The Search is Over

For most of my life, I have been searching for two things.  (Actually, I've been searching for a lot more than two things, but this blog is about sewing.)

1. marking tool that washes out 
2. iron without auto shut-off

I think I might have found my two holy grails.  

The Clover Pen Style Chaco Liner may just be the marking tool I've been looking for.  The yellow color shows up on both dark and light colored fabrics.  The powdered chalk stays on the surface of the fabric and brushes away easily. There are other chalk wheels available, but I like that this marker can be held like a pen. I found the other chalk markers are a little awkward to hold.  I know this tool isn't new, but I never tried it.  Now that I have, I love using it.

NB:  The timer pictured is not the heavy duty timer I actually use

The Chaco Pen is fun, but I was more excited about finding an iron without auto shut-off.  Like many sewers, I got annoyed when my iron shut off after eight minutes.  I spent lots of money on the Oliso Pro iron because it shut off after 30 minutes. That was a major fail.  It took several months before I would even consider another expensive iron.  Finally, I tried the Reliable Digital Velocity V100.  This iron has a feature that allows me to override the 8 minute auto shut-off.  Fingers crossed, so far it's been great.  The Oliso iron stayed on for 30 minutes.  The Reliable iron stays on forever, which could be a problem if a person tends to forget to unplug or turn off the iron (like me).  So I devised a system to override the override.  I keep the iron plugged in to a heavy duty timer.  When I start to sew, I set the timer for the amount of time I expect to sew and plug it into the outlet.  Then, I enable the iron's override feature.  If I forget to unplug the iron when I finish sewing, the timer will shut the iron off.  Of course, I'm trying to get into the habit of unplugging the iron, but this is a good back up plan.  I was cautioned that the 1800 watt iron may be too much for the timer to handle, but I contacted the timer manufacturer and was told the heavy duty timer could handle the iron.  Use this tip at your own risk. 

If I Thought of it ………

……why didn't the Bernina engineers think of it?

Recently, I bought a straight stitch plate for my sewing machine.  I can imagine sitting down to the machine, switching to a utility stitch,  and ………wait for it ………… BAM!  The needle hits the the plate, breaks and scares me out of 6 months of life.  And let's not even think of the broken needle point flying toward my eyes.  As I sit at the machine, there is no easy way to tell which plate is in the machine by simply looking.

It's very easy to tell the plates apart when they are not in the machine.

Here's an idea:  Put the bright red warning decal on the FRONT of the plate when it can be seen!   Sure, I can mark the front of the plate with a permanent marker or a stick-on dot, but shouldn't someone at Bernina have thought of that?   

NB: I broke a needle before I even had a chance to edit and put up this post!!!

An Obsessive Sewer Obsesses About Thread

Most basic books on sergers advise against trying to match looper thread to the fabric.  A more economical approach, these books say, is to buy cones of neutral colors that can blend with, rather than match the fabric.  An Obsessive Sewer like me cringes at such a suggestion.   Matching thread is the latest obsession I've chosen to indulge.

It started with the Gutermann thread sale at Atlanta Thread Supply.  When sewing woven fabrics, in addition to the conventional machine, I use the five thread stitch on my serger:  two-thread chain stitch + three-thread overlock.  I thought the 1100 yard spools (sale price - $1.85) would be a perfect way to buy matching thread to be used for the overlock stitch.   I'd have over 700 colors from which to choose.    I downloaded the color chart from the ATS site, but I didn't trust it.  The colors changed from monitor to printer and neither matched the color chart printed in the catalog.  So, I spent $18 on the Real Thread Gutermann Color Chart.  My plan was to use the Real Thread chart to select matching thread to be used for the overlock stitch and get thread for the chain stitch and conventional machine by shopping my thread stash or buying it from JoAnn.  I'd have five spools that matched the fabric and each other perfectly.

