Glo-CFv_QJbfhK9zyiJd5okJv9V1E48DWxV/s1600/Slide2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
Should I let an interesting design detail make me lose my good sense? I think I look best in full skirts, but can a novel feature, like exposed darts, inspire me to change my mind? You bet it can! I normally wouldn't wear a dress with an obvious waist either. But, if exposed darts can make me forgo a full skirt, they can make me wear a dress with an obvious waist.<br />
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<b>Pattern</b> <b>Description</b>: Short sleeved dress with
exposed darts.</div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Pattern Sizing:</b><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>European plus range – 44 - 52</div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">What did you
particularly like or dislike about the pattern?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span></b>I loved the exposed darts<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Fabric Used:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></b>Linen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I love sewing linen even though it wrinkles like crazy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> But</span> what fabric makes a better summer
dress than linen? <br />
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<b>Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:</b><b> </b>I raised the neckline. Sometimes I think the designers at Burda have a fixation on cleavages. (<span style="font-size: x-small;">Do they bottle feed or breast feed in Germany?</span>) The original design had exposed darts at the hemline. I omitted these darts because I didn’t want a tapered skirt. I wanted as much fullness in the skirt as I could possibly get.<br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Construction</b>:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I ordered two rolls of Swedish Tracing Paper and they arrived just as I was tracing this pattern. Since I had to alter the plunging neckline, I decided to try the STP. Using the STP, I was able to sew the darts in the bodice and draft the new neckline and facing while the darts were sewn. I don’t think it would have been as easy if I’d traced the bodice on the artist’s tracing paper I normally use.<br />
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The exposed darts are the main design feature of this
dress. In addition to the exposed darts
on the front and back, the sleeves have darts rather than easing. The darts are made exactly like any other
dart. The only difference is they are
sewn with wrong sides together. The
dress was very easy to sew together.
Thanks to Burda’s excellent drafting, the bodice and skirt fit together
perfectly.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-G9fQOMRqnZgMt7NmIf3Huddi5G2SUWukFPpYhzX90-rsnn41nYi4K8xuGwcbEF1u4uG2Rha6SGi-oy2Ol3Bx9CYC13434L2Zo2i4cC_0dCcQmM7AqBLxbVP4Lvm7U3DcSEvdXF5oNnDR/s1600/Slide2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-G9fQOMRqnZgMt7NmIf3Huddi5G2SUWukFPpYhzX90-rsnn41nYi4K8xuGwcbEF1u4uG2Rha6SGi-oy2Ol3Bx9CYC13434L2Zo2i4cC_0dCcQmM7AqBLxbVP4Lvm7U3DcSEvdXF5oNnDR/s1600/Slide2.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a>The sleeves edges are finished with a facing rather than a hem. I'm sure there is a reason for this, but I don't know what that reason might be. Perhaps the length of the sleeve makes a facing a better option than turning up a hem allowance. I think it looks classy.</div>
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<b>Conclusion</b>: </div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<o:p></o:p>I am really enjoying making dresses. One of the reasons I like Burda Style Magazine
patterns is the variety of dress styles offered. I had far too few dresses in my closet and I
glad to add this dress to my wardrobe.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEg7GAAU8fgqi3wwLcb7m6S6fJxl-jwnOExJZbMmr5XLC7mGWZYeJE5tap5MfvsRnBHt6hle0A0PIkREc66wl8GUqk9fzXhi4u41McHt4G3AX3tAW2v3p7WPVWC_cwZmJXZrLoT_iY5ALS/s1600/Slide3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEg7GAAU8fgqi3wwLcb7m6S6fJxl-jwnOExJZbMmr5XLC7mGWZYeJE5tap5MfvsRnBHt6hle0A0PIkREc66wl8GUqk9fzXhi4u41McHt4G3AX3tAW2v3p7WPVWC_cwZmJXZrLoT_iY5ALS/s1600/Slide3.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
Elarayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06487492651398001387noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1288846139221731381.post-75914412536570385062014-05-08T18:39:00.000-04:002014-05-08T22:06:22.351-04:00I'm So Glad I Can Sew!<div class="MsoNormal">
In high school and again in college, I took a photography
class as an elective.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Back then, I
believed I would pursue photography as a hobby. It would have meant having a dedicated
room in which to pursue the hobby and spending lots of money on supplies.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Sounds a lot like sewing, doesn’t it?)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In those days you needed chemicals to process photographs. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These
days, it’s easier to practice photography because you don't need darkrooms, enlargers, or dangerous chemicals. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Now
that I’m semi-retired, I’ve decided to rekindle my interest in
photography.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I bought myself a digital
SLR camera for Mother’s Day and enrolled in classes for digital photography and
Photoshop Elements.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The digital photography class is held in downtown Philadelphia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I hate driving in downtown traffic and paying exorbitant parking fees. And, I
wasn’t happy about carrying a conspicuous camera bag on public
transportation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I searched my tote bag stash and found reusable grocery bags
I sewed years ago. This grocery bag was
the perfect size for carrying the camera bag and a notebook to class. There was one problem: the fabric I used made it look like a grocery bag. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So why does all of this make me so glad I can sew?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> I had a very specific need and I was able to
fill it by sewing. I bought some really fun home dec fabric from JoAnn and sewed another, more suitable bag. If I hadn’t sewn this
bag, I probably would have bought an expensive Vera Bradley tote bag. (Vera Bradley has become my go-to source for
tote bags). Sewing this bag was so much
more fun and economical. I’d seen the bird fabric in
JoAnn and I often wished I had a project in which to use it. </div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-pYGXNNGEEWouyQN6pssr8uVRx_GtFjswVNmXjN2ye_euNnJElKutb8c_rnxo3kjAVz-rIbEymE4MAMO6UmYwgrFvO2oMgkhEk7Tm3q2cFjLQ6-bfbojbNWNjt-9arwUN8GL4FrPuVkNW/s1600/IMG_0097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-pYGXNNGEEWouyQN6pssr8uVRx_GtFjswVNmXjN2ye_euNnJElKutb8c_rnxo3kjAVz-rIbEymE4MAMO6UmYwgrFvO2oMgkhEk7Tm3q2cFjLQ6-bfbojbNWNjt-9arwUN8GL4FrPuVkNW/s1600/IMG_0097.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camera bag tucked neatly inside </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This bag has features I really like and make it a
perfect “camera bag”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Plastic mesh canvas is inserted into a sleeve
and placed in the bottom of the bag.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3d9u6Ab4p6-j3ATDh2gPHpN15gE_lIQO2nU8TAAyGXbbSQKB0rpafuw_W_PLo5hxZopPBJOa1OzjbRLYsH8GGiZZ433fKvc3B9ZoKjqUs8J6C7vmKM-9vHmoEeJwhU9P-dPn9FcNbwvRS/s1600/IMG_0095.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3d9u6Ab4p6-j3ATDh2gPHpN15gE_lIQO2nU8TAAyGXbbSQKB0rpafuw_W_PLo5hxZopPBJOa1OzjbRLYsH8GGiZZ433fKvc3B9ZoKjqUs8J6C7vmKM-9vHmoEeJwhU9P-dPn9FcNbwvRS/s1600/IMG_0095.JPG" height="133" width="200" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
This provides more support for the camera (or groceries) than just the fabric.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> Also, </span>The corners and bottom of the bag are sewn to
give the bag definition.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVXPjjhXeo_rdDQniiC4YBKua28l6ATulWj79hklGP9JTLGj2uECq8QJBRMxT-LBnCAOGtPVjSEMBJnFAQmtwXuvJ0MidOdFKwwSFkZDrz1lDxBk4TmAAtQ92NIRjOt5_IFpT8yzIleiwm/s1600/IMG_0097a.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVXPjjhXeo_rdDQniiC4YBKua28l6ATulWj79hklGP9JTLGj2uECq8QJBRMxT-LBnCAOGtPVjSEMBJnFAQmtwXuvJ0MidOdFKwwSFkZDrz1lDxBk4TmAAtQ92NIRjOt5_IFpT8yzIleiwm/s1600/IMG_0097a.JPG" height="200" width="93" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
During construction, I used a technique I first saw
demonstrated by Louise Cutting. She
recommends pressing a seam open whenever seam allowances have to be pressed
back on themselves. This prevents the
seam from rolling to one side or the other. This technique was perfect for attaching the facing to the top of the bag.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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I was so excited about making this camera bag, I decided to
