Finished: Vogue 7903 & 2913

My Grand Today's Fit Experiment is over and I consider it a success.

V 7903 - Blouse:
It's been years since I've made a Big 4 pattern for myself. I chose this pattern as my re-entry into Big 4 because Today's Fit patterns are based on a new and different set of standard measurements.

Pattern Description:
From the pattern envelope: "Semi-fitted shirt (fitted through the waist) has collar and collar band, front facing or self-lined front, and long or above elbow sleeves with buttoned or turn back cuffs."

Pattern Sizing:
Today's Fit patterns go from Size A - 32" bust to Size J - 55" bust.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Whether the blouse looked like photo/drawing on the envelope is apparently up to each sewer. This blouse is described as "semi-fitted" and I consider my blouse to be "semi-fitted". I searched PR for reviews of this blouse and it's apparent "semi-fitted" means different things to different people. Some people preferred a looser fit and other a more fitted silhouette.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I liked the "teaching" nature of Today's Fit instructions. More information is included than simply how to put the blouse together. There is information on fitting and different construction options are presented, i.e. fully lined front v. front facing. Betzina's sewing instructions recommend a French seam. I can't remember ever using a French seam in a garment, and I seriously considered using one in this blouse. I practiced making French seams so I would know how much to sew the first time, how much to trim, and how much to sew the second time. After several practice seams, I wasn't confident that my final stitching was actually 5/8" away from the original cutting line. So, I ended up not using the French seam. French seams would have worked nicely in this soft cotton fabric. The instructions included the Islander method of sewing the collar and collar band. In this method the collar and neck area are rolled into the band. This method was new to me but I was able to do it using the instructions provided without consulting another source.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Most Today's Fit patterns are not my taste. This shirt was one of the more classic, conservative designs. I liked the fit of the waist area. I was prepared to eliminate darts to get the room I needed around my belly. But, that wasn't necessary.

Fabric Used:
I used a 100% cotton shirting. I really like sewing with natural fibers. The cotton is so soft and has a wonderful hand.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
A muslin told me to lengthen the blouse and remove some ease from the bust area. I used Pivot and Slide method to decrease the bust circumference. I liked the turned up cuff on the short sleeve, but I just didn't want to include it. The cut-out notch in the collar (view C & D) was intended to mirror the cut-out notch in the sleeve cuff. Since I didn't include the cuff, I also switched the collars and used the un-notched collar from view A.

Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I would recommend this blouse. It's a classic style.

Conclusion:
I essentially gave up Big 4 patterns a few years ago and I used this pattern to give them another chance. This Today's Fit pattern still had lots of ease, which is one of the reasons I gave up Big 4 patterns. The pattern adjustments I made were relatively easy, but still more than I wanted to make.

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V 2913 - Pants
Since I made a Today's Fit shirt, I had to make Today's Fit pants as part of my Today's Fit experiment.

Pattern Description:
From the pattern envelope: "Straight-legged, fitted pants have contour waistband and fly closure." In other words, the same fly front pants I've made a thousand times.

Pattern Sizing:
Today's Fit sizing, which includes 10 sizes from Misses to Plus Size.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, for the most part.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
The pattern instructions included lots of extra information on fitting and techniques you don't normally see in pattern instruction sheets. Betzina's instructions included interfacing the fly front area, a step I always forget and interfacing the hem, I step I never consider.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I chose this pattern primarily because I wanted to experience a Today's Fit pattern, not because of anything I particularly liked. The extended waistband is a nice detail, though.

Fabric Used:
lightweight poplin

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
After making a muslin, I decided to add 1 inch to the waist. I also added 1 inch to the length. I'm going to move the buttons over to get rid of the wrinkles under the waistband in that area.

Would you recommend it to others?
Way back when I was a beginner, I referred to Vogue Patterns as Vague Patterns because of the instructions. The instructions in this pattern were very clear and I would recommend this pattern to beginners with moderate experience.

Conclusion:
Now, the question is: "Will I make more Today's Fit or Big 4 patterns?" These patterns required more pattern adjustments and fitting than I'm used to doing. But, it's the construction process, as much as the finished garments, that keeps me sewing. A respected sewer reminded me pattern adjustments are just part of the process. (Thank you, Respected Sewer!) I shouldn't dismiss entire pattern companies just to avoid them. BWOFs will always be my first love for their stylish design details. But, I will also consider Big 4 patterns more often.