I went to JoAnn and bought regular spools of Gutermann for my next project.  When I got home, I compared the thread I'd just bought with the samples on the chart.  The label on the spool said #639, but it did not match the sample #639 from the chart on which I'd just spent $18.  I started to get nervous.  Using the chart,  I'd just selected and ordered eighteen spools (for my next several projects) and spent over $30.  What if none of the thread matched the fabrics?   I had no choice but to wait for the thread to arrive from ATS.  It was an obsessive sewer's nightmare.

I needn't have worried.  The threads I ordered from ATS matched the colors on the chart, and therefore the fabric.  The threads I bought at JoAnn did not match the chart, but more importantly, they matched the fabric.  I can't explain why the thread I bought at JoAnn's did not match the samples on the color chart.  Apparently the numbering systems are not the same.  But all of the spools  matched the fabric and my obsessive soul was happy.

Now, how would I store all of this fantastic matching thread?  The answer was in my supermarket.  I bought small square snack storage containers that are the perfect size for keeping three matching spools together among the cones of thread in a large bin. 

Now, if I could only convince ATS to have the 1100 yd spools permanently on sale, life would be perfect!

Finished: BWOF 03-07-129 and Cutting Table

Blouse:  BWOF 03-07-129

This is another TNT blouse.  A year ago, I didn't have any pattern I considered a TNT.  Now I have at least three.

I had another opportunity to use Kenneth King's  curved seam technique.  I love this technique. I also used the collar technique demonstrated on the Threads Insider Techniques DVD.  I love that technique, too.  Since I've made this blouse twice before, the blouse construction was straightforward.  I truly see the advantage of a TNT pattern.  Now, I am a believer.  The fabric is a linen/poly blend (bought during Philly PR Weekend) with the look of linen but none of the tendency to wrinkle. The only alteration I made was to lengthen the blouse.  Currently, this is an old maid blouse – I didn't make pants to wear with it.  I have enough black or tan pants to wear with this blouse.

Cutting Table
While my DD was home, I had to take down my cutting table for one night to accommodate an overnight guest.   Since DD was recovering from surgery, she couldn't help with the lifting the table requires.  After DD and guest left,  I struggled to put the table back together all by myself and I realized I had to make some changes.  I put the problem in the "To Be Solved" lobe of my brain and waited for inspiration.  The solution came in a flash!

Changing the leg assembly from this:

to this:

made it possible to assemble the legs independently of the table top, position them over the bed and finally attach the table top.  The task is still unwieldy, but I can do it by myself!

The Blouse, The Skirt and The Table

I'm so glad I used red for this outfit.  The color keeps the outfit from being too matronly.   I used a nice breathable cotton for the blouse and linen for the skirt.  It will be perfect for summer Sundays in church.

The Blouse:  BWOF 04-06-126
I've made this blouse twice in three weeks and there isn't much more to say about it. After reading Kenneth King's article on treacherous curves on the Threads website,  I applied the techniques to the curved seams on the collar and collar stand.  The method made joining the curves much easier.  After I saw King's article, I checked a few of my sewing books and found the same information there.  I really need to spend more time with my sewing books.  I'm missing  lots of useful information.

The Skirt:  BWOF 09-06-135
The skirt is a wardrobe staple - a six gore skirt.  The recommended fabric was wool but it worked well in linen.   The instructions called for a lining and I included one in my linen version so I wouldn't have to wear a slip. (They are so uncomfortable in the summer!)  The last time I lined a skirt, I somehow got the zipper opening on the wrong side and I had to cut another lining. This time I marked the front and back with chalk and double checked the position before sewing in the lining.  This is a classic skirt and I don't know why I took me almost four years to make it.  It is destined to become a TNT pattern.


