I Took a Craftsy Class

I toyed with the idea of a Craftsy class for a long time. I downloaded several of the free classes and watched them while I exercised.  Finally, I paid for a class that I actually sewed along with.  The Classic Tailored Shirt was perfect for me.  I love classic tailored shirts.  I already owned the pattern used in the class -- Kwik Sew 3586.  I'd made this blouse so many times I was sick of it.  When I learned it was the pattern used in the Craftsy class, I got excited about sewing it one more time.  I cleared my mind of all experience with this pattern and, for the sake of the class, I approached it as if I'd never made it before.

My Craftsy Classroom

Some people watch the entire course all the way through before beginning to sew.  I chose to watch one lesson all the way through and then sew along with that lesson before watching the next lesson.  Pam Howard, the instructor, was very thorough and relaxed.  She didn't fill empty space with useless chatter.  I don't know if other Craftsy instructors do this since this was my first class, but I appreciated her quiet style.  As I sewed along with the video, it felt like I was in a real class.  The background noise was another sewing machine and someone talking about sewing.  And I didn't have to shlep my sewing machine to another site!

In the Craftsy platform, students can post questions and the instructor posts responses.  The uploaded questions are time-stamped so that if someone entered a question 15 minutes into the lesson, it will appear onscreen in an unobtrusive sidebar at about that time.  As I watched the class, I could read related questions and answers (and not ask a question that has already been answered).

Even though I'd made this shirt many times, I learned new techniques from the class.  I chose this class because I wanted to make flat felled seams.  I don't think I like flat felled seams.  This was the first time I made real flat felled seams and the process seemed too fussy.  I have two felling feet for my machine, but since I was following the class instructions, I decided not to use either of them.  If I ever make them again, I'll use the feet!

My goal was to sew the shirt exactly as instructed.  I didn't use a serger because the instructor didn't use a serger.   I followed instructions right up until the time she sewed on the buttons …… by hand!  I just couldn't do it.  I sewed mine on by machine.

My first ever flat felled seam

Would I take another Craftsy Class?  Yes, definitely.  I want to crush my dislike of sewing knits and Craftsy offers two classes of interest:  Sewing Fashion Knits, taught by Linda Lee and The Ultimate T-shirt, taught by Marcy and Katherice Tilton.  I'm also considering Sew Faster, Sew Better: Garment Insustry Secrets taught by Janet Pray.  I've added these to my wishlist and I'm waiting for the next Craftsy sale.

My Craftsy blouse

Craftsy comes very close to duplicating a real live class experience.  The only things missing are real-life people.

A Sew-aholic's Mothers' Day Weekend

So … the original Mothers' Day plan was to meet my daughter and her future Mother-in-Law in Northern Virginia where we would do wedding prep stuff.  I made the first wedding dress muslin and we planned to go to G-Street Fabrics in Falls Church, VA to look at wedding fabrics.  It would have been a great Mothers Day. That plan changed when I remembered I bought a ticket to see Motown, The Musical* in NYC on Saturday.  The bus trip included about two and a half hours to explore Manhattan and that could only mean one thing to a sew-aholic:  FABRIC SHOPPING!   I had an agenda.  I was working on the black crepe dress for my sister's 40th Birthday Bash.  The dress was looking too somber, not at all like a party dress, so  I decided to go another way.  I decided to make a skirt with the leftover black crepe (I'd bought 6 yards) and make a shiny silver satin top to wear with it and I'd buy the shiny silver satin fabric while I was in NY.  Since I was with my non-sewing cousin, I planned to visit only B & J Fabrics and Mood Fabrics.

But, there was a problem.  The chartered bus that was supposed to take us to NYC left 90 minutes late, which left very little time to drag my non-sewing cousin to fabric stores once we arrived.  Since we had less time to shop, we went only to B & J.  This was my first time there and I LOVED it!  Brightly lit and so much fabric!  But I didn't have time to browse.  (I MUST go back to that store!)  So … I rushed through B & J and made a rushed, impulsive purchase: a piece of silver/grey taffeta.  We got to our seats about 2 minutes before the curtain went up.

Silver/Grey Taffeta

It just so happened, Bryan Terrell Clark, who played Marvin Gaye in the show, said he attended the same church as the woman who organized the trip.  He came on the bus to say hello, sign autographs and take pictures.

