Finished: BWOF 05/05 #133

This dress is such a disappointment. I hate when this happens! I spend time making a dress and I can't wear it. I won't be able to wear this dress unless I loose a few pounds and inches. I should have made a muslin first. This might be just the thing to get me back on my elliptical machine! And we won't even discuss my truck driver's tan lines! The fabric I used was sheer - maybe not too sheer for some, but too sheer for me. So I underlined it with plain old cotton broadcloth. Underlining made the fabric more opaque and easier to work with. It would have slipped and slid all over the place and I would have been even more disappointed and upset. The photograph below shows two upper side fronts. The one on the left is not underlined; the one on the right is underlined with orange broadcloth. If you look carefully (click to enlarge) at the piece that is not underlined, you can see the lines of the cutting mat show through. The underlining also brightens up the fabric. I used my walking foot to underline each and every piece except the facings. I used the same process on my daughter's prom dresses, so I was only mildly annoyed about the extra work.

Pattern Description:
Sleeveless, high waisted dress

Pattern Sizing:
European 44 - 52

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?
For the most part, the directions were very easy to follow. I had to go to another source when it came to doing the neckline and armhole facing. I used the directions found in Claire Shaeffer's High Fashion Sewing Secrets. Shaeffer's directions include illustrations, which make the procedure (which is somewhat awkward) much easier to understand.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I chose this particular dress because it was compatible with fabric I had. The fabric spoke to me and said "summer dress". I don't particularly like things that zip on the side. If I made this again, I would move the zipper to the back.

Fabric Used:
I don't actually know what the fabric is! It's lightweight, moderately sheer and a plain, weave. Not quite as sheer as organza. Originally, I bought the fabric to make a blouse that coordinated with wool I bought for pants. But the fabric is sheer and summery and I didn't want to wear it with wool pants.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I shortened the dress to the length of 05/2005-134 (in the same issue). If I make this dress again, I would lengthen the neckline/armhole facing unit so that it would be less likely to roll up and out of the dress. The procedure for this change is also in Shaeffer's book. Since I underlined it, I was able to tack the facing to the underlining.

This dress ended up being too tight in the bust area. I need help zipping it up and once it's zipped, it's hard for me to move my arms. I should have lengthened the top - the empire seam is not below my gravity-challenged bust. I'm really disappointed in the results. All of the problems could have been solved by making a muslin (a lesson I learned long ago, but it seems it hasn't stuck yet). I like that I solved the opacity problem with underlining. I like that I found easier directions for the all-in-one neckline/armhole-facing. Even my invisible zipper looked good! The only problem is I can't wear the dress!

Ottobre Design: 2/2007 #2 T-shirt #15 Capris

I bought two Ottobre Woman magazines last winter and I finally made something from one of them. (2/2007). I considered a subscription, but I thought I'd try-out a pattern before I spent money on a subscription. I used the same sizes I use for BWOF, but without my usual changes. For me, the fit is very similar to the fit I get in BWOF. Tracing was more challenging because the lines for all the sizes are the same - no dotted lines to help differentiate sizes. The directions are just as sparse as BWOF's, but apparently Ottobre hired better translators because the directions are easier to understand.

The T Shirt
The t-shirt was typical. I used ribbing for the neck band. I felt the band was too long for the neckline, so I shortened it by about 3/4 inch. I've always stretched the band to fit the neckline. Before my adjustment the band fit the neckline in a 1:1 ratio. If I make this t-shirt again, I'll lengthen the body and adjust for the way the fron hikes up. I'd also have to add a little to the bust area.

The Capris
I wanted to see how an unaltered Ottobre pattern fit my body so I didn't make my usual changes to the capris. Usually I raise the waist. I'm reasonably satisfied with the way the pants fit. Ottobre used an unusual method for the fly front. In Ottobre's directions, the zipper shield was sewn to the zipper first, before sewing the zipper in the pants. I couldn't figure it out, so I ripped it out and used a method with which I'm more familiar. I used denim for these capris, but I didn't have a denim needle. The last denim I used was really heavy and it was difficult to sew through several layers, like the belt loops with my old Elna Diva (RIP).

We interrupt this post for a word from our sponsor …



My Bernina 430 proved to be quite a workhorse while sewing this project! It sewed through four to six layers of denim, using a regular size 80 needle, with no trouble! I held my breath when I got to the thick areas and the Bernina went through all layers like buttah! I love this machine!


And now, back to our post.


I wasn't impressed enough with Ottobre to order a subscription. This outfit will be good for knocking around the house. The fit is good - Ottobre patterns will require the same changes I make to BWOFs. However, the designs are a little too ordinary. Ottobre lacks the design details I love in BWOF. I will check the website periodically and consider buying single issues from SewZanne if there are enough potential projects in the issue.

Back to Les Fabriques

Since I was in Charlottesville, VA for Univ. of VA Freshman/Parent Orientation, I returned to Les Fabriques. This visit was more enjoyable and productive than my first visit. During this visit, the sales people were more friendly and responsive. They asked what I was looking for when I entered the store. When I gave my "I don't know … I'm waiting for something to speak to me" answer, they left me alone to browse and seemed to understand what I meant about fabric speaking to me. (Or … they thought I was crazy and left me alone out of fear.) When I'd decided what I wanted and was able to articulate it, a salesperson went to the back and brought out exactly what I had in mind - a piece of navy blue cotton twill soft enough for the partial elastic waist on back the pants. The fabrics in the store were arranged by color. Since I try to buy coordinating pieces together, this arrangement was helpful. All of the blue fabrics were together and it was easy to find the blue and white dotted fabric for the blouse. One of my issues during my previous visit was the prices. My selections were very reasonably priced - each was less than $10.00/yd. They still have the beautiful, expensive pieces, but this time, I was able to find something within my budget. This outfit, from the March 2008 issue of BWOF, has been on my mind since I first saw the issue. If I stick to my plan, I should have this outfit finished by the end of the summer and in time for the summer/fall transition.