The Table
My next sewing project doesn't involve fabric.   I've been very happy with the cutting table I designed and built.   I designed the table to straddle the bed in the sewing room and to be disassembled when the bed was needed for a guest.  My design had a major flaw:   taking the table down and putting it back up was a big headache.  It is difficult even with two people.   I came up with an alternative design and I'll be working on another prototype.  For the next few days, I will be working with wood at the same time I'm working with fabric.  Hopefully, I'll have a new and improved cutting table by the time I finish the blouse I'll be sewing.

Finished: Top BWOF 05-05-139 and Shorts Burda 8087

After much unnecessary agonizing, I decided to make the BWOF top rather than the Kwik Sew top.  Connie said it best.  The Kwik Sew top "yells scrub nurse" and that wasn't the look I was going for. : ) This outfit should be the end of my casual summer sewing.  It's time to get back to sewing my work wardrobe.

Top BWOF 05-05-139

Pattern Description:
Short sleeved tunic with darts and front and back princess seams

Pattern Sizing: European Plus size 46 - 52

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes and I was glad. I used a large scale print and I wasn't sure if that was the best choice. The pattern photo showed a large scale print.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. I hardly needed them. The construction couldn't have been more straightforward.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I wanted a simple design that wouldn't clash with the large scale print fabric.  I was concerned about interrupting the print with seams and darts.  I needn't have worried.  I can barely see the princess seams and darts in this blouse.

Fabric Used: A nice drapey challis I named "Indigo Batik"

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
The original pattern was tunic length. I shortened it to blouse length.

Conclusion:
I'm glad I finally made this blouse. It's I simple design that can be worn in a variety of ways.



Shorts Burda 8087

Pattern Description:
Typical fly front pants in two lengths.

Pattern Sizing:
The envelope includes sizes 10 to 24 (European 36 - 50)

Were the instructions easy to follow?
This pattern had no surprises so the instructions are hardly necessary.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I wanted a simple pattern for shorts and this pattern fit the bill nicely.

Fabric Used:
A loose weave linen bought specifically to coordinate with the Indigo Batik.  The weave was so loose, it was practically coming apart in my hands.   I serged all of the edges to prevent raveling.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
The shorts are shown at a length I really didn't care for, below the knee, so I chopped off about 6 inches.

Conclusion: 
This pattern will be my TNT for shorts.  I haven't made the long version, but I'm sure I will like them also.

– • – • – • – • – • – • – • – • – • – •

$25 and worth every penny

I learn a lot from OSBs (Online Sewing Buddies).  For example, I first learned about this pincushion from Ann of Gorgeous Things.  When I read about the pincushion on Ann's blog, I immediately went to Susan Khalje's store to take a look.  I don't mind admitting, at first I couldn't see spending $25 on a pincushion.    I mean, what could it do other than hold pins?  Then Gwen of All My Seams recommended it, too.  I asked her what made this pincushion so special and she told me how comfortable it was and told me, "you only live once"!  I couldn't argue with that, so I bought one!

Both women were right!  This is a great pincushion. It's so lightweight, I forget I'm wearing it.  It doesn't slide all around my wrist.  It's easier to pull pins out than to pry them from the magnetic surface of a Grabbit or magnetic wrist pincushion.  It really is possible to love a pincushion!  Yes, $25 is too much to spend on a pin cushion, but what good is a hobby if I can't splurge on it occasionally. 

The next time an OSB (or even a sewing muggle) is excited about anything, I won't so much as raise an eyebrow. I'll investigate the situation and probably follow suit.

What Makes a Hem Gauge Worth $15?

Let me start by saying the 5-in-1 Sliding Gauge by Nancy Zieman is grossly overpriced. According to the package, this notion has five uses:

1. Spacing and marking buttonholes:
2. Seam Allowance Gauge
3. Hem Gauge
4. Circle compass
5. “T” Gauge

Click to enlarge and see details

The 5-in-1 Sliding gauge functions like most other seam/hem gauges, only better. Both the "T" top and the movable ruler are extra long allowing you to make marks anywhere along it's length. That comes in handy when drawing guidelines for buttonholes. In addition, the gauge locks in place and does not move until you press the button. There is a slot down the center so you can mark ¼" seam allowances and the gauge itself is 5/8 " wide. The slot opening is 1/8" wide. The clear plastic circle acts as a hub and the gauge rotates around it for drawing circles.

