Another Creation

Finished: BPF FW–11–428

2012-02-15T06:59:00.002-05:00

First things first … I owe 100% Polyester an apology.

Poly, I'm sorry I blamed you for the horrible way the collar and yoke looked when I used you to make version 1 of this blouse. I said some hurtful things when I threw you in the trash. Some of the fault may have been mine. I made a mistake adding seam allowances. Here is what the directions said about seam allowances: "1.5 cm (5/8") at seams and edges, 1 cm (3/8") on horizontal edges of cut in front piece, on front bands, and on collar attachment seam, 2 cm (3/4") on hem etc, etc, etc." My mistake was adding two different seam allowances: 3/8" on the collar piece and 5/8" on the blouse front and back yoke neckline edges. So Poly, I was wrong. I still prefer natural fibers and I still will avoid sewing you, but it wasn't all your fault.

I realized my error when the collar of version 2 fit a poorly as version 1. I checked my pattern pieces and there was a 5/8" seam allowance staring at me. I trimmed away the excess seam allowance on the blouse, stay stitched and clipped the curves and the collar went on perfectly. Of course, my itty-bitty mistake on the collar doesn't absolve Polyester of the yoke, but we won't go there. Poly and I can both blame Burda Style Magazine for the poorly written instructions. Adding a little "s" to "collar attachment seam" might have made all the difference.

And now, on to the blouse ……

BPF FW-11-428
See sidebar or click here for Pattern Review

It all started with that damn polyester. I fell in love the with color and I had to have it. I selected the blouse pattern because it was not what I would normally choose. I started out in love with the polyester fabric color and ended up in love with the blouse design when the poly didn't work out. After the poly was thrown out, I still had to have the blouse. So, I immediately went out to find an alternative fabric. (Thank heaven for JoMar.)

The front gathers and front band were a bit of a challenge. I had to adjust the gathers to the length of the band, meet the gathered edges to the bottom of the slit, diagonally bast the gathers to the slit opening, then cover the gathers, inside and out, with the front bands. Of course, the inside and outside bands are not exactly congruent and the inside is a little funky. If I'd done more basting, it might have looked better. And if that procedure wasn't enough of a pain, the instructions were written in typical Burda pidgin English and required several readings and visualizations before they made sense to me.

I'm ambivalent about the cuffs. They were part of the reason I chose to sew this blouse, but I'm not sure I love them now. If I ever make this blouse again, I'll make a more conventional cuff.

As God Is My Witness………

2012-02-05T16:21:00.001-05:00

…… I'll never sew polyester again!

Burda Plus Fashion
Fall/Winter 2011 #428

All I wanted was a blouse. This blouse really wasn't that difficult. I read the instructions a few times and understood the construction of that deceptively innocent looking gathering on the front. My mistake was choosing 100% polyester fabric. When sewing a nice natural fiber like linen or cotton, one only needs a little steam to make the fabric behave. Natural fibers stretch and ease. But polyester? Polyester doesn't stretch or ease. It's almost impossible to ease a polyester seam. Steam wasn't enough to shrink the longer seam. Steam only made it wet. It took brute force and a wood clapper to even press the seam allowances to one side. And even then, the results are less than desirable. I used every method of easing I know and it wasn't enough. I got the sloppy looking collar and yoke seen below.

Easing would have helped the collar and yoke.

If the polyester were more cooperative, I could have eased the seams together and those hideous little hiccups would have disappeared. If I couldn't get a seam like the yoke to look smooth, imagine what the sleeve would have looked like – especially with the added layers of the bands on the shoulder. I did what any self-respecting person would do. I gave up. I wasn't happy with the way the yoke and collar looked and I knew I would never wear the blouse.

As I struggled with an iron, a clapper and brute strength, I felt like Scarlett O'Hara must have felt when she found herself face down in the dirt scarfing down that raw potato. A little piece of polyester was not going to keep me from having that blouse. Just like Scarlett, I got up, wiped the dirt off my face, spit out that damn potato and took myself to the store to look for another fabric to use for the blouse.

Finished: Burda Plus Fashion FW-2010-405

2012-01-29T09:00:00.000-05:00

BPF FW-2010-405
Click here or see sidebar for PR Review

My lastest finished project is #405 from the Fall/Winter 2010 issue of Burda Plus Fashion. I can't believe I've had the fabric since last May, PR Weekend in Chicago. I usually don't let fabric hang around that long. The fabric is 100% polyester and pressing it really made me appreciate natural fibers. I had to use lots of steam and a clapper to get the seams to press open.

I thought the print fabric needed some contrast. I was lucky to find the black contrasting fabric at JoAnn. The two fabrics are essentially identical and they work well together. Adding the contrast was easy. I determined the width and drew a line on the bodice pattern piece (front and back). Then, I laid tracing paper over the bodice and traced the new contrast band piece. Next, I added the seam allowance to the band and to the new edge of the bodice and cut out the pieces. I recommend including a notch for matching the pieces. An even easier method would have been to draw the line, cut the pattern piece apart and add seam allowances. The bodice is lined with self fabric rather than faced.

No one would ever notice, but I used a tone-on-tone decorative stitch on the insert. I took the time to audition several stitch patterns to find one that complimented the print. I needn't have bothered. I like a tone-on-tone effect for its subtlety, but this passes subtle and goes right to invisible.

I'm happy with the way this dress turned out. I glad that decided to add the contrast. This may end up being a favorite dress.

Hiatus

2011-12-05T08:00:00.001-05:00

Where did the time go? It's been a month since I've posted anything. Blogging seems to have slipped off the radar while I wasn't looking. So, I've decided to put blogging aside for a while. I'm fully aware that my little blog is just a speck of dust in cyberspace, but I've come to know people in the blogosphere and in real life who might have noticed my absence, if only as a passing thought. I'm still healthy; still sewing; still reading blogs and boards (and occasionally commenting). Just as maintaining a blog slipped off the radar, when the time is right, it will slip back on.

Pivot and Slide with Side Pocket

2011-11-02T08:00:00.000-04:00

I use the pivot and slide method to make pattern adjustments. When making pants with a side pocket, as 99% of my pants are, I usually ignored the pocket and adjusted only the hip yoke. I read about a method for handling side pockets in Fitting Finesse (Zieman, 1995). I missed it because it was hidden in the chapter on skirts. This method used waxed paper and a tracing wheel to trace three layers of waxed paper at one time. I couldn't use this method since I don't use waxed paper. The marks made by the tracing wheel on my tracing paper were barely visible. But, I realized I needed to adjust all three pieces (pants front, side hip yoke and pocket lining) and I modified the method to suit me. The important part of this method is what I call "The Master Pattern".

1. Trace pants front master pattern. Layer hipyoke and pocket lining pattern pieces into position, matching notches and dots. Trace lines for hip yoke and pocket lining pieces onto the masterpattern. For easy identification ofpieces, use a different color for each piece.

2. Make adjustments to hip yoke. Lay tracing paper over master patternand trace hip yoke piece and side and waist seams (red). Mark adjustment point measured distance fromside seam. Pivot to increase and tracenew lines. Be sure to trace sideseam and waist line differences (red colored-in sections).

3. Make adjustments to pocket piece. Laytracing paper over master pattern again and trace pocket piece and side and waistseams (green). Mark adjustment point measureddistance for side seam. Pivot toincrease and trace all new lines. Be sure to trace opening edge and waist line differences.

4. Increases appear on front, hip yoke and pocket lining. Adjustments are made to the center front, center back and side back as usual.

So far, I've only tried this method on paper. I'm eager to make my next pair of pants so I can try it out.

Finished: BSM 04-11-138A and BSM 09-10-135

2011-10-14T15:51:00.000-04:00

Top: Burda Style Magazine 04-2011-138A

I ~~hate sewing knits~~ prefer sewing wovens. Lately, I've been more selective when choosing knits and I've been more successful. I purchased this knit from Gorgeous Fabrics and sewing it really wasn't that difficult. The only difficulty was choosing the correct needle. A jersey needle worked better than a stretch needle on this fabric. Usually, it's been the other way around. I don't know why it made a difference, but it did.

Pattern Description:
This top is actually an amalgam of two tops. The body is BSM 04-2011-138A and the neckline is Pamela's Patterns #104. The original Burda neckline showed too much skin.

Pattern Sizing:
The BSM body comes in Plus sizes 44 - 52. Pamela's Pattern is XS - XL

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Since I used two patterns, I used to sets of instructions. Both were very easy to follow. The original BSM top called for a turned under seam allowance at the neckline. I preferred a bound neckline, so I used the instructions from Pamela's Pattern.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The fabric was slightly busy, so I wanted a simple design. This long sleeved t-shirt had no design details to conflict with or get lost in the fabric.

Fabric Used:
I hastily selected this fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics. All I wanted was a black and white knit. It was easy to sew and I'm slowly changing my mind about knits.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I tried making the changes to the neckline without using another pattern but I lost my nerve at the last minute. Good thing. When I compared my neckline adjustment with Pamela's Pattern neckline they were vastly different. My neckline would have looked really strange and I probably wouldn't have worn the top.

Conclusion:

There will be other times when I want a no-frills long sleeved knit top. I'm certain to sew this again.

Pants: Burda Style Magazine 09-2010-135

How many pairs of black pants does one woman need? According to my closet, several. I've made yet another pair.

Pattern Description:

These are typical fly front pants.

Pattern Sizing:
This is a Burda plus size pattern, European 44 - 52

Were the instructions easy to follow?

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
These pants have a partial lining on the front. I didn't know that when I decided on these pants, but I like the idea of a partial lining. The front lining was basted to the pants front and the two pieces were treated as one (technically, an interlining). Even the fly guard was lined. It makes a very neat appearance on the inside of the pants.

Fabric Used:
I bought this wool blend last year on a field trip to FabricMart.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I did not make any alterations to these pants, but when I make them again, I will add maybe an inch to the waist.

Conclusion:
My next pair of pants is likely to be this pattern.

Sewing Mojo v. Blogging Mojo

2011-09-26T08:00:00.013-04:00

I've been spending more time in the sewing room and less time at the computer. I'm glad my sewing mojo is back but it's been difficult to find time or motivation to document my sewing progress in a blog. I finished this outfit over a week ago, but I didn't take the time to photograph or write about it. Really, there isn't much to say.

Tank Top - Burda 3215: Piece of cake! The instructions called for a turned under finish on the neckline and armscye. I used bias binding instead.

Pants - Burda Plus Fashion SS-2010-426 : These pants have an elastic waist and a mock fly. I think the concept of a mock fly is a little silly. It's just as easy to install a zipper – so I did.

Blouse - Burda Plus Fashion SS-2010-424: The blouse fabric was somewhat sheer, but I chose not to do french seams. A serged seam was good enough for this casual outfit. I decided on a narrow 5-thread stitch with the chain stitch needle in the rightmost position and wide three thread overlock stitch. When I tried to insert a needle into the rightmost position, it just wouldn't GO! The next day, I took my serger to the dealer for a little look-see. I thought the problem was me, but it turned out there really was something wrong with the machine. The good news was it could be fixed while I waited. The bad news was I had to wait while it was being fixed! I love my dealer, but waiting for over two hours did get a little tedious. It wasn't a total waste of time, though. I got to read a few sewing books that were in the store and I advanced two or three levels in Angry Birds on my iPod.

The straight stitch needle plate made a big difference in sewing the lightweight fabric. I paired the needle plate with the patchwork foot and I had no problems with the delicate blouse fabric.

I worked on this outfit in 20-30 minute periods to give my mojo time to get unpacked and settled-in. I'm happy with the outfit because it turned out just the way I pictured when I bought the fabric.

If I Thought of it ………

2011-09-13T07:58:00.003-04:00

……why didn't the Bernina engineers think of it?

Recently, I bought a straight stitch plate for my sewing machine. I can imagine sitting down to the machine, switching to a utility stitch, and ………wait for it ………… BAM! The needle hits the the plate, breaks and scares me out of 6 months of life. And let's not even think of the broken needle point flying toward my eyes. As I sit at the machine, there is no easy way to tell which plate is in the machine by simply looking.

It's very easy to tell the plates apart when they are not in the machine.

Here's an idea: Put the bright red warning decal on the FRONT of the plate when it can be seen! Sure, I can mark the front of the plate with a permanent marker or a stick-on dot, but shouldn't someone at Bernina have thought of that?

NB: I broke a needle before I even had a chance to edit and put up this post!!!

My Mojo: Gone But Not Forgotten

2011-09-05T08:31:00.001-04:00

I always get a little disoriented during this time of year. It's "Back to School" time and my mojo always gets out of the way because I can get quite bitchy when summer vacation ends. This school-year is different because, if all goes according to plan, I'll be retiring at the end of it. My attitude about my last year working in a large and failing urban school district is not the best. Frankly, it sucks. Trying to keep a rein on all that sucky-ness is stressful and the stress has leached into other parts of my life - including sewing. But, I don't worry anymore when my mojo takes a powder. Eventually things will fall into place and I'll be a happy sewer again - even if I'm unhappy at work.

Recent sewing projects have been for my daughter. She wanted more dresses and selected three Burda patterns. Her tastes are very conservative for a 21 year-old. (I wonder where she got that from?). She has no interest in the sewing process - only the finished garment. So, I selected several patterns I thought she'd like and printed them out. Instead of searching through an entire pattern catalog, she had to search through only a few pages.

I liked 7798 because it was more youthful than the other two. So naturally, she wanted 7602 and 7972 sewn first. I finished the dresses weeks ago. Maybe my mojo sneaked into the box when I mailed the dresses to her.

Just when I thought my mojo was back, I started working on an outfit that will be totally inappropriate for the season by the time I finish it. I ran into a little problem. I'm using a soft, sheer fabric I bought during at Fishman's Fabrics during PR Weekend. It's so soft and sheer, it bunches up under the presser foot and a glop of thread forms on the underside. According to Claire Shaeffer's Fabric Sewing Guide, I should be using a small hole needle plate on my sewing machine. I don't own a small hole needle plate, so a trip to my dealer is in order. I was disappointed when I couldn't work on the blouse. My mojo tried to come back to me but was prevented from doing so because I didn't have the right equipment. I'm sure the trip to the sewing machine dealer for a new throat plate will be inspiring and my mojo will come back home where it belongs.

TNT Times Two

2011-08-22T08:00:00.001-04:00

A few years ago, I remember lamenting I didn't have any TNT patterns. Since then, I've established a few TNTs. I just finished back-to-back versions of BWOF 03-2007-129, moving this pattern firmly into the TNT category. It started with a fabric purchase impulse and a fabric purchase mistake.

When I dragged my daughter to Fabric Row to find fabric for a dress, I met and fell in love with the gold colored batik. I wanted to get it sewn while it was still warm enough to wear it. I first choose a sleeveless top, but it was getting late in the summer and I didn't think I'd get it finished in time. My window for wearing sleeveless is very small. So, I looked through my Burda index and selected 03-2007-129. Serendipitously, the fabric matches a pair of pants I made a few months ago.

I didn't buy lining fabric for Lindsey's dress during the first trip, so I went back to Fabric Row. I was in such a hurry I left my brain at home on the dining room table. I bought fabric that was totally wrong for the lining – but totally perfect for a blouse. Time was still of the essence, so I chose #129 again. (Actually, I was just too lazy to search for another pattern.) I don't like wearing white because I always seem to spill something on myself whenever I wear white. But, there is always an occasion for a white blouse and now I have one appropriate for the summer.

I like this blouse pattern because the seaming gives the blouse a little shape - a less boxy look. I feel extremely fortunate to have found the buttons that were a perfect compliment to the gold batik.

After these blouses, I'm going to make two dresses, in absentia, for my daughter. She won't be here for any trying on, fitting or photographing for blogs. Before she left, I measured her from waist to hem so I could hem the dresses without her. She was so funny! She was worried that I wouldn't remember to add a hem allowance to the measurement and the dresses would be too short. Twenty-somethings really believe they know everything and their parents know nothing!

Burda 8227: DD's Dress

2011-08-11T17:46:00.043-04:00

Finally, I got to sew something for my daughter! I sewed dresses for her when she was young and didn't have a choice. It's been such a long time since I sewed anything for Lindsey that I didn't really remember why I stopped sewing for her. But she asked me to make a few dresses for her and I was happy to do it. It's nice to sew something that is a regular size for a change.

This dress also comes in a sleeveless version and in two lengths. It comes in sizes 10 - 24, so if we were into that sort of thing, my DD and I could have matching mother-daughter dresses. The instructions were straight-forward. I used a sheer stay tape to stabilize the gathers in the front. The fabric is a cotton batik. Lindsey said the colors reminded her of a friend from India. I wasn't sure cotton was the right choice for this dress, but with the broadcloth lining, it worked. The lining is actually an interlining – two layers of fabric treated as one – on the bodice. I didn't have to make any design changes and fitting wasn't necessary.

While working on this dress, I remembered why I stopped sewing for Lindsey in the first place. She doesn't enjoy selecting patterns. In fact, I went to the Burda website and pre-selected and printed out several options I thought she would like. She's usually too busy to shop for fabric with me and trying on clothes for fitting is torture for both of us. But while we were in North Carolina, we survived a visit to Mary Jo's in Gastonia, NC where she selected two pieces and three patterns for future projects.

Bean and his proud Dad

And what were we doing in North Carolina?!? We drove there to meet the newest member of the family – my nephew, who has a perfectly good given name, but whom I lovingly call "Bean". He also answers to "Love Buggy", "Pedro", "Prince" and "Asparagus"! I guess I'll have to start sewing little boy clothes in the future!

