The Search is Over

For most of my life, I have been searching for two things.  (Actually, I've been searching for a lot more than two things, but this blog is about sewing.)

1. marking tool that washes out 
2. iron without auto shut-off

I think I might have found my two holy grails.  

The Clover Pen Style Chaco Liner may just be the marking tool I've been looking for.  The yellow color shows up on both dark and light colored fabrics.  The powdered chalk stays on the surface of the fabric and brushes away easily. There are other chalk wheels available, but I like that this marker can be held like a pen. I found the other chalk markers are a little awkward to hold.  I know this tool isn't new, but I never tried it.  Now that I have, I love using it.

NB:  The timer pictured is not the heavy duty timer I actually use

The Chaco Pen is fun, but I was more excited about finding an iron without auto shut-off.  Like many sewers, I got annoyed when my iron shut off after eight minutes.  I spent lots of money on the Oliso Pro iron because it shut off after 30 minutes. That was a major fail.  It took several months before I would even consider another expensive iron.  Finally, I tried the Reliable Digital Velocity V100.  This iron has a feature that allows me to override the 8 minute auto shut-off.  Fingers crossed, so far it's been great.  The Oliso iron stayed on for 30 minutes.  The Reliable iron stays on forever, which could be a problem if a person tends to forget to unplug or turn off the iron (like me).  So I devised a system to override the override.  I keep the iron plugged in to a heavy duty timer.  When I start to sew, I set the timer for the amount of time I expect to sew and plug it into the outlet.  Then, I enable the iron's override feature.  If I forget to unplug the iron when I finish sewing, the timer will shut the iron off.  Of course, I'm trying to get into the habit of unplugging the iron, but this is a good back up plan.  I was cautioned that the 1800 watt iron may be too much for the timer to handle, but I contacted the timer manufacturer and was told the heavy duty timer could handle the iron.  Use this tip at your own risk. 

I don't know why I'm doing this, but I'm told I have to.

So here goes ………

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Finished: BSM 01-10-136

Burda Style Magazine 01-10-136

I wanted to sew a pair of jeans even though  I was several years too late for the online sew-alongs.  I have two separate Today's Fit patterns for jeans.  I considered, and almost bought the jeans pattern from Butterick's Connie Crawford collection. Fortunately, I remembered Burda 01-10-136 before I bought a third pattern for jeans.  The garments I make with Burda require very little adjustment.  Or should I say, I choose to make few adjustments to the garments I make with Burda.  So Burda was the perfect choice for jeans.  The jeans in the January 2010 issue of Burda Style have been on my to-sew list since January 2010.  It was time to finally make the darn jeans.

Pattern Description: 
Basically, these are typical 5 pocket jeans.  They have patches on the inner thighs and binding on the hip and back pocket edges.

Pattern Sizing:
These jeans are from Burda's plus size collection.  Available sizes: European 44 - 52

Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions were not as difficult as I expected.  I simply ignored the instructions I didn't like.  I used Sandra Betzina's instructions for zippers and I made a few changes to the way the waistband and belt loops were made.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Only the thigh patches make them different from 5-pocket jeans.  The thigh patches are sewn onto the legs and can easily be omitted.

Fabric Used:
Denim with a little bit of lycra for stretchability.

Conclusion:

I'm aware of the wrinkles and folds in the jeans (as shown in the picture on the left) and I know they point to areas that need adjustment.  But, in this case I'm satisfied with "good enough".  I usually wear tops like the one pictured on the right.  Covering the wrinkles and folds is an easier than endless adjustments and remakes.

Top-stitching is important in jeans.  Topstitching is much thicker than regular thread.  I discovered, after a couple of globby messes on the underside, that holding the topstitching thread and preventing it from being drawn into the bobbin area eliminated the globby messes.  I used my favorite edge-stitching foot for the first row of topstitching and then my quarter-inch foot for the second row.

I've learned making jeans is not a big deal, so I'm sure I'll be making more.  When I make these jeans again, I will raise the waistline an inch or so.  I know the style is to wear low-rise jeans.  But, I'm not a big fan of low-rise jeans.  The trend seams to be colored jeans these day.  I'd like to try a pair of those for spring.  (Finally, I'll be wearing something trendy!)