Bryan and me

Traditionally, my daughter makes a big breakfast for me on Mothers' Day and gives me a mushy card that invariably makes me cry.   But this year, she was in VA and I was in PA.  (I still got the card and it still made me cry.)  I took a closer look at the taffeta and decided I didn't like it for a top - it had only slightly more pizzazz than the black crepe.  So I decided to spend Mothers' Day doing what I love -- shopping for fabric.  I tried to find the silver satin I originally wanted to buy either at Fleishman's Fabric, the only Fabric Row store open on Sunday, or JoMar.  I bought a piece of silver satin at JoMar, but I still wasn't totally satisfied. Since I didn't find exactly what I wanted, I ordered Silver Charmeuse  from Vogue Fabrics.

Silver Satin

But now I have about two yards of silver taffeta and a yard and a half of silver satin that I may never use.  (It might be time for a give-away!)

So, although my Mothers' Day weekend was not traditional in the Hallmark sense, it was a very enjoyable weekend.  I saw a great Broadway show; I discovered B & J Fabrics and I hugged a young, handsome and talented actor.  Not a bad Mothers' Day.



*By the way, Emilio Sosa, of Project Runway did the costumes for the show.

PR Weekend Diary

Wednesday, April 24
     I made it!  I'm in San Franciso for PR Weekend 2013!  I'm so glad I came early.  I got to see Gina, Lindsey's best friend from high school. She is my "other daughter from another mother".  I haven't seen her since graduation.  She's all grown up and a wonderful young woman.  I'm so proud of her.  She picked me up from the airport and drove me to the Marines Memorial Club and Hotel.  We talked for hours, even though I was still on east coast time and was dog tired!
   

There is no way anyone can stay in The Marines Memorial Club and Hotel and not be made aware of the sacrifice US soldiers have made.  I was on the 5th floor, which housed the Memorial Hall.  The walls were covered with plaques honoring deceased soldiers, most of whom were killed in action.  The 11th floor housed the library/reading room in which were many artifacts, including Gen. MacArthur's corn cob pipe and hat.  The resin sculpture of the bulldog mascot was so realistic looking I thought it was taxidermically preserved, a process I find a little creepy.

Thursday, April 25
     I got up early and walked the short distance to Chinatown.  When I got to the Chinatown Gate and saw the steep hill, I almost turned around. But I needed to buy a rolling bag for bringing my fabric purchases home.  Then, I went to Britex, also a short walk from the hotel.   Britex has an awe-inspiring inventory and eye-popping prices.  People warned me about the prices and when I saw the other stores in the immediate area (Neiman Marcus, Bulgari, Chanel, etc.) I knew they were right.  I bought only a piece of khaki cotton on that trip and went back to the hotel.  Later, I met up with  a group of PR People and went back to Britex for more shopping.  On that visit, I bought black crepe and a batik to match the khaki cotton.

Cotton Khaki twill and Batik

In the evening, I had dinner with Gina and then hung out at the registration table to chat with and meet other attendees.

Friday, April 26

V1260

     Today was the Sandra Betzina seminar.  She had so much  information to share, she hardly finished a sentence before she began to talk about something else.  It's a good thing I have many of her books.  The best part was the afternoon trunk show.  We got to see clothes from her Today's Fit collection up close and personal.  She was wearing a blouse from the collection that looked nothing like it's patten envelope photo/illustration.  If I'd seen only that picture, I would never have considered the pattern.  But I liked it so much on Sandra, I plan to buy the pattern tomorrow without waiting for a $3.99 sale at Jo-Ann.  Unfortunately, something I ate for lunch didn't agree with me and I didn't feel well enough to have dinner at Buco Di Beppo. I'm going to bed and pray I feel better for shopping tomorrow.

Saturday, April 27
     SERIOUS FABRIC SHOPPING TODAY!  I had three stores on my Fabric Shopping Bucket List.