Finished: BSM 05-2009-129

2011-07-25T06:35:00.000-04:00

This dress came as a complete surprise to me. When I bought the fabric, I had no idea what I was going to do with it other than make a dress. I got lucky when I married the fabric to BSM 05-2009-129. I really like this dress! The silhouette is good for my body type; the full skirt balances my "top-heavyness".

The only pattern alteration I made was to lengthen the bodice to accommodate my low bust line. (Gravity and age are merciless.) I used stay tape on the front gathers. I marked the finished length on the stay tape, pinned the stay tape to the area to be gathered and adjusted the gathers to match that length. Finally, I sewed the gathered area to the tape. The stay tape is sheer and adds no noticeable bulk to the seam.

Sometimes the Burda way of doing things is logical and make sense to me. Other times, the Burda way of doing things makes no sense at all. For example, the lining is put in with the wrong side of the dress against the right side of the lining. The recommended fabric is chiffon, so I'm sure the reason for this is to prevent unsightly seam allowances and darts from being visible through the sheer chiffon. That makes sense. However, I didn't understand why the lining was not assembled as a single unit. The bodice and skirt are lined separately and then sewn together at the empire waist. I haven't made lots of lined dresses so I was confused and didn't see the rationale for this method. I wished this lining were more conventional because I wanted to try a technique in the August/September 2011 issue of Threads (Sew Invisible Zippers Like a Pro p. 60) in which the lining is attached to the zipper tape completely by machine – no hand stitching!

I used my serger to make a rolled hem on the sleeve and skirt. Burda's instructions suggest a "closely spaced zig-zag" and I've used this method to finish edges on other Burda projects. It works quite well if an overedge foot is used. It was actually faster to use the overedge foot on the conventional machine than to set up the serger for a rolled hem with woolly nylon. I heard my serger lament, "She never uses me enough! I can do more than sew seams with a 5-thread combination stitich! If she loves me, she'll use me!" So, I listened to my serger and I used it for a rolled hem on the skirt and sleeves.

And, so ends the "Season of the Dress" I've kept the promise I made in April and sewed several summer dresses! This one might just be my favorite.

So Long, Kincus.

2011-07-23T14:00:00.001-04:00

So long, it's been good to know yuh;
So long, it's been good to know yuh;
So long, it's been good to know yuh.
This dusty old dust is a-gettin' my home,
And I got to be driftin' along.

(Woody Guthrie, 1940)

My favorite Fabric Row store has closed. Everyone would agree Philadelphia's Fabric Row is not what it used to be. I've seen the slow demise in the years I've lived in Philadelphia. Kincus was one of the "old guard" Fabric Row stores. The store was owned by the same family for generations. Several years ago, half of the sales area disappeared. Several months ago, my favorite sales person was laid off. Now the whole store is gone. I'm very sad.

This means I'm going to have to change the way I buy fabric. I used to make spontaneous trips to Kincus and other Fabric Row stores after work to pick up one or two nice pieces for an outfit. I could take a modest amount of money to Fabric Row with no guilt. Now, there will have to be more planned trips to the Garment District in New York, which is having it's own survival problems. A major shopping trip to the Garment District is not a bad thing. I've enjoyed my trips to Metro and Mood. But, a two hour train or bus ride is not as easy as a quick trip to South Philadelphia. I'd have to spend considerably more money in New York just to make the trip worth the time and effort.

I do my best to support independent fabric stores. I've watched to slow death of other independent fabric stores (and other small businesses), but this one really hurts.

Finished: BSM 04/2011 #135

2011-07-13T06:44:00.000-04:00

Elizabeth made New Look 6022, which was really cute and which was very similar to BSM 04/2011-135. Her dress was so cute, I was inspired to try something similar for myself, knowing that I'd need a dress with more room. This Burda version is less fitted than the New Look version. This dress has raglan sleeves and in seam pockets.

A cursory look at the design would make one think sewing this dress would be a no-brainer. But, noooo! Burda made things a little more difficult. The neck binding was narrow and was meant to be folded, pressed and sewn in like bias tape. Trimming the seam allowance; sewing on the fold line and folding the binding over the edge. A french binding would have been easier. Because the binding was so narrow, I hand basted it in place before machine stitching for a neater appearance. This is the kind a situation where an edge-stitch foot is invaluable. The instruction said to use fusible bias tape to hold the pleats in addition to basting them in place. Since the seam allowance has to be trimmed off before attaching the binding, the fusible tape holds everything in place

I'm in the midst of my "sew-dresses-and-sew-up-fabrics-from-PR-Weekend-before-I-buy-any-more-fabric" phase. I confess, I did not buy this fabric during PR Weekend, but I did order it from Vogue Fabrics by Mail in Chicago so it still counts, sort of.

The instructions specify a flat felled seam for the sleeves. I've been practicing flat felled seams, but even with the special foot my flat felled seams are a little sloppy. So, I pressed the seam allowance to the back and top-stitched.

I like the simplicity of this dress. The simple design allows the fabric to stand out. The next time I find very pretty summer dress fabric I'll use this pattern.

Tracing Tip

Few sewers love Burda Magazine patterns more than I do. Since Burda includes only one pattern sheet, tracing the patterns has become a challenge even for the most dedicated fan. It's easy to loose the line I'm tracing among all the other lines. I couldn't put my hands on a usable highlighter, the "pre-tracing" method of choice, so I used Post It ™ arrows to point out the tracing lines. I placed them at various points along the pattern lines so that my eyes have an easier time finding the line if I happen to turn away from the pattern sheet. Granted, a highlighter makes the lines more visible, but this method worked in a pinch.

The Sew/Fit Manual

2011-07-11T08:00:00.002-04:00

I've always preferred the Pivot and Slide method of pattern alteration over the Slash and Spread method. This method involves tracing, pivoting and sliding the pattern to make the necessary width and length changes. I first learned about this method by watching Sewing with Nancy, so naturally I bought Fitting Finesse (Zieman, 1995). For a long time Fitting Finesse was my primary resource for pattern fitting information. When Nancy Zieman published an updated version, Pattern Fitting with Confidence (Zieman, 2008), I bought that one too. I purged sewing books a while ago and I decided to keep Pattern Fitting with Confidence, believing "newer is better" and it would be my go to source for pivot and slide pattern fitting. I was wrong. Fitting Finesse contained information that was left out of Pattern Fitting with Confidence. I had to re-purchase Fitting Finesse to fit a dress with princess seams.

I own several books by Nancy Zieman and I refer to them often. But I find them a little "watered down". I decided to search for the undiluted Pivot and Slide book and the search led me to The Sew/Fit Manual (Oblander and Anderson, 1992). I'm embarrassed to admit, this was another book I owned and purged some time ago.Now that I've re-purchased The Sew/Fit Manual, I've taken a more critical look at it. I think it is an excellent resource for P&S and I don't remember why I ever got rid of it in the first place. It covers much more than either of Zieman's fitting books. In addition to step-by-step instructions on completing scores of P&S alterations, the book has several chapters on fitting theory. In fact, the actual P&S "how-to" instructions don't begin until Chapter 5, page 159. Detailed step-by-step instructions are given for measuring and marking the pattern pieces and pivoting, sliding and tracing to make the adjustments. Full figures, petite figures and princess style adjustments are also covered. And if, after all this, I still needed the Nancy Zieman seal of approval, I learned she worked with the authors on the first edition and was the first model.

Eww.

I have one criticism about this book - the artwork. Some of the faces of the drawn figures are downright scary! (Maybe I got rid of the book to stop the nightmares. ) Others are simply amateurish. Luckily, these are just the fashion illustrations and they can be ignored. The diagrams that illustrate the processes are clear and that is what is important.

The Sew/Fit Manual was last published almost twenty years ago. New copies are available through Hip/Line Media. I bought a used copy from Amazon. I hope I've finally learned my lesson about purging books. There is no guarantee I'll be able to replace them.

Note: I did find one newer comprehensive source for pivot and slide. Fitting and Pattern Alteration (Liechty, Rasband and Pottberg-Steineckert, 2010) compares P&S, the Seam Method and the Slash Method for each pattern alteration. I would like to own this book, but it cost over $90. I'd have to give it a good, long preview before I spent that much money. I can't trust myself. After spending $90 I might purge it within a few years. With The Sew/Fit Manual and two Nancy Zieman books, there is no reason for me to buy another book on Pivot and Slide.

Finished: BPF SS-2010-413

2011-07-04T06:49:00.000-04:00

A mistake I make all too often is to arrange a bad fabric/pattern marriage. I really loved this linen purchased during PR Weekend in Chicago and I didn't want to make a dress that didn't make me happy. I actually put some thought into this decision. My original plan was to sew BSM 4-11-135A with this fabric, but that would have been boring. I realized the fabric, being a solid color, could tolerate design details like interior seams and edge-stitching.

This is a half size pattern and is drafted for a shorter figure. For most measurements, the difference between regular plus size and half size is no more than 3/4". I added length above the waist to lengthen the bodice and below the waist to lengthen the hem.

Belt casing

I like Burda's unique design details and this dress had quite a few. The pattern has a belt casing in the back, a cuff at the hemline, sleeve tabs and welt pockets in the front. I've convinced myself that the casing is subtle enough that it won't look strange if I don't wear the belt. I think the dress is more slimming without the belt. I was unsure about the cuffed hemline. I decided to throw caution to the wind and include the cuff. Somehow something went wrong when I was lengthening the dress. The cuffed side front panels were too long and didn't match the uncuffed center front panels. The cuff had to be eliminated. One thing in particular I didn't like: when drafting the patten piece for the sleeve tabs, measurements are given for a simple rectangle. In the sewing directions you are instructed to "trim one edge of tab to a point." I really wished Burda had provided that simple pattern piece. It took a little bit of trial and error before I could draft a point of pleasing proportions. I didn't have any other tab pattern pieces to use as a guide. Turns out, the best looking point was a simple right angle. You really do learn from your mistakes. After drafting so many strange looking acute angles, I'll remember to use a right angle to draft attractive points. I decided to eliminate the welt pockets. The placement of the welts, in addition to the belt, called too much attention to my belly.

I'm glad I took the time to make a good fabric-pattern match. The fabric I loved so much is now a dress I love.

Finished: Pamela's Pattern #104

2011-06-27T05:54:00.000-04:00

After finishing BSM 06-2008-128, I wanted something that would require only 14 or 15 brain cells and no hand sewing. Pamela's Pattern Perfect T-Shirt was just what I needed. Besides, the serger was already threaded with the right color. Whenever serger sales people said "You can sew a t-shirt in two hours!" they must have been talking about this pattern. It is so basic you can sew it with your eyes closed. An instructional DVD (purchased separately) is available for this pattern. The DVD is easier to follow than the written instructions. If you watch the DVD, you won't need the instructions. This is a very easy t-shirt and if you've made a t-shirt before, you can sew this one without any trouble. This is Round 3 for this pattern and me. The first try was just a tiny bit tighter than I like so I pivoted an inch more room into the bust and waist and I'm much happier with the fit. The shirt has optional bust darts, which are recommended for larger sizes, and what Pamela calls "essence of waist". These features yield a flattering fit for a t-shirt. In her instructions, Pamela recommends "Heat 'n' Bond Lite" to prevent a wavy hem. I used my serger's cover stitch and differential feed and waviness was not a problem.

This t-shirt was easy to sew because the knit fabric was cooperative. It didn't shift and move every time I turned my back on it. I bought it at The Needle Shop during PR Weekend 2011 - Chicago. It cost more than I would normally spend for a knock-around t-shirt knit, but I was in a PR-Weekend-induced-shopping-frenzy. Coincidentally, while fooling around on the computer and googling random names, I recognized my fabric on a website. Turns out it was designed by Jay McCarroll , the winner on the first season of Project Runway. No wonder it cost so much! But, it behaved so nicely, it was worth the price. I've learned the more selective I am about the knits I buy, the easier they are to lay out and cut.

Finished: BSM 06/2008 #128

2011-06-21T06:10:00.000-04:00

This dress was the most labor-intensive project I've taken on in a long, long time. I really, really wanted it to turn out well. In order for it to turn out well, I had to commit to making a muslin and taking my time.

This dress came with a few challenges. First was the band placement.   Since the high-waisted band echoed my high-waisted body and I thought it would not be a challenge. But, I'm large-busted in addition to being high-waisted. My bust would raise the band even higher. If ever a pattern cried out for a muslin, this was it! Just as I expected, the muslin told me I needed to lengthen the bodice. It also told me I need to increase the bust circumference. This lead to the second challenge.

I'd forgotten how to make pattern adjustments to princess seams and I no longer owned the book, Fitting Finesse (Zieman, 1998) that addressed how to make those adjustments.    The simplest, albeit not the best, solution was to order another copy of Fitting Finesse. Luckily, I found a copy at Alibris for $2.45 ($6.44 including shipping – the shipping cost more than the book!).

The decorated waistband presented yet another challenge.   I wanted to duplicate the beading shown on the model, but I couldn't find large, flat beads in a matching color. So, I chose smaller beads and used decorative chain stitching to fill up the space. I was torn between tone-on-tone and contrasting beads. I chose tone-on-tone because that's my personality, but all those beads I sewed on one by one are barely visible.

Here's what I love about Burda Magazine instructions (she said sarcastically):   60% of the construction was condensed into the first sentence – "Stitch side front and side back seams on skirt and bodice of dress." Once you've done that, add the waist band, sew the shoulder and side seams and the dress is practically finished!   Then, the instructions say: "Sew lining as dress." Everything you need to know is there, but I'm amazed so much of the instructions are contained in two sentences.

This dress required more work than I've done in quite a while. I sewed the lining to the zipper by hand. Each and every bead is sewn on and back stitched to make it more secure. Once I found the rhythm to the bead sewing, it went reasonable quickly. I enjoyed working on it and it gave me a chance to take my sewing outside on the porch. I wish I'd spent more time fitting the bust. The muslin fabric fit differently than the linen, so the bust is a little bigger than I expected.

Sometimes, I'm My Own Worst Enemy

2011-06-13T08:00:00.005-04:00

Every once in a while, I get fed up with the clutter and conduct a purge in the sewing room. Most often I purge patterns; sometimes I purge books. Purging patterns isn't a big problem. I use lots of Burda Style Magazine Patterns and if I absolutely have to, I can always retrace patterns hastily purged. Purging books is another matter. Mistakes are not so easy to fix. I got rid of several books a few years ago and I lived to regret it. Gwen warned me, but I didn't listen.

Wouldn't you know, I needed one of the books I so foolishly tossed aside in 2009. Gwen is entitled to a big, fat "I told you so!"

My current project (BSM 06/2008 #128) needed a little enlarging in the bust area. The dress has princess seams. I forgot how to pivot and slide princess seams and I got rid of the book that would have helped me. It wasn't all my fault. Nancy Zieman should take some responsibility for my problem. Her Fitting Finesse (1994) had information on using pivot and slide on princess seams. The updated version, Pattern Fitting with Confidence (2008) omitted that information. I believed having both books was just a waste of space, so I got rid of the older Fitting Finesse. When I needed to refresh my memory, I discovered I didn't have the book I needed! Who leaves important information out of an updated version of their book?!? Thanks a lot, Nancy!

Did I buy a replacement? I plead nolo contendere. An observant reader will notice the photo above was taken in my own sewing room. Please, don't let me purge again. Friends don't let friends purge sewing books.

Finished: Burda 8379

2011-06-01T08:00:00.006-04:00

If I stick to my promise to not buy any more fabric until I sew most of my cache, the next four garments I make will be dresses. I bought navy linen late last summer, but the weather got cold before I got a chance to use it. Since it had the most seniority, it was next in line to be sewn. When I bought it, it was supposed to be pants, but I decided I needed dresses more and choose Burda 8379.

This dress was very easy to sew. The neckline is faced, the sleeves are finished with bias tape and it has a center back zipper. That's it! Nothing more difficult than a center back zipper.

I originally planned a different dress for this fabric, but I didn't have enough of the fabric for that dress. While the style is perfect for summer, navy blue isn't really a summer color unless it's paired with white. The simple styling make a very comfortable dress to wear in hot weather.

While photographing this dress, I auditioned a few necklaces to wear with it. I like the length of the necklace pictured, but I think I need a necklace that is a little more substantial.

Better Late Than Never

Two years ago, Faye showed off the pattern weights she made by wrapping ribbon around large, flat washers. I've wanted to make a set for myself ever since. I finally got around to it! I adapted Faye's design by using single fold bias tape instead of ribbon and wrapping two washers instead of one.

Zippers – The New Old Way

2011-05-29T12:00:00.013-04:00

I needed a 22" navy blue invisible zipper, so I went to my local JoAnn Crafts and Fabrics. There was no 22" navy blue invisible zipper, not even a 16" navy blue invisible zipper, so I bought a regular zipper. Yes, I could have purchased another color because only the zipper pull would be seen, but I'm too obsessive for that. I hadn't inserted a conventional centered zipper in ages. When I did, I basted the center back seam, pinned the zipper over the basted seam and sewed it in from the right side. The pins sometimes prevented the zipper from being sewn smoothly, so I thought this was a good time to try something different. I found this method in The Sewing Book (Smith, 2009). It uses more hand basting than I'm used to, but I have learned to "embrace the baste."