make two of them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>JoAnn’s Waverly Home
Dec fabrics were on sale and I had a 50% off coupon for the second fabric.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCQmnfa5cfk_h_wKmURHxt_iRnPxKdtcW3wHnU_W7pgvfTJ7Z6n_hnXw9_QlyVngBraF05glMLCCV8lhKtuNK8nZPieCcJGFuwXgZNZ8bDnjgv-36vhUD52Q1ci7JwlmpJdQc8d-yV_4ba/s1600/IMG_0098.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCQmnfa5cfk_h_wKmURHxt_iRnPxKdtcW3wHnU_W7pgvfTJ7Z6n_hnXw9_QlyVngBraF05glMLCCV8lhKtuNK8nZPieCcJGFuwXgZNZ8bDnjgv-36vhUD52Q1ci7JwlmpJdQc8d-yV_4ba/s1600/IMG_0098.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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When I make the second bag, I may put velcro in the top to keep it closed.</div>
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The directions for sewing this bag are here:<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><a href="http://hkfstores.com/content/freeprojects/ReusableGroceryBag.pdf">http://hkfstores.com/content/freeprojects/ReusableGroceryBag.pdf</a><o:p></o:p></div>
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Elarayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06487492651398001387noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1288846139221731381.post-17575167826561833522014-04-28T12:08:00.000-04:002014-04-28T14:57:42.297-04:00Here Comes the Gown<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwkFjaHrgngi4gLjakDOBbipXKh_eoe1I1ipxKCSypmvOPGLjDo5cLMt7IaCR1jLyltVJWeZB4xOoOaVguuLFzJaWzoDIjg3Rmb4N9kmniiEnNQDz8fD-yK-KrsTSjTvkOQjion19WtCwH/s1600/SAM_3473.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwkFjaHrgngi4gLjakDOBbipXKh_eoe1I1ipxKCSypmvOPGLjDo5cLMt7IaCR1jLyltVJWeZB4xOoOaVguuLFzJaWzoDIjg3Rmb4N9kmniiEnNQDz8fD-yK-KrsTSjTvkOQjion19WtCwH/s1600/SAM_3473.JPG" height="640" width="316" /></a></div>
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I must say, the dress was a big hit. People were so impressed, it was embarrassing. I think people were impressed because so few people sew these days. Non-sewers probably don't understand how or why anyone would make a wedding dress. Lindsey gave credit to me as the "Wedding Dress Seamtress" in the program so I got lots of "You <i>really</i> made Lindsey's dress?!?!?" The design was really simple – a sleeveless, empire waist, A-line dress with a lace bolero. (<a href="http://www.neuemode.com/sub_item.php?item_num=22711neu&model=%&new_category=search&view=gallery&brand=&category=search&pageGoto=0&pageFormat=3|186|186&pageCount=18&search=Bridal&return=yes" target="_blank">Neue Mode 22711</a>) I used satin for the gown and it was very easy to sew. The lining was silk and was so light you could probably squeeze it into a ball the size of your fist. That lightness made it a little difficult to cut out. I forgot the tip about cutting lightweight fabrics with paper. I underlined the gown with silk organza to add substance. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivrn2mER6MPuOtxsEBy0QznGer17TLVxwhE1V6YCNp8r-nmtrUEc1y9NbnH-W-0j7YKTmGgmuBOjX-IQnzCz89pszejjwUyeIdXbL79MWkDeSRVlJZbbbGweOK789bUNN7a3XY0BAnEkNk/s1600/SAM_3491.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivrn2mER6MPuOtxsEBy0QznGer17TLVxwhE1V6YCNp8r-nmtrUEc1y9NbnH-W-0j7YKTmGgmuBOjX-IQnzCz89pszejjwUyeIdXbL79MWkDeSRVlJZbbbGweOK789bUNN7a3XY0BAnEkNk/s1600/SAM_3491.JPG" height="320" width="259" /></a></div>
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The dress had a train. The bustling on which Linds and I disagreed (she would have settled for safety pins!) came out nicely. I don't have a good picture of the back of the gown when it was bustled, but here's the back of the jacket:</div>
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See? As I've said in previous posts - very simple. The beauty was in the embellished lace.</div>
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For those readers who've said they don't like non-sewing content in sewing blogs:<br />
<b>Stop reading now</b>!<br />
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•§•§•§•§•§•§•§•§•§•§•§•§•</div>
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I ended up not wearing the dress I made for myself. I sewed a Mother of the Bride dress, but it looked too dark and somber for a wedding in which I was the happy MOB, so I bought a dress instead. A happy coincidence, which I didn't notice until my nephew's wife pointed it out, was that Linds and I both had scalloped lace on our jackets.</div>
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I didn't make the veil. It was the veil her mother-in-law wore when she was married. I thought that was a perfect sentimental touch. </div>
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And seeing the dress in action made it even more beautiful in my humble MOB opinion.</div>
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And here is the reason for all the stress, deadlines, train trip to New York for shopping, time spent ripping out beads and sequins, 11 yards of expensive but unused lace, travel between Richmond and Philadelphia and happy tears:</div>
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I wish I had a picture of Lindsey and Martin as they were presented, but my camera died just as my sister began her solo! I was too caught up at that moment and I would have forgotten to take a picture anyway.</div>
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It was a Wonderful Wedding Weekend. It was fantastic seeing old friends, new friends, old family and new family. Everything went smoothly, I cried only at the appropriate moments. And most importantly, I have a brand new son-in-law.<br />
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Edited to add:<br />
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I found this picture on my phone. I don't even remember taking it, but apparently I did!<br />
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Elarayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06487492651398001387noreply@blogger.com21tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1288846139221731381.post-24312308819516470462014-04-17T17:43:00.000-04:002014-04-18T13:19:24.041-04:00Finished: Easter Dress 2014<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_S2THeuN4PszAyJ8DI1wLyUCkrmvFh_uLziBiULPkIlA594jkHvwLfTNWBLuQfOfDfa14gCUMxUinu68Q9K7z00NoQQMQEFOs855I6-kvxd-Fdj4XtHN71lX2jpHY9Y0irXRV7InZ-opJ/s1600/423+tech.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_S2THeuN4PszAyJ8DI1wLyUCkrmvFh_uLziBiULPkIlA594jkHvwLfTNWBLuQfOfDfa14gCUMxUinu68Q9K7z00NoQQMQEFOs855I6-kvxd-Fdj4XtHN71lX2jpHY9Y0irXRV7InZ-opJ/s1600/423+tech.jpg" height="219" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Burda Plus Fashion Spring/Summer 2013 #423</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I enjoyed making a new Easter Dress last year so I tried it again this year. The tradition of a new Easter dress takes me back to my childhood. Now that I'm 60, I <i>need</i> to go back to my childhood whenever I get the chance. I used Burda Plus Fashion Spring/Summer 2013 #423 for this year's Easter Dress.<br />
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Pattern Description: <o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Long sleeved shirtwaist variation with hidden front pockets
and faux front placket.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Pattern Sizing:</b><br />
Burda plus size range 44 -52</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">What did you particularly
like or dislike about the pattern?<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I like this dress because it is was a shirtwaist variation.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Fabric Used:<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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I used medium weight crepe-like polyester.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I might have had better results with a
lighter weight fabric.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Construction</b>:<o:p></o:p></div>
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This dress has a unique significance. I used thread tracing and tailor's tacks exclusively – no tracing paper and tracing wheel – to mark the pieces. I was tired of the poor performance of tracing paper. The marks were either too faint or they did not wash out. Thread tracing and tailor's tacks took a little more time, but it wasn't as time-consuming as I thought it would be.<br />
<br />
Whenever Burda patterns include an inset corner, the sewer
is instructed to sew it in two steps rather than pivot at the corner.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I usually get pretty sharp corners this way,
but I’m sure there is an easier way to do it.<o:p></o:p></div>
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I like self-fabric belts because a contrasting belt will call
attention to the fact that I have no waist.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Apparently, no one makes belts out of self-fabric anymore.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had a devil of a time finding a belt
