Finished: Burda Plus Fashion FW-2010-405

BPF FW-2010-405
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My lastest finished project is #405 from the Fall/Winter 2010 issue of Burda Plus Fashion. I can't believe I've had the fabric since last May, PR Weekend in Chicago.  I usually don't let fabric hang around that long.  The fabric is 100% polyester and pressing it really made me appreciate natural fibers.  I had to use lots of steam and a clapper to get the seams to press open.

I thought the print fabric needed some contrast. I was lucky to find the black contrasting fabric at JoAnn. The two fabrics are essentially identical and they work well together. Adding the contrast was easy.  I determined the width and drew a line on the bodice pattern piece (front and back).  Then, I laid tracing paper over the bodice and traced the new contrast band piece.  Next, I added the seam allowance to the band and to the new edge of the bodice and cut out the pieces.  I recommend including a notch for matching the pieces.  An even easier method would have been to draw the line, cut the pattern piece apart and add seam allowances.  The bodice is lined with self fabric rather than faced.

No one would ever notice, but I used a tone-on-tone decorative stitch on the insert.  I took the time to audition several stitch patterns to find one that complimented the print.  I needn't have bothered.   I like a tone-on-tone effect for its subtlety, but this passes subtle and goes right to invisible.

I'm happy with the way this dress turned out.  I glad that decided to add the contrast.  This may end up being a favorite dress.

Hiatus

Where did the time go?  It's been a month since I've posted anything.  Blogging seems to have slipped off the radar while I wasn't looking. So, I've decided to put blogging aside for a while.  I'm fully aware that my little blog is just a speck of dust in cyberspace, but I've come to know people in the blogosphere and in real life who might have noticed my absence, if only as a passing thought.   I'm still healthy; still sewing; still reading blogs and boards (and occasionally commenting).  Just as maintaining a blog slipped off the radar, when the time is right, it will slip back on.

Pivot and Slide with Side Pocket

I use the pivot and slide method to make pattern adjustments.  When making pants with a side pocket, as 99% of my pants are, I usually ignored the pocket and adjusted only the hip yoke.  I read about a method for handling side pockets in Fitting Finesse (Zieman, 1995).  I missed it because it was hidden in the chapter on skirts.  This method used waxed paper and a tracing wheel to trace three layers of waxed paper at one time.  I couldn't use this method since I don't use waxed paper.  The marks made by the tracing wheel on my tracing paper were barely visible.  But, I realized I needed to adjust all three pieces (pants front, side hip yoke and pocket lining) and I modified the method to suit me.  The important part of this method is what I call "The Master Pattern".

1. Trace pants front master pattern.  Layer hip yoke and pocket lining pattern pieces into position, matching notches and dots.  Trace lines for hip yoke and pocket lining pieces onto the master pattern.  For easy identification of pieces, use a different color for each piece.
 

2.  Make adjustments to hip yoke.  Lay tracing paper over master pattern and trace hip yoke piece and side and waist seams (red).  Mark adjustment point measured distance from side seam.  Pivot to increase and trace new lines.  Be sure to trace side seam and waist line differences (red colored-in sections).

3. Make adjustments to pocket piece.  Lay tracing paper over master pattern again and trace pocket piece and side and waist seams (green).  Mark adjustment point measured distance for side seam.  Pivot to increase and trace all new lines.  Be sure to trace opening edge and waist line differences.

4. Increases appear on front, hip yoke and pocket lining.  Adjustments are made to the center front, center back and side back as usual.

So far, I've only tried this method on paper.  I'm eager to make my next pair of pants so I can try it out.

Finished: BSM 04-11-138A and BSM 09-10-135

Top: Burda Style Magazine 04-2011-138A

I  hate sewing knits prefer sewing wovens.  Lately, I've been more selective when choosing knits and I've been more successful.  I purchased this knit from Gorgeous Fabrics and sewing it really wasn't that difficult.  The only difficulty was choosing the correct needle.  A jersey needle worked better than a stretch needle on this fabric.  Usually, it's been the other way around.  I don't know why it made a difference, but it did.

Pattern Description:  
This top is actually an amalgam of two tops.  The body is BSM 04-2011-138A and the neckline is Pamela's Patterns #104.  The original Burda neckline showed too much skin.

