Friday, May 15, 2009

Vogue 7903 Muslins: Before & After

This is the first muslin of the first Vogue Pattern I've made in I-don't-know-how-many years. This is straight out of the envelope - no pattern adjustments at all. I saw the following issues:
  • The blouse is too short. It will be easy to add about two inches to to bottom.
  • The top points of the waist darts are too high. Back when I had a waist, I was slightly high-waisted. The darts are in the general area of where my waist used to be. My breasts dropped at about the same time my waist disappeared, so I'll have to lower the top dart points. I was prepared to eliminate a waist dart if I needed more room, but (Thank you, sewing gods) it wasn't necessary. My new BFF Sandra Betzina promised "increased girth" around the waist and she delivered.
  • There is too much room in the bust area. I like the shoulder fit, but the bust circumference could be decreased. Imagine that. Me. Decreasing the bust (or any) circumference.
I posted the before picture in the Critiques thread at Stitcher's Guild and most people saw the same issues.

Now, this is more like it! I added two inches to the bottom. I like the hemline where it is, so I'll use my rotary cutter guide arm to add a hem allowance when I cut out. I lowered the top points of all of the waist darts by 3/4". I used my favorite method of fitting patterns and pivoted 3 inches out of the bust circumference. After the changes, the blouse looks more like the picture in my mind.

I'm glad I made the muslin first, but I'm not used to so many fit issues that need attention. I can make BWOFs practically "straight out of the envelope". I haven't decided if this experience will keep me away from future Today's Fit patterns. I liked the challenge of identifying fit issues and problem-solving to fix them. But I don't think I'd like a steady diet of it. Now, on to the pants.

21 comments:

  1. wow, that's like night & day difference. the second version looks really good!

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  2. I can see a noticeable difference in the "after." I don't have the patience to do all of that. I personally would probably do patterns that I can do straight out of the envelope. Of course, I need to streamline things as much as I can and choose the fastest route if I am ever to accomplish anything since my sewing time is limited with a teenager to run around, a baby and two other small children.

    www.sewingwithtrudy.blogspot.com

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  3. Wow? You really worked wonders on this blouse. It is pretty and the after picture truly looks like a nicer fit. I don't have a waist, either nor do I like short tops.
    :-)

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  4. This is going to be the perfect crisp white blouse. I admire your dedication in sewing staples, and for real life. I really ought to try that!

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  5. I'm really liking this blouse. The after is definantly a better fit. You sure nailed this one, great job! Can't wait to see the blouse & pants together.

    BTW- I nominated you for the "Attitude of Gratitude Award" on my blog.

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  6. The second muslin is really nice. I'm glad you know your BWOF sizing 'cause I still can't figure out where I fall.

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  7. This is very flattering. You may not have a waist anymore, but this lends the illusion of one. As for fit, you're going to have more to fit in something that is fitted, and this is more fitted than most of the blouses I see you make. I like this a lot. Darn, I just made a run to Joann's for the Vogue sale, and I forgot to get this pattern!

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  8. I see this in all of the blouses that you sew, there is pulling at the top button. Perhaps you need some more room in the upper chest. Or, it's the way you stand for pictures!

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  9. I like the second one. It will make a very cute blouse. It's such a classic style that you could make several and no one would ever suspect that you used the same pattern each time.

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  10. Great change. The second one really works.

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  11. Good for you for having the patience to make a muslin first. It looks like the effort really paid off!

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  12. I like the look of this blouse.
    You did a great job fitting it.

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  13. Wow, that is a difference, the second one looks great. You just proved the value of the muslin.

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  14. Great job fitting the muslin !

    Love to sew..but hate to mess with the patterns....but have to nearly every time...barely 5' tall and "age gravity" have taken their toll, LOL!

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  15. Trust me, that wasn't a lot of alterations at all and they really paid off for a great pattern which fits and flatters. I can't wait to see the final verison.

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  16. I need to make a note on that pattern to lengthen this blouse and lower the top of the front darts. I am short but the 8151 muslin I did of the Betzina tee was shorter than I liked so I am betting this one will be also. I know already from what you said the way gravity has taken things south those darts on this one will be too high on me as well. The second version looks great-should be a really nice blouse for you. I want to make this pattern for the warm weather. Thanks for your help.mssewcrazy

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  17. Major improvements! What a difference.

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  18. I understannd about the fit issues but part of the journey is learning how those issues affect the construction of future garments and applying them in your next garments. It is very easy to sew straight from the pattern, but is it challenging? Does it cause you to look at garments in a different manner? Does it alter the way you look at the construction process?

    Just offering a different view point...

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  19. Hi - Can you point me to a web tutorial, or book, that explains how to pivot circumference out of the bust area? Reading what you (and the others) do with patterns and fitting simply amazes me. Thanks - it's good, really.

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  20. TE -

    I use Nancy Zieman's Fitting Finesse or Pattern Fitting with confidence. The latter is an updated version of the former. Check Amazon for the books.

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