buckle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I found the stiff belting interfacing,
but most traditional buckles were larger than the 1 ¼” belting. But, I
“made it work” in a way that would have made Tim Gunn proud. There is no elastic or overlap in the belt so it needed a little tweaking in order to fit. I don't think I'll be using that method again if I ever need another belt.</div>
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The instructions didn’t mention belt loops.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I need belt loops to keep the belt in the
position where my waist would be if I had one.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I crocheted belt loops rather than make them from fabric.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I did this because I forgot to sew them on
until the dress was finished and I believed crocheted loops were easier to retrofit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I crocheted a chain leaving long ends at the
beginning and end of the chain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
threaded the ends through a needle and inserted both ends into the waist
seam.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Finally, I tied the ends together
on the inside and used Fray Check on the knot.<o:p></o:p></div>
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This dress has front pockets hidden in the folds of the
pleats.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The pockets are positioned on
the right side of the skirt and sewn in like a welt pocket without the welts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Conclusion:</b><br />
I'm still in the midst of my "I-don't-have-enough-dresses" phase. I like the styling of the dress and I'm glad it went together easily. I'm inspired to move on to the next dress in my queue.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Elarayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06487492651398001387noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1288846139221731381.post-86263408243669908902014-04-06T13:28:00.004-04:002014-04-06T16:25:50.141-04:00Wedding Dress Adventure: The Final Chapter<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0B7mHg2HduDDrsvUFFrIZPA1wMkseuDlLqR74J0urvv7oTSvoipZxLn29deKZKr9ZL1Xiq_Y4-aeFN6Hf67O-b3yncw3YMx5V8QAPKlAjGO8Zc2Pdt36lgVV0uE2_d_zWncU3U0i7xOG6/s1600/Cinderella-Dressmaking-Scene.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0B7mHg2HduDDrsvUFFrIZPA1wMkseuDlLqR74J0urvv7oTSvoipZxLn29deKZKr9ZL1Xiq_Y4-aeFN6Hf67O-b3yncw3YMx5V8QAPKlAjGO8Zc2Pdt36lgVV0uE2_d_zWncU3U0i7xOG6/s1600/Cinderella-Dressmaking-Scene.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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Whew! It's finished with not a moment to spare. The wedding is in three weeks. My daughter came home for the final fitting and is taking her wedding gown to her home in Virginia for the final cleaning and pressing. (I won't show the completed dress before the wedding but I will show plenty of wedding pictures after the fact.)</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim4fxy5nUjsn3qwsiEC7wsHSuGYSt1g8Oe26TggvisvNcEQQ1K-ztNgMxMTSF9-laYYGxSddCjq58nkpmQrfSxXLE2oPdUg4Ns-O90-ziDbAEcsZ5H63_WzBN-q7DMa5jC3t-u52aa140K/s1600/SAM_3368.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim4fxy5nUjsn3qwsiEC7wsHSuGYSt1g8Oe26TggvisvNcEQQ1K-ztNgMxMTSF9-laYYGxSddCjq58nkpmQrfSxXLE2oPdUg4Ns-O90-ziDbAEcsZ5H63_WzBN-q7DMa5jC3t-u52aa140K/s1600/SAM_3368.JPG" height="200" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The finished gown</td></tr>
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My daughter chose a very plain design – we're talking Amish plain – but that turned out to be a good thing. It made for very easy sewing. But there were still challenges. First, we had to change the original plan of making a simple dress with a lace overdress to add the drama. The lace overdress stretched and grew like a bias fabric and was impossible to fit. I now have yards of expensive lace and I don't know what to do with it. (I know! Save it for a christening gown!)</div>
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So, the design changed from a lace overdress to a lace jacket. The jacket was a component of the original pattern anyway. I bought more lace and made the jacket. The lace was embellished with sequins and beads that had to be removed from the seam allowances before sewing and sewn back in when construction was finished. Beads that were loosened had to be re-sewn. Not fun.</div>
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The final challenge was bustling the gown. To quote the panic-stricken Prissy from Gone With the Wind, "I don't know nothin' 'bout bustlin' no wedding gown!" I pinned up the train as if I were going to over-bustle. But in my mind, I'd planned to sew ribbons inside (blue for the "something blue") as if I were going to under- bustle. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIDCp1f7g0koU933fFKoi0AVLNHMsnkV_J6baMpo8HJnkYnwLCLUSDg21-3KRB3wbxQnvCSXT2N3qHFcedwOStgX-OD3xYSkos8pARtuFZoifGlLmg2tmVGfETlF8WYBFA44r0LCskjjOr/s1600/underbustle.jpg" height="200" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="150" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Under bustle</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjasEtKOP_EhH4lgRFSFkel53QdyWJEVJmwoUcXgd-xX-vTC-vG20ppjN86eOWhG2LlQYK_-lh3HNOIKMGlnbwLKJRuwoK1TOglHWMzh-C0cEb_-D2geeZpDhZNhV9FGaAebeMcgX_dHKDx/s1600/over+Bustle3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjasEtKOP_EhH4lgRFSFkel53QdyWJEVJmwoUcXgd-xX-vTC-vG20ppjN86eOWhG2LlQYK_-lh3HNOIKMGlnbwLKJRuwoK1TOglHWMzh-C0cEb_-D2geeZpDhZNhV9FGaAebeMcgX_dHKDx/s1600/over+Bustle3.jpg" height="200" width="132" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Over bustle</td></tr>
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Lindsey preferred the look of over bustling. She was concerned that the extra bulk under the dress would trip her up during the bride-groom first dance. My concern was keeping the bustling invisible. Since the skirt of the gown is so plain, making the bustling invisible was difficult. My daughter's suggestion was to use safety pins disguised with ribbon. Her reasoning was, "If someone is petty enough to notice and criticize ribbon wrapped safety pins, too bad!" Well, <i>I am petty enough </i>and I couldn't accept her "too bad" attitude. I strenuously objected to safety pins. We found a compromise.We ended up over bustling, much like the picture above. I sewed bridal buttons and loops to the outside of the train. It wasn't invisible, but neither was it obvious. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwi1ftlpUH-7gkB4Mo9iIjz_dyJ8FRTvpSXnAtNgpmD2XkgJmXAp-9JJHDo3MVziPbs1S7T665ZvlI2Mhg_VzNyi4Qq387-CNjDGqxh_dUXatnhveR10vx68Ohs1deZihb93l7n3X_Cf7Z/s1600/SAM_3364.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwi1ftlpUH-7gkB4Mo9iIjz_dyJ8FRTvpSXnAtNgpmD2XkgJmXAp-9JJHDo3MVziPbs1S7T665ZvlI2Mhg_VzNyi4Qq387-CNjDGqxh_dUXatnhveR10vx68Ohs1deZihb93l7n3X_Cf7Z/s1600/SAM_3364.JPG" height="200" width="200" /></a></div>
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I cut the loop yardage into individual loops and sewed them, along with covered bridal buttons, onto the train. The buttons and loops are not invisible, but the purpose should be evident if one notices the buttons and loops on the train as she walks down the aisle.</div>
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So, the wedding gown is finished and what have I learned? </div>
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<ul>
<li>Plans often change. The gown looks nothing like our original vision. The adage is true: MOBs plan - God laughs.</li>
<li>Embrace the flexibility needed to deal with the inevitable changes that will occur. We abandoned the original vision and went the with pattern as designed. That was probably best.</li>
<li>Keep your sense of humor. Lindsey started humming "Don't Worry, Be Happy" on one occasion when the tension got thick. We both started laughing. She promised to do that whenever I got too worried.</li>
<li>At the end of the day, my daughter will be <b>married</b>. Lace jacket or overdress, safety pins, ribbons or buttons -- these things are not important in the grand scheme.</li>
<li>Although the process was fraught with my self-imposed worry and pressure, it was labor of love. I was more than happy to do it.</li>
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Elarayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06487492651398001387noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1288846139221731381.post-86764732023188389872014-03-22T10:46:00.000-04:002014-03-22T19:59:24.642-04:00Adding Seam Allowances The Easy WayI am a Burdaphile. It is my goal to encourage every sewer to appreciate and use patterns from Burda Style (and other pattern magazines). The biggest obstacle seems to be the tracing. I admit, the tracing is sometimes a headache. The pattern sheets can be downright scary. I can't do anything about that. But I can make it easier to add seam allowances.<br />