I realized I've become too dependent on invisible zippers and I decided to work on installing conventional zippers. I was never completely satisfied when I inserted centered zippers the "old" old way. Even using this "new" old way, the zipper teeth show a little more than I'd like. But then I'm used to invisible zippers where the teeth don't show at all. There is a slightly different method in The Illustrated Guide to Garment Construction (2011) that still involves basting the zipper tape to the seam allowance. Installing zippers better is a worthwhile goal for me. It gives me an excuse to buy Bernina's zipper foot #14, which has a guide to insure straight top stitching when inserting the zipper. Both The Sewing Book and Garment Construction were originally published in the UK. Maybe this is the way zippers are done over there. This method takes a little longer, but I'm willing to sacrifice speed for a neatly inserted zipper. I'm sure the time will come again when I can't find the invisible zipper I need at JoAnn Crafts and Fabrics.

Finished: Vogue 7636

2011-05-25T08:00:00.040-04:00

I had three items in my queue before I added eight pieces of fabric to my small fabric cache during PR Weekend. I plan to sew two of those items before starting on my Chicago Collection. The third piece is being pushed back for fall sewing.

The first project was Vogue 7636, a Today's Fit by Sandra Betzina blouse, which I believe is out-of-print. I've had this pattern for quite a while. I made the long sleeved version, but I didn't like my fabric choice, seldom wore the blouse and forgot about the pattern. I'm glad a gave it a second look. I like this version a lot better.

My original plan was to cut the straight hem. When I tried the blouse on, I thought it was too short. If I'd made a muslin, I would have known about this situation before it became a problem. Luckily, I had enough fabric left to cut just the shirttail bottom and use it as a separate extension. It was just a matter of adding a seam allowance and sewing it to the bottom of the shirt. The side and shoulder seams were finished by pressing the allowances to one side and topstitching them down. I used the same technique to attach the extension so the horizontal seam echos the seam connecting the yoke to the front. My hope was that it would look like a deliberate design detail and not a mistake.

Added bottom extension

Today's Fit pattern instructions are personally written by Sandra Betzina. The instructions for the yoke were a little confusing. Two options were presented: one that involved hand sewing and the other was sewn entirely by machine. I've used the "entirely by machine" method countless times, but the instructions in this pattern still confused me. The instructions mentioned something about reaching through the shoulder to pin the inner and outer yokes together, but that really wasn't necessary. I just sandwiched the front and back between the yokes as I usually do.

I particularly liked the in-seam pockets on the front. The sewing was a little fussy, but the pockets are worth the effort.

In-seam pocket

Betzina's instructions include encasing the seams on the pocket. Encasing the seams is what made the construction so fussy, but it was a nice touch.

In spite of the extra touches, this blouse went together quickly and easily. I'm sure I'll be making in again.

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Several times during PR Weekend, I overheard conversations like this:

"Is that Vogue 7636?"
"Yes! And you're wearing McCall 2094, aren't you! I have that pattern, but I haven't made it yet!"

I am amazed that people have the ability to recognize garments and blithely refer to them by pattern company and number! I usually have no idea of the pattern numbers of the clothes I make. Is it just me? When I used Big 4 patterns, I remembered the number only long enough to find it in the drawer. Case in point, Rose asked me about the top I was wearing and all I could say was "Burda". She told me that was like being asked what I had for breakfast and answering "eggs". Were they scrambled, poached, over easy – what? After searching my brain, I did remember that the issue was from 2011, possibly February, or maybe March, and that I mentioned it in my blog. Woefully inadequate, I know. I can't say from now on I'm going to try to remember the names of numbers of the patterns I use. My post-menopausal brain won't allow that But, I will be more diligent about putting identification labels in the garments – just in case.

PR Weekend 2011: Chicago

2011-05-16T18:06:00.005-04:00

When my daughter told her little college friends her mom was going to Chicago for a "sewing conference", they all laughed in that condescending, parents are so lame kind of way. But I bet every one of the over 100 PR Weekend attendees had more fun than those little college kids have ever had in their short little lives. And we didn't have to binge on alcohol to do it!!! (Although I did enjoy a very tasty sangria in the room next door!)

PR Weekend was great! The Chicago team did and excellent job of organizing events and allowed for just enough down time to socialize and prepare for the next fun event. The organizers added up the total yardage bought by the entire group. I don't remember the exact number, but it was a lot. And people bought even more fabric after the total was posted! I did my part to contribute to the grand total by buying eight pieces.

I just loved the way the colors undulated across this fabric from Vogue Fabrics. I'm not sure if it's rayon or cotton, but it will make a perfect hot weather dress. I plan to e-mail a picture to Vogue and ask about the fiber content. I bet I'll get an immediate response. Vogue has such great customer service.

This piece, also from Vogue, will become a dress. It was a recent offering in Vogue's swatch mailings and I didn't order it at the time. But, I have it now! I'm not sure about this content either, but it's a good weight for all seasons.

I love sewing linen and these two pieces, purchased from New Rainbow Fabrics, will also be dresses. I stalked Karen Teel, one of the organizers, and dragged her back to New Rainbow so she could show me exactly where she found the blue Italian linen.

I couldn't resist this cotton knit. It's a knit that will stay put for layout for cutting. I bought this at The Needle Shop, which had the best atmosphere and Feng Shui of any of the stores we visited. Every piece of fabric was cleverly displayed and visible. The store appeals to the new generation of sewing enthusiasts as well as more experienced sewers.

I wouldn't be me if I didn't get some matchy-matchy coordinating pieces. First, I bought the sheer cotton print (along with several other shoppers!) at Fishman's Fabrics. Later, at Vogue Fabrics, I found the bottom weight poplin and silk for a tank to be worn under the sheer cotton.

Needless to say, I am very happy with my Chicago fabrics. My goal for the weekend was to buy fabric for dresses and I definitely did that. One of my Online Sewing Buddies (and she knows who she is!!!) who didn't attend this PR Weekend teased me about not using bright colors or prints. These purchases should make her take back what she said! (wink)

On Saturday, we got up close and personal with several of Angela Wolf's couture pieces from her own personal wardrobe. I've always wondered about the quilted lining on Chanel-style jackets. Angela brought two examples and I was able to examine the nearly invisible quilting. Angela does a lot a beading on her pieces and I already have some ideas about adding beads to a dress I'm planning.

PR Weekends are special for many reasons. Of course, the shopping was fantastic. We got discounts at every store. I shouldn't have to buy any more fabric until September! And, I love that we gave a boost to independent stores. I'll never forget the big smile on the face of the owner of New Rainbow Fabrics. I'm sure we made a difference in his quarterly bottom line. Attendees spent over $1500 at Soutache Embellishments. And I met so many amazing people!! Cynthia and Karen were a hoot! Cennetta gave me parenting advice. Iris and Renee understood the awe I felt when I walked into Mood for the first time and made me salivate for Britex in San Fransisco. Sherrill and Ody hugged me every time I saw them made me feel like I had two lifelong friends I just hadn't met yet. I wish we could all get together more often. Anyone who has reservations about PR Weekends should definitely attend one. It's an incredible experience.

Illustrated Guide to Sewing: Garment Constrution

2011-05-11T08:00:00.197-04:00

I bought this book months ago after buying and loving two other books in the "Illustrated Guide to Sewing" series. I delayed my purchase of this book because I thought it would contain the same information as the introductory books I already own. Well, it does and it doesn't.

The introduction says, "These instructions are no doubt more detailed and demanding than those you are used to seeing, or those you found in your pattern envelope." These are probably the techniques my mother and grandmother used when they sewed. That's not necessarily a bad thing. For example, if I were sewing a blouse out of delicate lawn or handkerchief linen, I might use self fabric as an interfacing rather than a lightweight fusible. I would use the instructions for sew-in interfacing provided in this book. Garment Construction gives sewing instructions for five basic garments: Classic Dress, Classic Shirt, Classic Blouse, Classic Skirt, and Classic Pants (men's and women's). First, the order of assembly is given, then detailed construction directions for things like zippers, cuffs waistbands etc. This book is different because the techniques and methods are not the newest, fastest or easiest. As I read the book, I thought it would be a very good supplement for a beginning sewer who is brave enough to use the patterns in Burda Style Magazine. When BSM says "insert zip in slit", the sewer can turn to pp 108 – 109 and follow the 14 steps and detailed diagrams and instructions for a centered zipper absent from BSM instructions. Fourteen steps to insert a centered zipper isn't intimidating. Step 9 is simply "Close the zipper and turn the garment right side out."

I think of the methods in the book not as "old-fashioned", but as "traditional". These are probably the methods used by professional dressmakers of the past, when "ladies who lunch" had their clothes custom made. I wouldn't be surprised if custom dressmakers of the past saw the introduction of basting tapes and non-woven fusible interfacings as a dumbing-down of standard garment construction methods. However, I am tempted to try some of the methods. People use vintage patterns – why not vintage techniques?

The Path to the "Perfect T-Shirt"™

2011-05-04T08:00:00.027-04:00

1. It all started with a trip to London Textiles. I'd taken a few days off to celebrate my birthday and ended up at London Textiles in Cherry Hill, NJ.  I bought three pieces of knit fabrics. I'm trying to get over my reluctance to work with knit fabrics. I bought two pieces off the bolts for $8.00/yd and one piece from the remnant boxes for $4.00/yd.

2. On Saturday mornings, I sometimes watch "America Sews with Sue Hausmann". (I don't like it, but I watch it anyway.)   On this particular Saturday, Sue featured a product called Sew Slip which is used to make a slippery surface on the bed of the machine for free motion sewing. I've been practicing free motion quilting and I wanted the Sew Slip, but I didn't want to wait days for an online order to arrive. So, I decided to make phone calls to find a local seller.

3. The first store I called was Steve's Sew-n-Vac and they carried the Sew Slip. Steve's recently moved to a new location and I was looking for a good reason to go there and see the new store. Before the move, Steve's carried only quilting fabrics. They now have a small selection of garment fabrics. As a matter of fact, I noticed the same fabrics I'd bought at London Textiles and they were priced considerably higher than I paid.

4. I can't leave any sewing-related store without browsing around and while at Steve's, I noticed the display for Pamela's Patterns. I looked over the selection and saw #104, The Perfect T-Shirt. The simple pattern would be perfect for the knits I'd just bought at London Textiles. I decided to buy the pattern and accompanying instructional DVD.

5. I took my selections to the register and the associate thanked me for choosing the pattern. I thought, "Wow! What polite associates!" Then I found out why. It was Pamela Leggett herself of Pamela's Patterns.  We chatted about my knit issues and Pamela reiterated what everyone has been telling me; knits aren't a big deal. According to Pamela, if you're spending more than five minutes arranging your knit for lay-out, (and I was) you're doing too much.

6. I sewed the Perfect T-Shirt! Well, maybe not perfect, but pretty darn good! Minor alterations were needed.    Pamela demonstrates a "fit as you sew" approach on the DVD. This approach works only if you need to make something smaller. I used pivot and slide to add an inch to the bust area and I will enlarge the jewel neckline the next time (and there will be a next time) I make this top. This is a very basic pattern with no design details so I could focus on the actual sewing techniques. The pattern has three neckline variations and four sleeve lengths. The instructional DVD was helpful in that it provided demonstrations and information that is usually not in pattern sheets. For example, Pamela recommends blocking after sewing the neck band and the hem. I don't think I ever blocked a knit. But it makes a big difference that is evident on the DVD and on the actual garment. My problem with knits was that I expected them to behave like wovens.   I now respect the differences and I feel more confident about sewing knits.

Shopping With A Purpose

2011-04-27T08:00:00.036-04:00

My wardrobe has not evolved since I was eight years old. In fact, my wardrobe is less functional and varied now than it was way back then. When I was a child, my clothes fell into three categories: school clothes, Sunday dresses, and play clothes. In the early 60s, girls did not wear pants to school and my pants were considered play clothes. But I had school dresses and Sunday dresses. Today, the lines separating the categories have blurred. My work clothes and church clothes are essentially the same. Since I wear pants to work everyday, I own very few dresses. I've gone backward. It's sad.

This realization came to me while I was standing in front of my closet on a recent Sunday morning, looking for something to wear to church. I simply do not have enough dresses. Really, what beats a dress for quick and easy church dressing? A dress and necklace and I'm styled and ready to go! To address this challenge, I've decided to dedicate PR Weekend to dresses! SWAP now stands for Shopping With A Purpose! I can shop without stress because I'm freeing myself from my compulsion to buy coordinating fabrics for tops and bottoms. Any and all fabrics are open to me, yet I won't be overwhelmed because I'll have a specific goal. I've already identified several dress patterns, some for knits and some for wovens, so it will be very easy to assign patterns to fabric once I actually buy the fabric. All I have to do is find fabric I like. That won't be a problem. If I happen to see coordinates, I'll snatch them up, but dresses are my focus.

Now that I have this new definition of SWAP, I can't wait for PR Weekend!

Finished: BSM 03/2011 #139 & #140

2011-04-20T08:00:00.004-04:00

I've always been of fan of wearing knits, but I've never been a fan of sewing them. I don't like the way some knits refuse to be still and lay flat for pinning and cutting. Currently, I'm working on clothes to wear for PR Weekend. Since we are not staying in a conventional hotel, access to irons and ironing boards will be limited – a perfect reason for packing knits. So, this outfit served two purposes: having travel-friendly clothes for PR Weekend and getting over my knit-phobia.

Top: Burda Style Magazine 03/2011 #139
Over the past several months, I've noticed the plus size collections in Burda Style Magazine have moved away from "a collection of coordinating pieces" toward "variations on a theme". (I can't speak for regular size patterns.) As Big 4 patterns have done for decades, BSM now shows design details that can be mixed and matched on a basic design to make up a number of garments. I took advantage of this feature to make my top. I used the neckband and sleeve pockets on #139 and the body of #137.
By the way, I'm not entirely happy that BSM is getting more like the Big 4.

Pants: Burda Style Magazine 03/2011 #140
I used to complain loudly and often about the lack of diagrams in BSM instructions. Sometimes careful study of the technical drawings helped, but in this case, the drawings for #140 were misleading. The cargo pocket has a pleat in the front and on the bottom. The back of the pocket has no pleat and is edgestitched directly to the pants. This is not what is shown in the technical drawing. I knew this by looking at the pattern piece, which doesn't have an allowance for a pleat on the back. I got a bit confused trying to reconcile the technical drawing with the sewing instructions.

I have another knit top in the queue. If the knit is too wiggly and disobedient, I'll use Nancy K's suggestion and try cutting it in a single layer. I'm tired of not sewing knits and I'm determined to learn to love them.

Good News to Share

2011-04-11T20:13:00.000-04:00

We are lucky to have an excellent music teacher at Morton Elementary School in Philadelphia. Thanks to Mr. McVeigh, (and the Hamels Foundation) the Honors Chorus sang the National Anthem at the Phillies home opener earlier this month.

It was a wonderful opportunity for the students, many of whom had never attended a live sporting event, much less performed at one! The faculty and staff were very proud of and excited for our students.

Yes, reading and math test scores are important, but let's remember the music and art teachers who give students the opportunity to add something extra and beautiful to their lives.

T.G.I.F.

2011-04-06T08:00:00.003-04:00

It's considerably less than a SWAP, but Thank God It's Finished!

To quote the renowned philosopher, Forrest Gump, "That's all I have to say about that."

If You Fail to Plan ……

2011-03-30T08:00:00.034-04:00

I've always been the kind of person who needs a plan. Since the P in SWAP stands for Plan, I believed I could finish a SWAP. Several days ago, my SWAP felt more like a SWAMP and I didn't know how to move on. I wasn't enjoying the project, but I still was compelled to finish it. The problem was I had no direction – no plan.

The SWAmP was the last item in my queue and I felt lost not knowing what I was going to do next. I felt obliged to finish the wardrobe because I didn't have another project lined up. This problem was easily fixed. I had fabrics on hand and an occasion to sew for (PR Weekend) but, I hadn't assigned the fabrics to any patterns yet. So I spent a relaxing evening going through my pattern index and assigning patterns to fabrics. I added four projects to my queue; enough to keep me busy for weeks. Once I had goals and a direction, I was able to enjoy myself again.

In addition to formulating a plan, I took the advice of some commenters from my previous post. Charley gave me good advice. She said, "What if you sew it by outfit? Do one top/bottom/jacket then move to a different project and come back to the SWAP pieces and pick a skirt/top, etc." So, that is what I did. I already sewed the two blouses. I'd only have to finish the pants or skirt and I'd have a completed outfit. Best of all, I wouldn't feel like a failure. Once I decided on the pants, my mojo was freed and I got back on track. Then Carolyn, in her much appreciated, no-nonsense way, said, "Sometimes it's okay to put the fabric back in the bin and wait for the next season. If you need permission, then I'm giving you permission. Move on and sew spring because your hobby should make you happy not tense and uptight! :)". I happily put away the rest of the SWAP fabric and I'm ready begin the next projects in my newly revised queue!

Some People Just Shouldn't SWAP

2011-03-21T08:00:00.002-04:00

I've always found SWAPs fascinating. Imagine owning eight to ten coordinating pieces. Wow! I was inspired by SWAPs I'd seen on blogs, on Stitcher's Guild and on Pattern Review. I dreamed of the day I would sew my own SWAP. I found a group of suitable patterns. I found fabrics that worked together. I finally started the SWAP I'd dreamed about. Then I woke up.

Sewing a planned wardrobe has not been as much fun as I originally thought. I feel like I'm bogged down and plodding through quicksand. So much is working against me.

