One of the concerns I had with this blouse was (ominous chords: da-duunnn) The Sleeve Placket. It’s an important design feature of the blouse. It’s the feature that caught my attention. So I didn’t want to screw it up. I was curious about how the sparse BWOF instructions would handle the placket. After reading them several times and practicing on muslin, I decided to look elsewhere. So, I used the placket instructions in David Coffin’s Shirtmaking.
I first became concerned when I saw the pattern piece for the placket. How was I supposed to make a placket out of a rectangular pattern piece? No hint of folding lines; no sign of the triangle at the top of the placket. The resulting underlap of the placket is not bound; just folded under and stitched. And the triangle at the top is folded and shaped after the placket is sewn to the sleeve – not before. The BWOF method did not inspire confidence.
Coffin’s method starts with lots of folding and pressing and ends with a placket shape with which I am more familiar. Unlike the BWOF method, all of the hard stuff is done before the placket is sewn to the sleeve.
Then it is pinned and carefully sewn in using the old familiar "slash and leave a triangle at the top” method.
Coffin recommended using a glue stick to hold the triangle in place, but I used tape. I positioned the tape so I could sew the placket without repeatedly sewing through the tape and gumming up the needle. The edgestitch foot was invaluable at this step. I would never, ever try this without one. I'm not that good.