1. Mood Fabrics in NYC
2. Vogue Fabrics in Chicago
3. Britex Fabrics in San Francisco

I've been to all three!  After hearing Sandra Betzina mention Stone Mountain & Daughter about 153 times, I added it to my list.  I had my own personal guide, Mary Beth, who took me, via public transportation, to Stone Mountain in Berkeley, Fabrix and Satin Moon back in San Francisco.  Stone Mountain shipped purchases if requested. I can't wait until it arrives home safely. We didn't have to pay sales tax if we had our purchases shipped.  Here is my haul (minus the Stone Mountain purchases):

From Satin Moon: Italian cotton and Indian cotton:  I forgot which was which.

Close-up of Italian or Indian cotton

From Fabrix:  Cotton/poly twill and soft knit.

Sunday, April 28

     On the plane home, I reflected on the weekend.  This time around, rather than traveling in a large group by bus, we were left to our own devices to shop.  On Friday, I felt confident that I could get around by my myself if I had to, but on Saturday, I was extremely grateful for Mary Beth, my own personal guide.   We ran into other PR shoppers at every stop, so it was almost like we were traveling en masse. 

I had two goals for the weekend:

(1) something black for my youngest sister's 40th semi-formal birthday bash (She wants everyone to wear black - don't ask me why.)  

(2) something blue for my Mother of the Bride Dress.

I got black crepe (sounds so funereal), but I didn't find anything for my MOB dress.  Oh, well. That's a 50% success rate.  Not too shabby.

I wish we had the show-and-tell post mortem after shopping.  It was a fun event in previous PR Weekends.  I hope there is a way to include it next time.

PR Weekends are always fun.  Eighty-five people who are just as obsessed with sewing as I am!  How could I not have a good time?

Next year, Austin, TX.

Thanks, Denise!

I've known my best friend Denise since kindergarden.  She decorates cakes, makes ceramics, caters and organizes events, and she is an excellent seamstress.  We learned to sew together in Home Ec in junior high school; back when there were such things as Home Ec and junior high school.  I remember looking a suit she made and being instantly inspired to improve my own sewing skills.  She seldom makes garments anymore, though.  Instead, she makes fantastic, custom designed, one-of-a kind aprons.  She made an apron for my daughter and finally, she made one for me.

Her husband has barely forgiven me for encouraging her to buy an embroidery machine, but the barbecue apron below monogrammed with W. L. J. was made for him.  She knows how much I love to sew, so my apron has a sewing theme.  And the buttons are little thimbles!   Not only did her suit inspire me to be a better sewer, but her apron might inspire me to be a better cook!

She sells her creations at various venues, but I'm trying to convince her to set up an Etsy shop.  I think she'd do very well. 

∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞

 And now, a retraction/correction.

In a past post, I complained about Burda's fashion photography. It's true, sometimes the fashion photos don't tell you much about the garments.  But there is an alternative.  Both the website and the magazine include garment photographs in addition to fashion photographs and line drawings.  I wouldn't want my complaining to scare a potential sewer away from trying BurdaSyle Magazine patterns.

A Sewer's Gotta Do What a Sewer's Gotta Do

I have not been shy about proclaiming the two things I dislike most about sewing.

1.  Sewing knits

2.  Making muslins

Recently,  I addressed my knit aversion buy purposely seeking out, buying and sewing more knits.  Now, I'm about to vanquish my other sewing demon.  I gotta to make a muslin.

I bought Sarah Veblen's fitting book,  The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting.  Why would a self-proclaimed muslin-hater buy "the ULTIMATE  reference for fitting test garments and transferring accurate adjustments to patterns"? Because my daughter got engaged and wants me to make her wedding dress! That's why!!!!

My future son-in-law is a lieutenant in the Marines and was recently deployed to the middle east (please pray for him) so the wedding won't be happening for quite a while.  In the meantime, I have plenty of time to learn to love muslins.  There are other things in my favor:

• I've made my DD's prom gowns, so I'm not a total novice to formal wear.
• She's bringing home a wedding dress that belonged to a co-worker's daughter so I can study it up close.
• In addition to buying the ultimate muslin book, I have Claire Shaeffer's Couture Techniques Workshop DVD, Claire Shaeffer's Couture Sewing Techniques, and last but not least, Susan Khalje's Bridal Couture. 