I just don't have the temperament for a SWAP. I prefer to work projects from beginning to end but I'll be bored to death if I stay with this SWAP. I may have to put it aside in order to save my sanity. I'm considering interspersing SWAP pieces among other projects. Following this schedule, it might very well be August by the time I finish my SWAP and that may make me crazier than if I stay with it until the end. I do much better when I can make two pieces - a top and a bottom - and move on. Two coordinating pieces is a SWAP in the broadest sense, isn't it?
So far, my blouse fabrics have not been user-friendly. The print fabric is very stable and the sleeve caps didn't ease well. The solid color fabric ravels and frays like crazy. I basted a pleat, then by the time I got back to it the fabric frayed beyond the line of basting and the pleat had disappeared. The fabric was heavily treated when I bought it. I had no way of knowing it would fray so badly until I got it home and washed it. Things will get better (I hope) when I get to the skirt, jacket and pants, which will be made from a lightweight wool crepe. This brings me to the next problem.
Time has not been on my side. Sewing wool crepe makes me think of Winter just when I'm finally seeing hints of Spring in southeastern Pennsylvania. (It hasn't snowed in almost a month!) After a miserable Winter, I want to sew Spring fabrics. I'm already looking ahead and planning pieces for PR Weekend in May. Yet here I am, fussing with 5 yards of wool crepe.

Once again, I learned what I already knew: SWAPs are not for me. Maya Angelou has been credited with saying, "When someone shows you who they are, believe them." I should have applied that advice to myself. I showed myself to be a sewer who prefers sewing outfits, not wardrobes. What made me believe I could sew an entire SWAP?

The Reason Why I Sew

2011-03-14T08:00:00.001-04:00

I needed a simple long sleeved blouse as a part of my Mini Swap. I looked through my BWOF index and even looked through McButterVogue catalogs. Nothing was exactly what I wanted. But wait! I'm sewing this top, right? I can do anything I want with it! Isn't that the reason why I sew? Doh! Huge head slap!

BWOF 05-2006-130 had the bones I wanted: long sleeves and no collar. All I had to do was shorten it and move the front opening to the back. The process for making a slit opening in the neckline was in Easy Guide to Sewing Tops and T-Shirts (Tilton, 1998) but since there was a slit opening already in the front of the top, I really didn't need to consult the book. But, I read it anyway to bolster my confidence.

There is a real possibility this wardrobe won't be finished in time to wear this season. This blouse is only the first piece in the wardrobe. I still have another blouse, pants, a skirt and a jacket to sew. The fabric for the skirt, pants and jacket is a light weight wool and would certainly qualify as a transition garment and that provides some motivation to keep working on this project. I've always suspected I didn't have the patience to finish a SWAP. Life has stolen a big chunk of my sewing time and I've almost lost interest in this project. So, I'm changing the purpose of this wardrobe. It has become a segue project until I can begin warm weather sewing. At the rate I'm sewing now, by the time I finish the four other pieces, it will be May!

Two New Books

2011-03-03T08:00:00.017-05:00

You have to love those guys at Amazon. Their targeted marketing is dead on. By now, Amazon knows I'll buy almost any sewing book. Every time I visit the Amazon site, I'm tempted with sewing books. At the top of every page I see, "Hello. We've got recommendations for you". Click the link, and I've got about 50 sewing titles to browse through (many of which I already own). I also get tempting emails. Recently, Amazon sent an email heralding new sewing books and that's how I learned about the Illustrated Guide to Sewing series. I'm glad Amazon knows me so well. I really like my two newest books.

Lately, any book with the word "couture" in the title interests me. I am on a mission to upgrade my skills and incorporate couture techniques into my sewing. In the absence of classes, what better way to learn something than to buy books on the topic. I like this book much better than the last book I bought on couture techniques. It's not a book for beginners or sewers looking for quick techniques. There are only three chapters in this book: Premium Fabrics, Getting the Right Fit and Couture Techniques, but a lot of information is covered. The sections on fit are quite extensive and cover topics like dolman and raglan sleeves. The book recommends making a muslin and using standard "slash and fold" pattern fitting. The couture techniques chapter never mentions fusible interfacing! Can you believe it? Interfacing sewn in by hand! (I guess real couturiers don't fuse.) And there is lots and lots of basting and thread tracing with illustrated instructions on several hand sewing stitches. And speaking of hand sewing stitches, the instructions for putting in a centered zipper involves very little machine sewing.

I also want to make a tailored garment. Since I was in a book buying mood, I also ordered this title. Somehow, making a tailored jacket scares the bejeezus out of me. I made a jacket a few years ago, but I've been afraid to wear it. The subtitle is "A Complete Course on Making a Professional Suit" and that is exactly what this book is. * I like this book because the sections on pattern fitting are not general fitting techniques but are specific to suit patterns. Men's and women's jackets are addressed separately. As in Couture Techniques, no fusible interfacing is mentioned. The step-by-step instructions are very detailed, almost to the point of intimidation. There are 69 steps for constructing a flap pocket. But there are tons of multi-colored diagrams to help.

These diagrams show twill tape, pad stitching interfacing and lining, yet they are not confusing.

Another title in this Illustrated Guide to Sewing series is Garment Construction. Those evil marketers at Amazon offered special pricing for all three titles. I didn't order Garment Construction, though. Not because of any strength of will, but because I felt confident in general garment construction and I already own four or five basic books. Besides, at the time I received the email, the book hadn't been released. But, judging from my reaction to Couture Techniques and Tailoring, there might be something new for me to learn from Garment Construction and I may end up buying it, too. I wouldn't want to break up the set!

Amazon lists Peg Couch as the editor of this series although her name does not appear on the title page. She is described as "an amateur seamstress and book acquisition editor at Fox Chapel Publishing". At first, I was put off by the word "amateur". But the information is these book is far beyond "amateur". Both books remind me of the articles that used to appear in Threads Magazine back in the 1980s. Right now the techniques seam beyond my skills. But now I have the information to improve my skills. That is exactly what I was looking for.

* I don't know if Peter of Male Pattern Boldness reads my blog. I believe he could sew the suit he promised Michael if he had this book.

Finished: KS 3586 BPF FW-09-404

2011-02-23T08:00:00.002-05:00

Blouse: Kwik Sew 3586
I've made this blouse a gazillion times. Nothing much to say about it. I've used this blouse pattern so many times because by now, I can sew it with my eyes closed. Gotta love those TNTs! Kwik Sews are especially amenable to becoming TNTs because they are so easy in the first place. I always seem to get wrinkles that go from the first button to the shoulders. I'm not at all sure what to do about it. Maybe it's my posture, maybe it's button placement. The second button is not buttoned and maybe that's the problem. I dunno.

Pants: Burda Plus Fashion FW-09-404
The last pair of pants I made were a little snug in the belly. I'd been in denial for the past few projects, but it was time to pull out Pattern Fitting with Confidence (Zieman, 2008) and pivot and slide a few pattern alterations. I lengthened the crotch, increased the waist and increased the thighs. The result was a more comfortable pair of pants. I could have done without the increased waist, so a small bit of my ego was salvaged. I took a chance and made these changes based not on actual measurements, but on my perception of my own body. I admit not measuring was a risk. I'm sure fitting purists would have been shocked. I recorded the flat pattern measurements and posted them on the bulletin board for future reference. But, I'll probably make slightly different adjustments when I make my next pair of pants. I'm treating every project like a muslin, which is not a smart practice.

Considering the number of pattern changes I made, I'm convinced the pivot and slide technique is the easiest method for pattern alterations. Yes, it took three tracings, but I buy tracing paper in 50 ft rolls. What else am I going to use it for?

Giving in to a Book Addiction

2011-02-09T08:00:00.021-05:00

My best friend is married to an addiction therapist. Given our personal connection, I wonder if he would be violating any professional ethics if he gave me a few sessions – gratis, of course – to help with my book addiction. On one hand, I'm giving away piles of Burda magazines because I simply don't have space to store them. At the same time, I'm buying more books. Isn't that a sign of addiction?

My most recent purchase was The Dressmaker's Handbook of Couture Sewing Techniques by Lynda Maynard. Whenever I think of couture techniques, I think of Claire Shaeffer, so I couldn't help comparing the two approaches to couture sewing. Many of the techniques in Maynard's book are not "couture" in the Claire Shaeffer sense of the word. Where Shaeffer's techniques are traditional and learned in a Paris atelier, Maynard's techniques seem more contemporary and bring to mind Fashion Week in New York. The techniques are divided into three categories:

Bindings and Finishes e.g. Banded V-neck on knit fabric, Banded V-neck on woven fabric, Piped double-fold bining on woven fabric, and Baby French binding
Design Details: On Show e.g. Channel-stitched accents, Petersham "Peek" seam, Hong Kong finish on the outside, and Button-on Garment Sections.
Design Details: Concealed e.g. Couture Waistband, Organza "Bubble" hem finish, balanced dart, and couture dart.

There is a chapter on Designer Underpinnings in which Maynard tells how fabrics can be "enhanced or inhibited by backing or underlining with various companion fabrics" and a chapter called Directory of Luxury Fabrics in which she describes fabrics and discusses applications and practical points. The final chapter is Essential Couture Techniques. This chapter includes the more traditional couture techniques such as French seams, hanging loops, hand bound buttonholes and covered snaps.

I like the way the book is organized. The first section of the book is a "couture technique selector" in which the included techniques are listed with short descriptions, thumbnail photographs and page numbers. I can browse the section, select the desired technique then flip to the directions in the body of the book. The instructions for the techniques are clear and the photographs enhance the instructions. I also like the spiral binding which allows the book to lay open next to the sewing machine for easy reference.

Maynard's book contains both style details and construction techniques. For example, there are several methods on applying binding to edges. One might find the same techniques in a comprehensive sewing book like Vogue Sewing, not a book on couture sewing. However the use of these techniques goes beyond the basic instructions and elevate the garments beyond typical home sewn garments.

I have never met a sewing book I didn't like and I admit I didn't need this book (especially since I plan to buy the revised and updated edition of Claire Shaeffer's book when it's released). But, I'm sure I will eventually use one or two of the techniques. After reserving it at Borders, I went to the store planning to look through it objectively and critically before making the purchase. I was fully prepared to walk away if it didn't meet my expectations. Who was I kidding? Isn't that the way an addict deludes herself? I was convinced I was meant to own this book when I got to the register, presented my Borders Rewards card, and got a 33% discount! After I buy Claire Shaffer's book, I won't buy any more sewing books – and I mean it.

I'm Down with OPP

2011-02-02T08:00:00.004-05:00

You down with OPP (Yeah you know me)
Who's down with OPP (Every last homie)
You down with OPP (Yeah you know me)
Who's down with OPP (All the homies)

From O.P.P. by Naughty by Nature

Author's Note: My definition of OPP is infinitely cleaner than Naughty by Nature's definition. I mean Other People's Projects. And I'm more "ambivalent" than "down".

Gingham toddler jumper

My OPPs are few and far between. I sew for a sewing ministry that was started at my church. I'm thankful that I have a skill and passion for sewing and the means to indulge it. I believe the best way to demonstrate my gratitude is to sew for the ministry. (Remember the Parable of the Talents). Our primary purpose is to make clothes for infants and toddlers in shelters, but we've also sewn walker bags for a seniors in an assisted living facility owned by our church. I feel good after the sewing is finished, but in the back of my mind I'm thinking, "I can't wait to get back to my own sewing!" Clearly, my motives need adjustment. Thoughts like that defeat the purpose of sewing for a ministry.

Crib quilt and dust ruffle draped over the coffee table

My other OPPs are baby's room accessories for my sister and my soon-to-be-nephew. My sister was so excited when, after a long and disappointing search, she finally found fabric she loved for the baby's room. Her happiness was contagious. I sent her a picture of the crib quilt when I finished it and she called me back immediately to tell me I was "the best big sister in the world"! I could hear her smile over the phone.

Which brings me to my point. OPPs aren't bad when they are appreciated. I am happy to be sewing for children in shelters and my pregnant sister. Even when sewing for unappreciative clods, I'm building good Karma. These occasional projects keep things in perspective and force me to tame that little selfish sewer inside of me. Most sewers readily admit that OPPs can be a PITA and we do as few of them as possible. But I think we enjoy the feeling of making someone else happy and sewing for a greater good.

Sewing at The Overlook Hotel

2011-01-28T12:00:00.011-05:00

Remember Stephen King's "The Shining"? The protagonist, played by Jack Nicholson, goes crazy while snowed in and isolated at The Overlook Hotel. It's beginning to feel a little like The Overlook Hotel around here. After being snowed in for two days, I decided to get rid of 18 back issues of Burda World of Fashion Magazine (Jun. 2004 - Dec. 2005). That decision made me wonder about my sanity.

As I ran out of storage space, I wondered how I was going to continue to store my growing collection of BWOFs. I moved them from the bookcase to the closet, but that was a temporary fix. The issue had to be confronted. The solution came to me in a flash – "It's time to get rid of those old BWOFs" – and I acted on it before I could change my mind.

I don't want to be seen on "Clean House" or those other shows about pathological hoarders. As I removed pages from my index binder and the magazines from the expanding files, I realized how few of the patterns I'd actually sewn. I didn't want to bother selling them on eBay, Craigslist or Pattern Review. That would just be continuing to feed the obsession. It was time for drastic measures. I didn't get rid of any traced patterns from those old issues (yet), just the excess magazines and pattern sheets. It was liberating. I've decided to limit my Burda collection to 5 years so I will still have plenty of old issues to look through. Now that I've done this initial purge, it won't be so difficult the next time.

I know being housebound played a big part in this decision, but I don't regret it. Still, the sooner I get out of the house, the better.

UPDATE!

KoLa RoTh's comment has given me an idea. This offer is perfect for people who have never tried Burda and would like to. I will give away the magazines I planned to throw away. These are not complete issues. They are only the instructions and the pattern sheets – not the glossy magazine section. However, the instructions include technical line drawings of each pattern so you can see what the garments look like. The patterns are old – July 2004 to December 2005. You can request a specific issue, but I may or may not be able to honor your request. I will randomly select an issue while supplies last. This offer is First Come, First Served.

If you can live with all of these stipulations, send me an email with your mailing address. My email is given in the sidebar. As KoLa RoTh said, this is a good opportunity to try Burda Magazine patterns for the first time. The first 18 Burda Newbies who respond get the patterns.

Finished: Burda 7670 and Burda 8283

2011-01-26T08:00:00.008-05:00

Blouse: Burda 7670

Pattern Description:
Long sleeved blouse with front and back panels. Princess seams originate at the shoulder in the front and the yoke in the back. The pattern also includes a camisole and a longer shirt.

Pattern Sizing:
European sizes: 44 - 60

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
In this blouse, I wanted to do something with the stripes. This pattern, with it's front and back panels was perfectly suited for what I had in mind. I accosted a co-worker when I saw her striped blouse with some sections cut on the bias. I made a note on the direction of the stripes and duplicated it on my blouse.

Fabric Used:
I used a cotton shirting for this blouse. I took a drive to Fabric Mart's brick and mortar store and bought this fabric and fabric for the coordinating pants.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I've sewn this blouse one or two times before and I'll probably sew it again. It's a classic long sleeved design.

Conclusion:
I enjoyed manipulating the stripes in this blouse. It was a simple change that added a little visual interest to an otherwise plain blouse.

Pants: Burda 8283

Pattern Description:
Fly front pants with side pockets and waist darts.

Pattern Sizing:
European 36 - 50
US 10 - 24

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Most of my pants are a variation on this theme.

Fabric Used:
Wool gabardine.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I used petersham to face the waistband. I want to make a petersham faced waistband part of my arsenal and this attempt was more successful than my last attempt. The inside looks neater, but I still need to work on the technique a little more. I'm not sure if I'll continue to use it.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
This has become a TNT pants pattern. And to think, I didn't used to have TNTs – now I have several.

Finished: Burda 7882 & BPF FW-09-404

2011-01-12T08:00:00.007-05:00

While making this outfit, I had renewed determination to do the best job I could.

No shortcuts!

"No shortcuts" does not mean "no problems". There still were glitches – some of them major.

Blouse: Burda 7882
I bought this pattern a year or two ago expressly to alter it. I needed practice restyling patterns so I turned a bib front blouse into an ordinary button front blouse. (Kinda backwards. Why would I alter a pattern to omit a nice design detail and make it more boring?) Anyway, this time I left well enough alone and made the blouse with the pin tucked bib. Since I was committed to the "no shortcut" process, I thread traced the fold lines for the tucks and pressed and sewed them one at a time using my edge stitch foot. The extra effort was minimal and I was happy with the results. I ~~obsessed about~~ carefully considered the size of the buttons on the blouse. They seemed too large to me. Every time I looked at the blouse, my eyes were immediately drawn to buttons that looked big enough for a clown costume. I solicited opinions on Pattern Review and Stitcher's Guild. No one agreed with me. Apparently, I'm the only person obsessed enough to worry about the size of the buttons. Most people thought I was nuts, but were too kind to say so directly. Okay. I accept that.

Pants: BPF FW-09-404
The pants were a disaster. It's hidden by the blouse, but I could barely fasten the pants around my belly. I'll probably never wear them and that's a shame because I love the fabric. In an attempt to upgrade the finished pants, I used petersham to face the waistband as recommended in Power Sewing Step by Step (Betzina, 2002) and Making Trousers for Men & Women (Coffin, 2009). Call me crazy, but I think using the petersham made the waistband smaller. I never had this problem before I used petersham in the waistband.

From Power Sewing Step by Step

Betzina recommended shaping the petersham before using it as a waistband facing. This, she says, allows the stretched edge to fit over the tummy. I didn't do that, and sure enough, the waist didn't fit over my tummy. (That's my story and I'm sticking to it.) I've made these pants in the past and I'm pretty sure they fit. Truth is, I made changes in pocket construction that could have affected the fit. And could the problem possibly be my tummy? (See that elliptical machine behind me in the picture? I'd better start using it more!) I'll make some alterations to give me more room, but these pants may end up in Wadderville. What disappoints me most is now I'm less enamored of the petersham waist facing treatment. That bothers me because I wanted to use the method to add some class to my pants. I can work out the glitches in the petersham waist band by doing some experimenting on some throw-away fabric.

