Finished (Finally): BWOF 11-2007-130 and 10-2007-129

Whew! I think I started this outfit in 1987! Actually, I started on or about August 21 and September is almost half over and I'm just finishing. That's what working in a urban school district in September will do for you. During September, I feel like I'm running in circles, spinning plates while walking a tightrope, and I have a hard time settling down to sew.

PANTS

Pattern Description:
Pants have sewn-on bands at the hem and pockets and sewn front crease

Pattern Sizing:
European Plus sizes 44 - 52

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, basically.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
In making the bands on the pocket, I'd intended to make an oak tag template to use while pressing the curve. Tips like this are seldom included in most instructions – certainly not in BWOF instructions. I didn't have cardboard on hand at the time, so I made the template using something heavier than paper but lighter than card stock. (I'm going to have to "obtain" some oak tag from one of the schools in which I work.) Even though the template was lighter than I would have liked, it served the purpose and made pressing the curved seam allowance a little easier.










What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I always like the design details in BWOFs. These pants have a sewn-in crease and sewn-on bands on the bottom of the pants and at the pockets.

Fabric Used:
Cotton twill

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I did my usual pants alterations: raise the waist and lengthen the legs. I raised the entire waist by ½ inch and the center front by an additional ½ inch to accommodate my belly. The belt loops on these pants were supposed to be placed a little below the waistband. I don't really like this look so I put them in the usual place, level with the waistband.

Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, these pants went together predictably. I would definitely recommend them to others.

TUNIC

Pattern Description:
BWOF calls this top a tunic. It has ¾ length sleeves held in place with tabs; double darts for shaping the front and back, faux pockets and flaps.

Pattern Sizing:
European Plus sizes 44 - 52

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Once again, the details in the garment are lost because of my fabric choice. Because I chose a print (quite a pretty print, I think), the blouse doesn't look a lot like the photo. I'm just a sucker when it comes to some print fabrics. I buy the fabric and I ignore that it might be at war with the design.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Just when I think I've got BWOF instructions all figured out! "Baste lines to right side with a tacking stitch", they said. Sure – what's a tacking stitch? However, a quick google search answered that question. A tacking stitch is simple a basting stitch "similar to running stitch but with longer stitches". Couldn't they have said, "Thread trace placement lines?" It isn't a problem, though. I learned something new: tacking stitch = plain ol' basting.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked everything about this blouse: the way the darts shaped the silhouette, the tabs on the sleeves – all the design details. Of course, the design details are why I love BWOF so much.

I am learning to trust BWOF directions no matter how confusing they seem at first reading. The pocket piece on this blouse is not for a functioning pocket. The pocket piece is sewn onto the inside of the blouse, but there is no pocket opening on the front. At first, I thought the piece served only as a stabilizer for the pocket topstitching. However, it does more than that. It also serves as support for the pocket flap without the use of interfacing. This is an example of thoughtful and effective pattern engineering.

I was able to use the variable needle position feature of my machine for something other than edge stitching. There are two rows of topstitching that define the faux pocket. First, I lined-up the center mark on the presser foot with the first row of topstitching. Then, I shifted the needle all the way to the right. I kept the topstitching lined-up with the center mark while sewing. The second row of topstitching remained a uniform distance from the first row.

It did present some challenges, though. But I bought three more pieces of the same rayon in different prints. I think I'd better learn how to deal with the challenges!

Fabric Used:
I fell in love with this rayon fabric! I was determined not to leave the store without it. I purchased it from my favorite non Fabric Row independent store Hayes Sewing in Wilmington Delaware. The rayon was unstable and grew quite a lot in the sleeve cap. At first, I thought I'd traced and cut the wrong size sleeve. Easing the grown sleeve into the armscye was quite an adventure.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
This top was described as a tunic and is longer than a blouse, so I didn't make my usually length adjustment.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I might sew this again using a solid fabric so the design details I love so much might actually show. I would recommend it to others.

Conclusion:
Except for the "Incredible Growing Sleevecap", this blouse was a pleasure to sew. I'm going to go through my books. I know someone must have addressed reducing the ease in sleevecaps or stabilizing rayon.


This outfit practically screams "Fall!". I love the colors and I'm going to enjoy wearing this.