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It's easy to add seam allowances using a simple compass … the kind you used in high school geometry class.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNEA1xKPI9iO0pZdnvuxgyaMPnA9w-QO4iBIY5M11edtw6g5xJr3ITB8ce75KYda-IxC6vxot96P_oG8wPFVToYzA56am-K-nP83Wx5DzAoAzRLAyWP27fmRIlWH5C2nwgC_hRw2sa93bt/s1600/SAM_3312.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNEA1xKPI9iO0pZdnvuxgyaMPnA9w-QO4iBIY5M11edtw6g5xJr3ITB8ce75KYda-IxC6vxot96P_oG8wPFVToYzA56am-K-nP83Wx5DzAoAzRLAyWP27fmRIlWH5C2nwgC_hRw2sa93bt/s1600/SAM_3312.JPG" height="200" width="200" /></a></div>
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An inexpensive compass with a plastic point is best because the point is not sharp enough to tear through the paper during the tracing process.</div>
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Watch me add a seam allowance the easy way:</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/ioJiIzsuVOk?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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Don't be afraid of BurdaStyle and other magazine patterns!</div>
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<br />Elarayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06487492651398001387noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1288846139221731381.post-77361599135825404362014-01-29T08:29:00.000-05:002014-01-29T08:29:42.321-05:00Finished: BSM 08-13-138Some time ago, I realized I didn't have enough dresses. So I initiated the <a href="http://anothercreation.blogspot.com/2013/10/the-great-american-dress-project.html" target="_blank">Great American Dress Project</a>. This dress, #138 from the August 2013 issue of Burda Style Magazine, is the first dress in that project. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdrbeUrRAiQlBN5pR2nHJnvbJR1uC4a7__fWce1Oalwd2BOxi26syVjA6h3rrRR9dY5gOcVbXjmZVBWtTPBVpcwQ0ZSYFOd5vJA0W1GaFq7a_DV0MQyCiR19oZKqHiQG-ybBdBYi1TIkDj/s1600/138+tech.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdrbeUrRAiQlBN5pR2nHJnvbJR1uC4a7__fWce1Oalwd2BOxi26syVjA6h3rrRR9dY5gOcVbXjmZVBWtTPBVpcwQ0ZSYFOd5vJA0W1GaFq7a_DV0MQyCiR19oZKqHiQG-ybBdBYi1TIkDj/s1600/138+tech.jpg" height="225" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Burda Style Magazine 08-13-138</td></tr>
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<b>Pattern Description: </b> This design is a basically a variation on a shirt waist dress. It includes a self-fabric belt and a scarf.</div>
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<b>Pattern Sizing: </b>This dress is from Burda Style's plus size range; european 44 to 52</div>
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<b>Construction Notes: </b>The most difficult part of sewing this dress was finding a fabric covered belt kit in a brick and mortar store. I usually go to JoAnn for notions like that, but my local JoAnn did not have fabric covered belt kits. Luckily, I was able to go to Philadelphia's little garment district, Fabric Row. I didn't have heavy interfacing for the belt, so I used two layers of the heaviest woven interfacing I had. The result was more than adequate.<br />
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The pattern called for lace trim along the edge of the collar. I had a specific type and color lace in mind. Since I couldn't find exactly what I wanted, I omitted the lace.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">belt loops sewn into seam</td></tr>
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Although this dress has a belt, belt loops were not mentioned in the instructions. I made loops out of narrow bias tubes and sewed them into the waist seam. The belt would creep up to an unflattering position without loops.<br />
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The sleeves look like your average set in sleeves, but they are not. They are inserted like a raglan sleeve. You can't see it on the technical drawing, but there is a seam from the shoulder to the slit that allows the sleeve to be inserted like a raglan.</div>
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<b>What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? </b>I wasn't sure how the final project would look but let me say, I really like this dress! There really isn't anything I dislike about this pattern.</div>
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<b>Fabric Used:</b> 100% polyester. I had to remember that pressing 100% polyester presents a challenge. I needed to use a clapper for every press. I enjoy sewing natural fibers because they are so easy to press, but as long as I used the clapper and plenty of steam, pressing really wasn't that big a deal.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmM8WGjQT7p1OObAr_ArD9DheeQa4c25itq4ZXJ9rHAKg5h14CA62C3uFoNtqHJFyxmWO6d_otrXyvfZ70TwCfMkTbLr-VPUhI1F7QaW-q2R72NiIL004s_9VAdi0hBxkPgNhVQ-ndDD9W/s1600/SAM_1053.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmM8WGjQT7p1OObAr_ArD9DheeQa4c25itq4ZXJ9rHAKg5h14CA62C3uFoNtqHJFyxmWO6d_otrXyvfZ70TwCfMkTbLr-VPUhI1F7QaW-q2R72NiIL004s_9VAdi0hBxkPgNhVQ-ndDD9W/s1600/SAM_1053.JPG" height="400" width="287" /></a></div>
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<b>Conclusion</b>: I really like this dress! I want to make it again, maybe in a solid color. I hope the rest of my Great American Dress Project goes as well.</div>
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Elarayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06487492651398001387noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1288846139221731381.post-59816426422349711792014-01-14T08:00:00.000-05:002014-01-14T08:00:09.282-05:00Organizational Tip: Storing PatternsI was inspired by Miss Celie's <a href="http://missceliespants.com/2014/01/02/ideas-on-pattern-organization-needed/" target="_blank">call for pattern organization ideas</a>. My pattern box was looking pretty sloppy and it was time for a pattern purge.<br />
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For many years, I loved and used Nancy's Notions Pattern Keepers to store patterns. Pattern Keepers had a front pocket for the pattern envelope and instructions and a ziploc compartment for the pattern pieces. Unfortunately, Pattern Keepers are no longer available. I found a source for <a href="http://www.uline.com/BL_235/Front-Pouch-Reclosable-Poly-Bags" target="_blank">similar ziploc bags</a>, but they had to be purchased in cases of 1000. I googled and learned many sewers use comic book protectors to store patterns. These plastic bags come in three or four sizes. For me, the silver size (7 1/8" by 10 1/2") works best. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV9dBV-AB0XL0MH3oGEuMWactWl2mC4mNF1KIF5LzdqDkVP84cu5VP1dK4Lhij0dFOjuGPuzoFUw91ySfhjGZXEqLC3lkMgfMGlubmtHxU_0aAb_4uBlYE5ZRg0f2Q7WyTR9qPKz85YAGS/s1600/SAM_1038.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV9dBV-AB0XL0MH3oGEuMWactWl2mC4mNF1KIF5LzdqDkVP84cu5VP1dK4Lhij0dFOjuGPuzoFUw91ySfhjGZXEqLC3lkMgfMGlubmtHxU_0aAb_4uBlYE5ZRg0f2Q7WyTR9qPKz85YAGS/s1600/SAM_1038.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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They are nearly the same size as the Pattern Keepers I'm used to so I can keep my patterns in the drawer I'm currently using. They don't have the front pocket to separate the pattern envelope and instructions, but that wasn't a deal breaker for me. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKVHxgS6z_kcMbc31Mmd7TLpZi9GC9paA6ZXXlyxy3GTzs51R4lGut1Nz66uGPVaBuyGXlJpqzPLcRS6Pe0WKrR3ZE6-7qxe-DDSaulSHki7vBFvERIsaRDUMq266h4AjTbZkR0dapvJA7/s1600/SAM_1042.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKVHxgS6z_kcMbc31Mmd7TLpZi9GC9paA6ZXXlyxy3GTzs51R4lGut1Nz66uGPVaBuyGXlJpqzPLcRS6Pe0WKrR3ZE6-7qxe-DDSaulSHki7vBFvERIsaRDUMq266h4AjTbZkR0dapvJA7/s1600/SAM_1042.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Rather than a ziploc, these bags close with a flap. Self sealing protectors are available, but I use removable color-coding labels to keep the flaps closed. One of these days, maybe I'll come up with a way to use the color coding. Or, I'll buy the self sealing protectors the next time the urge to organize hits me. These bags are readily available at comic book stores. (Midtown Comics is in the midst of New York's Garment District! How convenient is that?) They are also available at Amazon. I bought three packs (100 bags per $5 pack) for $15 at a local comic book store. Very reasonable, although I don't think I'll ever have 300 patterns.</div>