In spite of the disastrous results on the pants, I'm still committed to "No Shortcut" sewing and I'm determined to keep trying to make better garments. I can get cheaply made clothes anywhere. I don't have to spend time making them myself.

How I Spent My Christmas Vacation

2011-01-05T08:00:00.067-05:00

A civilized accumulation in the back yard

We had a wonderful Christmas with my youngest sister in Charlotte, NC. Charlotte had only 3 or 4 inches of snow on the day after Christmas and it stuck only to the lawns. Not so in Philadelphia, which had it's first blizzard of the season. Since I hate snow with a passion that burns hotter than the fires of hell, I decided we should stay and experience Charlotte's civilized snowfall for two extra days. Why come home and deal with the immediate aftermath of a blizzard? It would have killed all the warm, fuzzy holiday feelings from the aftermath of Christmas. Instead, I indulged myself with sewing related activities even though I was far from my sewing room.

Shopping for Fabric
My sister and her husband are expecting a son in Spring and I agreed to sew the baby room stuff! On Christmas Eve, we went to Mary Jo's in Gastonia, NC to search for the fabric. Mary Jo's is huge!!!! Hard to believe, but even with the tons of fabric in the store, Little Sis didn't find anything she really loved. I found a piece suitable for my mini-SWAP, so I was happy. My eight-year-old niece found a piece of minkee to use as a TV-watching-cuddle-up blanket, so she was happy. Only Little Sis was disappointed. Two days later while she was at work, I went on a solo reconnaissance mission to Sew Much Fun in Charlotte and sent a few pictures of possibilities to her cell phone. Still, nothing. I can't go into a fabric store and not buy anything, so I bought a package of Wonder Tape as seen on the Sewing Toolbox DVD (see below) and two packs of charm squares (20% off!) for a future quilting project. Our last chance was Hobby Lobby. There are no Hobby Lobbies in my area and I was curious about them. For me, it's too much of a craft/decorating store and not enough of a fabric store. But that wouldn't stop me from shopping there if I had one. Little Sis found just what she wanted, but there wasn't enough yardage on the bolt. Luckily, she was able to order the amount she needed. In addition to the stripe pictured, she ordered dots in the same colorway. The brown minkee is for the crib quilt. Mission accomplished.

Sewing Books for Christmas

I got both volumes of Sandra Betzina's Power Sewing Toolbox for Christmas. The books are full of just what the subtitle promises: "tips/techniques not found in patterns". I'm guessing the content is from the Power Sewing webcasts available by subscription on the Power Sewing website. (I am not a subscriber.) The books are very capably reviewed by Sharon on Adventures from the Sewing Studio. I have nothing to add except I think the books are definitely a "must have." Having the books and accompanying DVDs made up for being so far away from my sewing machine.

If I had been snowed-in at home, I would have spent long days in the sewing room and that would have been wonderful. But I didn't feel cheated. There was lots of fabric shopping and I had two new sewing books to read. Best of all, I got to spend Christmas with a small part of my extended family which made this Christmas more like the Christmases I remember.

Finally: A Plan

2010-12-30T08:00:00.002-05:00

I've wanted to sew a SWAP for years, but I knew I couldn't sustain the motivation to sew up to eleven! count 'em, 11! pieces that worked together. I settled on a mini-SWAP as an alternative. Even with the bar lowered, I didn't have patterns that cried out to be sewn into a collection. But then, the stars and planets aligned and the patterns fell into my lap - or out of my mailbox, to be more accurate. The January 2011 issue of BurdaStyle contained a pattern collection that just might work!

The colors are actually much richer than shown.

I already had the main fabric. Way back in March 2010 I bought five yards of a crepe-looking wool blend. At the time, I had no idea what I would do with it, but it was on sale at JoMar for $1.60 a yard and I couldn't walk away. The quest for the blouse fabric took me back to JoMar and I found a coordinating solid. I wanted to include a simple collarless blouse or knit top to wear under the jacket. I thought I'd found the fabric – a solid cream colored silky polyester, similar to the mauve. When I got home from JoMar, I realized I was missing that cut of fabric. I laid my fabrics down while Annette, Karen and I searched through three bins of buttons and I must have left it next to the bins and gone to the register without it. I learned two lessons from that little mistake:
1. pay closer attention to what I'm doing
2. the cream color was just too boring.
I really wanted a knit anyway.

So, my first mini-SWAP wardrobe collection has been added to the queue! For me, a SWAP or four or five pieces is motivating, while eleven pieces is downright frightening. Hopefully, I'll get to it before Winter ends.

Parting shot:

This photo shows the fabric colors better, but there was a big, gray piece of fur on the fabric that I couldn't edit out.

"Hack!"

2010-12-22T08:00:00.043-05:00

Hack: 1. Someone in the film industry, usually a director, who works on projects solely for financial reasons, rather than creative reasons. 2. a person who is a professional at doing some sort of service, but does crappy work.

edited from Urban Dictionary

I'm in danger of becoming a "sewing hack". I'm churning out countless garments without stretching my skills or creativity. It's time for a change. Currently, I'm working on another pair of fly front pants. Only this time, I'm using new-to-me techniques from Making Trousers for Men and Women (Coffin, 2009) and from Easy Guide to Sewing Pants (McIntyre, 1998).

The first challenge was a modification on the hip yoke pocket. I based my technique on that described in Easy Guide to Sewing Pants and I extended the pattern piece all the way to the cut edge on the fly extension.

I've done this before and I'll use this modification again, but with a shorter extension. If I'm using self-fabric, the extension doesn't need to be as long as the zipper opening. That just adds more of the bulk I'm trying to remove. Another option would be to use the method described in Making Trousers for the front pockets. The front pockets are made of lining fabric and faced with self fabric only where the facing/lining would be visible. This would also remove bulk.

Next, I wanted to reduce bulk at the waistband. Coffin recommends petersham ribbon rather than self-fabric to face the waistband. Real petersham ribbon (not grosgrain ribbon) wasn't easy to find in the local brick and mortar stores. I found two online sources: Judith M and Vogue Fabrics Online Store.

The petersham makes a great waistband facing. It's firm and provides a good deal of support. I was so eager to sew, I didn't remember to shape the petersham at the ironing board first. This resulted in a little wonkiness on the outside, but it's a negligible wonkiness. I like this technique too, but I need to work on it a little more.

I intend to up my game and try new techniques to avoid becoming a hack. Maybe my mojo occasionally leaves me because it's bored. Instead of blindly following the instructions, I need to look at every project and decide the best way to construct the garment. A funny thing – when researching online for information on the new methods, I found references to books already on my bookshelf! I had all the information I needed to avoid hackiness (hacknicity?), but I wasn't using it. Sewing is a journey and I've been on the same road much too long. I can continue to use familiar methods over and over or I can challenge myself and actually learn something!

Check Me Out!

2010-12-16T06:33:00.001-05:00

My serger had to go into the shop for a little maintenance, so I've been working on a quilt.
But ……… my sewing room is featured on Blue Gardenia's Blog! What an honor!

Open on Saturday!

2010-12-08T08:00:00.071-05:00

I've always wished I could shop in NYC's Garment District more often. I was operating under a misconception. In my mind, a Garment District shopping trip meant taking a day off work because most stores were closed on Saturday. I had evidence to back this up. I was told many of the stores honor the Jewish Sabbath. I'd shopped in the Garment District on Saturdays, but special arrangements were made. Metro Textiles opened when Karen promised and delivered fabric shoppers with money to burn. Then, Elizabeth convinced Metro Textiles and Elliot Berman to open on Saturday for a large group of eager shoppers. Annette of FabriCate & Mira recently visited the Garment District on a weekday and she noted many more stores were open on weekdays. So, based on my limited experiences and information, I assumed a shopping trip on any given Saturday would be disappointing. Thankfully, my eyes have been opened. I don't know how or why I allowed myself to believe otherwise, but I can have a meaningful shopping experience on a Saturday. I found this out by reading Lindsay T's Shop the Garment District website. True, Metro Textiles and Elliot Berman are closed, but eight out of the eleven featured stores have Saturday hours. Most of the trim stores are also open. I am no longer limited to the dwindling number of independent fabric stores in the Philadelphia area. I can jump on a train any Saturday. I'm sure I could convince the other Philadelphia fabric friends to come along.

See Shop the Garment District for more information.

It's funny how you get a wrong idea in your head and convince yourself that it is the truth. I wish I'd come to this realization sooner. I don't see a shopping trip in the near future. It's almost Winter and I do my best shopping when I'm not freezing to death. But, another Spring is coming and if my budget implodes because of fabric purchases, I can always blame Lindsay T and her website. I consider Lindsay T a friend and if you can't deflect blame to your friends, then what are friends for?

Finished: Burda Plus Fashion FW-07-404 & 405

2010-12-01T08:00:00.011-05:00

This outfit represents the last of the fabric I bought during PR Weekend 2010. I can't believe I held on to it for five months! I knew I wouldn't be sewing them until the Fall even though I bought them in May. But still - five months?!?

Top BPF FW-07-404

The right side of this fabric has a velour-like pile and the wrong side looks like a knit. It reminds me of a less beefy version of a velour bathrobe. (I'm amazed at what I don't know about fabric!) Patterns don't get any simpler than this: three pieces – front, back and sleeve. This top was shown using a sweater knit so the neckline was not bound, but turned in. I added a french binding to the neckline because I prefer that look. I also move the neckline up about 1/2 inch. Otherwise, this top would have been just too easy! This is going to be a TNT top for me. In the winter, I live in jeans and knit tops. This pattern will definitely get used for more knock-around tops. I'm determined to sew more knits and this simple pattern is a good one to use.

Pants BPF FW-07-405A

For some reason, the designers decided these pants needed a sewn-on fly facing. Since I already took a walk on the wild side when I changed the neckline on the top, I threw caution to the wind and decided against the sewn-on fly facing. I just taped the extension pattern piece to the front and continued happily. The fabric is rather heavy and a sewn on fly facing would have resulted in extra bulk at the fly.

A recent post on Nancy K Sews caused me to think about waistbands. I pulled out Making Trousers for Men and Women (Coffin, 2009), read the information and studied the samples on the accompanying DVD-ROM. More often than not, the waistband was faced with petersham or lining fabric rather self fabric. Since I didn't plan for any waistband modifications for these pants, I didn't have any petersham or lining fabric on hand. I used bias binding on the bottom the the inner waistband. I like the look, but the waistband is still bulky. I am definitely going to investigate further so I can produce a less bulky waistband.

I was able to finish this outfit relatively quickly. I fought a cold for most of the long Thanksgiving weekend. The cold won so, except for Thanksgiving Day and a few quick but necessary errands, I stayed home and spent most of my time in the sewing room.

Finished: Blouse BSM 02-10-137 Pants BSM 92-09-132A

2010-11-24T08:00:00.002-05:00

Backstory: Karlin's in Philadelphia used to be a great independent fabric store. Back in the late 70s/early 80s, when I subscribed to Butterick's pattern magazine, Karlin's was usually listed on the "Where to Buy" page as a store to purchase the fabrics featured in the magazine. But, like many other independent fabric stores, Karlin's fell on hard times. The store remained open, but the shelves and tables were nearly empty and I seldom found anything I wanted to buy. Lately, things have begun to look up. New inventory appeared and the prices were more than reasonable. I picked up the dark teal stretch twill for the pants on a day I was in town for an appointment. I didn't find fabric for a top, but I was so happy to find something worth buying, I bought the teal twill anyway. Then, I went to Elizabeth's Late Summer NY Garment District Shopping Day with very specific objectives, one of which was to find blouse fabric to match the teal twill. I found the perfect silk oxford cloth at Mood. (Thanks, Mood!) That's how this latest outfit was born.

Blouse: I made this pattern before - as a dress and as a blouse. When I made the dress, I mangled the bottom of the placket. This time, I consulted The Sewing Book (Smith, 2009) and I got a pretty decent placket. (Sometimes I'm amazed at how little I use all the sewing books on my shelves!) I marked and stay-stitched the seam line before attaching the placket. After the placket was sewn on, I carefully clipped to the corners, which were reinforced by the stay-stitching. The fabric is silk oxford cloth. I never knew silk oxford cloth existed, but silk comes in so many weaves, I shouldn't be surprised. This fabric looks like ordinary oxford cloth but it has a little sheen to it. I omitted the pleated trim around the placket and cuff.

Pants: When I bought the fabric for the pants, I didn't realize it was only 45" wide. I couldn't use the pattern I originally selected. My Burda index really came in handy. I flipped through the pages and found a pattern that required less fabric. The pants have a simple design and their construction presented no problems or surprises.

What I Learned: I don't have to buy coordinating fabrics at the same time. I worry about having garments that can't be worn with anything, so I try to prevent that by buying coordinating pieces of fabric. In this case, I bought the two fabrics months apart and in two different states and the sky didn't fall. Hmmmmm. I wonder if this is how stashes get started.

Guess What I'll Be Sewing!

2010-11-22T14:40:00.001-05:00

My brother-in-law took my niece to visit her paternal grandmother in New York last weekend. See what happens when you go shopping with Da and Gran-Gran?

I'm actually looking forward to sewing
American Girl clothes. Jada has about 1,826 Build-a-Bears (well, it seems like 1,826.) In the interest of full disclosure, I'm pretty sure I bought the first bear (my sister still blames me) and I haven't made one outfit for any of them. I would have had to draft a pattern for a bear! I'm not that good yet. But there are already so many patterns available for American Girls. I bought a pattern as soon as I learned Jada was going to American Girl Place! Gran-Gran is an extremely talented seamstress, so I'm sure Jada's American Girl will be the best dressed doll in North Carolina.

My own daughter never really played with dolls. She had a couple of Barbies and a Cabbage Patch Kid but she was more into sports and science when she was doll-playing age. I made Barbie clothes one Christmas when she was about three. I had mixed feelings about the project because I object to Barbie on certain levels. And, it's not easy sewing clothes for a doll with a three inch waist. But now I finally have the chance to sew real doll clothes! I'm so excited!

Couture Techniques Workshop

2010-11-17T08:00:00.010-05:00

This may become my favorite sewing DVD, which is not surprising because Claire Shaeffer is one of my favorite sewing experts. Couture Techniques Workshop: Basics really demonstrates the difference between home sewing and couture sewing. I've heard about professors at design schools using "home sewn" as the ultimate put-down. Now I understand why. Home sewing, even when done by the most talented and skilled practitioners, and couture sewing are two different animals. In the introduction, Shaeffer stated she rarely has time to make a garment using only couture techniques. Instead, she recommends using the techniques where they will make the most difference.

Two discs are included. Four of the seven chapters on Disc One covered various hand sewing techniques: Basting Stitches, Permanent Stitches, Slip Stitches and Hemming Stitches. On Disc Two, Shaeffer demonstrated marking, pressing, shrinking, stretching and how to make bars and chains. Thanks to excellent camera close-ups, I clearly saw how various stitches are made. Shaeffer used many couture garments to illustrate the various techniques. In addition to her own designs for Vogue, she opened up pieces from Chanel, Valentino and other couturiers of the 60s and 70s. Shaeffer used wool crepe to demonstrate most of the techniques. That has always been one of my favorite fabrics and if (I mean "when") I make a jacket using some of these couture techniques, wool crepe will be my choice.

Many current and popular sewing books and videos teach how to make clothes "fast and easy". I look for resources that teach how to make clothes "well" and this DVD does exactly that. Using even a few of the techniques will make the clothes I sew look like expensive ready-to-wear, if not couture. I'm okay with that. This DVD inspired me to incorporate couture techniques into my home sewing and improve the quality of the garments I sew.

An Obsessive Sewer Obsesses About Thread

2010-11-11T08:00:00.013-05:00

Most basic books on sergers advise against trying to match looper thread to the fabric. A more economical approach, these books say, is to buy cones of neutral colors that can blend with, rather than match the fabric. An Obsessive Sewer like me cringes at such a suggestion. Matching thread is the latest obsession I've chosen to indulge.

It started with the Gutermann thread sale at Atlanta Thread Supply. When sewing woven fabrics, in addition to the conventional machine, I use the five thread stitch on my serger: two-thread chain stitch + three-thread overlock. I thought the 1100 yard spools (sale price - $1.85) would be a perfect way to buy matching thread to be used for the overlock stitch. I'd have over 700 colors from which to choose. I downloaded the color chart from the ATS site, but I didn't trust it. The colors changed from monitor to printer and neither matched the color chart printed in the catalog. So, I spent $18 on the Real Thread Gutermann Color Chart. My plan was to use the Real Thread chart to select matching thread to be used for the overlock stitch and get thread for the chain stitch and conventional machine by shopping my thread stash or buying it from JoAnn. I'd have five spools that matched the fabric and each other perfectly.

I went to JoAnn and bought regular spools of Gutermann for my next project. When I got home, I compared the thread I'd just bought with the samples on the chart. The label on the spool said #639, but it did not match the sample #639 from the chart on which I'd just spent $18. I started to get nervous. Using the chart, I'd just selected and ordered eighteen spools (for my next several projects) and spent over $30. What if none of the thread matched the fabrics? I had no choice but to wait for the thread to arrive from ATS. It was an obsessive sewer's nightmare.

I needn't have worried. The threads I ordered from ATS matched the colors on the chart, and therefore the fabric. The threads I bought at JoAnn did not match the chart, but more importantly, they matched the fabric. I can't explain why the thread I bought at JoAnn's did not match the samples on the color chart. Apparently the numbering systems are not the same. But all of the spools matched the fabric and my obsessive soul was happy.