Yet, with all these resources, I'm still apprehensive.  I've been sewing for more than 40 years and I've encountered lots of techniques, including some of the techniques used in wedding gowns.  It's not so much the techniques or processes that worry me (although I AM worried; especially if she wants lace), but I've never sewn a project with such strong emotional connotations.  I'll be lucky if I don't cry all over the dress!

So, if anyone has any advice, tips, sources and resources, stimulants, sedatives or liquor, please share!

All I Wanted for Christmas

Last Christmas, my Darling Daughter surprised me with a Caribbean Cruise.  We went in October and, in spite of Superstorm Sandy, we had a wonderful cruise.  My greedier self wondered how she would top last year's gift.  Well, she did.  She wants to learn to sew and asked for a sewing machine.  The gift is just as much mine as hers.  We spent the weekend before Christmas sewing together.  What gift could be better than that?

As soon as she told me what she wanted, I ran to my trusted dealer to select a starter machine.   I was shown two options in my price range: Babylock Molly and Singer Confidence Stylist.  The two machines were exactly the same price.  I chose the Singer because it had a few more bells and whistles and gave her more room to grow if she sticks with it.

So, on the Friday and Saturday before Christmas, I taught my daughter to sew.

First, she got familiar with using the machine, including good posture.

Before:  Aching back after 20 minutes

After:  Ready to sew for hours

Her first project was a pouch, and she was quite proud.

Look, Mom!  I did it!

Our next lesson was reading a pattern, layout and cutting.

Cutting out pattern pieces

Finally, she made her first garment, a skirt, KwikSew 3765 , which, when you compare construction techniques,  was very similar to the pouch!

First garment! (Unhemmed)

She was a very good student and her attention to detail borders on obsessive.  I also bought her a book,  Sewing 101, a very good book for beginners with DVD included and I recommended she take a class at JoAnn.  I wish she lived closer so I could work with her more.  But, I had a great time teaching her and she seems willing to keep sewing.

HotPattern Giveaway!

So far, it been a hot summer in my part of the world.  I want to celebrate the hot weather with a Hot Pattern Giveaway.


Here are the patterns:

HP: 1052:  Classix Nouveau Great White Shirt

HP 1033:  Plain & Simple Fitted T Redux

HP 1120:  Classix Nouveau Primavera Dress

Here are the facts:

HP1052 Classix Nouveau Great White Shirt:  I picked this up from the pattern exchange table at PR Weekend 2011.  It's one of the first HotPatterns – back when there were three size ranges:  Slinky Girl, Glamour Girls and Curvy Girl.  This pattern is Glamour Girl (sizes 12 - 20). I've never used it, and I don't know if the former owner used it.
HP 1033 Plain & Simple Fitted T-Shirt Redux: This is only pattern of the three I actually used.  I cut away the instructions from the rest of the pattern sheet.  The instruction sheet, of course, is included. Otherwise the sheets are intact.  All sizes (6 - 26) are included.
HP1120 Classix Nouveau Primavera Dress:  This pattern has had only one owner - me.  I've never used it.  All sizes (6 - 26) are included.


Here are the rules:

1. Indicate your interest in owning these patterns by leaving a comment on this post before August 1, 2012. Being a follower isn't required, but I invite you to become one if you haven't already done so.
2. The winner gets all three patterns.
3. The winner will be chosen by random number generator.  I'll announce the winner here on the blog and ask the winner to email their mailing address to me.
4. No shipping outside the USA

The winner will be announced on Thursday, August 2, 2012.  Good luck!

The Evolution of a Sewing Room (cont.)

Chapter 2

A New Place to Sew

More room to sew

The sewing room move is done!  I patched holes with tape and spackle and did some touch-up painting.  The Salvation Army took away my daughter's bedroom furniture. I vacuumed corners that had not seen the sun in years. Yuck.  The room needs a major cosmetic re-do, including painting and carpet removal.  But in the meantime, I have a new place to sew!

At first, the curmudgeon in me wanted a "no-one-is-allowed-in-here-but-me" sewing room.  I considered getting rid of the bed, but that wasn't practical.   I still have relatives who like to visit and they need a place to sleep.   Besides, I designed and built the cutting table expressly so it would fit over a bed.  It would be a shame to deny the table its destiny.

