Saturday, May 10, 2008

Finished: Burda Plus 403B Pants & 406B Shirt

The Bottom

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the 20,000 miles of edge stitching (made easy by an edge stitching foot). the back, the side and back panels in the legs. The technical drawing shows the design details that attracted me to this pattern. I questioned the pleats at the knees and I haven't decided yet if I'm bothered by the fullness these pleats produced. In spite of all the design details, these pants were easy to sew.

Fabric Used:
A sateen finish bottom weight from Vogue Fabrics by Mail. It seemed the blouse fabric coordinated better with the pants fabric when I looked at the small swatches. I don't like the fabrics together as much now that they are made up as clothing.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I was forced to make some design changes. For some reason, the selvage on this fabric was very wide and I lost two inches of width. Subsequently, there was not enough fabric for the back pockets or the tabs that allowed the pants to be rolled up to capri length. I won't miss the pockets, but I really wanted the capri option. As a rule, I lengthen the crocth by 3/4 inch (I don't like even a hint of low rise) and the legs by 1 inch. I really didn't need the extra length in the legs.

Conclusion:
I'm disappointed that I couldn't include all of the design details I liked in these pants. But, they are comfortable and are perfect for Mid-Atlantic spring-turning-into-summer weather.

The Top


After years of experience, I'm finally used to BWOF directions. However, pictures would have helped in this case. When sewing on the neckline area of the front facing, you stop at the point where the collar begins. This point is marked by a clip. Being a creature of habit, I sewed the entire length of the facing and when I realized my mistake I had to rip out the stitching. A picture would have reminded me that the stitching stopped halfway up the neckline and I might have avoided that mistake.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the design details; the decorative drawstrings, the bust darts from the armscye, the double darts in the back; the slits in the sleeve. Now that I'm familiar with the method, I like the way BWOF does collars. The roll line is sewn-in and is defined and stabilized by the seam.

Fabric Used:
Oxford cloth from Vogue Fabrics by Mail.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
None, although I could have lengthened the blouse by an inch or two. I need to spend some time fitting the high bust and neck area of blouses I make. Everything seems to settle to far back and I lose any interesting collar details because they are on my shoulder and not on my chest. (Time to hit the fitting books again.)

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I might sew this blouse again in a lighter weight fabric and without the collar. I would recommend it to others.

Conclusion:
Because of the sleeve length and fabric choice, this is a good top for transitioning from spring to summer.

5 comments:

  1. Like you I'm very undecided about these knee darts. Let us know what you think after a couple of wearings. I love the top. It's very smooth and flattering.

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  2. Elaray, I love the top. The only change I'd make is to lengthen the collar so that it comes down the neckline a bit lower. The knee darts make the pants a bit different, in a good way. I might want to make them for myself. Sorry your fabric wasn't as cooperative as you wanted.

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  3. I am with you about the knee darts, but wear them a couple of times and see. They might be different after a couple of washings, too. Great job on all the sewing and the top is great.

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  4. Really cool outfit, well done!

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  5. If you sit all day in your job like I do, that extra fabric around the knees could come in very handy!

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