Thursday, February 7, 2008

BWOF 01/05 #134 Jacket - Progress Report

It's good thing I changed my attitude and embraced "Slow Sewing". Otherwise, I would never have taken on this jacket. What started out as a simple plan to rescue an unflattering dress has turned into a huge sewing ordeal!

Experience has taught me to read BWOF instructions carefully and repeatedly before doing anything. In reading the instructions for this jacket, I discovered my old friend, "The Freakin' Collar". In the past, I had trouble with the FC because I couldn't figure out how the collar band fit onto the collar and how the collar fit onto the lapel and neckline. Trust me, it was not a typical collar and collar band treatment. Eventually, I mastered the FC, but I was not happy to see it again in this jacket. This time I have a plan! I'm going to use color coded stickers to transfer seam matching numbers to the fabric pieces. I just match the stickers and I'll know how the pieces go together. (she said hopefully!)

The original version of this jacket didn't include a lining and I'm ambivalent about adding one. Once I started making lining pattern pieces, I reconsidered my decision to add a lining. If Aenne Burda didn't want a lining in this jacket, who I am to put one in? I know all the pros of lining the jacket, but I'm not sure I'm up for the experience. My alternative plan is to line only the sleeves (as described by Nancy Zeiman) so the jacket will slip on easily and use a Hong Kong finish on the seam allowances (to dress it up a bit). Or, I could line the sleeves, make a partial lining for the back and a full lining for the front (as described in Easy Guide to Sewing Jackets). Right now, I'm feeling intimidated by BWOF. I love BWOFs but they don't always love me. On the other hand, I have the power to make this jacket into exactly the jacket I want. I should not be feeling bullied by a piece of cotton twill. I should be feeling empowered.


  1. That's the beauty of sewing - you can make it whatever you want it to be! Good luck!

  2. This is going to be a great jacket. If you are making it for spring, you may want to leave it unlined and just do hong kong finish on the seam allowances. Another option would be to underline it. Whatever you do, I'm sure you'll knock it into submission once again!

  3. Oh no. The FC. You know, I have a friend who ran in to that collar too. like me, she ended up doing it by hand. I may have to trek to Philly for a lesson from you.

  4. It will be interesting to see how this turns out...I'm tempted to offer advice but I am more interested in seeing what you finally decide to do!