I considered the major drawbacks of my former sewing room and addressed them. In the small sewing room, my cutting table was in a corner and only accessible from two sides.  Now I can access it from three sides.  As I'm fighting with laying out knits, the last thing I want to do is rotate the fabric or stretch over the table in order to pin or cut out a piece.  Now, everything is within reach because I can walk around to the other side of the table.  Funny how simple things like that can make such a difference.

Second, I have more storage space in a bigger closet.  As my collection of Burda magazines grew, I trembled every time I thought of getting rid of them.  Now,  I've got room for another five years worth!  And I have another bookcase in which to store fabric.  I may even acquire a stash!!!

As small and cramped as my former sewing room was, it was a functional space in which I was very comfortable. Now, my sewing space is functional AND roomy!  What more does a sewer need? 

For a guided tour, click New & Improved Sewing Space link under Pages in the sidebar or click the link in the caption above.

The Evolution of a Sewing Room

Chapter 1

Where Did It All Come From?!?!?

One of the perks of Empty Nest Syndrome is the empty nest!  When I learned my daughter accepted a job in Richmond, VA,  I toyed with the idea of moving my small sewing room into her larger bedroom, but I talked myself out of it. However, she encouraged me.  In her words, "Why shouldn't you have a bigger sewing room?"

I believe my daughter, who so generously and lovingly encouraged me to take over her bedroom, saved every toy, storybook, shoe, notebook, sneaker, trophy and stuffed animal she ever owned in the eighteen years she occupied that room.  She was a good candidate for Hoarding: Buried Alive.  It's just as much my fault as hers. She didn't buy all that crap those things herself.  Everytime she was away at camp, I threatened to go into her room with a trash bag.  But she protested and I backed down.  As she pulled crap her things out of bookcases, the closet, the dresser and piled it on the floor, I admit, I almost lost it. Then, I thought about my new, bigger sewing room and kept my mouth shut.

With visiting and socializing with friends she may not see again for a long time, it took her three days to sort through and distribute all the crap her belongings.  If I had been given the freedom to dispose of it, everything would have gone to the dump. Thankfully, my daughter believes in "Reduce, Reuse, Recycle" and she was more responsible about getting rid of the crap stuff than I would have been.

It's going to take some time until the new sewing room is just the way I want it. First, I have to make my new space habitable and functional.  Then, I have to make it mine.

To be continued ………

Corny Cliché, but True

Today really IS the first day of the rest of my life.

No, I won't be spending 8 hours a day in my sewing room but I do have a plan for my new life.

• I retired from my job, not my career. I'll continue the part-time independent contracting I've done for several years. 
• My DD is treating me to my first cruise ever.  In the Fall, when my former colleagues are settling in to another school year, I'll be settling into a deck chair on a cruise ship.
• I plan to take advantage of a local university program for Lifelong Learning which offers a variety of courses such as Introduction to Adobe Photoshop, Myth in Human History, and Quantum Mechanics for the "Spiritually Inclined" (huh?).  This program also entitles members to audit one undergraduate course per semester, if there is space.  
• I no longer need a large work wardrobe so I plan to do more quilting. Or I may tackle that coat or tailored jacket I've wanted to sew for years.
• My first BIG project will be to move my sewing room into the larger bedroom that was once occupied by my DD.  Finally, I'll have more room for more fabric and Burda Magazines.

Stress often comes with change; even a change for the better.  I'm a little nervous, but I'm looking forward to this new phase in my life.  For a number of reasons, it's the right time for me to retire.   Once I make the necessary mental adjustments, I'll be able to enjoy a more relaxed lifestyle.

My Personal PR Weekend

Hooray! She graduated!

Back when plans were being made for PR Weekend 2012, one of the options was San Francisco.  Britex Fabrics is on my Fabric Store Bucket List. Match made in heaven, right? Wrong.  My daughter's graduation from University of Virginia was the same weekend and I would have missed PR Weekend, no matter where it was held. Fortunately, a scheduling conflict made it necessary to postpone PR Weekend in San Francisco until 2013 and hold PR Weekend 2012 in New York.  Since I'd shopped in New York before, I didn't feel like I was missing out on anything by attending my only child's graduation.  (Does that sound bad?)  I managed to have my cake and eat it, too. I attended DD's graduation and had my own personal fabric shopping spree in Virginia.