Pattern Sizing:
The BSM body comes in Plus sizes  44 - 52.  Pamela's Pattern is XS - XL

Were the instructions easy to follow? 
Since I used two patterns, I used two sets of instructions. Both were very easy to follow.  The original BSM top called for a turned under seam allowance at the neckline. I preferred a bound neckline, so I used the instructions from Pamela's Pattern.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The fabric was slightly busy, so I wanted a simple design. This long sleeved t-shirt had no design details to conflict with or get lost in the fabric.

Fabric Used:
I hastily selected this fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics.  All I wanted was a black and white knit.  It was easy to sew and I'm slowly changing my mind about knits.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I tried making the changes to the neckline without using another pattern but I lost my nerve at the last minute.  Good thing.  When I compared my neckline adjustment with Pamela's Pattern neckline they were vastly different.   My neckline would have looked really strange and I probably wouldn't have worn the top.

Conclusion: 

There will be other times when I want a no-frills long sleeved knit top.  I'm certain to sew this again.

Pants: Burda Style Magazine 09-2010-135

How many pairs of black pants does one woman need?  According to my closet, several.   I've made yet another pair.

Pattern Description: 

These are typical fly front pants.

Pattern Sizing:
This is a Burda plus size pattern, European 44 - 52

Were the instructions easy to follow?


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
These pants have a partial lining on the front. I didn't know that when I decided on these pants, but I like the idea of a partial lining. The front lining was basted to the pants front and the two pieces were treated as one (technically, an interlining).  Even the fly guard was lined.  It makes a very neat appearance on the inside of the pants.

Fabric Used:
I bought this wool blend last year on a field trip to FabricMart.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I did not make any alterations to these pants, but when I make them again, I will add maybe an inch to the waist.

Conclusion: 
My next pair of pants is likely to be this pattern.

Sewing Mojo v. Blogging Mojo

I've been spending more time in the sewing room and less time at the computer.  I'm glad my  sewing mojo is back but it's been difficult to find time or motivation to document my sewing progress in a blog.  I finished this outfit over a week ago, but I didn't take the time to photograph or write about it.  Really, there isn't much to say.

Tank Top - Burda 3215:  Piece of cake!  The instructions called for a turned under finish on the neckline and armscye.  I used bias binding instead.

Pants - Burda Plus Fashion SS-2010-426 : These pants have an elastic waist and a mock fly.  I think the concept of a mock fly is a little silly.  It's just as easy to install a zipper – so I did.

Blouse - Burda Plus Fashion SS-2010-424:   The blouse fabric was somewhat sheer,  but I chose not to do french seams.  A serged seam was good enough for this casual outfit.  I decided on a narrow 5-thread stitch with the chain stitch needle in the rightmost position  and wide three thread overlock stitch.  When I tried to insert a needle into the rightmost position, it just wouldn't GO!   The next day, I took my serger to the dealer for a little look-see.   I thought the problem was me, but it turned out there really was something wrong with the machine. The good news was it could be fixed while I waited.  The bad news was I had to wait while it was being fixed!  I love my dealer, but waiting for over two hours did get a little tedious.  It wasn't a total waste of time, though.  I got to read a few sewing books that were in the store and I advanced two or three levels in Angry Birds on my iPod.

The straight stitch needle plate made a big difference in sewing the lightweight fabric.  I paired the needle plate with the patchwork foot and I had no problems with the delicate blouse fabric. 

I worked on this outfit in 20-30 minute periods to give my mojo time to get unpacked and settled-in.  I'm happy with the outfit because it turned out just the way I pictured when I bought the fabric.  

If I Thought of it ………

……why didn't the Bernina engineers think of it?

Recently, I bought a straight stitch plate for my sewing machine.  I can imagine sitting down to the machine, switching to a utility stitch,  and ………wait for it ………… BAM!  The needle hits the the plate, breaks and scares me out of 6 months of life.  And let's not even think of the broken needle point flying toward my eyes.  As I sit at the machine, there is no easy way to tell which plate is in the machine by simply looking.

It's very easy to tell the plates apart when they are not in the machine.

Here's an idea:  Put the bright red warning decal on the FRONT of the plate when it can be seen!   Sure, I can mark the front of the plate with a permanent marker or a stick-on dot, but shouldn't someone at Bernina have thought of that?   

NB: I broke a needle before I even had a chance to edit and put up this post!!!