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I kept my current pattern storage set up. A few years ago, I built a wooden box in which I store the patterns, arranged by category. I built the box to fit neatly on the bottom shelf of a bookcase. I will not allow myself to have more patterns than fit in the drawer, so my pattern stash is manageable.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCHHpn3KuhjXsXrDLWkjPkRIbGFMdZpLA1N2hX3L0hxvN80KxVo_gL1PZe9NjPuIj2bZzSeg_VK7Bln4VflgRlOZYhUCEFnwHzIOiXam78D42PUEew2ZV1AhnM2m06-Y9Ntcmq45llYhiC/s1600/SAM_1046.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCHHpn3KuhjXsXrDLWkjPkRIbGFMdZpLA1N2hX3L0hxvN80KxVo_gL1PZe9NjPuIj2bZzSeg_VK7Bln4VflgRlOZYhUCEFnwHzIOiXam78D42PUEew2ZV1AhnM2m06-Y9Ntcmq45llYhiC/s1600/SAM_1046.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The comic book store sold plastic tabbed dividers that I use to separate and identify the categories. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb6M5hpdRmHe32IBT_eB22QGeFy4Y3Fm6PKiqH-SXja9IjGn_gjNaje0HpaC3eipRvuHHNZrT9KURWcYnIpjCYDfFiNdoErXIjRmt0n6eKPDS3jFZ24ddeEmnFwv2MnG5_dXxeb8rNAN8C/s1600/SAM_1044.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb6M5hpdRmHe32IBT_eB22QGeFy4Y3Fm6PKiqH-SXja9IjGn_gjNaje0HpaC3eipRvuHHNZrT9KURWcYnIpjCYDfFiNdoErXIjRmt0n6eKPDS3jFZ24ddeEmnFwv2MnG5_dXxeb8rNAN8C/s1600/SAM_1044.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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It was a simple task to design and print the labels. I had to cut the dividers down to size to make them fit neatly in the box. </div>
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I photocopy the front and back of pattern envelopes and store them in a binder. My long term goal is to make catalog pages for my traced Burda Patterns. When that is done, I will have a complete catalog of traced magazine and envelope patterns. </div>
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So, once again, I got inspiration from a sewing blogger. Thanks to Miss Celie and my local comic book store, I was able to update my pattern storage system. </div>
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Elarayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06487492651398001387noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1288846139221731381.post-43135773440212146092014-01-02T08:00:00.000-05:002014-01-02T08:00:05.092-05:00Wedding Dress BluesMy plan was to focus on, possibly even finish Lindsey's wedding dress before sewing anything else. Of course, a problem has come up.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW_imJSeIHVGMp0aMC1Iw_4OOzkF7eZfQbbHjktAH_ggljiAapjBc5z8psvvvcVNsyTP9BzkcLtjfWU2Bb2jeKjz0Xuqc8xHxJjjZflKOaYX3Zj8dg6YwViJzXQaPnZ6hfp6W5GjpbAj6U/s1600/2012913_63334177.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW_imJSeIHVGMp0aMC1Iw_4OOzkF7eZfQbbHjktAH_ggljiAapjBc5z8psvvvcVNsyTP9BzkcLtjfWU2Bb2jeKjz0Xuqc8xHxJjjZflKOaYX3Zj8dg6YwViJzXQaPnZ6hfp6W5GjpbAj6U/s320/2012913_63334177.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not Lindsey's Dress</td></tr>
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I don't know if this is an actual characteristic of lace, but the lace overlay we planned grew about two sizes while hanging in the closet. Apparently, lace is not a stable fabric. I made a muslin using cheap JoAnn lace and the fit was good – only minor adjustments necessary. But after sewing the overlay in the expensive lace and hanging it in the closet for several weeks, it was suddenly huge. It acted like a bias cut or slinky knit fabric that grows on the hanger. I called <a href="http://nancyksews.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Nancy K</a> and we had a FaceTime consultation. She gave me a very clever way to fix the problem. But it would have meant picking and cutting at the lace and I just wasn't up for that. So DD agreed to go in another direction. Rather than a lace overlay, she'll have a lace jacket. The jacket is underlined and lined so the lace will be more stable. I was excited about this change because I envisioned a more embellished lace - something with a little sparkle and pizazz. Not Liberace sparkle, but certainly more sparkle than the original lace. My daughter, however, doesn't want a lot of sparkle or pizazz and she withdrew my <i>carte blanche </i>fabric selection<i> </i>privilege. Now she wants to approve my lace selection. :-( I've sewn two jacket muslins and she will be home in February for a fitting.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfx9E16tRvr4MQKBMuFik1cGdLImYnKuDz8SKdhgDOcZ8VGIZcQPDICPxf9jA3DfS_DTbaFZmEJ6uvnbkAQsJpiUDT915CRZ5oBl91-0sNgqNx6ifeOoLZsNmmJLzo5v5d-XkjCKSL4mrF/s1600/MOB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfx9E16tRvr4MQKBMuFik1cGdLImYnKuDz8SKdhgDOcZ8VGIZcQPDICPxf9jA3DfS_DTbaFZmEJ6uvnbkAQsJpiUDT915CRZ5oBl91-0sNgqNx6ifeOoLZsNmmJLzo5v5d-XkjCKSL4mrF/s200/MOB.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BSM 09-09-138</td></tr>
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The wedding is in April, and I'm beginning to feel some pressure. Until our dresses are finished, I feel all my sewing has to be wedding-related and I don't want to be sidetracked with other projects I really don't need. Yet, I'm sure I'll need a break from wedding sewing. So that I'm not marking time until the next fitting in February, I'm going to start my MOB dress. I selected the fabric for my dress two months ago based on the wedding colors at the time. But, the colors have changed slightly (<span style="font-size: x-small;">of course they have!</span>) and my dress no longer coordinates with the color scheme. But I don't care anymore! I like the fabric - I like the pattern - I making the dress! No one is going to be looking at me anyway - no matter how gorgeous I look! I've made this dress for another wedding, so I'm familiar with the process.<br />
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I lost several weeks due to illness, surgery and recovery. I'm behind my self-imposed schedule. But I'm back on my feet now. I have a renewed sense of purpose and I'm ready to go!<br />
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<br />Elarayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06487492651398001387noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1288846139221731381.post-12926803017063009522013-12-10T12:28:00.000-05:002013-12-10T12:38:38.868-05:00Wedding Dress Diary: Part 1<b>October</b><br />
After trekking to NYC to buy the fabric, I am finally emotionally ready to start the wedding dress. I still have 6 months, so I don't feel rushed, but it's time to get moving. Somehow, making the dress makes the fact that she is getting married more real. I feel like I'm loosing a daughter.<br />
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My first challenge was laying and cutting out. The china silk I chose for the lining and the silk organza underlining was not wide enough to accommodate the train. I had to buy more. As much as I enjoyed my fabric shopping trip to NYC, I didn't really feel like going back so soon. But I made adjustments to my schedule and planned to go back. But, before jumping on the train, I made a trip to <a href="http://www.jackbfabrics.com/index.html" target="_blank">Jack B's</a>, on Philadelphia's Fabric Row, the <a href="http://anothercreation.blogspot.com/2013/04/wedding-dress-adventure-chapter-one.html" target="_blank">store that burned down</a> when I first shopped for wedding dress fabric. (They were able to reopen right across the street.) And, praise God, they had just the silk and organza I needed. No trip to NYC was needed.<br />
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My first task was to sew the organza underlining to the dress pieces. I wanted to have the shell of the dress done so DD could try it on when she was in town for her shower.<br />
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<b>November</b><br />
I was able to finish the shell for a fitting. All that was required was to take the sides in. When Linds tried on the muslin, she wanted a loose fit, but my <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My bestie's DD & my younger sister at the shower.</td></tr>
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younger sister (who was in town for the shower) and I were able to convince her to have a closer fit. <br />
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I finished the dress, except for the hem, before Thanksgiving and took several weeks off before starting the lace overlay.<br />
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<b>December</b><br />
The lace is tuning out to be as big a challenge as I feared. It's very soft with a beautiful hand -- not at all like the crap I used in the muslin. But, it is still a challenge. I decided to use a 4 thread overlock for the seams. When the lace overlays the satin, the seam is practically invisible. When it overlays Lindsey's skin, it will be finished nicely.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvR2pYYHd4CjAtbXvSAbJWo5ZwE_YWBYjwnQ-nDNksVItjNOTHKaBgbqF5HxCDCk4vVEp7w_QFo7Iw-indnlbbBjQbTm3YBMDa2L9QXlx4S7c8uPjizgFWThqy9LMmnVvWRTWkpGrhl5hI/s1600/SAM_1020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvR2pYYHd4CjAtbXvSAbJWo5ZwE_YWBYjwnQ-nDNksVItjNOTHKaBgbqF5HxCDCk4vVEp7w_QFo7Iw-indnlbbBjQbTm3YBMDa2L9QXlx4S7c8uPjizgFWThqy9LMmnVvWRTWkpGrhl5hI/s200/SAM_1020.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYlAFHmZ3OvKKGnKv7LSVHXThpuYG9ZkyMR8aBFA4tFWRNS560G3t33oNg09QQSRn9UzyAfIgMBYGiS7FOGbXI-_MsjLYgJwCK-tVU20VbzgHjNRKyU2yIbrhRfTe19a71_BjkHyPJVrcr/s1600/SAM_1021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYlAFHmZ3OvKKGnKv7LSVHXThpuYG9ZkyMR8aBFA4tFWRNS560G3t33oNg09QQSRn9UzyAfIgMBYGiS7FOGbXI-_MsjLYgJwCK-tVU20VbzgHjNRKyU2yIbrhRfTe19a71_BjkHyPJVrcr/s200/SAM_1021.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