First, I went to Les Fabriques, my usual stop when visiting Charlottesville.  I drove to the location and discovered an empty store front!  My heart fell.  I panicked. But then I checked online and learned Les Fabriques hadn't closed, it moved.  The new location is much bigger and more luxuriously decorated.  Here is what I picked up:

teal cotton stripe; teal stretch woven; yellow knit

I strongly suspect the teal stripe above is actually intended for quilting. But it was displayed with the teal bottom weight and matched so well! Since I am the Queen of Matchy-Matchy, I had to get it for a blouse.

It being graduation weekend, hotel rooms were scarce and overpriced.  As a result, my hotel was about 25 miles from Charlottesville in Waynesboro.  Naturally, I searched for independent fabric stores in Waynesboro and found Fabric Warehouse.  This store and Les Fabriques are polar opposites.  Les Fabriques is located in an upscale shopping plaza. Fabric Warehouse is located in a low rent strip mall which translates to lower prices.  I picked up these two pieces for less than $25.00:

magenta twill and cotton check

The check can also be worn with the teal shown above.  The Queen of Matchy-Matchy is pleased!

So, I was not able to join the PR Weekend fun in New York City.  But I was able to score nice fabrics in my own personal PR Weekend.

But I Never Win Anything!

On a recent morning, I found this in my email inbox:

Congratulations!  You are one of our five March Lucky Threads Insiders.  Each month we select members to receive a prize and our March prize is our 2011 Threads Magazine Archive.  You can see more information on the Archive here -  http://store.threadsmagazine.com/2011-threads-magazine-archive-031029.html.  The DVD should ship out tomorrow and you should receive it in the next few days.  Congratulations and thank you for being a Threads Insider!

---------------
Missy Robinson Senior Marketing Manager
Fine Cooking

Fine Homebuilding

Fine Woodworking

Fine Gardening
Threads

---------------

It's my nature to be a little suspicious. Was it safe to click the link? Was my computer being infected with some horrible virus?  Yes, I paid for a Threads Insider subscription, but I never win anything!

A few days later, this arrived:

My luck has changed!  Maybe I'll buy a Mega Millions lottery ticket!  Maybe I'll meet Idris Elba in the supermarket and he'll insist on taking me off to Brazil for a wild, guilt-free, three-day weekend!  And when we get back, I'll find I won the lottery!

Or maybe I should just count my blessings and watch the DVD.

Finished: BSM 10-2011-137 & BSM 02-10-137

See sidebar for PR Review or
 click here: Pants   Blouse 

Bringing this outfit to fruition was like a birthing a 12 pound baby after a 36 hour labor.  The biggest obstacle was my OCD about matching fabrics.  Then I took a little quilting detour in the middle of the project.  But, it's finished.

Pants:  BSM 10-11-137

I don't remember where I bought the fabric for the pants, but if I'd known it would be so hard to match, I would have left it in the store.  The fabric is woven with dark olive green and brown threads (and even a little black) so it doesn't know if it wants to be green or brown.  If I chose brown as a coordinating fabric, the fabric looked green and vice versa.  I took the swatch to three different fabric stores hoping to find a coordinating fabric for a blouse.  I'm not entirely happy with my final choice but I just refused to worry about it anymore.  Lesson learned:  Get over this unhealthy "fabrics have to match" obsession!

I added a partial lining to the front of the pants.  This technique was used on another Burda pants pattern I made recently and I like the results.  I traced the pants front, including the hip yoke section, to just below the knee.  After the pockets were finished, I basted the lining to the pants front and treated the two layers as one.  Technically, the technique I used is underlining, not lining.

From Threads website:

Underlining vs. lining
Let's clear up one point first: lining and underlining a garment are two different procedures, and depending on their purpose, one or both can be used in a single piece of clothing. Usually cut from a slippery fabric, lining is attached only at the garment's waistband or neck, and sometimes its hem -- otherwise, it hangs free in the garment. It's generally used to give a finished look to the inside of the garment, prevent seams from raveling, reduce wrinkling, help conceal some figure faults, and make a garment easier to slip on and off.

