Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Finished: Burda 7669

Pattern Description:
Fly front pants with hip yoke pockets and wide waistband.

Pattern Sizing:
European 44-60

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
yes, very much

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, the instructions were easy to follow. Burda envelope patterns are much easier to understand than Burda Style patterns from the magazine. The drawings make all the difference.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the waistband. It's wider than normal, but doesn't look like something from another decade. Of course, I never wear a top tucked in or cropped, (me in a cropped top - how frightening) so no one will ever see the waist band.

Fabric Used:
I'm not sure what the fabric is. It looks like seersucker, but without the puckers. It's lightweight with enough body for pants. I used the same fabric for my recent BWOF capris, and it was very easy to sew.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I added width to the thighs using Nancy Zieman's Pattern Fitting with Confidence. I should have increased the crotch depth to raise the waist. These two pattern alterations need to be a permanent part of my alteration arsenal. I added an underlap to the fly. BWOF's (Burda Style's) always use fly underlaps, yet the envelope patterns rarely do.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
These pants were relatively quick to make. I like the capris included, but I doubt I'll get to them before the end of summer.

Conclusion:
As is my habit, I planned to sew a top to wear with these pants. The fabric was a tan knit just about the same color as the tan stripe in the pants fabric. But together, it was just too blah and boring - even for me!

Friday, July 24, 2009

New Misson: Thread Organization

I've been inspired by an unlikely source: Jo-Ann Fabrics & Crafts. July 19 - 25 was Coupon Commotion Week and the flyer contained five "40% off any one regular priced item" coupons. Motivated by the 40% savings, I decided to organize my thread collection and used the coupons for ArtBin Thread Organizers.

Before


After



The plan is to have a box for each color, although I'll probably need two boxes just for blue thread. I've ordered the cube (from Amazon) to house the individual boxes and I'll order the casters (directly from ArtBin.com) as soon as they are back in stock. The only challenge will be finding the perfect spot in the already crowded sewing room for the cube. If only I could get rid of the bed in the sewing room I would have so much room for storage! Actually, there is another challenge. My plan was to demonstrate some budgetary responsibility and use future coupons to buy the additional thread boxes I'm likely to need. But, I'm excited and getting impatient and I don't want to wait two weeks for another coupon. Improvement projects often point out the need for more improvement projects. After I organize spools of thread, I'll need to find a way to organize the cones of serger thread, too.

Like many sewers, I have a few issues with Jo-Ann Fabrics and Crafts, so let me give credit where credit is due. In this case, they supplied the incentive for this much-needed organizational project … and at a reasonable price.

Tuesday, July 21, 2009

Finished: Burda 8213 & 8244

Robert Burns had the right idea about plans. "The best laid schemes o' mice an' men / Gang aft agley."1

My plan was to spend Friday, maybe Saturday making a skirt and top to wear to church on Sunday. That plan certainly did gang agley. The skirt is lined and I made the lining inside out. I forgot the right side of the lining should face my body. The zipper opening on the lining ended up on the right side while the opening on the skirt was on the left side. Of course, I tried to make it fit anyway, but for some reason, it didn't work out. I had to go out and buy more lining fabric and it became impossible to finish the skirt according to my timetable. And the top decided it needed shoulder pads, so I had to buy those also. Oh, well.

Burda 8213 Skirt

Pattern Description:
Lined, 8-gore skirt with side zipper.

Pattern Sizing:
European 36 - 50
US 10 - 24

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were finished sewing with it?
Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. I was concerned about keeping the eight gores in the correct order. I used stickers to identify the seams. It's a good thing I used this technique only on the lining. The stickers left a residue on the fabric, so I was glad I didn't use it on the fashion fabric. Another plan gang agley.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the shape of tulip skirts. I'm not sure if they are are still in style, but I like them. The lining adds substance to the lightweight rayon fabric. I almost excluded it after my little mishap, but I'm glad I stayed with the plan.

Fabric Used:
I used rayon challis. Almost any weight fabric can be used for this skirt. The pattern envelope recommends linen blends, gabardine, lightweight wools and rayon.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
None

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes – this pattern is quick, easy and suitable for many fabrics.

Burda 8244 Top

Pattern Description:
T-shirt with faced neckline.

