Bendel's Patch Method
This sample was not good, but I don't blame Peggy Bendel. I had the wrong attitude when working on this sample. This was only the second or third time I've attempted welt pockets in my life. I kept wishing the process didn't take so long. This pocket is just sloppy! The corners had folds that I could not press out. The welts are not the same size. What a mess!
Shaeffer's Strip Method
Shaeffer's book details several different methods for welt pockets - I tried the "strip method" and had much better results. Rather than a single patch, welts are formed with two thin strips of fabric. By this time, I realized there are no shortcuts when making welt pockets. Every one of my books gave at least 12 steps in the welt pocket process and it's best to follow every single one of them. I set my machine speed for slow so that I could control where the stitches were going. The resulting welts were much neater.
Next, I wanted to make a sample using the actual fabric .
Palmer & Alto's Patch Method
Pants for Real People is much more than a book on pants fitting. It contains directions for welt pockets and several other design details. Basically, this method is identical to the Bendel method. I took more care and the results were better. I also included a button loop and, since the pants had darts in the back, I included a dart in my sample. By this time, my attitude had changed and the resulting welt pocket is one I am proud of.
- Welt pockets require careful marking and sewing. I even used hand basting to mark placement lines in the Shaeffer Strip Method.
- Slow is the way to go. I set my machine speed for 'slow' so I could sew carefully and stop precisely.
- It's best to follow the directions (all 12 to 15 of them!) to the letter. Maybe a more experienced seamstress knows and uses secret welt pocket shortcuts, but I'm not there yet.