Monday, June 30, 2014

Finished: BWOF 08-07-127 - Mom Jeans

I just about finished my Great Dress Project and I am moving on to my Great Jeans Project.  I need pants for my part-time, very casual work setting and jeans are the perfect choice.

The first challenge was finding the right pattern.  I wanted to get reacquainted with McVoguerick patterns so I chose McCall's 5894.  The fit was dreadful.  Enough said.

I went to my archives for Burda World of Fashion 08-07-127 and had better results.

Pattern Description:
Traditional 5 pocket jeans

Pattern Sizing:
European plus size range 44 - 52

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I wanted a TNT standard 5-pocket jeans pattern because I intend to make several pair for work.  I will be using this pattern again.

Fabric Used:
Cotton twill:  I wanted the look of 5-pocket jeans, but not necessarily in denim.

One thing, perhaps the only thing I liked about the McCall's jeans pattern was the fly treatments.  The fly facing was sewn on, not a cut-on extension and the finished fly looked like RTW jeans.  BWOF used the same fly treatment and I was equally happy with the results.  The usually confusing BWOF instructions were easier to understand because I was familiar with the process from the McCall's pattern,   in addition, Angela Wolf demonstrates a traditional fly in her Jeans Craftsy class.  I'm not sure Wolf's demonstration is exactly what BWOF was try to say.  Since BWOF instructions are not illustrated, Wolf's Craftsy class was indispensable.

On the waistband, I made a few changes in the order of construction.  The waist band had two separate sections: an inner waistband and an outer waistband.  I took advantage of this feature and sandwiched the belt loops between the two waistband pieces.

One of the fun things about sewing jeans is finding a design for the back pockets.  I chose a West African symbol known as Musuyidie (moo zoo EE DEE YEH).  It's a symbol that removes evil.

Although I want to expand my options and use McVogerick patterns  more,  this project reminded me why I turned away from those patterns.  For both the McCall's and BWOF patterns,  I selected the size according to my hip measurements and sewed both  patterns without alterations.  The difference in fit was astonishing.  No, the BWOF fit isn't perfect and yes,  there are wrinkles in the BWOF jeans. Purists would find much to change, but I'm satisfied. I can live with a few wrinkles.


  1. Shoot you get wrinkles in expensive row jeans as well. I'm just impressed because first you made jeans, and secondly because they look great.

  2. You are more tolerant of wrinkles than I am. I am a bit obsessed, but I have come to the conclusion that only young, thin women can have perfectly wrinkle free jeans. I tried a McCalls jeans pattern and they were not winners for me either.

  3. Isabel's DaughterJuly 1, 2014 at 3:51 PM

    Good job. I see no problem with those wrinkles. I'm sure you will get lots of wear from those, which was your goal.