Saturday, November 3, 2007

Redesigning Burda 7882

I redesigned Burda 7882 to remove the bib. This is the first time I changed a pattern solely for style. The seam attaching the bib to the front serves as a dart. So, I had to move the dart from the shoulder to the bust. Using Rene Bergh’s Make Your Own Patterns, I adapted the directions to use a modified Pivot & Slide method, my favorite method for adjusting patterns. Here's what I did:

1. Determine the position of the bust dart and make a line on the front. (The red line in the following photos) Draw the seam lines on the bib and the front. (Green dashed line in the following photos)

2. Line up the seam lines of the bib and front at the center front.

3. Trace the neckline, front, bottom and side up to the dart line. Trace the dart line, forming the lower dart leg.

4. Reposition the front so that the seam lines of the bib and front match at the shoulder and the cutting lines are aligned.

5. Continue tracing - trace the shoulder, arm hole and side, down to the dart line. Trace the dart line again in it's new position, forming the upper dart leg.

6. Here is the finished redesigned front.

7. Determine the length of the dart and redraw the legs. Fold in the dart and draw in the side cutting lines, smoothing and truing as needed.

As a rule, I don't make muslins. I only make them when major changes have been made to the pattern, as in this case.

Overall, I am pleased with the way it the blouse turned out. This experiment was a success. It actually still looks like a blouse – even after I messed with it! I just eyeballed the dart placement and I have to raise the darts (a great change for a woman my age to make!) and move the dart point back. But, other than that, I think it's a fine first effort!


  1. I think it's a fine first effort, too! It takes a lot of courage to change what you already know the professionals originally drafted and that you know works just fine.

    Nice job - what fabric are you going to use for the final blouse?

  2. I am liking what are doing for your blouse. I haven't made any adjustment yet to a pattern, but looking at it first hand, it's not as difficult as I thought.