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It is nearly impossible for me to distinguish the right side of the lace. I hope it's just as impossible for everyone else, because I can't guarantee I made the distinction correctly every time. Once the lace is ready to be permanently sewn together, I'll have one more challenge. For some reason, I thought basting using pink thread would be good because it would be easier to see and remove from the lace. Then I thought, "I might not have to remove all of the basting. I can serge right over it." So now, half is basted in pink and half in white. Oh well, one learns through one's mistakes. Anyway, the lace overlay is basted and ready for the next fitting, which will take place when Lindsey and I are together for her last Christmas as a single girl!<br />
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I don't plan to do any sewing for myself until this wedding dress is finished. I've taken breaks, sometimes long ones, between phases but now I'm ready to move and get this job done.<br />
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PS: Praise God! Lindsey's fiancé came home safely from Afghanistan!<br />
<br />Elarayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06487492651398001387noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1288846139221731381.post-82756815987918568752013-10-25T18:39:00.000-04:002013-10-27T09:32:32.844-04:00Burda v. Burda<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Since I'm such a big fan of BurdaStyle magazine patterns, I was intrigued when I heard a US version of BurdaStyle magazine would be published. I bought a copy so I could do a comparison.<br />
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I only use the Plus sizes, so my comparison is limited. The plus collection in the US version was the collection from the March 2013 European/English issue. I didn't check to see where the other patterns came from. I was a little disappointed that the patterns were from seven months ago. Maybe future issues will be more current. Since magazines are put together so far in advance, that probably won't happen.<br />
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When I was a BurdaStyle neophyte, my biggest complaint about the European/English edition of BurdaStyle was the vague and awkwardly translated sewing instructions. The US version promised clearer instructions. I compared the instructions for jacket 138. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAc5ohFd8KeVhi_46jpx7i1QHOohYqWkQcJGprRrzhYwPbPfLaCAYByk2XSgfJRPyWOEoibxcjjKsFT0MvO3Oir2xKWk8E9TFqAgPyCugR_-f4hFW7YMWUxt0fKoDIztBtKxGkVXa3ddK9/s1600/03-2013-138.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAc5ohFd8KeVhi_46jpx7i1QHOohYqWkQcJGprRrzhYwPbPfLaCAYByk2XSgfJRPyWOEoibxcjjKsFT0MvO3Oir2xKWk8E9TFqAgPyCugR_-f4hFW7YMWUxt0fKoDIztBtKxGkVXa3ddK9/s200/03-2013-138.jpeg" width="166" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BSM 03-2013-138</td></tr>
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<b>European</b>: Pin facings right sides together with jacket. Pin lapel fold lines together.<br />
<b>US</b>: Right sides together, pin facings to jacket, with lapel fold lines together.<br />
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<b>European</b>: Stitch lining to inside facing edge, right sides together. Lay lining inside jacket with wrong sides facing, pulling linings into sleeves<br />
<b>US</b>: With right sides together, stitch lining to inside facing edge. With wrong sides together, lay lining inside jacket pulling linings into sleeves.<br />
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Now that I've had a chance to compare the two instructions, they don't seem to be all that different. I don't know what I was complaining about all those years.<br />
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The US version has more editorial content, much like the original German version.* Both versions include information on how to use BurdaStyle patterns. This is featured more prominently as editorial content in the US version. Both versions have illustrated step by step instructions for one garment.<br />
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Some, but not all of the patterns are included in the US version. Some have to be downloaded from BurdaStyle.com and … *gasp* … <i><b>taped together</b></i>! I don't mind tracing, but taping and tracing might be too much for me.<br />
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This new US version is perfect for sewers who are curious about European pattern magazines. I imagine a sewer buying a few issues of the US version, falling in love with the patterns and fit, and then switching to the unadulterated European/English version. However, a sewer could get the BurdaStyle experience by sticking with the US version.<br />
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*See Monkeyroom's video comparison: <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXEr3FzMQWw" target="_blank">Click Here</a><br />
<br />Elarayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06487492651398001387noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1288846139221731381.post-50055473260972586422013-10-15T12:30:00.000-04:002013-10-16T11:22:17.130-04:00The Great American Dress Project<b>"The Great American Dress Project"</b> might be a little hyperbolic. A more accurate statement might be, "I've got three dresses in my queue." While putting away summer clothes, I realized I just didn't like most of the dresses in my closet. Some went into the trash and some will be donated. I went into SWAP Mode and sat down with my Burda index and Vogue Fabric Store swatch catalogs. I selected four dresses I liked and found suitable fabric (I hope) for three of them.<br />
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After lengthy cogitation (<span style="font-size: x-small;">I love that word!</span>), I concluded the problem with the discarded dresses was the poor fabric choices I'd made. Choosing the best fabric for a project continues to be a problem for me. The few dresses from my closet that I didn't throw out were made from solid or nearly solid fabrics. So, with that in mind, I made the following choices:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWgfP7010O-ZJoEaDkdmazfDGea5JWzNpRug3-5NZmRGC3_ReFBR2Ukzevx2AeMguej5eNg5vChsQ_fuaRHYnaZl_nA3GeeGBWPex3vEYgtyR9Cc3A0A4SDaLxpxJ7UExHGKW8HUPi2NRV/s1600/138.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWgfP7010O-ZJoEaDkdmazfDGea5JWzNpRug3-5NZmRGC3_ReFBR2Ukzevx2AeMguej5eNg5vChsQ_fuaRHYnaZl_nA3GeeGBWPex3vEYgtyR9Cc3A0A4SDaLxpxJ7UExHGKW8HUPi2NRV/s320/138.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">BSM 08-13-138</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhONnFyWSZM-h0G5jSGKpF-QQtO51m5mDqxq8-HKlDTs8q0v0eglW0OOelVaKGZn5WjNu3kXSA05aCPMdhNfPmcRoaUkWJzugBlKqQn0eT1Cdk1IY6NT9Vm6BytgO9WYaxHA7lvFAHYTAat/s1600/133B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhONnFyWSZM-h0G5jSGKpF-QQtO51m5mDqxq8-HKlDTs8q0v0eglW0OOelVaKGZn5WjNu3kXSA05aCPMdhNfPmcRoaUkWJzugBlKqQn0eT1Cdk1IY6NT9Vm6BytgO9WYaxHA7lvFAHYTAat/s320/133B.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">BSM 01-13-133B </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcSYCj32CIznbJN7s5x8CXttL0Nu3kKl_WWyVsCL5-WdhihKlNmoWWS79xi7uVbJI9n3fCiQoCdc0fYHdPMegmiwZ6JcaZxXvokSlqP_Lc9HWybStczsaRquqzQcqovstzBCs_z_yVhiNT/s1600/143.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcSYCj32CIznbJN7s5x8CXttL0Nu3kKl_WWyVsCL5-WdhihKlNmoWWS79xi7uVbJI9n3fCiQoCdc0fYHdPMegmiwZ6JcaZxXvokSlqP_Lc9HWybStczsaRquqzQcqovstzBCs_z_yVhiNT/s320/143.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">BSM 06-13-143</span></td></tr>
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Another dress in my queue is my Mother of the Bride Dress. After an initial misstep in fabric selection, I have made the following assignment:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoNg-5qYqGg1ut0F4Sv9MEKBIhWK-aEXSPma2GNH7oo4PtpHJXhxSTJXm4mt8sRG9RYXYWBFwRcux5onMPIb4XpUcPdPBh6G1sDxRVJuHm9YOGP84WFUFpRNIZK-__YqWVVzESHZPU7mSW/s1600/MOB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoNg-5qYqGg1ut0F4Sv9MEKBIhWK-aEXSPma2GNH7oo4PtpHJXhxSTJXm4mt8sRG9RYXYWBFwRcux5onMPIb4XpUcPdPBh6G1sDxRVJuHm9YOGP84WFUFpRNIZK-__YqWVVzESHZPU7mSW/s320/MOB.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">BSM 09-09-138</span></td></tr>
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I hope I've made better fabric choices with these dresses. I don't want to throw these dresses away next year when I do my closet change-over. Elarayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06487492651398001387noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1288846139221731381.post-21593224369553265032013-09-27T12:07:00.000-04:002013-09-27T12:07:03.134-04:00Wedding Shopping in NYCIt was time to shop for wedding dress fabric. And where else to shop but the fabulous fabric stores in New York City? I originally planned to shop alone because I had a singular purpose and I didn't want to be distracted. This was not a social shopping trip. But, I'm so glad I changed my mind and contacted <a href="http://nancyksews.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Nancy K</a> and she agreed to meet me. We arrived at Penn Station within minutes of each other, had lunch and hit the stores!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSUkIM9SgzxQM4yjFe4AlrF9yuMLIV0q_71J14Ic5fv5AnBZ_S-DwAKxf7xuaUlMLf6zWzoNUsqq3yR9ebQB7vKjeN8m_RqFbce7IMnEt9h7AS5xkrsOrEAsTXeCm11ocVXHpV9IkL6qC_/s1600/SAM_0770.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSUkIM9SgzxQM4yjFe4AlrF9yuMLIV0q_71J14Ic5fv5AnBZ_S-DwAKxf7xuaUlMLf6zWzoNUsqq3yR9ebQB7vKjeN8m_RqFbce7IMnEt9h7AS5xkrsOrEAsTXeCm11ocVXHpV9IkL6qC_/s200/SAM_0770.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just a peek</td></tr>