Pattern Sizing:
European 44 - 60
US 18 - 34

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were finished sewing with it?
Yes. This is such a simple design, I would have been surprised if it didn't look like the pattern envelope.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Very much so.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
What's to like or dislike? I just wanted a t-shirt. Actually, I like the bust darts. They give a more flattering fit for women with C or D cups. And the neckline facing, as opposed to a binding, makes the t-shirt more feminine. It looks more like a shell than a t-shirt.

Fabric Used:
A matte jersey

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
The pattern directions recommend easing the sleeve cap as you would if using a woven fabric. The sleeve cap is rather high for a t-shirt. But I've never had to ease a t-shirt sleeve. If I make this top again, I'll check to see if easing is really needed on the sleeve cap. The directions recommend using a twin needle to hem the sleeves and bottom. I used the cover stitch configuration on my serger.
The next time I make this top, I will lower the darts a little.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
This t-shirt rivals Kwik Sew in it's simplicity. I recommend it, but I think it's been discontinued.

Conclusion:
This t-shirt can be made in an afternoon - perfect for beginners and those who need instant gratification.



I love that my church has a dress-down policy during July and August, but my old-school upbringing will allow me to dress-down only so far. So, I needed some easy summer outfits for church. The t-shirt, when matched with the simple skirt makes a casual summer outfit I can feel comfortable wearing.


1 "The best laid schemes of mice and men / Go often askew." Burns, Robert, To a Mouse, 1785

Monday, July 13, 2009

Instant Stash

Now I can say, "I have a stash". A nun from my daughter's former high school called to say she had some fabric I might be interested in. "Some fabric" turned out to be four green trash bags and three large boxes full of fabric. The fabric belonged to the mother of a secretary at the school and reflected the taste of a 70 year old woman. There were lots of double knits, polyester gabardines and fabrics that are really not my taste. But Sister was motivated to get rid of the fabric and it's hard to say no to a nun when she is motivated! I took lots (but not all) of it because I knew she wanted me to, not because I thought I would use the fabric. I'll go through the stash again and sort out the fabrics I'm sure to use. The rest can be used for test garments. Those who know my sewing habits know this much fabric makes me uncomfortable. But I admit, it does feel good to know I'll always have something to sew.



My second source of fabric was Morocco, via my daughter. Before she left, I asked her to bring me fabric, even though she knows nothing at all about fabric. As luck would have it , the mother in her host family is a tailor/seamstress/upholsterer and helped my daughter select three pieces. I'm supposed to use the fabric to make a long, caftan-like garment commonly worn in Morocco (DD doesn't remember the Arabic name of the garment, but assures me it is NOT a caftan). But I think I'll use the pink and the blue to make tunic tops using BWOF 06-2009-135. The black and white should make a nice blouse to go with a black skirt or pants – maybe BWOF 09-2008-137 & 138. I'm going to shuffle the projects in my queue so I can finish one of the tunics before my daughter goes back to UVA. She is such a sweetie - I want her to know how much I appreciate the fabric.

Friday, July 10, 2009

The Finished Quilt

My first quilt! I call it "Star in the Midnight Sky". All that is left is to hand sew the binding to the wrong side! I can do that while sitting on the porch with a pitcher of lemonade and a smooth jazz radio station. I wasn't sure I would, but I actually like quilting. Taking the class insured that I would finish a quilt and would be better able to judge whether or not I have the patience to quilt. Of course, part of the enjoyment came from the class experience. It was a pleasant change to sew around other people. I like the planning stage of quilting the same way I like the planning stage of garment sewing. And, I've already signed up for another quilting class - Free Motion Quilting. This class is only one session and I will learn a skill that will allow me to get more creative on my next quilt. (I'm already thinking in terms of my next quilt!) Considering the way I obsess over matching fabrics, I'm going to start by purchasing fat quarter bundles with fabrics already matched and coordinated. Quilting won't replace garment sewing, but I do enjoy it. And … this was one of my goals for 2009. Actually, I've covered two of my goals: take a class and make a quilt. My sewing skills are expanding!