A Sewer's Gotta Do What a Sewer's Gotta Do

I have not been shy about proclaiming the two things I dislike most about sewing.

1.  Sewing knits

2.  Making muslins

Recently,  I addressed my knit aversion buy purposely seeking out, buying and sewing more knits.  Now, I'm about to vanquish my other sewing demon.  I gotta to make a muslin.

I bought Sarah Veblen's fitting book,  The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting.  Why would a self-proclaimed muslin-hater buy "the ULTIMATE  reference for fitting test garments and transferring accurate adjustments to patterns"? Because my daughter got engaged and wants me to make her wedding dress! That's why!!!!

My future son-in-law is a lieutenant in the Marines and was recently deployed to the middle east (please pray for him) so the wedding won't be happening for quite a while.  In the meantime, I have plenty of time to learn to love muslins.  There are other things in my favor:

• I've made my DD's prom gowns, so I'm not a total novice to formal wear.
• She's bringing home a wedding dress that belonged to a co-worker's daughter so I can study it up close.
• In addition to buying the ultimate muslin book, I have Claire Shaeffer's Couture Techniques Workshop DVD, Claire Shaeffer's Couture Sewing Techniques, and last but not least, Susan Khalje's Bridal Couture. 

Yet, with all these resources, I'm still apprehensive.  I've been sewing for more than 40 years and I've encountered lots of techniques, including some of the techniques used in wedding gowns.  It's not so much the techniques or processes that worry me (although I AM worried; especially if she wants lace), but I've never sewn a project with such strong emotional connotations.  I'll be lucky if I don't cry all over the dress!

So, if anyone has any advice, tips, sources and resources, stimulants, sedatives or liquor, please share!

Finished: Kwik Sew 3013

It's been many months since I've posted a "Finished:" post.  It's been many months since I've posted any post. I haven't had a mojo for sewing or blogging.  I've sewn more wadders than successes.  It's best not to sew when your mojo is gone.  When a project turned out well,  dragging out the backdrop, tripod and camera seemed too much effort.  Finally,  I finished an easy project at the same time my laziness didn't prevent me from taking a picture and writing a blog post.

Kwik Sew 3013:  Click for PR review

I wanted a simple knit top to wear around the house.  I love wearing knits, but I don't love sewing them.   The cut edges rolled up, one of the things I hate most about sewing knits, but because it's a heavier weight, the roll-up was manageable.  This top is so comfortable, I didn't want to take it off after taking the photograph.  Previously, I made this top using a medium weight knit, but it just didn't look right when I finished.  Choosing the wrong fabric is a mistake I keep making over and over again.

I used one of my machines functional stitches, the double overlock stitch,  for decorative hems and neckline.  It adds a little ready-to-wear look to the simple top.

Now that my sewing mojo (and maybe even my blogging mojo) is back, I may get back to more challenging projects.

All I Wanted for Christmas

Last Christmas, my Darling Daughter surprised me with a Caribbean Cruise.  We went in October and, in spite of Superstorm Sandy, we had a wonderful cruise.  My greedier self wondered how she would top last year's gift.  Well, she did.  She wants to learn to sew and asked for a sewing machine.  The gift is just as much mine as hers.  We spent the weekend before Christmas sewing together.  What gift could be better than that?

As soon as she told me what she wanted, I ran to my trusted dealer to select a starter machine.   I was shown two options in my price range: Babylock Molly and Singer Confidence Stylist.  The two machines were exactly the same price.  I chose the Singer because it had a few more bells and whistles and gave her more room to grow if she sticks with it.

So, on the Friday and Saturday before Christmas, I taught my daughter to sew.

First, she got familiar with using the machine, including good posture.

Before:  Aching back after 20 minutes

After:  Ready to sew for hours

Her first project was a pouch, and she was quite proud.

Look, Mom!  I did it!

Our next lesson was reading a pattern, layout and cutting.

Cutting out pattern pieces

Finally, she made her first garment, a skirt, KwikSew 3765 , which, when you compare construction techniques,  was very similar to the pouch!

First garment! (Unhemmed)

She was a very good student and her attention to detail borders on obsessive.  I also bought her a book,  Sewing 101, a very good book for beginners with DVD included and I recommended she take a class at JoAnn.  I wish she lived closer so I could work with her more.  But, I had a great time teaching her and she seems willing to keep sewing.