Next: BWOF 01-09-130 Pants & BWOF 05-08-128 Blouse

Currently, I'm working on my first warm weather project, which means it has short sleeves. Many of the blouses BWOF has been showing recently are "long blouses", but I'm shortening this blouse. BWOF is known for being "fashion forward". Next year, if everyone is wearing long blouses, I'll be ready to jump on the bandwagon. Shortening this blouse demonstrates how my sewing has changed over the years. The "old me" would have just drawn a straight line at the new length and cut off the extra. The "new me" determined the amount to be removed and measured up from the bottom at various points along the hemline, thus maintaining the subtly shaped hem. It's hard to see the shape of hem because it is more of a fitting detail than a style detail. Most BWOF blouses are a little longer in the front to account for the larger busts while keeping the appearance of a straight hem. Since I sew BWOF almost exclusively, I'm not sure if all pattern companies and all sizes have this feature. There is also a slit in the sleeve that isn't evident in the technical drawing, garment photograph or the style photograph. Sometimes the design details in BWOF are surprises.

Win Some – Lose Some

I had two shopping goals:

1. Find green buttons for green fabric
2. Find satin to match the yellow matte jersey I bought at G street

I thought finding the buttons would be the easier task because PA Fabric Outlet has so many buttons it makes my eyes cross. I'm very picky about fabrics that are supposed to match, so I never expected to find a yellow satin that matched the jersey. But, I found zero matching green buttons and two matching yellow satins. Go figure.

I never expected to find a knit and a satin the same color unless I settled for black or white. Finding the yellow definitely put the fabric purchase in the win column. I settled for the bone colored buttons because at least they pick up a coordinating color in the blouse fabric. I had my mind set on matching green buttons, so the button purchase was originally assigned to the loss column. But, if I open my narrow little mind, I can move the buttons to the win column, too.

G-Street Field Trip

Several weeks ago, I had an idea. I thought it might be fun to drive the 2 1/2 hours to Rockville, MD during my spring break for a return visit to G Street Fabrics, which has always represented "Fabric Store Mecca" to me. Then, serendipitously, I learned three of my cousins, whom I seldom see because they live in Georgia, would also be in Rockville during that time. So, we had a mini-family reunion and I got to buy some nice fabric.

I went to G Street twice during my short stay in Rockville. My non-sewing cousins were with me during the first visit. Fabric shopping with people who don't sew puts a damper on things, so I went back alone the next morning while everyone else was sleeping-in and I had a much better time. I wasn't rushed and no one offered opinions on the prices I was willing to pay. (G Street is not cheap.) But, thanks to information from Cidell, I knew to visit the $2.97 tables and found some nice pieces.

The following pieces came from the $2.97 table.

A natural colored linen and a cotton plaid









A 2-way stretch ecru gabardine and a cotton print










Since I saved so much by shopping the $2.97 tables, I splurged on this matte jersey knit.









I found these when I went back the next morning.

A cotton bottom wieght and cotton shirting with subtle checks









Of course, the pattern assignments are subject to change

Several days before my trip, I read on the web-site G-Street Fabrics is moving from its Rockville Pike location. I spoke with one of the sales associates about the move. I learned all of the stores in the shopping center are moving because the shopping center is being replaced with condominiums. G Street's Rockville location is the largest fabric store I've ever seen. The sales floor has a departments that are almost as large as some entire stores I've visited in both Philadelphia and New York City. There is also room for Bernina sewing machines and sergers, patterns, classrooms on the main level and home dec fabric on the lower level. The new location will not be as large. I'm curious about how they will fit everything into a smaller space. I guess I'll have to go back after the move in this summer.

These purchases mark the beginning of my Spring/Summer sewing season. With these purchases and my patternmaking project, I should have enough to keep me busy for quite some time.

Finished: Burda 7670 Blouse & 7676 Pants

This outfit was fun to sew! Maybe it was because I was really in love with the fabric. I mean, it's red! What's not to love!

Blouse: Burda 7670

Pattern Description: From the website: "Both versions of the chic shirt/overblouse have a fashionable collar with stand added to their V-neckline. Shoulder yokes and section seams make the wearer look taller and more slender! "

Pattern Sizing: 44 - 60 (European)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were very easy to follow. When sewing the yoke, I used the method from Easy Guide to Sewing Blouses (Long, 1997). This method requires no hand stitching at all.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I wanted a classic long sleeved blouse and this was it.

Fabric Used: Microfiber. I don't like sewing microfiber. It doesn't ease well, it's hard to press and the fibers are almost too dense for a needle to pass through. Using a microtex needle helped with the fabric density, a clapper helped with the pressing. I couldn't do anything to make it ease.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I didn't make any alterations or changes to this blouse.

Would you recommend this pattern to others? There is no reason I wouldn't sew this blouse again. I sews up quickly if you need a blouse in a hurry.


