Finished: BWOF 09-06-137 Pants and BPF SS-09-408A Blouse

Pants: BWOF 09-06-137
Pattern Description:
Fly front pants with vertical welt pockets and a single dart in the front.

Pattern Sizing:
European plus 44 - 52
US 18 - 26

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I did not use BWOF's instructions. Most of BWOF's instructions were devoted to the welt pockets and the zipper. Instead of using the BWOF instructions for the welts, I used the instructions in Pants for Real People (Palmer and Alto, 2007). This book has been invaluable on my quest to conquer the welt. After I successfully finished the pockets using PFRP, I went back and read BWOF's welt instructions – just to see if I could understand them. They made a little more sense, but not much. As usual, I didn't use BWOF instructions for the fly front zipper either. I used the instructions in Power Sewing Step-by-Step (Betzina, 2002). That left BWOF's instructions for the waistband, side and center back seams and the hem. I really didn't need instructions for those techniques.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
This pattern gave me the opportunity to make a single welt pockets. Using PFRP, I was confident about double welts. I practiced on scrap fabric before making the pockets in the actual pants. When I finally attempted the pockets in the pants, it took almost two hours!!! No kidding. I was happy with the results so I had no complaints about the amount of time. Clothing manufacturers use specialized machines for almost every task. I'd like to see the machine used for attaching welts.

Fabric Used:
Wool

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I increased the thigh circumference. I need to make this increase in some, but not all BWOF styles. I have to make flat pattern measurement a habit.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I would like these pants in a summer weight fabric. I think they'd look good in linen.


Blouse: BPF SS-09-408A

I've wanted to make this blouse for months. Whenever I set out to make it, I didn't have enough fabric. The sleeves are in two pieces and require more fabric than more traditional sleeves. Finally, I bought fabric specifically for this blouse.

Pattern Description:
Blouse with front and back yoke and two piece, three-quarter length sleeves gathered into cuff.

Pattern Sizing:
European 46 - 54
US 20 - 28

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
This blouse did look like the photo/drawing, and therein lies the problem. I didn't notice, or chose to ignore, the three-quarter length sleeves. I visualized a blouse with long sleeves.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I've been using BWOFs almost exclusively for several years. The instructions used to make me crazy. Now, I just find them annoying. I cannot honestly say they were easy to follow, but I've gotten used to them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Once again, Burda Style had design details I've rarely found in other plus size patterns. In this case, I liked the construction of the sleeves.The bottom half of the sleeve is a flounce that gathers into a cuff. The result is a distinctive-looking sleeve.

I tried two methods to gather the sleeves. First, I cut a piece of clear elastic to the finished circumference of the bottom of the sleeve. This measurement was given in the sewing instructions. I divided the elastic and the sleeve circumference into quarters and marked both. I stretched the elastic as I sewed it to the bottom of the sleeve matching the quarter marks. The sleeve gathered to the specified length when the elastic relaxed back to it's original length. NOT! For some reason, the gathered section was too long and it was impossible to adjust the gathers with the elastic attached. So, I removed the clear elastic and gathered the sleeve the old-fashioned and preferred way – by zigzaging over thread.

Although I liked the way the sleeve was constructed, I wasn't happy with the length. The photograph showed three-quarter length, but the sleeve looked longer in the technical drawing. On my arm, the sleeve was too long to be three-quarter and too short to be long. If I'd made a muslin, I could have fixed the problem. (When will I ever learn.)

Fabric Used:
Polyester from Vogue Fabrics. This polyester reminded me of why I love working with natural fibers. This fabric was really hard to press. A nice linen would have pressed so easily!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
The original blouse was much longer than my version. I measured up and subtracted nine inches from the length.

Conclusion:
The motivation for this outfit was simple – I wanted navy blue pants. The situation quickly became more complicated. I wanted a blouse to wear with the pants, so I bought fabric for the blouse. I wasn't happy with the finished blouse, so I ordered more of the same fabric to make a different blouse. While looking through the Vogue swatches to order more blouse fabric, I noticed a knit that coordinated with an orphan piece of fabric I had on hand, so I ordered that, too. And all for the want of navy blue pants.