Underlining, on the other hand, is cut from the same pattern pieces as the fashion fabric and is attached before construction begins. Then, as the garment is constructed, the underlining and fashion fabric are handled as a single unit. Most often, underlining is cut from fine cotton batiste, light- to medium-weight cotton broadcloth, or silk organza. But a variety of other materials can also be used to underline a fashion fabric.

Blouse:  BSM 02-10-137 

I bought three different pieces of fabric to make a top for the pants.  The more I worked with the first piece, a green silk, the less I liked it with the pants fabric.  It wasn't the right green.  So I set it aside, hoping it wouldn't morph into a UFO, and I ordered a tan knit. I didn't like that either.  I finally found a dark olive peachskin at JoAnn Fabrics & Crafts.

The same main pattern pieces are used for the blouse and a dress.  The blouse instructions say to add 5/8" seam allowances and the dress instructions specify a 3/8" seam allowance.  Because the blouse front is placed on the fold, it is impossible to add 5/8" seam allowance to the front placket area – that would eliminate the placket opening. There has to be a 3/8" seam allowance on the placket opening and on the front band.  There is no mention of that in the seam allowance instructions.  Fortunately, I remembered this problem from the first time I sewed this pattern.  It's not enough to thoroughly read Burda's instructions for the garment I'm sewing.  Now, I have to read the instructions for all of the garments that use the same pieces.  Sheesh.

For some unknown reason, I wanted to make and use piping.  This blouse called for pleated trim around the placket and cuffs.  I substituted the piping.  I've never been overly successful making bias strips by the sew-a-twisted-tube method.  I found an easier method that requires folding a square or rectangle of fabric.  Another little tip:  The Bernina bulky overlock foot #12 is recommended for making piping.  However, my piping was much thinner than the channel in the foot so the foot wasn't securely holding the filler cord in position.  I used the three-groove pintuck foot #30 instead and it worked beautifully.

I used polyester peachskin to make this blouse. I know I vowed never to sew polyester again, but promises are made to be broken, right?  I was more concerned about the color than anything else.

Let There Be Light!

One month ago, if anyone asked me if I had enough light in my sewing room, I would have said "Yes, of course".  And I would have been wrong.

I used to have one lamp clamped to a bookcase that was used to light either the cutting table or the ironing board.  I also had a floor lamp that stood between the sewing machine and serger and I shifted that lamp between machines as needed.  I recently bought two separate lamps for the cutting area and ironing board. The arrangement worked so well I applied the same logic to the sewing area.   I bought two more lamps, one for the serger and one for the sewing machine, and mounted them on the wall so they directly lit the feed dogs.  Previously, when the floor lamp was positioned for the serger, the light source was on the right and a shadow was cast directly on the sewing area.  This new arrangement eliminated that problem shadow.

The difference was not as striking on the sewing machine. Apparently, Bernina's CFL sewing light is more efficient that Baby Lock's incandescent bulb.
 

I encourage every sewer to critically examine the lighting in their sewing space.  Then run, don't walk and buy more light.  Your eyes will thank you!

Finished: BWOF 11-2007-132A and BSM 08-200-11-138

The Outfit

See sidebar or click for review:  Skirt  Blouse

It seems like a long time since I've sewn a coordinating top and bottom.  I haven't been able to find coordinating pieces of fabrics when shopping.  The colors are quite a bit brighter than I'm used to wearing.  I hope I have the guts to wear it.

The Skirt:  BWOF 11-2007-132A

I like this skirt a lot, but it highlights a problem I'm having with Burda Magazine.  This skirt came from a 2007 issue – when it was called Burda World of Fashion.   I really don't have the space to store old Burdas. But I'm still finding things I want to make in older issues so I don't want to get rid of them either.  I've already given away 2005 and 2006 and I'm afraid to get rid of any more.  This issue was in the next batch to be disposed of.  How am I supposed declutter when my clutter is still useful?  I guess I'd better find some way to store them.

I'm trying to incorporate techniques into my sewing that increase the value of my garments.  Mismatched yoke seams at the zipper scream "home made" not "custom made".   This technique has its basis in Claire Shaeffer's "keying a zipper" technique.

I sewed one side of the zipper.  Then I closed the zipper and, on the unsewn side of the zipper, marked with basting the point where the zipper crossed the seam.

