Finished: BWOF 05/05 #133

This dress is such a disappointment. I hate when this happens! I spend time making a dress and I can't wear it. I won't be able to wear this dress unless I loose a few pounds and inches. I should have made a muslin first. This might be just the thing to get me back on my elliptical machine! And we won't even discuss my truck driver's tan lines! The fabric I used was sheer - maybe not too sheer for some, but too sheer for me. So I underlined it with plain old cotton broadcloth. Underlining made the fabric more opaque and easier to work with. It would have slipped and slid all over the place and I would have been even more disappointed and upset. The photograph below shows two upper side fronts. The one on the left is not underlined; the one on the right is underlined with orange broadcloth. If you look carefully (click to enlarge) at the piece that is not underlined, you can see the lines of the cutting mat show through. The underlining also brightens up the fabric. I used my walking foot to underline each and every piece except the facings. I used the same process on my daughter's prom dresses, so I was only mildly annoyed about the extra work.

Pattern Description:
Sleeveless, high waisted dress

Pattern Sizing:
European 44 - 52

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?
For the most part, the directions were very easy to follow. I had to go to another source when it came to doing the neckline and armhole facing. I used the directions found in Claire Shaeffer's High Fashion Sewing Secrets. Shaeffer's directions include illustrations, which make the procedure (which is somewhat awkward) much easier to understand.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I chose this particular dress because it was compatible with fabric I had. The fabric spoke to me and said "summer dress". I don't particularly like things that zip on the side. If I made this again, I would move the zipper to the back.

Fabric Used:
I don't actually know what the fabric is! It's lightweight, moderately sheer and a plain, weave. Not quite as sheer as organza. Originally, I bought the fabric to make a blouse that coordinated with wool I bought for pants. But the fabric is sheer and summery and I didn't want to wear it with wool pants.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I shortened the dress to the length of 05/2005-134 (in the same issue). If I make this dress again, I would lengthen the neckline/armhole facing unit so that it would be less likely to roll up and out of the dress. The procedure for this change is also in Shaeffer's book. Since I underlined it, I was able to tack the facing to the underlining.

This dress ended up being too tight in the bust area. I need help zipping it up and once it's zipped, it's hard for me to move my arms. I should have lengthened the top - the empire seam is not below my gravity-challenged bust. I'm really disappointed in the results. All of the problems could have been solved by making a muslin (a lesson I learned long ago, but it seems it hasn't stuck yet). I like that I solved the opacity problem with underlining. I like that I found easier directions for the all-in-one neckline/armhole-facing. Even my invisible zipper looked good! The only problem is I can't wear the dress!