Sunday, May 29, 2011

Zippers – The New Old Way

I needed a 22" navy blue invisible zipper, so I went to my local JoAnn Crafts and Fabrics. There was no 22" navy blue invisible zipper, not even a 16" navy blue invisible zipper, so I bought a regular zipper.  Yes, I could have purchased another color because only the zipper pull would be seen, but I'm too obsessive for that.    I hadn't inserted a conventional centered zipper in ages.  When I did, I basted the center back seam, pinned the zipper over the basted seam and sewed it in from the right side.   The pins sometimes prevented the zipper from being sewn smoothly, so I thought this was a good time to try something different.  I found this method in The Sewing Book  (Smith, 2009).    It uses more hand basting than I'm used to, but I have learned to "embrace the baste."



I realized I've become too dependent on invisible zippers and  I decided to work on installing conventional zippers.  I was never completely satisfied when I inserted centered zippers the "old" old way.  Even using this "new" old way, the zipper teeth show a little more than I'd like. But then I'm used to invisible zippers where the teeth don't show at all.   There is a slightly different method in The Illustrated Guide to Garment Construction (2011) that still involves basting the zipper tape to the seam allowance.  Installing zippers better is a worthwhile goal for me.  It gives me an excuse to buy Bernina's zipper foot #14, which has a guide to insure straight top stitching when inserting the zipper.  Both The Sewing Book and Garment Construction were originally published in the UK.  Maybe this is the way zippers are done over there.  This method takes a little longer, but I'm willing to sacrifice speed for a neatly inserted zipper.  I'm sure the time will come again when I can't find the invisible zipper I need at JoAnn Crafts and Fabrics.

8 comments:

  1. Hahaha ... love your font use for Joann CRAFT .... and ..... fabric.

    Your zip looks great!

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  2. Elaray a couple of tips. I use these on invisible zippers too.
    1)hand baste the zipper tape, both sides
    2) move the zipper pull out of the way (up or down) and when you are halfway along the machine stitching of the zipper tape, needle down and presser foot up, move the pull to the other end. Then proceed to finish stitching.
    I always had bubbles at the pull until I saw somewhere or thought to do this. Even the zipper foot wouldn't really go around them too well.

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  3. Oh, I agree. I just put a center back zipper in my Granddaughters dress, which I hadn't done in about 5 years. Well, lets just says I put it in and ripped it out 3 times before I was OK with the way it looked. I need more practice, I will try this hand basting first, thanks for this hint.

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  4. Oh, you brave woman! I'm very impressed. I run in terror at the thought of installing a regular zip. I like this method, but I doubt I will ever actually DO it.

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  5. Lee, I stopped hand basting and use Wonder Tape now. It washes out even in dry cleaning items. Your zip looks great. You did a great job! Karen Teel

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  6. Your zip looks great. I wouldn't buy another color zip, either and would have done what you did. *I* would know that I have a black zip in a blue item and it would drive me nuts.

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  7. Thanks for the zipper tutorial. I plan to try this way too! :)

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  8. I like the method for zips in the Singer Complete Photo Guide to Sewing. It features using glue sticks instead of basting the zipper to the SA; and using tape on the garment to use as a guide for stitching. I prefer the lapped to the center application but using the tape was a revelation!!

    Thanks for the comment on my blog--my fabric cubes were from Target a few years ago--they might still have them. :)

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