I matched the basting to the seam on the other side before sewing that side of the zipper.

When the other side was sewn, the seams matched nearly perfectly.

It was really just that easy!  I don't know why I never used this technique before.


The Blouse:  BSM 08-2011-138

Leave it to Burda to make things difficult.  Rather than faced or turned-under slits, Burda has bound slits!  Didn't I just say, not three or four paragraphs ago, I wanted to increase the value of my sewn garments?  Any old pattern company can have faced or turned-under slits.  Even though I seriously considered simplifying the slits, I went ahead and bound them the way Burda said I should.

This blouse has lots of gathering.  I used my new favorite method – pulling up the bobbin thread, pulling out enough bobbin and needle thread to cover the length of the gathered area and zigzagging over the threads.  This makes gathering easier because the threads are stable and secure.  I would have preferred more match points for attaching the neckband to the neckline.

If I'd made a muslin, I would have seen the sleeve bands could have been a little shorter so they fit tighter around my arm.  Oh, well.  Maybe next time.

Changes in the Sewing Room

Chapter One:  Unplugged

I didn't know any better.  I thought I didn't need WiFi at home.  Being chained to my desktop computer didn't bother me.  I believed my only choice was to go through my cable provider if I wanted a wireless connection, and going through my cable provider would mean a higher monthly bill, right?  Who needed that?

I learned from my best friend, Denise and her son, Alex, I could buy a wireless router and set up WiFi in my home without the assistance of my cable provider.  Who knew?  So, that's what I did.   And here is how all this applies to my sewing.  While gathering the sleeves on a recent project, I remembered a technique for gathering I saw on "Sewing on Nancy".  I got my laptop (actually, my employer's laptop), went to Sewing with Nancy online and watched the segment right at my sewing machine!  Don'cha just love technology?    Unfortunately, I'll have to turn in my laptop at the end of the school year.  (Apparently, when you retire, the school district expects you to give back all of their stuff.)  I can't go back to being chained to my desktop.  But, as they say, "It's all good!"  With WiFi, I can now use my iPod Touch as something more than an expensive address book. I've been wanting an iPad for a long time and now I have even more reason to buy it!  It will be so easy and so much fun to watch sewing videos on my iPad right in my sewing room.


Chapter Two:  Making Concessions for Old Age

Old Woman Seated Sewing
Johannes van der Aack

Up until today, I've refused to accept I'm getting older.  True, in the morning it takes several more minutes before I can stand upright, but I blamed my mattress.  And my short term memory is ………uh……  I forgot the word I was going to use here.  But now, it's affecting my sewing and I can't ignore it any longer.

I used to store my patterns in a big wooden box on the bottom shelf of the bookcase. Having the visually heavy box on the bottom of the bookcase just looked better. But removing the box to access patterns was becoming more and more difficult.  I delayed putting patterns away to avoid lifting the box and carrying it to the cutting table, which was only about two steps away.  The only other option was to pull out the box and sit on the floor to access the patterns.  That presented a different problem – getting up!

I stopped fooling myself and moved the pattern drawer to a higher shelf.  I don't have to bend all the way down to the floor, lift the heavy drawer and carry it to the table.  Now, the process involves a smaller, less painful dip of the knees.  The maneuver is easier on my back, but harder on my ego.  I think I'd better start now thinking of ways to change things to accommodate the old woman who is catching up to me.


Chapter Three:  IKEA in the Sewing Room

IKEA is a wonderful place.  If they sold fabric, they'd be perfect.  (Oh wait … they DO sell fabric!)  I needed to replace the lamp that was mounted on my bookcase and used to light either the cutting table or the ironing board.  I went to IKEA and found the Kvart lamp.  (I just love those unpronounceable Swedish names!) The price was so reasonable, I bought two!   And, I like the look of two lamps snaking from the bookshelf in different directions.  It looks so …… IKEA!  After about two weeks of using the lamps, I decided to see if IKEA had a Kvart floor lamp for the sewing machine area .  They did!  Now each sewing task area has its own lamp!  And what sewing room can call itself a sewing room without a jar of buttons.  The Burken jar is perfect for buttons.  I bought two of those, too!  I wish everyone had an IKEA nearby.