Now, how would I store all of this fantastic matching thread? The answer was in my supermarket. I bought small square snack storage containers that are the perfect size for keeping three matching spools together among the cones of thread in a large bin.

Now, if I could only convince ATS to have the 1100 yd spools permanently on sale, life would be perfect!

Burda Plus Fashion: FW-10-413

2010-11-02T17:16:00.000-04:00

Pattern Description: Long sleeved blouse with front and back waist darts and notched collar.

Pattern Sizing: European plus sizes: 46 - 54

Were the instructions easy to follow? I was concerned about the directions for the notched collar. I remember reading on another blog how to handle this type of collar. Unfortunately, I didn't remember the blog and I had to figure it out on my own. My solution was very simple. I sewed the notch first and then trimmed the seam allowance rather than try to trace the seam allowance onto such a small notch. This is the point where tracing pattern pieces was a disadvantage. I'm sure if the pieces were already printed, the collar pattern piece would have looked just like the piece I traced. Instead, I had to look at the notch and wonder "How the heck am I supposed to add a seam allowance to that!?!" before I realized I didn't have to add a seam allowance at all. It goes without saying: Burda directions offered little, if any, help.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the collar. I also liked the more fitted silhouette.

Fabric Used: I bought this fabric at the Fall PR Shopping day at the end of August. According to the sales associate at Elliot Berman in NYC, this fabric is French cotton. It had a stiffer hand than I expected in a cotton. It reminded me of chintz and the needle left holes in the fabric.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:One of the things I love about Burda is that I usually don't have to make any pattern alterations. I might have given myself a little extra room in the belly, but it was more of a preference than a necessity.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I'd like this blouse in a solid color. I'm sure I'll sew it again.

How Far is Too Far?

2010-10-26T16:41:00.000-04:00

Back in the olden days, when cigarette advertising was everywhere, Camel had a popular slogan. I thought about this slogan while I planned my most recent fabric shopping excursion. Just how far would I go to shop for fabric?

Fabric Mart's brick and mortar store is in Sinking Spring, PA. According to Mapquest, this is 64.88 miles from my door. Sixty-five miles is a little far to drive to a fabric store. I needed additional enticement. I found just the lure I needed when I looked more closely at the map and realized Sinking Spring is right next to Reading, PA, the home of the original outlet mall. Discounted fabric! Outlet shopping! Suddenly 65 miles seemed a lot closer! Fabric Mart is not open on weekends, so I was forced to ditch work for this outing. My rationale (as if I needed one to ditch work) was I'd be getting some Christmas shopping done early at the outlet center. While the plan was in the back of my mind for weeks, the actual execution came about suddenly. The workload of my second job decreased unexpectedly and I was able to adjust my schedule and travel to Reading.

The Fabric Mart brick and mortar store is not big and glamorous like the chain stores, yet it's not dark and cramped like some of the stores on Philadelphia's Fabric Row. Many of the Fabric Mart's online offerings are on the sales floor. The organized shopper can peruse the web site, jot down numbers and take the list of numbers to the store. Additionally, I was invited to look in the back room where the online orders are filled. Most of these fabrics were not displayed on the sales floor.

I found a few basics to take home with me. I bought two pieces of worsted wool gabardine and coordinating shirt fabrics.


Navy Blue wool – Blue & white stripe

Charcoal Gray wool – burgundy, pink & gray stripe

So, how far is too far? If Fabric Mart were closer and open on weekends, I'd be there once or twice a month. While 65 miles is too far for me to drive for casual fabric shopping, Fabric Mart is a good option for the times I want to buy several pieces of fabric in one trip.

Finished: Burda Plus Hybrid Blouse

2010-10-18T08:00:00.003-04:00

First, I need to rant just a little.

These blouses are from Burda Plus Fashion Spring/Summer 2010. It's evident that these three blouses are basically the same and, except for design details, would use the same pattern pieces. The bib insert on 423 and 425 has pin tucks. One would expect those tucks to be indicated on the pattern pieces. One would think the bib insert pattern piece in 423 and 425 would have to be wider to allow for the fabric taken up by the tucks. Apparently, Burda doesn't think so. Burda has you tuck a rectangle they call a "dickey front" and the cut the pattern piece from that. Sounds reasonable, but a few years ago I made a BWOF dress with pin tucks on the cuff and a similar technique was used. I assumed (and I know what happens when we "assume") the extra length would be drafted into the pattern piece. But it wasn't. Another part of the problem was Burda's use of the term "dickey front". I defined a dickey as a false shirtfront, not whatever Burda had in mind. This made understanding the directions a bit of a challenge. I was really glad I opted out of the pintucked front.

Okay, rant is finished.

My blouse is a hybrid of the available designs. I used the collar, cuffs and shirttail hem from 425, the non-tucked bib (without the pleated trim) from 424 and the topstitched front placket from 423. I used a wonderful silk fabric. It is so light and comfortable, it feels like I'm not wearing anything! The construction was straightforward. The cuff should have been tapered to a point. Burda gives dimensions for a rectangle. The last time I tried tapering a cuff, I got the proportions wrong and it looked a little strange, so I kept the rectangular shape. For some reason, the buttonholes were horizontal. I'm a "follow the rules" type, so I made the horizontal buttonholes. It feels weird buttoning horizontal buttonholes when I'm used to vertical buttonholes. If I ever see horizontal buttonholes again, I'm going to get really wild and adventurous and (gasp!) change them to vertical buttonholes.

This is just the type of blouse I like wearing to work and I would like to make this blouse again in a different fabric. It would be nice to find a nice brightly colored silk. I might even try the pintucks on the bib.

Finished: BS 04-10-140 and BS 02-10-136

2010-10-04T08:00:00.008-04:00

The Shirt: I like this shirt, but not necessarily with this skirt. I think it's great as a knock-around shirt worn with jeans. But, it might be too slouchy to work with the a skirt, even one as casual as this one. Luckily, I have a RTW tee shirt that is more fitted and that I can wear with the skirt. The shirt was very easy to sew; even with the eighteen buttons. It can be sewn in an evening. The sleeves are a little long and are probably intended to be worn pushed up. I do intend to make this shirt again.

The Skirt: Those familiar with BurdaStyle know how much the designers love plunging necklines. Knowing how low the necklines tend to be, imagine what those ~~freaks~~ folks at Burda do with a walking pleat/slit in the front and back of a skirt. I solved the problem by sewing the inside of the front and back pleats closed for about three inches. I can still walk comfortably, but I'm not "showing off the good china" as Peach on Project Runway so cleverly put it. Once again, I chose a print fabric that obscured the design details of the garment. I really like the cargo pocket, but I can't see it in the finished skirt. I guess I'll just have to make the skirt again using a solid khaki.

Why Can't a Knit Be More Like a Woven?

2010-09-27T08:23:00.002-04:00

Even though I don't agree with his opinion, I totally get Prof. Henry Higgins's frustration when, in My Fair Lady, he asked why a woman couldn't be more like a man. I feel the same way about knit fabrics.

Why can't a knit be more like a woven?

Wovens are stable, they're so easy to square.

A joy to sew! There's nothing to compare.

And when you move it, it's likely to stay flat.

Why can't a knit be more like that!

(Apologies to Alan Jay Lerner)

Knits and wovens are definitely different. Sewers who can crank out knit garments are a mystery to me. I can't get my knits to behave. After successfully sewing a knit dress, I wanted to make a top from the February 2010 issue of BurdaStyle magazine. I bought a red 2-way stretch knit that coordinated beautifully with a black and red denim print from my collection. When I was ready to lay out and cut, the knit just would not cooperate. I know (because I read it in Sewing with Knits by Connie Long) knits curl up at the edges and that they are supposed to curl toward the right side. This knit curled toward both sides! The curling subtracted 3 inches from the width of the fabric. The pieces barely fit on the fabric!!!!! In certain light, one side looked like the right side; in different light, the other side looked more like the right side. Even folding the fabric was a problem. It was impossible to fold the fabric squarely because the edges were so rolled-up I coudn't find them, much less align them. Grrrrr!

After about 15 minutes of trying to fold the fabric and cursing under my breath, I gave up. Maybe I should have been more patient. Maybe I should have researched ways to handle 2-way knits. But, I was too frustrated to be patient. I solved the problem by ordering a different knit, an interlock from Gorgeous Fabrics. I've sewn interlocks before and I don't remember cursing so much and being so frustrated. The new red fabric was easier to work with and was a better match for the red in my denim print. Gorgeous Fabrics saved the day!

BurdaStyle Magazine 05/10 #137

2010-09-20T07:30:00.002-04:00

Those folks at Burda are sadists. They love to torture their most loyal fans. And maybe we Burdaphiles are masochists because we keep coming back for more. When I decided to make this dress, I thought the collar was the same Burda collar I recently mastered and I was looking forward to sewing it again. But, Burda had a different idea. This collar construction was totally different from the typical Burda collar, yet equally frustrating. Lucky for me, Karen figured it out first and I was able to learn from her frustration and avoid my own. Thanks, Karen!

If Karen hadn't figured out the collar first, I might have given up on this dress. Just for fun, I compared Karen's instructions with Burda's. I couldn't make much sense out of Burda's instructions even when I already knew what to do! I haven't complained about Burda instructions in over a year, but this dress brought back all the bad memories of my struggles with Burda's instructions.

To me, this dress had a "vintage feel". It reminded me of the shirtwaist dresses worn by Eisenhower era TV moms, but more updated. I knew I would have to wear a belt with this dress, and I'm not particularly fond of wearing belts. I think a dark gray belt might look better than a black one. However, the woven fabric doesn't cling to my body and gives the illusion of a waist. That's the look I was hoping for. I used a lightweight twill - pobably a cotton/poly blend – and it worked out well. The dress was shown in denim. The twill has the same hand as a lightweight denim.

I tested one of my "great ideas" while sewing this dress. Burda uses numbers to identify seams. It wasn't really necessary for this dress, but this information is particularly useful when assembling panels in a skirt and the panels look almost identical when they are separated from the paper pattern. Rather than write the numbers on the fabric, I used removable color coding stickers. It turned out, this "great idea" was only a "good idea". The theory behind the idea was good, but the removable stickers didn't adhere to the fabric very well. Oh well, back to the drawing board.

Have I Stayed Too Long at the Fair?

2010-09-16T07:30:00.002-04:00

I wanted the music to play on forever.
Have I stayed too long at the Fair?
I wanted the clown to be constantly clever.
Have I stayed too long at the Fair?

Billy Barnes

The lyrics to this song reflect how I've been feeling about Burda Magazine. Burda has gone through a lot of changes lately and I'm wondering if I should stay with my favorite pattern company.

First, there was the name change. Burda World of Fashion to Burda Style was a minor change and easy to accept. If only they'd stopped there. But then, the Burda Fashion website was mercilessly killed. I have tried, but I just don't get the English BurdaStyle website. Apparently, English-speaking women who sew from the magazine is not the demographic this website is after. And if changing the website wasn't enough, the magazine itself has also changed. The magazine now has only one pattern sheet for all of the styles included, which makes tracing a real challenge. I used to find relaxation in the mindlessness of tracing, but that's gone now and I have to concentrate more while tracing. Finally, to add insult to injury, the last issue of Burda Plus Fashion repeated three of the five collections. I paid a second time for something I already owned.

Burdaphiles are frustrated with the changes. Some are talking of not renewing their subscriptions. But, I'm part of a very small niche: plus size women (and I don't mean size 14) who want to sew their own clothes. Burda still offers the best variety of fashion forward styles for the larger woman, as shown by these examples.

I don't know of any other pattern company that offers such a variety of plus size designs – certainly not the Big Four.

Giving up on Burda is hard for me. I am not ready stop my subscription. Even with the unwelcoming website, vexing pattern sheets and pattern reruns, Burda still offers the most fashionable plus size patterns. As long as Burda continues to offer this variety of plus size garments, I will stay at the fair a little longer.

Burda 7671

2010-09-10T07:30:00.000-04:00

I don't sew a lot of knits. I always seem to get wavy seams and hems even though I use a serger and reduce the presser foot pressure. So, I avoid knits like the plague. But, I found a discontinued pattern I really liked for $2.00, a knit fabric I really liked, and I had an occasion coming up for which the pattern was appropriate. So, I sewed a knit.

Burda 7671 – Dress

Pattern Description:
Long sleeved or sleeveless wrap dress that is gathered along the shoulder and down the sleeve.

Pattern Sizing:
US 18 - 30
European 44 - 56

Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions were easy to follow. I had to read some sections more than once, but that was probably because of my state of mind at the time. I was so worried about working with a knit I didn't give my full attention to the instructions. There were no unusual techniques involved.

The gathers on the sleeve and shoulder had to be a specific length. When gathering the shoulders and sleeve, I cut a piece of stay tape to the finished length + 1 inch or so to make "handles" on the ends. I pinned one end of the stay tape to the beginning of the gathers and the other end to the end of the gathers. Then I adjusted them to fit the stay tape and pinned the gathers to the tape before sewing. The stay tape is very thin and doesn't add bulk to the seam.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I needed a dress for a specific occasion and this pattern was perfect. Now that the dress is made and I've had it on, I realize I can only wear it if it is chilly in central NY state at the end of the month.

Fabric Used:
I used a cotton/poly jersey knit. This knit was easier to handle than other knits I sewn. I didn't get the waviness that discouraged me from sewing knits in the past. Maybe it was a better quality knit than I'm used to sewing.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
This was an easy dress to make. The style is classic. I would most certainly sew it again and recommend it.

Conclusion:
I learned I have to be gentle with knits. Knits are like toddlers – they don't always stay where you put them. But, if handled gently, they are less frustrating. This pattern has been discontinued and I'm glad I bought when I did. Now that I'm determined to make more knit garments, I'll probably be using this pattern again.

• § • § • § • § • § • § • § • § • § • § • § •

Sometimes, I feel guilty about leaving the cats alone while I'm shut up in the sewing room. This is what happens when I weaken and let them in:

Tangi oversees construction.

Soleil waits to get in the way of layout and cutting.

My LBD

2010-09-06T07:17:00.000-04:00

Burda 7666

Pattern Description:
Lined dress and jacket.

Pattern Sizing:
Plus sized
US: 18-24
European: 44 - 54

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, exactly!

Were the instructions easy to follow?
The directions were very easy to follow. I'm glad this is a Burda envelope pattern with illustrated directions and not a Burda magazine pattern. The organza overlay is gathered and not the actual front bodice. The illustrations were particularly useful when constructing the bodice.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I thought the design was flattering on a woman of my size. I also like the jacket - it makes the dress seasonless.

Fabric Used:
The dress & jacket are crepe-backed satin. The bodice overlay is organza.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
After making a muslin, I lengthened the bodice by 3/4".

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I have already recommended it! Snuzal asked for plus size LBD recommendations and I recommended this pattern.

Conclusion:
I loved working on this dress! I haven't sewn a dressy dress since my daughter's senior prom. In fact, I referred to this dress as "my prom dress." It required lots of hand sewing, but I find that relaxing. I made this dress for a fund-raising Gala and I can't wait to wear it!

A Quilt in the Queue

2010-09-04T06:57:00.000-04:00

Charm squares and yardage

Every once in a while I need to reaffirm the value of online sewing resources. I'm so grateful for the information and support I get from Online Sewing Buddies. And shopping online is so convenient. The most recent inspiration came from Lori of "Sew Forth Now" podcast and "Girls in the Garden" blog and Fat Quarter Shop.

Lori recently made a quilt for her daughter. I admired the design and emailed her about it. She told me the quilt was made using "Disappearing Nine Patch" blocks. (This link includes downloadable PDF directions). This is my kind of block – very easy! Anybody can make a nine patch! I found help with coordinating fabrics by going to Fat Quarter Shop and ordering charm pack sets and coordinating yardage for borders. Just like that, I have everything I need for the quilt top.

Lori led me to an easy quilting pattern and I found a source for coordinated, pre-cut fabrics. My quilting-bug has been re-born. I may actually achieve my goal of finishing another quilt.

Final Fabric Fling of the Summer

2010-08-29T09:00:00.014-04:00

Elizabeth organized a Pattern Review Shopping Day for Aug. 28, 2010, just days before my summer vacation ended and I was due to go back to work. It was a wonderful way to end my vacation on a high note. I always have a great time fabric shopping with the friends I've met through Pattern Review and it was wonderful to add new friends to the list.

Metro Textiles (265 W 37th St) and Elliot Berman (225 W 35th St ) agreed to open on Saturday especially for us and judging by the full bags and rolling suitcases, everyone found something to purchase at those stops. There was no way we all could have fit into Metro Textiles at one time so we divided into two groups and conquered Metro Textiles and Elliot Berman separately. Then we reassembled and went to Mood for more shopping and to practice our Tim Gunn "Thank you, Mood!" impersonations.

Half the group at Elliot Berman

Remembering how overwhelmed and exhausted I was after PR Weekend 2010, I came with a very short To Do List.

√ 1. Get fabric to make a dress for my best friend's retirement party. I found this jersey knit at Metro. The party is at the end of September, so this project moves to the beginning of my queue.

√ 2. Find blouse fabric to match bottomweight recently added to my collection. It's hard to tell from the photograph, but this cotton/silk blend is a perfect match for the teal bottomweight.

√ 3. Get eighteen red buttons for a knit top that's been in the queue for months. I've been wanting to do more with knits. This fabric has been pushed back many, many times because I prefer sewing wovens.