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The major feature of Lindsey's dress is lace and I needed wide yardage, which might have been difficult to find anywhere else but New York City. I downloaded and printed a Garment District Shopping Guide from a few years ago. The guide listed a store named Lace Star. Perfect, right? I googled Lace Star and discovered Lace Star was now <b><a href="http://fabrics-fabrics.com/" target="_blank">Fabrics & Fabrics</a></b>. (<span style="font-size: x-small;">See more information <a href="http://www.shopthegarmentdistrict.com/2012/06/what-happened-to-lace-star.html" target="_blank">here</a>.</span>) Nancy had Fabrics & Fabrics on her list as well, so we went there first. What a fabulous place!!! A phenomenal selection of special occasion fabrics. An impressive selection of every other kind of fabric. I originally planned to find what I needed at B&J Fabrics, but we never made it there after visiting Fabrics & Fabrics. I found 95% of what I needed for Lindsey's dress there. The sales associate was extremely patient and helpful and I sought out the owner and told him what a gem she was. Because I bought so much, the associate was able to be flexible on the prices and the dress came in under budget.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0QDpUE7djVFu_sktbaSAbfdhrAUTpChmpGswjGGHjCIGaOaXQLxyVGWm5CUb-SCERFX_yG88B1w5l3SYoWp3KdgGanhLuOrfGxyN1Pf6dZpX8G36cdL5xYJo1QVaZYMdnHdhU7oc4ysE_/s1600/SAM_0763.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0QDpUE7djVFu_sktbaSAbfdhrAUTpChmpGswjGGHjCIGaOaXQLxyVGWm5CUb-SCERFX_yG88B1w5l3SYoWp3KdgGanhLuOrfGxyN1Pf6dZpX8G36cdL5xYJo1QVaZYMdnHdhU7oc4ysE_/s320/SAM_0763.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A better choice</td></tr>
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Since I came in under budget, I could buy something for myself at Mood Designer Fabrics without guilt. I'd changed my mind about the <a href="http://anothercreation.blogspot.com/2013/07/mother-of-bride-dress.html" target="_blank">pastel satin fabric</a> I bought for my MOB dress. What was I thinking? I'm not a pastel satin kind of person. (I can use that satin to make a dress for Lindsey's next Marine Ball.) I had shantung in mind when I first considered my MOB dress. I found a dark teal iridescent silk shantung. The iridescence gives the fabric a really dressy look and I think the color is more suitable for a mother of the bride. I also bought a piece of denim from Mood. I wanted to make a pair of colored jeans that seem to be the current style. But, I didn't want to have the same buyer's remorse I had with the pastel satin, so I found a light blue denim with a little pink woven in to add color.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgxaXPiA17w91fNgV4n4Oenbi_0hC8xqcd9CaGjGORYiTUiwPMD9BBFkhEyTrGGqGfah3Ko-j26BhwiR745U-wPTazJYnZBm_11xYomH1LxdG1wjUG3ifU1sXMJ3eHpwpNBbkO7Vlzkyld/s1600/SAM_0773.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgxaXPiA17w91fNgV4n4Oenbi_0hC8xqcd9CaGjGORYiTUiwPMD9BBFkhEyTrGGqGfah3Ko-j26BhwiR745U-wPTazJYnZBm_11xYomH1LxdG1wjUG3ifU1sXMJ3eHpwpNBbkO7Vlzkyld/s320/SAM_0773.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Denim with a touch of pink</td></tr>
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This was an extremely satisfying shopping trip. I found exactly what I needed for the wedding dress, I spent time with a good Sewing Buddy, I found a new favorite store and including the purchases for myself, I stayed well within my allotted budget. I doesn't get much better than that!<br />
<br />Elarayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06487492651398001387noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1288846139221731381.post-43558755733667811252013-09-16T08:00:00.000-04:002013-09-16T08:00:11.141-04:00Finished: BPF FW-06-402 and V8689<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_6cyZLaQmG7rBC65vs_55K4kynNkFCpzIhKWHzntGYGgmFyhBoyNuB8KvHWyxTvwv4uoUyrruIB_1KUdThUJEEOlq2kX_JlrLgXHatv95ViocKLXWMnxHwC1yPuRMWNdynyjY95w1PNMF/s1600/SAM_0748.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_6cyZLaQmG7rBC65vs_55K4kynNkFCpzIhKWHzntGYGgmFyhBoyNuB8KvHWyxTvwv4uoUyrruIB_1KUdThUJEEOlq2kX_JlrLgXHatv95ViocKLXWMnxHwC1yPuRMWNdynyjY95w1PNMF/s200/SAM_0748.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
I am terrified of color. When I match a print with a solid, I want one color in the print, preferably the most obvious color, to match the solid exactly. Matching solids is much more difficult. Matching solids keeps me up nights. One would have thought this fabric combination was a no brainer. The blouse fabric has a dark red warp (<span style="font-size: x-small;">or is it weft?</span>) and a navy blue weft (<span style="font-size: x-small;">or is it warp?</span>). The pants fabric is navy blue. Perfect together, right? Yet, I'm still not entirely comfortable with this pairing. I have a real problem with color. <br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Blouse: Vogue 8689</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWPAiuWQM9S-rb6F9GkVZAhgKxmLq0-Kh__TNa7oOZS6VsqX7R0vr7KjDnzEQLsil226ake9oAARNBPrh-MhKWw6Y-mAvS4SoZ6PrKK-yylX5C3c0EFdcd5MeA_n3N_hzJ7PAmLEGTElb9/s1600/Slide1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWPAiuWQM9S-rb6F9GkVZAhgKxmLq0-Kh__TNa7oOZS6VsqX7R0vr7KjDnzEQLsil226ake9oAARNBPrh-MhKWw6Y-mAvS4SoZ6PrKK-yylX5C3c0EFdcd5MeA_n3N_hzJ7PAmLEGTElb9/s320/Slide1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Pattern Description:</b><br />
Long or short sleeved blouse with princess seams and front and back yoke.<br />
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<b>Pattern Sizing:</b><br />
This pattern comes in sizes 6 - 22 with custom fitting for A, B, C, or D cup sizes.<br />
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<b>What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?</b><br />
I liked the vertical seams.<br />
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<b>Fabric Used:</b><br />
100% cotton<br />
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<b>Construction:</b><br />
Sewing this blouse was really fun! I love it when I have the opportunity to use my favorite foot, #10 edge stitch, so much. And the 100% cotton fabric behaved very nicely. In the past, I always pinned with the pins parallel to the cutting line. This time, after watching <a href="http://www.dailycrafttv.com/videos/4340_7-core-sewing-skills/" target="_blank">Seven Core Sewing Skills</a> at Daily Craft TV, I pinned with the pins perpendicular to the cutting line. It could have been my imagination, but it seemed to really make a difference – even with a rotary cutter. The fabric laid flatter at the cutting line and hills and jagged bits that sometimes occur were eliminated.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwlXOubPvmgG5Jq61-GSnhV8uFz3pmWX2UhljE-mpY3d7FVCKgQgx8ywfoM2GffbD2FmfIsRwwGPDoy9LAu-POROXcBcnzcAKbgP1bENxvsmFtJgxSjKyhciO77ErpKvbqy2F76O4H5u-1/s1600/SAM_0752.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwlXOubPvmgG5Jq61-GSnhV8uFz3pmWX2UhljE-mpY3d7FVCKgQgx8ywfoM2GffbD2FmfIsRwwGPDoy9LAu-POROXcBcnzcAKbgP1bENxvsmFtJgxSjKyhciO77ErpKvbqy2F76O4H5u-1/s320/SAM_0752.JPG" width="303" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Pants: Burda Plus Fashion FW-06-402</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYICHXHRENNarkeKTWgPGuSlIvCkBwWr2vaUfDIHSUq-G3g32xrVV3-Y0-EqR-XwNrJ-PEDhBZRZayz3tq-JIZbannUtsPobF027uC8JsfRMFtAeMgCMDZFtGTx-IRwXw4gpe6LUTXKwpv/s1600/Slide1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYICHXHRENNarkeKTWgPGuSlIvCkBwWr2vaUfDIHSUq-G3g32xrVV3-Y0-EqR-XwNrJ-PEDhBZRZayz3tq-JIZbannUtsPobF027uC8JsfRMFtAeMgCMDZFtGTx-IRwXw4gpe6LUTXKwpv/s320/Slide1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<b>Pattern Description:</b><br />
Now that I'm semi-retired, I've adopted a very casual work "uniform" that consists of "Docker Knock-Offs." I put welt pockets on the back of fly front pants, use a twill fabric and I call them Docker Knock-Offs. Pair them with a top and I'm ready for a more casual work environment.<br />
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<b>Pattern Sizing:</b><br />
Burda's plus size range 44 - 52<br />
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<b>Were the instructions easy to follow?</b><br />
I've sewn this pattern a jillion times and I've developed my own sewing order. I didn't use the instructions.<br />
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<b>What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?</b><br />
