Monday, January 4, 2010

Thin Line Between Love and Hate

Kwik Sew 3586, I love you. You've saved my butt when I needed a blouse.
Kwik Sew 3586, I hate you. If I have to make you one more time I will scream real loud.

Here's the thing. Sometimes when I buy fabric, I don't have a particular pattern in mind for the fabric. So, if I'm making a blouse or pants, I've gotten into the habit of buying 3 yard lengths of everything. Since I'm a plus size woman, that lazy little trick only works if the fabric is 55 inches or wider. Lately my brain has been on auto pilot and I forgot to consider the width when I bought fabric. I bought a few 3 yard cuts for blouses when the fabric was only 45" wide. Three yards of 45" fabric limit my options considerably, especially if I want to make a BWOF blouse with many pattern pieces. I bought 3 yards of this dark green print and it wasn't enough for the blouse I decided to make. Enter ol' reliable Kwik Sew 3586. If I were a snarky, whiney, middle school b!t¢#, Kwik Sew 3586 would be the loyal friend I talk about as soon as her back is turned. You know the one -- "Kwikie's okay, but she gets on my nerves!" I loved this pattern when I bought it, but I've made it three times in six months and now it's just boring.

Anyway, on to the review.


Blouse: Kwik Sew 3586
Pattern Description:
Long or short sleeved "oxford style" blouse.

Pattern Sizing:
Plus size 1x - 4x

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I love Kwik Sew because the instructions are simple and straightforward. Of course, by now I could make this blouse with my eyes closed. The first time I made this blouse, I almost missed the fact that the seam allowances are 1/4 " instead of the customary 5/8" Kwik Sew uses on wovens.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
This pattern has a back yoke and uses a technique I love. I first learned the "roll-the-back-and-fronts-up-into-the-yoke" technique many years ago by using a Kwik Sew pattern. At the time, I thought the technique was ingenious and I still love using it. I would recommend this pattern to anyone who may not know the technique.

Fabric Used:
Cotton from Vogue Fabrics by Mail.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Luckily, this blouse doesn't need any alterations or design changes.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
This has become my "go to" pattern when I need a quick blouse.

Conclusion:
More about the 3 yard lengths: I've been told pros always lay out and cut pattern pieces on a single layer. If I did that, I might have been able to squeeze-in pieces and make them fit on 3 yards of 45" fabric. But, it's more fun being snarky and whiney.


I have no ambivalence about the pants.

Pants: Burda 8283
Pattern Description:
Traditional fly front pants with hip yoke pockets.

Pattern Sizing:
European 36 - 50
US 10 - 24

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Rather than follow the instructions given for the fly front, I always use Sandra Betzina's method for installing a fly front zipper. In my opinion, this method yields a much better looking fly front.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The design of these pants is typically classic - just what I like.

Fabric Used:
Twill with lycra from Vogue Fabrics by Mail.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I extended the hip pocket piece so that it reaches the center front. I did this on the last pants I made and I will try to remember to do it on all the pants I make from now on. Somehow, the hip pocket piece never seems to reach the center front unless I extend it and I end up with the extension hanging loose inside the pants. I treated the pocket extension and the fly extension as one so the pocket extension gets sewn into the fly.

Conclusion:
Although I started this outfit in 2009, it's the first completed project of 2010. Since it has that distinction, I wish it weren't such a no-brainer. On the other hand, I have two more TNT patterns.

6 comments:

  1. *LOL* at the snarky comments! However, you did get a great blouse and it fulfilled a need in your life/closet, so I guess the KS pattern is a better friend than you thought she was! :) And how can you be bored after 3 uses, there is something wrong with me cause I just don't get that! *sigh*

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  2. Well, maybe it is time to do what Carolyn does to TNT's and start putting you own little twists to them. Change the pocket so that it has rounded edges, and the cuffs too and little things like that. Try using contrasts for cuffs/collars - that would be a change without a major pattern overhaul. At any rate, you at least have a go-to pattern if you're not up to the cool, yet convoluted Burdas.

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  3. I've found I've been turning to Kwik Sew more and more for a lot of the same reasons as you and something in there always makes me feel like I shouldn't. I feel like I shouldn't enjoy using them so much. I like your idea of altering the pants pockets to reach the centre front. I'm going to try that because I'm sure it will give more support in the tummy area. I've been reading the David Page Coffin shirtmaking book and he talks a lot about squeezing more things out of fabric. In fact, with patience, I squeezed a dress, a jacket and a skirt out of three yards of silk tweed this weekend just past. I almost forgot to mention that I really like the fabric in your blouse. Happy New Year, too!

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  4. Your blouse and pants look great and I enjoyed your snarky post!

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  5. TNTs are great. You can change them, making them look completely different. Yours are very nice. You asked what I liked about the "Fitting and Pattern Alterion" book, recently on my blog. I have several fitting books. This one, I like because it tells the WHY of a fitting problem, and points to the area where the alteration needs to be made.

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  6. Sewist are funny people. Yesterday I read that a lady put her sewing project on punishment, and today you are talking behind your pattern's back. I needed that laugh - thanks!

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