No one loves BWOF design details more than I do. But, every once in a while a woman just needs a break!!! My next project has no design details - none! The neckline on the shirt is just turned under - not so much as a band!!! If I complain about BWOF instructions for this project, I need to turn in my sewing machine. The hardest part will be laying out the knit for the top because knits don't like to stay where you put them. Other projects in my queue are more detailed, but at this time, I really want something quick and dirty. I will not get over-confident about this project, though. I am quite aware that Murphy's Law applies to sewing. This would be the time I cut a big hole in ……… no, I will not speak that into existence. Just because this is an easy project doesn't mean I'll finish it quickly. My schedule is full this week and I'll be away this weekend. This is a good time for a little hiatus from sewing – just long enough to make me hungry again.
Monday, October 20, 2008
Next: BWOF Plus Fall 07 #404 Top & #405A Pants
No one loves BWOF design details more than I do. But, every once in a while a woman just needs a break!!! My next project has no design details - none! The neckline on the shirt is just turned under - not so much as a band!!! If I complain about BWOF instructions for this project, I need to turn in my sewing machine. The hardest part will be laying out the knit for the top because knits don't like to stay where you put them. Other projects in my queue are more detailed, but at this time, I really want something quick and dirty. I will not get over-confident about this project, though. I am quite aware that Murphy's Law applies to sewing. This would be the time I cut a big hole in ……… no, I will not speak that into existence. Just because this is an easy project doesn't mean I'll finish it quickly. My schedule is full this week and I'll be away this weekend. This is a good time for a little hiatus from sewing – just long enough to make me hungry again.
Sunday, October 19, 2008
Finished: BWOF 03-2008 127 & 126B
I took Lindsay T’s posts to heart. (July 14 and July 12, 2008) This project represents the first time I used an interfacing other than the Pellon I buy from JoAnn. I ordered Pro-Woven Fusible from Fashion Sewing Supply. Working with non-Pellon interfacing was quite an eye-opening experience. I kept thinking, “This really makes sense; woven fabric – woven interfacing.” The interfaced areas had noticeably more body, yet the fabric was not stiff.
Pattern description: Pants with invisible zipper on the side, elastic in the back waist and double welt pockets.
Pattern Sizing: Plus size
Did it look like the photo/drawing once you were done sewing with it? One of the things I like about BWOF is the garments always look like the photo or technical drawing.
Were the instructions easy to follow: I’ve always said BWOF instructions were sparse, but that isn’t really accurate. It’s just that the instructions aren’t what I’m used to. There is essential information in places I’m not used to looking. For example, hidden in the "Seam and Hem Allowance" section, the instructions say to cut the seam allowance on the center panel 1 inch wide rather than the usual 5/8 inch. When reading over the instructions, I sometimes skip the seam allowances section to go directly to the construction directions. Needless to say, I was confused when I read the directions for the flat-fell seam: “Turn in panel seam allowance on side front trouser pieces 5/8 inch next to marked seam line, and press.” What the … ??? That sentence didn’t make sense to me when I thought the seam allowance was 5/8 inch.
The pants included double welt pockets in the back. I had little confidence in the BWOF directions for welt pockets. Luckily, I found help on the BurdaEnglish website and in "Pants for Real People". I also spent some time last summer practicing welt pockets.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the decorative flat fell seam on the front of the legs. It adds a subtle decorative feature. I also like the double welt pockets on the back. I think double welt pockets add a little class to garments.
Fabric used: 100% cotton twill
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: The only pattern alteration was to add 1 inch to the length.
Conclusion: Making these pants will have a lasting influence on future projects. First, I no longer fear welt pockets. As long as I don’t try to take shortcuts, welt pockets are not that difficult. Second, working with the Pro-Woven Fusible interfacing was a dream. (NAYY) I don’t think I’ll be going back to Pellon.
Pattern Description: Long sleeved blouse with princess panels on the front and back
Pattern Sizing: Plus sized
Did it look like the photo/drawing once you were done sewing with it? Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow: I’m becoming more familiar with BWOF English translation. The instructions presented no problem.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? As usual, I like BWOF’s design details. The shape of the hem, the collar, the princess seaming all appealed to me. However, the design details presented challenges. Practically every seam had to be eased in some way or another – sometimes quite a lot.
Most of the time, the ease could be controlled with 50 million pins.
When attaching the rounded corner of the hem band to the bottom of the blouse I used long gathering stitches, but I had to be very careful so it didn’t look gathered. In addition, the seam allowances in the corner had to be clipped.
Fabric used: 100% cotton. Fabric with lycra was recommended. I didn’t use it, but I wish I had. The blouse is a little snug. I used Pro-Woven interfacing in the blouse and I was thrilled with the results.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Usually I lengthen blouses. I didn’t in this case but I should have. Since I chose not to use a stretch woven, I should have increased the bust a little. I don’t have wiggle room the bust area.
