Finished: BPF SS-2010-413

A mistake I make all too often is to arrange a bad fabric/pattern marriage.  I really loved this linen purchased during PR Weekend in Chicago and I didn't want to make a dress that didn't make me happy.  I actually put some thought into this decision.  My original plan was to sew BSM 4-11-135A with this fabric, but that would have been boring.   I realized the fabric, being a solid color, could tolerate design details like interior seams and edge-stitching.  

This is a half size pattern and is drafted for a shorter figure.  For most measurements, the difference between regular plus size and half size is no more than 3/4".  I added length above the waist to lengthen the bodice and below the waist to lengthen the hem.

Belt casing

I like Burda's unique design details and this dress had quite a few. The pattern has a belt casing in the back, a cuff at the hemline, sleeve tabs and welt pockets in the front.  I've convinced myself that the casing is subtle enough that it won't look strange if I don't wear the belt.  I think the dress is more slimming without the belt.  I was unsure about the cuffed hemline.  I decided to throw caution to the wind and include the cuff.  Somehow something went wrong when I was lengthening the dress.   The cuffed side front panels were too long and didn't match the uncuffed center front panels.  The cuff had to be eliminated.  One thing in particular I didn't like:  when drafting the patten piece for the sleeve tabs, measurements are given for a simple rectangle. In the sewing directions you are instructed to "trim one edge of tab to a point." I really wished Burda had provided that simple pattern piece.  It took a little bit of trial and error before I could draft a point of pleasing proportions.  I didn't have any other tab pattern pieces to use as a guide.   Turns out, the best looking point was a simple right angle.  You really do learn from your mistakes.  After drafting so many strange looking acute angles, I'll remember to use a right angle to draft attractive points.  I decided to eliminate the welt pockets.  The placement of the welts, in addition to the belt, called too much attention to my belly.  

I'm glad I took the time to make a good fabric-pattern match.  The fabric I loved so much is now a dress I love.