Since I successfully checked all of the items on my To Do list, I treated myself to this bonus piece:

I have no idea what I'm going to do with this French cotton from Elliot Berman. I just liked it!

These PR shopping excursions are really fun. There are few things better than spending time and talking with people who are as passionate about sewing as I am. Kudos to Elizabeth for planning such a great experience and kudos to co-commander Carolyn. I'll be watching the PR message boards for the next outing.

Sewetta: Easy Come, Easy Go

2010-08-27T07:36:00.002-04:00

I took Sewetta, my new vintage machine to a repair shop for what I hoped would be a good cleaning and lubrication. The news wasn't good. After the technician looked her over, he asked how much I paid. When I said $30, he said, "You paid too much." Ouch. The bobbin case needed to be replaced and one of the gears was damaged. The other three gears were okay, but the technician thought they should also be replaced because they were as old as the broken gear and might break at any time. I set a limit for how much I would spend on repairs. If the repairs cost more than $120, I planned to wait until I had more discretionary funds. I didn't want to spend a lot of money on a machine that would sit in the closet most of the time. Unfortunately, replacing one gear and the bobbin case exceeded my limit . The bobbin case alone cost more than I paid for the sewing machine. One day you're in, the next day you're out. Auf Wiedersehen, Sewetta.

Since I said I was looking for a back-up machine, Mr. Tech pointed out an unclaimed machine he was willing to sell to me for $100. I asked if he would take Sewetta as a trade-in. At first, Mr. Tech said no. After hard negotiations, he changed his mind and decided to take Sewetta and sell the unclaimed machine to me for $80. That was less than my limit and it got Sewetta off my hands. I said yes. The machine is a Singer 347 from the late 60s, just about the time I learned to sew. That gave it sentimental value. I named her Green Wilma, which is the title of a book I read to my daughter when she was young. The author is from my hometown. More sentimental value. Best of all, Green Wilma already works, so I don't have to spend any more money to get her fixed. Her repairs are guaranteed for a year. And to top it all off, Mr. Tech threw in three metal bobbins and a package of needles.

Spending an additional $80 was not as much fun as spending the original $30, but I got what I wanted: a working back-up machine. I plan to take Green Wilma to church when our Sewing Ministry meets. I might have let a $30 machine sit unused in the closet, but not a $110 machine. Green Wilma has to earn her keep.

LBD Progress Report

2010-08-23T08:30:00.006-04:00

Second muslin without the bodice changes

Part One: The Little Black Muslin

My LBD isn't going to be so L. According to the pattern description, this dress is "fitted". I made the first muslin in my usual size and it was a little too "fitted" so I went up a size. After studying the muslin, I decided to make the bodice a little longer.

Part Two: New Attitude

I've had to change the way I sew while working on this dress. My last several projects were cranked out in record speed. This dress is the polar opposite. I made two muslins, which means I traced all of the pattern pieces TWICE! Things moved quickly once the tracing was finished. I haven't traced the jacket yet. I'm going to save that until the dress is completely finished. Hopefully, working on the jacket separately will allow me to fool myself into thinking I'm working on a different project.

Part Three: Sparkles!

I used a sparkly chiffon laid over the satin for contrast. I love the look, but the sparkles are a bit of a pain. Every once in a while, the glued-on glam got caught up in the feed dogs. I'm going to give my machine a really good cleaning as soon as I finish sewing sparkles. As a matter of fact, I'm going to do that cleaning the next time I sit down to sew.

Meet Sewetta

2010-08-21T18:55:00.001-04:00

I was minding my own business.   I'd run a few Saturday morning errands and by 1:00 PM I was back home, ready to relax and trace the jacket to my LBD.   The phone rang.

Ring Ring
Me:       Hello?
Karen: Do you want to buy a sewing machine?
Me:        Hell yeah! I'll be right there!
Click

Well, maybe it wasn't exactly like that, but it was close. Less than 30 minutes later, I was the proud owner of a new old sewing machine. A thrift store on Karen's block was having a big sale and there was a lonely little Singer Touch and Sew in the back, waiting to be given a good home. I mean, it was $30.00! Anybody would have bought it! Besides, if I didn't buy it, Karen would have. I bought it to help out a friend. I'm not starting a collection of vintage machines, although I do envy some of the vintage babies other bloggers have obtained. I just needed a back-up machine.

I got home and plugged her in. The motor worked, the feed dogs moved back and forth and the needle went up and down, but she really needs to go in the shop to get the gunk cleaned out. Plus, there's a lever that looks like it should move to the left, but doesn't. My friend Karen to the rescue again. She recommended a repair person who likes working on older machines. Karen is a world-class enabler, but, as the kids say, "I ain't mad at her." I needed a back-up machine and now I have one.

My Little Black Dress

2010-08-16T08:30:00.004-04:00

Burda 7666: Dress B & Jacket C

I've put it off as long as possible. I told myself I have to finish all of my summer projects first. But the calendar isn't cooperating. I have to start this dress!

In October, I have an occasion that requires a dressy dress. It's been a very long time since I've had to get glam and I'm looking forward to it. I chose Burda 7666 for it's classic lines. I didn't want to stray away from the recommended fabric, crepe backed satin. I found a few very pretty colors, but I chose to use black instead. Yes, black is a boring color for dressy dresses but you really can't go wrong with a little black dress. We larger women have to be careful when we go formal. I'm using a sparkly chiffon for the bodice overlay to keep it from being totally boring. I don't expect any fit surprises, but I'm still making a muslin. That's why I've put off this project for so long. I don't like making muslins. Yes, experience has taught me how important muslins are, especially in a project for a special occasion, but I still don't like making them.

The timing couldn't be better. The summer program in which I worked ended on Aug. 13. That gives me two full weeks to work on this dress before (shudder) school starts. So, I'll be up to my elbows in muslin and black satin for a while. I usually don't post during the work-in-progress stage, but if things get interesting, I'll send up a cry for help.

Finished: BWOF 03-07-129 and Cutting Table

2010-08-13T08:30:00.001-04:00

Blouse: BWOF 03-07-129

This is another TNT blouse. A year ago, I didn't have any pattern I considered a TNT. Now I have at least three.

I had another opportunity to use Kenneth King's curved seam technique. I love this technique. I also used the collar technique demonstrated on the Threads Insider Techniques DVD. I love that technique, too. Since I've made this blouse twice before, the blouse construction was straightforward. I truly see the advantage of a TNT pattern. Now, I am a believer. The fabric is a linen/poly blend (bought during Philly PR Weekend) with the look of linen but none of the tendency to wrinkle. The only alteration I made was to lengthen the blouse. Currently, this is an old maid blouse – I didn't make pants to wear with it. I have enough black or tan pants to wear with this blouse.

Cutting Table
While my DD was home, I had to take down my cutting table for one night to accommodate an overnight guest. Since DD was recovering from surgery, she couldn't help with the lifting the table requires. After DD and guest left, I struggled to put the table back together all by myself and I realized I had to make some changes. I put the problem in the "To Be Solved" lobe of my brain and waited for inspiration. The solution came in a flash!

Changing the leg assembly from this:

to this:

made it possible to assemble the legs independently of the table top, position them over the bed and finally attach the table top. The task is still unwieldy, but I can do it by myself!

The Blouse, The Skirt and The Table

2010-08-09T08:00:00.006-04:00

I'm so glad I used red for this outfit. The color keeps the outfit from being too matronly. I used a nice breathable cotton for the blouse and linen for the skirt. It will be perfect for summer Sundays in church.

The Blouse: BWOF 04-06-126
I've made this blouse twice in three weeks and there isn't much more to say about it. After reading Kenneth King's article on treacherous curves on the Threads website, I applied the techniques to the curved seams on the collar and collar stand. The method made joining the curves much easier. After I saw King's article, I checked a few of my sewing books and found the same information there. I really need to spend more time with my sewing books. I'm missing lots of useful information.

The Skirt: BWOF 09-06-135
The skirt is a wardrobe staple - a six gore skirt. The recommended fabric was wool but it worked well in linen. The instructions called for a lining and I included one in my linen version so I wouldn't have to wear a slip. (They are so uncomfortable in the summer!) The last time I lined a skirt, I somehow got the zipper opening on the wrong side and I had to cut another lining. This time I marked the front and back with chalk and double checked the position before sewing in the lining. This is a classic skirt and I don't know why I took me almost four years to make it. It is destined to become a TNT pattern.

The Table
My next sewing project doesn't involve fabric. I've been very happy with the cutting table I designed and built. I designed the table to straddle the bed in the sewing room and to be disassembled when the bed was needed for a guest. My design had a major flaw: taking the table down and putting it back up was a big headache. It is difficult even with two people. I came up with an alternative design and I'll be working on another prototype. For the next few days, I will be working with wood at the same time I'm working with fabric. Hopefully, I'll have a new and improved cutting table by the time I finish the blouse I'll be sewing.

Finished: Top BWOF 05-05-139 and Shorts Burda 8087

2010-08-02T06:51:00.000-04:00

After much unnecessary agonizing, I decided to make the BWOF top rather than the Kwik Sew top. Connie said it best. The Kwik Sew top "yells scrub nurse" and that wasn't the look I was going for. : ) This outfit should be the end of my casual summer sewing. It's time to get back to sewing my work wardrobe.

Top BWOF 05-05-139

Pattern Description:
Short sleeved tunic with darts and front and back princess seams

Pattern Sizing: European Plus size 46 - 52

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes and I was glad. I used a large scale print and I wasn't sure if that was the best choice. The pattern photo showed a large scale print.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. I hardly needed them. The construction couldn't have been more straightforward.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I wanted a simple design that wouldn't clash with the large scale print fabric. I was concerned about interrupting the print with seams and darts. I needn't have worried. I can barely see the princess seams and darts in this blouse.

Fabric Used: A nice drapey challis I named "Indigo Batik"

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
The original pattern was tunic length. I shortened it to blouse length.

Conclusion:
I'm glad I finally made this blouse. It's I simple design that can be worn in a variety of ways.

Shorts Burda 8087

Pattern Description:
Typical fly front pants in two lengths.

Pattern Sizing:
The envelope includes sizes 10 to 24 (European 36 - 50)

Were the instructions easy to follow?
This pattern had no surprises so the instructions are hardly necessary.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I wanted a simple pattern for shorts and this pattern fit the bill nicely.

Fabric Used:
A loose weave linen bought specifically to coordinate with the Indigo Batik. The weave was so loose, it was practically coming apart in my hands. I serged all of the edges to prevent raveling.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
The shorts are shown at a length I really didn't care for, below the knee, so I chopped off about 6 inches.

Conclusion:
This pattern will be my TNT for shorts. I haven't made the long version, but I'm sure I will like them also.

– • – • – • – • – • – • – • – • – • – •

$25 and worth every penny

I learn a lot from OSBs (Online Sewing Buddies). For example, I first learned about this pincushion from Ann of Gorgeous Things. When I read about the pincushion on Ann's blog, I immediately went to Susan Khalje's store to take a look. I don't mind admitting, at first I couldn't see spending $25 on a pincushion. I mean, what could it do other than hold pins? Then Gwen of All My Seams recommended it, too. I asked her what made this pincushion so special and she told me how comfortable it was and told me, "you only live once"! I couldn't argue with that, so I bought one!

Both women were right! This is a great pincushion. It's so lightweight, I forget I'm wearing it. It doesn't slide all around my wrist. It's easier to pull pins out than to pry them from the magnetic surface of a Grabbit or magnetic wrist pincushion. It really is possible to love a pincushion! Yes, $25 is too much to spend on a pin cushion, but what good is a hobby if I can't splurge on it occasionally.

The next time an OSB (or even a sewing muggle) is excited about anything, I won't so much as raise an eyebrow. I'll investigate the situation and probably follow suit.

Paralyzed by Indecision

2010-07-30T08:00:00.010-04:00

The hardest thing for me to do is choose the right fabric for a pattern. After sewing for over 30 years, the mistake I still make most often is to use fabric that is absolutely wrong for a pattern. I love prints and I love BurdaStyle design details. But, the prints I love usually obscure the design details of the Burda patterns I love. To avoid making the same mistake yet again, I have tried to consider my fabric choices more carefully.

I bought this fabric during PR Weekend in Philly and I love it, but I've been afraid to use it. The print is large and I didn't want to break it up with a center front opening or too many seams. So, I went to my Burda Index for a simply styled top and found 05-05-139, which has princess seaming and small bust darts. (So much for "too many seams") The fashion photo showed a large scale print and that boosted my confidence, but I've made the wrong choice so many times before. I have another pattern option, Kwik Sew 2923, that is a simple v-neck, short sleeved top - no darts or seams in the front.

KwikSew 2923

I know I'm over-thinking this. But some of my past projects were disappointing because I didn't think enough about my fabric choice. And did I mention, I really love this fabric? The safest thing to do is first make the shorts that will be worn with this top. This will give me more time to make up my mind. Since this will be a shorts outfit, I want the top to be casual. Which is more casual: the BWOF or the Kwik Sew? After my last ~~failure~~ project, I'm overly sensitive to casual v. dressy. I'm so confused. It's amazing how a few past mistakes, especially my last project, have made me doubt myself. I'm forgetting my little sewing motto: It's only fabric!

Too Much of a Good Thing

2010-07-26T08:00:00.005-04:00

This innocent looking fabric was like the Mogwai from the movie "Gremlins". It very quickly multiplied into several garments, none of which were exactly what I wanted or expected.

It all started when I needed a top to go with shorts I'd bought last summer. I was lucky enough to find matching fabric at JoMar. It was incredibly ~~cheap~~ inexpensive ($2.00/yd) so I bought more than enough for a blouse (BWOF 04-06-129). When the blouse was finished, I didn't like the way it worked with the shorts. The shorts were really casual and the blouse was less so. I had enough fabric left over for a simpler, more casual blouse (Burda 3215 OOP). I even made the pattern adjustments to allow for eliminated shoulder pads (see "A Tale of Two Blouses" 7/16/2010). I wasn't in love with that combination either, but I would at least wear it out of the house.

Now, I was left a blouse without a mate. I decided the blouse would look better with a skirt. So I went back to JoMar hoping I'd find more of the same fabric. Unfortunately, I did. I used Burda 3152, another OOP pattern to make a skirt and I had one more outfit that disappointed me. I think it's too "matchy-matchy". Imagine that coming from me!

If I learned anything at all from this adventure, it was (1) not to be so obsessive about finding mates for old-maid garments and (2) things don't always have to match. I got carried away with my obsession and now I have two outfits I will wear but I don't really love. Maybe, I'll find fabric for a nice solid colored skirt to wear with the blouse. But I'm not going to obsess about looking for it.

The Death of the Freakin' Collar.

2010-07-21T07:00:00.011-04:00

Long, long ago I was totally defeated by BWOF 04-06-126 and what I came to call the Freakin' Collar. (Click here for the back story) I made a vow to conquer that collar with its poorly written instructions and I kept trying. Finally, I can say the Freakin' Collar has been laid to rest. I can sew it and barely consult the instructions. Take that, Freakin' Collar!

At the end of last summer, I bought shorts without buying tops to go with them. (They were on clearance - what else could I do? ) I packed them away before I got a chance to wear them. So this summer, when I unpacked summer clothes, I discovered I didn't have anything to wear with the shorts other than white tops and t-shirts. So, it became my quest to make a top to match the shorts. Nothing makes a project more difficult than trying to match fabric to a specific garment I already have. To make it even more difficult, I went to JoMar to look for the fabric. JoMar has terrific bargains, but a shopper is really setting herself up for failure if she is looking for something specific. But, wonder of wonders, I found fabric I liked in the right color. That shopping victory made me feel invincible so I chose to use BWOF 04-06-126. I'd made the blouse at least three times, always with a little trepidation, but this time I was feeling confident.

The design is deceptively simple, but sewing the collar is a b!t¢#. At least 70% of the instructions pertain to the collar. And, just to taunt me, BWOF uses this collar a lot.

First, the collar stand is not your typical collar stand. It involves sewing a concave curve to a convex curve and requires lots of pinning and easing. (Shudder.)

If that weren't bad enough, a corner is formed when sewing the collar to the lapel. Not a smooth curve or a straight line, but a corner. Actually, it's four corners when you consider the upper and under collars

If you are still in your right mind after the collar stand and lapel, you have to sew the upper collar to the facings and the under collar to the neckline separately. Imagine doing all this by following BWOF's diagramless and poorly translated text, and you know why I called this "The Freakin' Collar".

Finally, after this blouse, the Freakin' Collar is just a bad memory that has been replaced by the "Burda Collar". There are more Burda collars in my future; one on a dress (BWOF 05-10-137) and I just might make this blouse one more time. I can approach this collar with no fear!

Epilogue: After I finished the blouse, I didn't like the way it looked with the shorts. The shorts were too casual for the blouse; the blouse was too dressy for the shorts; they just weren't quite right together. I'm still left with the original dilemma: shorts and no coordinating top! I have a big piece of this fabric left. Hopefully it's enough for a more suitable blouse.

A Tale of Two Blouses

2010-07-16T08:00:00.096-04:00

It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it was a period of the right fabric, it was a period of the wrong pattern, it was the age of good intentions, it was the age of poor follow through.

