I redesigned Burda 7882 to remove the bib. This is the first time I changed a pattern solely for style. The seam attaching the bib to the front serves as a dart. So, I had to move the dart from the shoulder to the bust. Using Rene Bergh’s Make Your Own Patterns, I adapted the directions to use a modified Pivot & Slide method, my favorite method for adjusting patterns. Here's what I did:
1. Determine the position of the bust dart and make a line on the front. (The red line in the following photos) Draw the seam lines on the bib and the front. (Green dashed line in the following photos)
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2. Line up the seam lines of the bib and front at the center front.
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3. Trace the neckline, front, bottom and side up to the dart line. Trace the dart line, forming the lower dart leg.
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4. Reposition the front so that the seam lines of the bib and front match at the shoulder and the cutting lines are aligned.
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5. Continue tracing - trace the shoulder, arm hole and side, down to the dart line. Trace the dart line again in it's new position, forming the upper dart leg.
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6. Here is the finished redesigned front.
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7. Determine the length of the dart and redraw the legs. Fold in the dart and draw in the side cutting lines, smoothing and truing as needed.
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As a rule, I don't make muslins. I only make them when major changes have been made to the pattern, as in this case.
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Overall, I am pleased with the way it the blouse turned out. This experiment was a success. It actually still looks like a blouse – even after I messed with it! I just eyeballed the dart placement and I have to raise the darts (a great change for a woman my age to make!) and move the dart point back. But, other than that, I think it's a fine first effort!
I think it's a fine first effort, too! It takes a lot of courage to change what you already know the professionals originally drafted and that you know works just fine.
ReplyDeleteNice job - what fabric are you going to use for the final blouse?
I am liking what are doing for your blouse. I haven't made any adjustment yet to a pattern, but looking at it first hand, it's not as difficult as I thought.
ReplyDelete