This is a classic, simply styled design.<br />
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<b>Fabric Used:</b><br />
Nave blue twill.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuoRplqqOCUQDjiZqpTS9xHzcuR-VxarrkZ4KE0ZenR74h5snzsC5TeG0OOU2Bx4JgBDFbozAEwdEs_vpNowBc8wSw_UPe2v_G9_s6vH4DgO6TPL4IwgzXMFYh4jkcoK2QrXFcFdbxYQUc/s1600/SAM_0751.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuoRplqqOCUQDjiZqpTS9xHzcuR-VxarrkZ4KE0ZenR74h5snzsC5TeG0OOU2Bx4JgBDFbozAEwdEs_vpNowBc8wSw_UPe2v_G9_s6vH4DgO6TPL4IwgzXMFYh4jkcoK2QrXFcFdbxYQUc/s200/SAM_0751.JPG" width="200" /></a><b>Construction</b>:<br />
When I make my Docker Knock-Offs, I vary the way I finish the welt pockets. This time I chose a double welt with a button.<br />
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I'm glad the blouse has long sleeves. I have several weeks before it's cool enough to wear it and I have time to get used to wearing the two colors together. I'm hopeless when it comes to color. I wonder if there is a support group for the color-phobic.<br />
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Elarayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06487492651398001387noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1288846139221731381.post-80551499548246301942013-09-03T08:30:00.000-04:002013-09-03T08:30:04.659-04:00Wedding Dress Adventure: Chapter Three<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZEKfi9cfZlGxpSLNtStUdUnvQFeYGvyiXaDZh_mtOT-83jrtl5AmOgBJK3Nj8JGecPtV1jBMbpI8C9hogiC9rX_XoV7mHNb27f-lK9T304_Rn40-Nf60sBpF9eoLXRpTGCKXWXnsvZ9c2/s1600/For-Blog.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZEKfi9cfZlGxpSLNtStUdUnvQFeYGvyiXaDZh_mtOT-83jrtl5AmOgBJK3Nj8JGecPtV1jBMbpI8C9hogiC9rX_XoV7mHNb27f-lK9T304_Rn40-Nf60sBpF9eoLXRpTGCKXWXnsvZ9c2/s320/For-Blog.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
It's almost time. The preliminary muslin fittings are finished. The pattern pieces have been traced and stored in handy little mailing tubes. The Wedding Dress Adventure is about to begin in earnest. <br />
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So far, everything is on schedule (and I pray it stays that way). Sometime at the end of October, Lindsey and I have to get together and shop for fabric. She gave me permission to select the fabric without her, but I wouldn't want to rob her of another chance to ignore my suggestions and do things her way. Early in the summer, I saw a lace I really liked on a hurried visit to B&J Fabrics in New York. If we can't synchronize our schedules, I might just take her up on the offer and head back to New York and buy the fabric by myself.<br />
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Long distance dressmaking is going to be a challenge. Once the fabric is purchased and I'm ready to sew, I'll have to pack up my machines and sewing supplies and spend several days in Richmond (in her one bedroom apartment with no TV) so she will be available for try-ons. I remember how she hated to try on the prom dresses I made for her. I hope I'm not met with the same resistance this time. Especially after driving four to five hours on I-95. Major construction won't start until well into the fall because in addition to sewing her dress, in October I'm giving her a shower here in Pennsylvania. I can only focus on one thing at a time. I suspect she asked me to give the Pennsylvania shower so I will stay out of her way while she plans the wedding.<br />
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I won't be sharing too many pictures of the dress in progress. I don't want to jinx anything by revealing too much. In the meantime, here is a picture taken during the last muslin fitting:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimmFwqN3GTU4cOtevPwwq7T53PagqsoMdONOnzgkVe3njN63VSmAxLq7KyUxn9n0D5fESIibYYylL51M1VTByn79hn5Uht8P9kxOD7wvhpHceo6fiRpg6RyXZa5oOZhbGB1TRj91f_1-nM/s1600/SAM_0728.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimmFwqN3GTU4cOtevPwwq7T53PagqsoMdONOnzgkVe3njN63VSmAxLq7KyUxn9n0D5fESIibYYylL51M1VTByn79hn5Uht8P9kxOD7wvhpHceo6fiRpg6RyXZa5oOZhbGB1TRj91f_1-nM/s320/SAM_0728.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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If my prayers are answered all goes according to plan, she'll be beautiful!Elarayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06487492651398001387noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1288846139221731381.post-52696607575034107032013-08-20T08:00:00.000-04:002013-08-20T09:31:55.365-04:00Finished: BSM 08-13-137<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">New Rule: When looking for Burda Style Magazine patterns to sew, I should focus on current issues. </span></div>
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What's the point of subscribing to a monthly, fashion forward pattern magazine if I'm sewing patterns from years ago? I wanted a classic long sleeved blouse and I almost used a pattern from 2008. I looked through my index, refusing to look at anything before 2012 and found three or four suitable options, including 08-13-137.</div>
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<b>Pattern Sizing</b>: European plus size 44 - 52</div>
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<b>Construction: </b>The most interesting aspect of this blouse was the sleeve construction. The sleeve appears as set-in, but it is attached as if it were a raglan sleeve. I didn't make that connection when I first read the instructions. I realized the similarity when I was well into the process of attaching the sleeve. </div>
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First, the side seams, but not the shoulder seams, were sewn. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9W6cloQfFNSbMEjYd6IVYVD7iB59PGFlJTsdjJrdEx2axQTyQCbl0y0DG6ZbFqtLrPiXS9UrffIyWWzFTMbYPF40tF5UzlW2KB2e62nQaZN1jIlc1PlZa9LkweVRifL9dfnxFQ7CPiQvX/s1600/SAM_0716.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9W6cloQfFNSbMEjYd6IVYVD7iB59PGFlJTsdjJrdEx2axQTyQCbl0y0DG6ZbFqtLrPiXS9UrffIyWWzFTMbYPF40tF5UzlW2KB2e62nQaZN1jIlc1PlZa9LkweVRifL9dfnxFQ7CPiQvX/s320/SAM_0716.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">Then the sleeve was attached to the armhole. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiq8GyQ-9TKqFtjcSQNeCCgFRFVZnp7f-Mo5FSfM61FOJFw9adzk30x6DP2-PofJQEWE8o0xjcWZKRlfgXTB22Dl6uQfiTYy8Eoh_kQsMtHMUiv_4KmNxMbAZBb7TdzUwxrgN1eDHAZGa7/s1600/SAM_0717.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiq8GyQ-9TKqFtjcSQNeCCgFRFVZnp7f-Mo5FSfM61FOJFw9adzk30x6DP2-PofJQEWE8o0xjcWZKRlfgXTB22Dl6uQfiTYy8Eoh_kQsMtHMUiv_4KmNxMbAZBb7TdzUwxrgN1eDHAZGa7/s320/SAM_0717.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">Finally, the shoulder and upper sleeve seams were sewn in a continuous seam.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGOdimejmsJgx37Vry5GpGv2puL2sLrMm1Y_uDbyCxS6xb3S5rFtv0bxlzGyDUCmkXQ-DC8JgUsR26BGe-lOPskIXlwidsprdZRH5KopA2DYSIHlj2yL22EhwgGJTf3Xy1wJAl_t21qf1V/s1600/SAM_0718.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGOdimejmsJgx37Vry5GpGv2puL2sLrMm1Y_uDbyCxS6xb3S5rFtv0bxlzGyDUCmkXQ-DC8JgUsR26BGe-lOPskIXlwidsprdZRH5KopA2DYSIHlj2yL22EhwgGJTf3Xy1wJAl_t21qf1V/s320/SAM_0718.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><i>(The diagrams above are from a different blouse in the September 2013 issue of BSM, not my blouse from the August issue. Just imagine the result being a set-in sleeve.)</i></span></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">I used to be so intimidated and annoyed by Burda instructions. But</span><span style="text-align: center;"> I was able to attach the sleeves without the benefit of the illustrated instructions. Sewers might be put off by Burda magazine's instructions, but one really does get used the them as you sew them more.</span></div>
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<b>What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?</b></div>
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I liked the dart placement on this blouse. I also like the way the sleeves are finished. Most of my long sleeved blouses have cuffs. </div>
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<b>Fabric Used:</b></div>
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I really don't know what this fabric is. I don't even remember when and where I bought it, although I <i>think</i> I may have bought it in San Fransciso during PR weekend. This fabric behaves like challis. It's soft and drapey and wrinkles a lot.</div>
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<b>Conclusion:</b> </div>
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I can't imagine making a muslin for every garment I sew, but I see the advantages. If I think of this blouse as a muslin, there are some changes I would make if I make this blouse again. The sleeves are a little too long and the blouse is a little looser than I expected. For my casual, semi-retired life life, this blouse is just fine.</div>
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<br />Elarayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06487492651398001387noreply@blogger.com8