Dress with high waist, bust pleats and sleeve pleats.
European plus range: 44 - 52
Silky polyester. The fabric was a little unruly during cut-out. I had to cut the front bodice lining twice because the fabric moved so it was impossible to line up the dart legs.
Pattern Alterations or Design Changes
I've learned it's best to raise the necklines in most Burda Style patterns. I raised the neckline one inch.
The bodice front is underlined. I used self-fabric as the underlining. Because the fabric was so slippery, I used a walking foot to keep the fabric together and prevent the top layer from "growing". My walking foot is my most underused and under appreciated foot. There have been times when I should have used it, but I didn't consider or even remember it.
To install the zipper, I used a technique found in 10-20-30 Minutes to Sew (Nancy Zieman, 1992) The technique in the book uses a conventional zipper, but it works just as well with an invisible zipper. Using this method, the facing is sewn to the zipper tape by machine rather than by hand. It's a good looking finish.
The sleeve is finished with a bias band. Since the fabric was so slippery, I basted rather than pinned the band in place. The result was a neatly sewn narrow band.
The bust pleats are a little funky. They provide ease in the bust area that I don't need. I looked at another review for this dress on Pattern Review. One of us had our pleats going in the wrong direction. I won't say which one of us had the pleats going in the wrong direction, but I will say the other sewer didn't appear to have the same bust funkiness I had.
Dare I say it? Making a muslin would have shown this to me. But I wouldn't have known how to adjust it anyway, so why bother? (Bad attitude. I know.)
This dress is not one of my favorites. I like the silhouette, but once again, I could have made a different fabric choice. The weight of the fabric is appropriate for the pattern. It's light weight for summer, but the color says fall.