I use the pivot and slide method to make pattern adjustments. When making pants with a side pocket, as 99% of my pants are, I usually ignored the pocket and adjusted only the hip yoke. I read about a method for handling side pockets in
Fitting Finesse (Zieman, 1995). I missed it because it was hidden in the chapter on skirts. This method used waxed paper and a tracing wheel to trace three layers of waxed paper at one time. I couldn't use this method since I don't use waxed paper. The marks made by the tracing wheel on my tracing paper were barely visible. But, I realized I needed to adjust all three pieces (pants front, side hip yoke and pocket lining) and I modified the method to suit me. The important part of this method is what I call "The Master Pattern".
1. Trace pants front master pattern. Layer hip
yoke and pocket lining pattern pieces into position, matching notches and dots.
Trace lines for hip yoke and pocket lining pieces onto the master
pattern. For easy identification of
pieces, use a different color for each piece.
2. Make adjustments to hip yoke.
Lay tracing paper over master pattern
and trace hip yoke piece and side and waist seams (red). Mark adjustment point measured distance from
side seam. Pivot to increase and trace
new lines. Be sure to trace side
seam and waist line differences (red colored-in sections).
3. Make adjustments to pocket piece. Lay
tracing paper over master pattern again and trace pocket piece and side and waist
seams (green). Mark adjustment point measured
distance for side seam. Pivot to
increase and trace all new lines.
Be sure to trace opening edge and waist line differences.
4. Increases appear on front, hip yoke and pocket lining. Adjustments are made to the center front, center back and side back as usual.
So far, I've only tried this method on paper. I'm eager to make my next pair of pants so I can try it out.