The design is quite clever and Nancy Zieman has to get her cut, but why spend $15 on a hem gauge? Because, I'm a sucker for sewing gadgets, that's why. This really proves it. And I bought this on a day when I had a few extra dollars no sales resistance. I've managed to sew for more than 30 years without this little tool. But now that I have it, I'm sure I'll use it quite frequently, so in that way, it's worth every penny.

∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞

PS: Click here to see a video demonstrating the many uses of this tool.

Embellishment Experiment: Couching to Replace Embroidery

My current project offered a small opportunity for embellishment on the in-seam hip pockets. This opportunity was just right for me, since my embellishment experience is limited to machine appliqué back in the 90s. The pattern, BWOF 03-07-130, called for embroidered linen on the pocket bands. If embroidered linen wasn't available, Burda provided a motif in case a brave and talented sewer wanted to do the embroidering herself. I decided to experiment with couching instead.

HYPOTHESIS
Couching can replace embroidery as a subtle embellishment.

MATERIALS

1. soutache trim
2. braiding foot
3. tear-away stabilizer
4. stencil
   

PROCEDURE
I'm not very good at drawing freehand, so I used a quilting stencil for my design. These stencils are inexpensive and readily available. I traced the design onto fabric that was larger than the pattern piece for the pocket band and pinned the fabric to tear-away stabilizer to reduce the amount the fabric drew up.

It is possible to couch without a specialized foot, but the right foot made the job easier. The foot had a notch etched into the front and I used this notch to follow the drawn placement lines. It wasn't quite as helpful in the tight curves, however. Bernina's free hand system and needle-stop-down feature made maneuvering around the tight curves easier. I sewed a few stitches, raised the presser foot using the FHS, and pivoted the fabric, keeping the needle down. The braiding foot kept the soutache directly under the needle.I chose to use clear monofilament thread, although I could have used matching thread or decorative thread. If the embellishment were in a position more prominent than the hip pocket, I might have chosen something a little flashier.Once the couching was completed, I used the pattern piece to center the couching on the pocket band before cutting it out. Then I sewed the pocket band into the pants front according to BWOF's directions.
RESULTS
Couching is an easy embellishment technique that can be made as simple or elaborate as needed. As in all projects, having the right tools makes the difference. Couching worked well in this project as a substitute for embroidery.

CONCLUSION
I wonder if Summerset started this way!

Fons & Porter Mechanical Fabric Pencil

For most of my adult life, I have been perpetually searching for two items that are essential to my existence :

1. a purse that is both functional and stylish
   
2. a truly erasable fabric marking tool.
   

I haven't been so lucky with the purse. But, the Fons and Porter Mechanical Fabric Pencil just may be the marking tool I've been looking for.

Fons & Porter notions are marketed as quilting tools, but garment sewers need to mark fabrics, too! For me, the problem with most marking pencils is the chalky, waxy lead that breaks too easily when sharpened to a fine point. I re-sharpen, only to have it break again. This mechanical pencil has .9mm white leads that make a very fine line. If the lead breaks, simply advance the lead. According to the package, the "strong ceramic 0.9mm white lead is specially formulated for fabric and made from water soluble dyes." 10 white leads are included and graphite refill leads are available separately. The pencil includes an eraser (refill erasers are also available).

I bought the pencil at Jo-Ann. It's also available at several online sources, including the Fons & Porter Website. This pencil costs $12.00 and that is a lot to spend on a marking pencil. But, I'm a sucker for sewing paraphernalia. It does what I want it to do and, for that reason, it's worth the money. However, I recommend waiting for a sale or using Jo-Ann's 40% off coupon.