Conclusion: My expectations for this blouse were high and I am I a little disappointed. But the fault is my own. I was being lazy. I should have lengthened the blouse as I usually do, and I should have used a fabric with stretch. From now on, I’ll pay more attention to the fabric recommendations.
BWOF 03-2008-126B - Pants
Pattern description: Pants with invisible zipper on the side, elastic in the back waist and double welt pockets.Pattern Sizing: Plus size
Did it look like the photo/drawing once you were done sewing with it? One of the things I like about BWOF is the garments always look like the photo or technical drawing.
Were the instructions easy to follow: I’ve always said BWOF instructions were sparse, but that isn’t really accurate. It’s just that the instructions aren’t what I’m used to. There is essential information in places I’m not used to looking. For example, hidden in the "Seam and Hem Allowance" section, the instructions say to cut the seam allowance on the center panel 1 inch wide rather than the usual 5/8 inch. When reading over the instructions, I sometimes skip the seam allowances section to go directly to the construction directions. Needless to say, I was confused when I read the directions for the flat-fell seam: “Turn in panel seam allowance on side front trouser pieces 5/8 inch next to marked seam line, and press.” What the … ??? That sentence didn’t make sense to me when I thought the seam allowance was 5/8 inch.
The pants included double welt pockets in the back. I had little confidence in the BWOF directions for welt pockets. Luckily, I found help on the BurdaEnglish website and in "Pants for Real People". I also spent some time last summer practicing welt pockets.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the decorative flat fell seam on the front of the legs. It adds a subtle decorative feature. I also like the double welt pockets on the back. I think double welt pockets add a little class to garments.
Fabric used: 100% cotton twill
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: The only pattern alteration was to add 1 inch to the length.
Conclusion: Making these pants will have a lasting influence on future projects. First, I no longer fear welt pockets. As long as I don’t try to take shortcuts, welt pockets are not that difficult. Second, working with the Pro-Woven Fusible interfacing was a dream. (NAYY) I don’t think I’ll be going back to Pellon.
BWOF 03-2008-127 Blouse
Pattern Description: Long sleeved blouse with princess panels on the front and backPattern Sizing: Plus sized
Did it look like the photo/drawing once you were done sewing with it? Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow: I’m becoming more familiar with BWOF English translation. The instructions presented no problem.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? As usual, I like BWOF’s design details. The shape of the hem, the collar, the princess seaming all appealed to me. However, the design details presented challenges. Practically every seam had to be eased in some way or another – sometimes quite a lot.
Most of the time, the ease could be controlled with 50 million pins.
When attaching the rounded corner of the hem band to the bottom of the blouse I used long gathering stitches, but I had to be very careful so it didn’t look gathered. In addition, the seam allowances in the corner had to be clipped.
Fabric used: 100% cotton. Fabric with lycra was recommended. I didn’t use it, but I wish I had. The blouse is a little snug. I used Pro-Woven interfacing in the blouse and I was thrilled with the results.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Usually I lengthen blouses. I didn’t in this case but I should have. Since I chose not to use a stretch woven, I should have increased the bust a little. I don’t have wiggle room the bust area.
Conclusion: My expectations for this blouse were high and I am I a little disappointed. But the fault is my own. I was being lazy. I should have lengthened the blouse as I usually do, and I should have used a fabric with stretch. From now on, I’ll pay more attention to the fabric recommendations.
Tuesday, October 14, 2008
Is Sewing Making a Comeback?
It is, if you believe Philadelphia Magazine!Last weekend, I got an e-mail from a local independent fabric store telling me the store would be featured on an early morning news broadcast. Naturally, I watched. The report said, and I'm paraphrasing, "Sewing is the new knitting." and cited an article in Philadelphia Magazine as it's source. Not only has sewing been given the seal of approval by the magazine, but new stores have opened! Cloth and Bobbin recently celebrated it's first anniversary. Based on information on the website, it looks like Spool opened in March 2008. It looks like the two stores carry almost identical merchandise, i.e. Amy Butler and Favorite Things.
I never stopped sewing, so this isn't really a comeback to me. But I'm glad to see new businesses opening and more publicity about sewing.I knew if I waited long enough, sewing would be "in" again. I hope this "new sewing trend" continues.
