Finished: BSM 07-2012-135

Should I let an interesting design detail make me lose my good sense?  I think I look best in full skirts, but can a novel feature, like exposed darts, inspire me to change my mind?  You bet it can! I normally wouldn't wear a dress with an obvious waist either.  But, if exposed darts can make me forgo a full skirt, they can make me wear a dress with an obvious waist.

Pattern Description: Short sleeved dress with exposed darts.

Pattern Sizing:  European plus range – 44 - 52

  

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I loved the exposed darts

Fabric Used:  Linen.  I love sewing linen even though it wrinkles like crazy.  But what fabric makes a better summer dress than linen?

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I raised the neckline.  Sometimes I think the designers at Burda have a fixation on cleavages.  (Do they bottle feed or breast feed in Germany?)  The original design had exposed darts at the hemline.  I omitted these darts because I didn’t want a tapered skirt.  I wanted as much fullness in the skirt as I could possibly get.

Construction:  I ordered two rolls of Swedish Tracing Paper and they arrived just as I was tracing this pattern.  Since I had to alter the plunging neckline, I decided to try the STP.  Using the STP, I was able to sew the darts in the bodice and draft the new neckline and facing while the darts were sewn.  I don’t think it would have been as easy if I’d traced the bodice on the artist’s tracing paper I normally use.

The exposed darts are the main design feature of this dress.  In addition to the exposed darts on the front and back, the sleeves have darts rather than easing.  The darts are made exactly like any other dart.  The only difference is they are sewn with wrong sides together.  The dress was very easy to sew together.  Thanks to Burda’s excellent drafting, the bodice and skirt fit together perfectly.

The sleeves edges are finished with a facing rather than a hem.  I'm sure there is a reason for this, but I don't know what that reason might be.  Perhaps the length of the sleeve makes a facing a better option than turning up a hem allowance.  I think it looks classy.

Conclusion:  

I am really enjoying making dresses.  One of the reasons I like Burda Style Magazine patterns is the variety of dress styles offered.  I had far too few dresses in my closet and I glad to add this dress to my wardrobe.