Sunday, October 19, 2008

Finished: BWOF 03-2008 127 & 126B

I took Lindsay T’s posts to heart. (July 14 and July 12, 2008) This project represents the first time I used an interfacing other than the Pellon I buy from JoAnn. I ordered Pro-Woven Fusible from Fashion Sewing Supply. Working with non-Pellon interfacing was quite an eye-opening experience. I kept thinking, “This really makes sense; woven fabric – woven interfacing.” The interfaced areas had noticeably more body, yet the fabric was not stiff.

BWOF 03-2008-126B - Pants

Pattern description: Pants with invisible zipper on the side, elastic in the back waist and double welt pockets.

Pattern Sizing: Plus size

Did it look like the photo/drawing once you were done sewing with it? One of the things I like about BWOF is the garments always look like the photo or technical drawing.

Were the instructions easy to follow: I’ve always said BWOF instructions were sparse, but that isn’t really accurate. It’s just that the instructions aren’t what I’m used to. There is essential information in places I’m not used to looking. For example, hidden in the "Seam and Hem Allowance" section, the instructions say to cut the seam allowance on the center panel 1 inch wide rather than the usual 5/8 inch. When reading over the instructions, I sometimes skip the seam allowances section to go directly to the construction directions. Needless to say, I was confused when I read the directions for the flat-fell seam: “Turn in panel seam allowance on side front trouser pieces 5/8 inch next to marked seam line, and press.” What the … ??? That sentence didn’t make sense to me when I thought the seam allowance was 5/8 inch.
The pants included double welt pockets in the back. I had little confidence in the BWOF directions for welt pockets. Luckily, I found help on the BurdaEnglish website and in "Pants for Real People". I also spent some time last summer practicing welt pockets.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the decorative flat fell seam on the front of the legs. It adds a subtle decorative feature. I also like the double welt pockets on the back. I think double welt pockets add a little class to garments.

Fabric used: 100% cotton twill

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: The only pattern alteration was to add 1 inch to the length.

Conclusion: Making these pants will have a lasting influence on future projects. First, I no longer fear welt pockets. As long as I don’t try to take shortcuts, welt pockets are not that difficult. Second, working with the Pro-Woven Fusible interfacing was a dream. (NAYY) I don’t think I’ll be going back to Pellon.

BWOF 03-2008-127 Blouse

Pattern Description: Long sleeved blouse with princess panels on the front and back

Pattern Sizing: Plus sized

Did it look like the photo/drawing once you were done sewing with it? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow: I’m becoming more familiar with BWOF English translation. The instructions presented no problem.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? As usual, I like BWOF’s design details. The shape of the hem, the collar, the princess seaming all appealed to me. However, the design details presented challenges. Practically every seam had to be eased in some way or another – sometimes quite a lot.

Most of the time, the ease could be controlled with 50 million pins.

When attaching the rounded corner of the hem band to the bottom of the blouse I used long gathering stitches, but I had to be very careful so it didn’t look gathered. In addition, the seam allowances in the corner had to be clipped.

Fabric used: 100% cotton. Fabric with lycra was recommended. I didn’t use it, but I wish I had. The blouse is a little snug. I used Pro-Woven interfacing in the blouse and I was thrilled with the results.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Usually I lengthen blouses. I didn’t in this case but I should have. Since I chose not to use a stretch woven, I should have increased the bust a little. I don’t have wiggle room the bust area.

Conclusion: My expectations for this blouse were high and I am I a little disappointed. But the fault is my own. I was being lazy. I should have lengthened the blouse as I usually do, and I should have used a fabric with stretch. From now on, I’ll pay more attention to the fabric recommendations.


  1. Elaray, nice job on the pants and blouse. Isn't Pam's interfacing the best. I think you right when talking about the BWOF instructions, you need to read all the steps, even if they seem sparse. It does make a difference, thanks for the reminder.

  2. The both look great. Congratulations on the welt pockets!

    When attaching the rounded corner of the hem band to the bottom of the blouse I used long gathering stitches, but I had to be very careful so it didn’t look gathered.
    Did you ease stitch there (long stitches with your finger held down behind the presser foot to bunch it up) or gather (loose stitches where you pull the threads after it's sewn)? I find a lot of BWOF patterns really need ease stitching in certain places to fit together, too.

  3. on the whole bwof spare instructions thing, you are spot on in that you really have read everything and comprehend, then its like magic
    nice new outfit, I like the cut of the blouse

  4. I'm trying to make a Burda WOF jacket right now and I'm completely lost. I think I'll sit down and read them completely first, then try again. Those pants are fantastic. I really like the details and you've done a great job executing them.

  5. I know that we can be harder on ourselves than others but gurl please this looks good on you! So this first blouse is a very good wearable muslin...make it again using another fabric with the length you want and you will have a winner!

    So now all you have to do every time you wear this one is strike this pose and everyone will think you are as stunning as I do! :)

  6. I hope the blouse isn't too uncomfortable on you because it looks great! And black pants - what can I say? You can never have enough. Terrific looking outfit!

  7. Well, you look wonderful. The pants really are nice and not fearing the welt pocket is a great thing!

  8. Nice design..! That long sleeved blouse is looking fabulous.