So far, this pencil is working for me, but as always, I recommend the user test first. I tested this pencil thoroughly and it performed quite well. I tried erasing the line with the eraser provided, using water to wash it out, even ironing over it and then washing it out with plain water. The white line came out in all conditions. The graphite line required mild soap and water, so I imagine it will come out when laundered. This may not be the perfect marking tool, but I think comes pretty darn close.

_______________

Click to learn more about my search

Marking Tools

Once, I ruined a blouse because the lines I made to guide decorative stitching did not wash out. I used colored chalk and a holder for that catastrophe. Ever since, I have been on a quest for the perfect marking tool. Air and water soluable markers make nice clear marks, but for some unknown reason, mine dry out rather quickly. Even though I'm careful to replace the cap, I've seldom had one that lasted more than two or three months. Chalk wheels are good, but it's hard to make small, precise marks with a wheel. Good old tracing paper and tracing wheel are fine for marks on the inside of garments - just in case the paper is wax-based and won't come out if you iron over the marks. And, I still have nightmares about Cidell's experience with orange wax chalk.

I read a tip about using Crayola erasable colored pencils to mark fabric and a fabric eraser to remove the marks. I've been using them quite successfully for several months. (NB Do not use the Twistables - the eraser makes a darker mark than the pencil. What a mess!) I like the ease and maneuverability of using a felt tip marker on fabric. Even though I was happy using erasable colored pencils, I tried washable markers. The marks were bold and visible, but were they truly washable?

I conducted a little experiment (on a day when I had too much time on my hands). I used a piece of gray cotton broadcloth and marked with the washable markers and erasable colored pencils. It was much easier to write with the markers - they glided over the fabric like a dream – just like writing on paper. The pencils dragged and skipped on the fabric causing gaps.

Then, I washed the cloth by hand using bar soap. The erasable colored pencil washed out almost completely. If you look carefully (click to enlarge), you can see traces of the purple marker still on the cloth. (I used a regular colored pencil to label the samples.)

The results of my experiment were not new or earth-shattering. Both the erasable pencil and the washable marker washed out without special laundering. My quest taught me there is no perfect marking tool. It's always best to test first. If I'm unsure about using any kind of marking tool, I use thread tracing.

More than a notion

My nephew recently opened a barber shop. He wants custom-made smocks with logos for his favorite teams: the Lakers and the Raiders. I found the fabric with the help of the PR message board. The problem is my nephew is a big guy - 4 x at least. I thought it was difficult finding patterns for plus-size women. It’s even harder finding patterns for plus-sized men! I recently bought two books on pattern making. But he lives in central New York State and I live in southeastern Pennsylvania so measuring for a custom patten isn’t possible. I decided to use one of his smocks to make a pattern. That’s a good thing because that means I get to buy more sewing stuff! I ordered Patterns from Finished Clothes by Tracy Doyle (after checking it out of the public library.) I ordered a needle point tracing wheel. I bought a 24” x 48” sheet of cork as Doyle recommended. The process doesn’t look too difficult. As a matter of fact, I can’t wait to start.


About the aforementioned needle point tracing wheel -- I called a few tailor supply stores in Philadelphia. I was quoted prices from $1.60 to over $100! That’s right -- OVER ONE HUNDRED DOLLARS. I believe you get what you pay for, but a $100 needle point tracing wheel? Pul-leeeze! What features could a tracing wheel possibly have to justify a price of $100. Apparently, there is a lot I don’t know about needle point tracing wheels. I hope the sales person wasn’t wearing his glasses and read the price wrong.

Update: 5/10/07
I had to go into Philadelphia today. I went to the store on Fabric Row that quoted $100 for a tracing wheel and asked to see the tracing wheel. Turns out, the owner thought I was asking for a "needle board" not a needle point tracing wheel. He also said it was very busy when I called and he apologized profusely! That makes more sense than my "not wearing his glasses" theory.