Sunday, October 12, 2008
In Memory of my Cousin Muriel
I grew up in Chemung County, in the Southern Tier of New York State (light years from NYC). I’ve spent the last 30-plus years in Southeastern Pennsylvania. Periodically, I drive to New York to visit family who still live there and I’ve just returned from such a visit. While driving through the Pocono Mountain region in Eastern Pennsylvania , a realization came to me – after living in southeastern Pennsylvania for more than 30 years, this was the very first time I'd driven to NY during the fall when the leaves are changing color. The colors were absolutely beautiful. I wanted to stop several times to take pictures, but there are very few places along the PA Turnpike I considered safe enough for a photo shoot, so I waited until I reached a turnpike rest stop. I was traveling to attend the memorial service of my cousin who left us much too early (she was only 42 years old). In spite of the sad circumstances, or maybe because of those circumstances, I could not help but be inspired and uplifted by the beautiful scenery. I realized I must stop more often to appreciate the beauty around me. The loss of my cousin made me appreciate the experience more profoundly than I would have under different circumstances. I hope these pictures serve as a reminder to us all – we must stop and appreciate even the smallest miracles in our lives. Life goes by too fast.
(click images to enlarge)
Sunday, October 5, 2008
There's No Business Like Show Business - Pt 2
It occurred to me that I never showed a picture of the dress I made for the Curio Theatre's production of "The Trial". This was really a fun project because it forced me to think outside the box - something I rarely do (and should do more often!). Aetna, the costume designer and one of the actresses, sketched her ideas and then found a pattern to use as a foundation. She chose Butterick 5049 for this design. She does some sewing herself and she knows her way around a pattern catalog. The challenge was adding the collar. I used Make Your Own Patterns by Rene Bergh for help on drafting the collar. I'm so glad I had this book. Drafting a pattern piece is much easier than I thought but I couldn't have done it without the clear instructions in the book. I plan to do more of it. Now that I've successfully completed this project, I have the confidence to make design changes to the garments I make for myself.So, if you are in the area, come on down to Southwest Philadelphia and see the play. I'll be the one signing autographs!
Sunday, September 28, 2008
Satin Edge Flat Fell Seam
One of the details on BWOF 03/2008-126 I especially liked was the seam on the front legs of the pants. It’s actually a modified flat fell seam that is decorated with a satin stitch. I love subtle details, but I wanted the satin stitching to stand out - just a little. So, I considered using either woolly nylon (shown on left) or machine embroidery thread (shown on right) rather than all-purpose thread for the satin stitching. After some testing, it was easy to see that machine embroidery thread was the better choice.
Rather than offsetting the seam allowances, as is sometimes done in a flat fell seam, two different seam allowances are adding during tracing: a 1” allowance (shown on the left) and the normal 5/8” allowance, shown on the right.
On the 1” seam allowance, I drew a line 5/8” away from the seam line and pressed that amount to the wrong side, making both seam allowances 5/8 “.
The satin edge stitching is done along the pressed edge. I used a width of 5 and length of 0 .7 and Bernina’s foot #2 - overlock foot to prevent the fabric from tunneling under the stitches.
Once the satin edge stitching was finished, I sewed the seam, wrong sides together. Both seam allowances were now 5/8” .
I trimmed away 3/8” on the seam allowance without satin stitching and pressed the remaining seam allowance over the trimmed allowance.
The final step was to topstitch the satin edge to the fabric.
The result is a decorative flat fell seam that, from a distance, looks a little like piping. It can be used in a number of garments where a flat fell seam already exists or added into a garment as a decorative detail.
Typical of BWOF, a simple process was obscured under awkwardly translated directions. But with persistence and help (Tany pointed out the unequal seam allowances months ago when I asked for her help. I’m sure she’s forgotten by now!) I achieved a design detail I really like!
Click on photos to enlarge
Rather than offsetting the seam allowances, as is sometimes done in a flat fell seam, two different seam allowances are adding during tracing: a 1” allowance (shown on the left) and the normal 5/8” allowance, shown on the right.
On the 1” seam allowance, I drew a line 5/8” away from the seam line and pressed that amount to the wrong side, making both seam allowances 5/8 “.
The satin edge stitching is done along the pressed edge. I used a width of 5 and length of 0 .7 and Bernina’s foot #2 - overlock foot to prevent the fabric from tunneling under the stitches.
Once the satin edge stitching was finished, I sewed the seam, wrong sides together. Both seam allowances were now 5/8” .
I trimmed away 3/8” on the seam allowance without satin stitching and pressed the remaining seam allowance over the trimmed allowance.
The final step was to topstitch the satin edge to the fabric.
The result is a decorative flat fell seam that, from a distance, looks a little like piping. It can be used in a number of garments where a flat fell seam already exists or added into a garment as a decorative detail.
Typical of BWOF, a simple process was obscured under awkwardly translated directions. But with persistence and help (Tany pointed out the unequal seam allowances months ago when I asked for her help. I’m sure she’s forgotten by now!) I achieved a design detail I really like!
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