Pants: Burda 7676

Pattern Description: From the website: "Slim-line is the buzzword for youthful narrow trousers/pants that still offer wearing comfort thanks to stretch fabrics. The upper edge of the shaped waistband just reaches to waist level. Our styling tip: The closely fitting trouser/pant legs will also fit into trendy summer boots."

Pattern Sizing: 42 - 54 (European)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? This pattern is rated "Easy".

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The pants have a "jean look" without having all the usual jean design features like front pockets. I wanted to have jeans I could wear to work a still feel like I was dressed for work.

Fabric Used: Two toned denim with spandex. Now, I know why dancers wear spandex. I feel like I can really "bust a move" in these pants. When I topstitched, the fabric tended to stretch and become slightly wavy under the presser foot. I tried decreasing the pressure of the foot, but it didn't really help. Maybe a walking foot would have been more effective.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I added an underlap to the mock fly front. Almost all BWOF pants with a front zipper include an underlap and I've gotten used to including it.

Would you recommend it to others? This pattern is perfect for a "quick" pair of jeans.

Conclusion: I'm happy with the way this outfit turned out. It will satisfy my desire for jeans suitable for work.

Guess What I Did!

I bought patterns! I broke my "All Burda - All The Time" rule and bought three Big 4 patterns; Vogue - to be specific! I don't even remember the last time I bought a Big 4 Pattern for myself. If Hell hasn't frozen over yet, as I feared in a previous post, it will freeze over when I actually sew these patterns.

I gave in to an impulse. But when I analyze the impulse, it makes sense. I gave up on the Big 4 because I preferred the way BWOF fits me. I was interested when I first heard about Today's Fit when they were first released and I wanted to try the patterns to see if they were really different. These patterns received favorable reviews at Pattern Review. Vogue Patterns were on sale at JoAnn's. So I bought a few. I'm not in love with most of the Today's Fit designs so the patterns I bought were very basic. I'm hopeful about the fit. According to information from Sandra Betzina's web site:

"Using realistic body measurements in 10 sizes, Vogue created garments that run true to the numbers—including increased dimensions for the waist and tummy."

The line about "increased dimensions for the waist and tummy" spoke to me! This part spoke to me too :

"Vogue created an entirely new sizing block to fit the shape of today’s woman, increasing the girth across the tummy, lowering the bust shaping, and varying the cup size from B to D."

Ouch. Maybe it spoke to me a little too truthfully.

In order to give Hell a fighting chance before it freezes over, I'm not going to start any of these patterns until I finish the BWOF projects already in my queue. Believe it or not, I'm a little excited about sewing them and I'm eager to see the results.

Pattern Drafting

Ever since Cidell enrolled in a pattern drafting class, I've been longing to do the same. There aren't a lot of pattern drafting classes around - even in a city as large as Philadelphia. The only pattern drafting classes I found were requirements for degree programs at local colleges and only for matriculating students. Philadelphia University, (formerly called Philadelphia College of Textiles and Sciences - with textiles in the name, I expected more) offered a certificate program in Industrial Sewing Methods with classes on Saturday mornings, and I enrolled several years ago. My daughter was younger then, and had soccer games and Girl Scout activities on Saturdays. After I missed most of a championship soccer game (which went into overtime and sudden death), I felt guilty and withdrew from the program. My daughter is all grown up now and I'm free to enroll again if I choose - without the guilt! In addition, the program has moved to Drexel University, which is closer to me. Back when I was enrolled, the program focused on fitting and construction, and not specifically on pattern making.

So, I am embarking on a journey to teach myself pattern making. I already own two books on patternmaking. Considering the cost of two well-known books; $99 for Patternmaking Made Easy (Amaden-Crawford, 2007) and $85 for Patternmaking for Fashion Design (Armstrong, 2005) , I can make the two books I already own work for me. Actually, the two books complement each other. Make Your Own Patterns (Bergh, 2006) is short on theory, but has clear step-by-step directions and excellent diagrams. How to Make Sewing Patterns (McCunn, 1977) has more theory, but it's line drawings are confusing. Both use the same approach - draft basic patterns according to your measurements and use the basic pattern as a template for making custom designs. The McCunn book has a section on taking your own measurements that will be particularly helpful for me, but I'll be depending more on Bergh for the actual patternmaking. I checked out How to Design Your Own Dress Patterns (Margolis, 1971) from the library. Margolis included exercises in manipulating quarter-scale pattern pieces. Manipulating the quarter-scale patterns helped me understand the theory and gain confidence. Neither Bergh nor McCunn included these exercises.

I've wanted to try patternmaking for over a year, but I finally feel ready to actually try making a pattern. I can work on patternmaking between garments. I enjoy having a long term project to work on at my leisure. And I do mean long term … I have no idea when (or if) I will finish this. My goal is to draft a simple, button-up short sleeve shirt. Yes, I know there are dozens of patterns for simple, button-up short sleeve shirts, but I want the challenge and the learning experience. I'll feel very proud if the result looks like a simple button-up short sleeve shirt when I'm finished.