Thursday, July 9, 2009

Next: Burda 8312 & Burda 8244

This blue print has been married more times than Elizabeth Taylor. It was originally purchased along with pants fabric to make a blouse. For reasons I don't remember, I didn't make the blouse as originally planned. Call it irreconcilable differences. Then, I ordered more pants fabric from an online source but that didn't work out either. What did I expect? The fabrics came from two different worlds and the marriage was destined to fail. The blue fabric did some soul-searching and decided it needed to make some changes and become a skirt. Then, of course, the blouse-turned-skirt fabric needed a different kind of partner for a top. I started by buying a piece of yellow matte jersey on the G-Street field trip. The color was all wrong and that fabric marriage didn't last either. Mixed marriages can be difficult. Finally, I bought this cream colored matte jersey and I'm sure this fabric marriage will last. The cream colored jersey does a much better job of bringing out the light color in the blue print than the yellow from G-Street. And isn't that what a good fabric marriage is supposed to be – two fabrics bringing out the best in each other? All the single ladies, including me, should take inspiration from the blue print fabric. Keep trying – sooner or later, you will find your perfect mate. Or, at the very least, someone you don't mind being seen with!

Monday, July 6, 2009

Finished: BWOF 04-06-126 and 03-06-131C

Hayes Sewing has "Color of the Week" sales. Fabrics with a selected color are 20% off. On a recent visit, white was the color of the week and I bought a nice piece of white linen for a blouse along with a blue and white stripe for pants. I didn't want the blouse to be plain white so I considered adding blue touches to the white linen. This outfit is the result.

Blouse: BWOF 04-06-126

Pattern Description:
Short sleeved, button front blouse.

Pattern Sizing:
European plus size range: 44 - 52

Were the instructions easy to follow?
The copy from the issue says: "A lovely little lightweight blouse …… it’s not only pleasant to wear but also quick and easy to make!" Ha! It took three tries before it became “quick and easy to make”. The first time I made this blouse, beginner’s luck got me through the instructions. The second time, there was no beginner’s luck and the blouse ended up a wadder – big time. On the third try, I was able to struggle through the instructions and successfully finished the blouse. This time, I barely needed the instructions. (She can be taught!) In addition to BWOF’s strangely shaped band, the collar has inside corners on the lapel. The procedure would have been infinitely easier if the instructions were illustrated

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
It was love at first sight! I’ve loved this blouse since 2006 when it first appeared. The style is classic and I love the way the vertical darts shape the silhouette.

Fabric Used:
Linen is one of my favorite fabrics to sew. It doesn’t move around during cutting and sewing. I love the way it looks when it’s freshly pressed, even thought it looks freshly pressed for only seven minutes. When people see me wrinkled and rumpled, they know I’m wearing 100% linen. I wear my wrinkled linen with pride.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
After hemming in the normal fashion, I used a decorative cover stitch around the sleeve hem to add color and make the blouse coordinate with the pants. Coupled with the blue buttons, it gives the blouse a retro look.

I used Pivot and Slide to lengthen this blouse by 1 inch.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
After three successful blouses, this blouse qualifies as a TNT. I would certainly make it again.


Conclusion:
This blouse is deceptive. The design is simple, but it’s a three-dot pattern. BWOF describes a three-dot pattern as “intermediate difficult – more advanced”. I’m happy that I mastered it.



Pants: BWOF 03-06-131C

Pattern Description:

Pattern Sizing:Plus size range 44 – 52

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I must be indulging my inner masochist; this is another three-dot pattern. The hip pockets have piping strips that insert into darts. This requires very careful marking, cutting and sewing. The pocket piece is sewn on in two phases. The first phase includes the piping and the second phase includes the dart. Even though I knew what to do, I had difficulty reconciling my experience with the printed instructions. It was another case of BWOF's famous awkward German to English translation.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I chose this pattern because it matched the outfit in my head. The fabric in the fashion photo looked like my fabric.


Fabric Used:
I’m not sure what the fabric is! It looks like seersucker without the puckers and it’s a little heavier than seersucker.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I’ve made these pants once before. I like the classic look, but the hip pockets were really a pain. Once I was well into the construction, I was almost sorry I’d taken it on. But, like the 04-20006-126 blouse, now that I’m familiar with the process, it will be easier the next time.

Conclusion:
I'm very happy with this outfit! For some reason, maybe because the blouse looks a little retro, it makes me think of an old-fashioned Sunday School picnic.