Oh yeah, UVA's Freshman/Parent Orientation was also enjoyable and productive!

Marking Tools

Once, I ruined a blouse because the lines I made to guide decorative stitching did not wash out. I used colored chalk and a holder for that catastrophe. Ever since, I have been on a quest for the perfect marking tool. Air and water soluable markers make nice clear marks, but for some unknown reason, mine dry out rather quickly. Even though I'm careful to replace the cap, I've seldom had one that lasted more than two or three months. Chalk wheels are good, but it's hard to make small, precise marks with a wheel. Good old tracing paper and tracing wheel are fine for marks on the inside of garments - just in case the paper is wax-based and won't come out if you iron over the marks. And, I still have nightmares about Cidell's experience with orange wax chalk.

I read a tip about using Crayola erasable colored pencils to mark fabric and a fabric eraser to remove the marks. I've been using them quite successfully for several months. (NB Do not use the Twistables - the eraser makes a darker mark than the pencil. What a mess!) I like the ease and maneuverability of using a felt tip marker on fabric. Even though I was happy using erasable colored pencils, I tried washable markers. The marks were bold and visible, but were they truly washable?

I conducted a little experiment (on a day when I had too much time on my hands). I used a piece of gray cotton broadcloth and marked with the washable markers and erasable colored pencils. It was much easier to write with the markers - they glided over the fabric like a dream – just like writing on paper. The pencils dragged and skipped on the fabric causing gaps.

Then, I washed the cloth by hand using bar soap. The erasable colored pencil washed out almost completely. If you look carefully (click to enlarge), you can see traces of the purple marker still on the cloth. (I used a regular colored pencil to label the samples.)

The results of my experiment were not new or earth-shattering. Both the erasable pencil and the washable marker washed out without special laundering. My quest taught me there is no perfect marking tool. It's always best to test first. If I'm unsure about using any kind of marking tool, I use thread tracing.

Finished: BWOF+SS08 - 414A Dress

This is my "Dress of Invisible Features". Everything I like about the design is invisible to the naked eye.

Pattern Description:
Shirtwaist dress with contrasting sleeve bands and hem band.

Pattern Sizing:
European 46 - 54

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Typical BWOF instructions

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the design. I prefer tailored dresses over dressy dresses. I like the contrasting sleeve- and hem-bands, although my fabric selection didn't show off that contrast - the first invisible feature. If you look really closely at the photo, you'll notice the hem band and sleeve band have a subtle stripe. Another feature you can't see is the bib in the bodice. (Click smaller photo to enlarge) The edgestitch foot made it very easy to achieve even top stitching. Clipping the corners made it easy to achieve square corners. But, those details are lost in the fabric. You'd have to have your head in my bosom to notice them (and unless you are Denzel Washington, Morris Chestnut, Taye Diggs or my next husband you're not going to get that close). Usually I wouldn't wear a dress with a seam at the waistline because it calls attention to my NDW Syndrome (No Discernable Waist). But this dress silhouette is boxy enough so I can get away with it. The pleats in the skirt give the illusion of a waist. The dress is shown with a belt in the magazine, but I may or may not try to find a belt. The skirt has in-seam pockets, but one would want those to be invisible.

Fabric Used:
"Linen-look" from JoAnn. Linen is my favorite fabric to sew, but because it wrinkles so much, it's not my favorite fabric to wear. This synthetic linen is just as easy to sew, but it isn't as breathable as the real thing. It's a good weight and works well as a dress fabric.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
The only change I made was to lengthen the bodice by one inch.

Conclusion:
I wish I'd chosen fabrics with more contrast. The features that attracted me to the dress are nearly invisible because of my fabric selection. However, the dress is comfortable and I'm satisfied with the fit.

First Self-Drafted Pattern

This is my first self-drafted pattern!
Click to enlarge.

This is a skirt pattern drafted for my daughter. Don't you just love all of those ~lines~ and everything! It really wasn't that difficult. I used Make Your Own Sewing Patterns by Rene Bergh. This book gives step-by-step directions for drawing each and every line. I'll have to retrace it to clean it up and remove the unnecessary construction lines. Of course, it looks good neatly drawn on paper. I'll have to make it up in muslin to really see if it works. Only four measurements were needed: waist, hips, finished length and hem circumference. I made an educated guess on the hem circumference measurement based on a skirt I'd just finished for Daughter.

This is the type of project I won't do from beginning to end. Now that I've drafted the front and back, I'll put it aside until I get muslin. Once the muslin is made, I'll probably put it aside again until I get the real fabric. This project is an experiment in pattern drafting. The goal is to make a garment from a self-drafted pattern, not necessarily to end up with a wearable garment. It's an added bonus if the skirt is wearable.

If this experiment is successful, I'd like to get my hands on a copy of Ms Stylebook. I believe those patterns are self-drafted rather than traced. I'm not sure if Ms Stylebook has plus size selections, but I'd like to look over a copy - just to see.