Blouse 1

I started out wanting a blouse to go with the shorts I'd made. By chance, fabric I bought from JoMar and fabric I ordered from Sawyer Brook went together nicely. The blouse pattern I chose (Burda 3214 OOP) called for shoulder pads. I'm not a fan of shoulder pads – haven't been since the mid-eighties. If I'd remembered the shoulder pads before I cut the fabric, I would have altered the shoulders to eliminate the extra ease. I didn't like the wrinkles in the shoulder without the shoulder pads, so I put them in. Then, I didn't like the NFL tackle look, so I took them out. I tried smaller pads and they changed the look from a tackle to a quarterback, but that wasn't the look I was going for either. After fiddling with three different sets of shoulder pads, I decided to eliminate them altogether and wear the blouse padless. It's a casual shorts outfit, after all. A few wrinkles at the shoulders can be overlooked.

Blouse 2

Blouse 2 came about much easier than blouse 1. In the middle of inserting and removing various shoulder pads, I suspected I'd never wear the short sleeved blouse with the shoulder pads and I was afraid the blouse wouldn't see the light of day. Luckily, I had a large enough piece of the fabric leftover to make a second blouse. I chose Burda Plus Fashion Spring/Summer 2006-410. I haven't worn a sleeveless blouse in years, so this blouse represents a wild leap outside of my comfort zone. Three digit temperatures will make you do crazy things. The blouse has bias binding on the armhole and facing on the neckline. It has waistline darts in the front and back to give a more fitted silhouette. I also like the way the armscye fits my body without gaping. I found suitable wood-like buttons in my button collection so I didn't even have to go out and buy buttons.

So now, I have two different looks from the same fabric. It is a far, far better thing to have two options rather than one.

Detour

2010-07-09T13:57:00.003-04:00

Here's an original thought (I made it up myself – feel free to use it):
Sewing is like a box of chocolates. You never know what you're going to get.

Here's how I arrived at this great profundity:
Bad news: Several months ago, my machine started making strange and ugly noises and the bobbin compartment door kept popping open. I immediately took it to the shop.
Good news: The problem wasn't serious. The noises came from an embarrassing accumulation of lint. I was soundly scolded by the dealer and I promised to do a better job of keeping the machine clean.
Bad news: The bobbin compartment door popped open because of a crack in the machine cover (probably due to being transported carelessly). The replacement cover had to be back ordered and took many weeks.
Good news: The part finally arrived and I arranged to take the machine in while I was out of town so I wouldn't miss it and I could sew when I returned home.

Bad news: The machine wasn't ready when I returned home. In the interim, I traced and cut out two quick projects. While my machine was at the dealer, the light behind the LCD screen blew out and that part wouldn't be in for 7 to 10 days! SEVEN TO TEN MORE DAYS WITHOUT A SEWING MACHINE! I DON'T THINK SO!
Good news: The dealer offered a cute little Activa 210 as a loaner and I was more than happy to accept. I would love to know exactly how the light got broken at the dealership, but I'll consider any extra charges as the rental fee for the free loaner. But, as they say, it's all good.

I'll be sewing on an unfamiliar machine for the next several days. My OCD meter is in the red zone. Luckily, my projects are easy, casual summer tops so I should be able to handle this change without a visit to a psychiatrist for talk therapy and medication. This is a harmless little detour and I can get back to my original plan when my machine finally comes home.

…… and so Summer Sewing Begins

2010-07-07T08:04:00.000-04:00

I made an impromptu visit to my home town in central New York State for the holiday weekend. The visit was bittersweet. My beloved aunt is in the hospital and will most likely be discharged to an assisted living facility. But, I got to see my immediately family and we had a great time together. The small amusement park in my home town is slowly being restored and my siblings and I went there to revisit our childhood. My niece got the brass ring on the merry-go round. I got a little dizzy! That sucker goes faster than I remember!!!!!

I managed to finish a shorts outfit in time for the heat wave. The blouse (Burda 3214) is an old, old OOP pattern and needs raglan shoulder pads. In this heat, the shoulder pads seem like an unnecessary layer, so it may be awhile before I put them in and the blouse is wearable. In the meantime, I had enough of the fabric left over to cut out a sleeveless blouse. I also went to JoMar to look for a specific fabric (and to take advantage of someone else's air conditioning). I needed something to match a pair of shorts I bought last summer. It's not a good idea to go to JoMar with something specific in mind, but I was lucky enough to find just what I was looking for. I'll cut the fabric while I wait for my machine to come home.

Yes, my machine is back in the shop. Somehow the cover got cracked and the replacement was back-ordered months ago when she was in the shop for another issue. I'd hoped to have it home again when I got back from my trip, but no such luck. So I'll be just tracing and cutting-out for awhile. I'll have some projects cut out and marked and machine-ready by the time my machine returns from her little vacation.

Bits and Pieces

2010-06-30T19:27:00.001-04:00

My vacation was short but sweet. The Smoky Mountains are amazing! I wish I could have stayed a few days longer just to relax. (Why is it I never get much relaxation on vacations?) We were in Gatlinburg, TN to support my niece in a National Dance competition. Her team earned a Platinum rating and took first place in their age category.

DN was happier about the win than this photograph indicates, but I was trying to

get a candid picture. That's not so easy to do since DN is really quite a ham. She strikes a ~~rather affected~~ pose every time someone points a camera in her direction. I prefer children in their natural, chaotic state.

My newest favorite animal is the sea dragon. They are so cute! Thousands of years of evolution and this is what they came up with! This little guy lives at Ripley's Aquarium in Gatlinburg.

My newest favorite notion is the iron caddy. Often, fabric needs to be ironed after preshrinking. This iron caddy give more usable ironing board space for the entire width of the fabric because the iron is not stored on the board. It yields an extra 6 inches.

I'm working on the shorts over which I agonized ad nauseum and my newest favorite shorts pattern is Burda 8087. I'll make them a little shorter than shown. We've had three heat official heat waves already and I'm more comfortable in shorts when the temperature goes above 90º.

V-A-C-A-T-I-O-N in the Summertime!!!

2010-06-23T07:16:00.000-04:00

I am GONE!
I am so outta here!
Elaray has left the building!
I'll be reading ~~trashy~~ novels and relaxing in the Smoky Mountains. I don't want to think about anything more complicated than remembering to put on sun screen when I go down to the pool. There might be some fabric shopping if I can find an independent fabric store, but even fabric shopping isn't a priority. As much as I love to sew, I need a break from all of my normal activities. Needless to say, there will be very little blogging or message boards this week.

Thoughts on Shorts

2010-06-20T11:15:00.001-04:00

My mental age must be catching up with my chronological age. I still feel like I'm still 35 even though I'm considerably older. But, that's changing, as evidenced by my feelings about wearing shorts.

I wanted to sew some shorts and there weren't a lot of options. Add the fact that I'm plus sized and the choices dwindled even more. I began to doubt myself. Should someone my age and size even be wearing shorts? I think I remember someone on Oprah saying capris are more fashionable than shorts anyway and if you hear it on Oprah, it must be true. All of my shorts hover around my knees, a length I consider flattering for me. But should a woman in her 50's really be wearing shorts? Does Oprah wear shorts? I didn't have these concerns when I was thirty-five. As I unpacked my spring/summer clothes, I noticed I do have several pairs of shorts. I obviously didn't have these doubts last summer because I found a pair with the tags still on them and I remember buying them on clearance last August. But I'm a year older now and I'm not so sure anymore. Now, when I see a woman wearing shorts, she immediately goes under my mental microscope. How old is she? How do her legs look? How short are the shorts? Would I wear shorts like that? I could get feminist about the issue and think about the older men I see wearing shorts, but that's a story for another day.

In southeastern PA, we're working on our second or third round of temperatures over 90º. So, I'm going to wear the shorts I have and I'm going to sew some more shorts. I'm old enough to trust myself and know what looks good on me. But if I look ridiculous in a pair of shorts, I hope a friend or loved one will tactfully let me know I should go home and change my clothes.

BS 02-10-138 Project Diary

2010-06-15T18:00:00.005-04:00

June 8

Finally, I've reached BS 02-10-138 in my queue. I liked this dress when I first saw it in preview in January. I found the perfect fabric at JoMar in March. And now, it's finally time to sew it! It has ~~dozens of~~ fourteen pieces – shoulder tabs, bias bindings, flaps – and tracing it will be a pain. But if I like Burda Style's design details, then I have no choice but to trace them.

June 10
I've been working on this dress early in the morning before for work. I used this pattern before to make a blouse and I had a problem with the front band and opening. The front was placed on the fold and there wasn't enough room between the placket seamline and the fold for a 5/8" seam allowance. I didn't read the directions carefully enough the first time. This time I realized the seam allowances are 3/8", not the usual 5/8". Very sneaky, Burda Style! Of course I realized this after I traced a 5/8" seam allowance onto all of the pieces. I solved the problem by changing the seam allowances to 3/8" only on the front band pieces and the placket openings including the front yoke! I kept the rest of the seam allowances at 5/8". Everything is cut out and marked. After cutting and applying the interfacing, I'll be ready to sew!

June 11
I'm pleading temporary insanity. For a moment, I actually believed I could use BS instructions to do the welt pockets. I really did! Fortunately, I came to my senses before I ruined the dress. The BS instructions were useless. Instead, I used the instructions from Jackets for Real People (Palmer & Alto, 2006) and made three practice pockets before touching the dress. These are not the best welt pockets I've ever made. Even with interfacing, the fabric was a little limp to support such a detail. Next time, I'll use a lighter interfacing on the welt itself.

June 13

I was so focused on the welt pockets, I was blind-sided by the front band. I didn't like the way the bottom of the band looked and I did some un-sewing. The fabric is a rather loose weave and I was a little too heavy-handed with the ripper. I mangled the fabric pretty badly. I opted for the "Watergate" approach and tried to fix it by covering it up. This solution worked better for me than it did for Nixon. The repair is looks like another design detail.

June 15
Once I averted the near disaster at the bottom of the front band, (it's barely visible and looks like it belongs there) construction went along without a hitch. I bought the fabric at JoMar and I'm not totally sure what it is. Sometimes it feels like cotton, sometimes it feels like wool. Today, I'm thinking it's a lightweight wool. It holds a crease like a natural fiber. As I ironed it, I was convinced it was cotton. I'm very happy with the finished dress. It's loose fitting without being voluminous. It looks okay without the belt. And most importantly, it gives me an excuse to buy a new long necklace.

Vote Early and Often (A solicitation)

2010-06-14T19:24:00.006-04:00

The public school where I work, Thomas G. Morton School in Philadelphia is trying to win 200 new computers for our classrooms. Our school counselor wrote a proposal for a $250K grant being awarded by Pepsi. You can help us win the computers by going to www.refresheverything.com/mortonschool, registering and voting for Morton's proposal. You can vote once everyday until June 30. If you have more than one e-mail address, you can vote once everyday for each e-mail address. You can vote for other proposals, but please vote for only one $250K proposal - the one for Morton School. Our motto is "Morton is on the Move!" Please help our students truly be on the move by helping put ten new computers in each classroom.

Edited to add: This post is a solicitation. If you are able to help, I sincerely appreciate it. If not, that's fine too. Comments about what I may or may not include in my blog are neither necessary nor appreciated.

Finished: BWOF 03-06-131 Pants & Burda 8248 Blouse

2010-06-08T07:16:00.001-04:00

Other sewers in the online sewing community have been turning out dozens of new outfits while I have been plodding along trying to finish just one. I felt like I was walking in quicksand. My mojo was in place. I sewed nearly everyday. I just wasn't finishing anything. Finally I finished this blouse and pants.

Blouse: Burda 8248 (OOP)

Pattern: This is a favorite blouse pattern. The button front blouse has collar, center back seam and waist darts – a typical camp shirt. The pattern includes a dress length.

Instructions: We all know Burda envelope pattern instructions are easier to follow than magazine patterns and we all know why. PICTURES!

Likes/Dislikes: I like this pattern because it's a classic camp shirt with no surprises. Camp shirts are very well suited to my casual wardrobe. It is darted and has a center back seam which gives it a slimming, fitted silhouette.

Fabric: I bought this cotton seersucker because I loved the colors. The fabric just spoke to me and it said "Ahhhh, Summer!"

Alterations/Design: I made this blouse straight out of the envelope.

Conclusion: This has become a TNT pattern. I've made both the blouse and the dress before.

Pants: BWOF 03-06-131

Pattern: This is also a TNT pattern. I didn't realize I've made it twice before.

Pattern Sizing:

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Were the instructions easy to follow?
The hip pockets on these pants were a little tricky and illustrated instructions would have helped. But, I'm a grown-a$$ woman, and I'm through complaining about the lack of illustrations in Burda Style magazine instructions.

The teeny-weeny little dart has to be slashed a mere 5/8" and piping strips are inserted into the dart. Sounds simple enough. But where to slash the dart for the insertion? I ended up cutting diagonally from the corner an then down 5/8". The piping strip was sewn onto the upper edge, the dart was sewn, encasing the piping strip. Then, the hip yoke piece is attached. The vertical seam is sewn exactly on the dart stitching line. (Wouldn't this have been easier to understand if illustrations of the process were included?) I like the detail - I just wish there was an easier way to achieve it.

Louise Cutting demonstrates a technique on Threads Insider Techniques DVD. She recommends pressing seams open when they have to be folded back on themselves, as in a waistband seam. This keeps the waistband from rolling to one side. I used that technique on this waistband. The seam is pressed open over a point presser before it is turned right side out. This technique can also be used on sewn on facings.

Likes/Dislikes: The pants are jeans and not jeans. The back pocket and the topstitching on the inseam and side seam are "jeans" but the front pocket is "not jeans".

Fabric: The fabric is a cotton twill with a little lycra.

Alterations/Design changes: I raised the waist band 1" to eliminate the low rise look.

Conclusion: I like the colorful blouse and I have a feeling this will become a favorite outfit.

Where Are All the Shorts?

2010-05-27T08:00:00.014-04:00

Did I miss the memo about shorts being passé? Summer's coming and I need shorts. Not capris, but shorts. Apparently, my Beloved BWOF/BS doesn't think a plus size woman should wear shorts. I've looked through five years of back issues and I did not see one pair of shorts in the plus size range. Burda envelope patterns are a little more liberal in their opinions on what a plus size woman should should wear when it gets hot. I did find one possibility there. McCall's and Butterick must think it's perfectly okay for me to wear shorts. They each offered four patterns. Vogue … just one quirky Today's Fit pattern. I didn't look at Simplicity's options. (I can't bring myself to sew a Simplicity pattern. Don't ask.)

From this dizzying array, I narrowed it down to two choices.

The styles are essentially the same. In studying the envelope photographs, Burda 8087 appears to have more ease in the thigh than McCall's 5857. In addition, Burda 8087 is shown as mid-knee length; longer than I like, but easy enough to fix.

I'm very disappointed in the scarcity of choices. Yes, I'm larger than most women, but I can still tastefully wear shorts. At least I think I can. Maybe my Beloved BWOF/BS doesn't show plus size shorts for a reason. Maybe I should listen.

§ ∞ § ∞ § ∞ § ∞ § ∞ § ∞ § ∞ § ∞ § ∞ §

And speaking of five years of BWOF/BS back issues, I found a temporary solution to the storage problem I wrote about a year ago. I was quickly running out of space to store the back issues and I couldn't bear to get rid of them … or anything else for that matter. A few people suggested tossing the magazines and keeping only the pattern sheets and instruction pages. That's what I did. I saw a hanging file box the last time I was in Jo-Ann. This box will hold about 18 months of instructions and pattern sheets. I know eventually, I will have to get rid of something to make space. But, not right now.

Finished: BPF SS-10-413 through 415 and BWOF 02-08-127

2010-05-23T18:45:00.004-04:00

If this outfit had a theme song, it would be "The Long and Winding Road". This project took many turns on the way from concept to garment.

First, the road to the blouse …

The first turn on the road came when I noticed the blouse pattern was sized for petites. I'm 5'9". The differences in the length measurements (bust depth, front waist length, back length and sleeve length) were 3/4" or less. The alternations were easy, but annoying. I usually do (pivot and slide) pattern adjustments as I trace. For some reason, the (seemed like) 50 other pattern pieces on the sheet were more distracting than usual and the adjustments took longer than they should have. The road bent in another direction when I realized one of the variations was the bust length. Lowering the bust line on blouses is a regular alteration for me (when my ego lets me do it). Since this blouse was already drafted for a shorter torso, I decided this was the time to set my ego aside and include the alteration. That led to another bend in the road. This blouse had princess seaming and the only way I knew to lower the bust line was to lower the darts. I checked Fast Fit (Betzina, 2003) and learned how to alter the bust on princess seams. It was really a very easy process.

My original pattern choice was 414. I liked the flap and and top stitching (but not the belt). But, leave it to my beloved Burda to make things ~~difficult~~ interesting. The road forked again when I read the instructions and learned the center front panels on 414 are made with double layers of fashion fabric rather than a folded over facing. The center front was placed on the fold and grosgrain ribbon was sewn on the left front (a decorative and functional facing) with the buttons sewn on over the ribbon . Quite an interesting detail, but I turned away from that feature and took another fork in the road. 415 had the folded front facing I'm used to so I traced that front and followed those directions. I also preferred the rolled up sleeve on 413. I combined the preferred details from three similar patterns to come up with my blouse. And since I was going into so many directions at once, rather than confuse myself changing lanes between three sets of directions, I made up the directions as I went along.

And then came the pants …

… and yet another detour in the Long and Winding Road. When I bought the fabric for these pants I was thrilled. I searched among the fabric at JoMar and found a real bargain – quality fabric for $1.60 a yard. However, it was stored on a roll and I didn't realize it was only 44" wide. I would have noticed if it had been wrapped on a bolt. Consequently, I didn't have enough fabric to make my first choice pants. I didn't realize I was short on fabric until I'd already traced the pattern and laid it out. I switched destinations and went for capris instead. Still, it was a tight squeeze getting all the pieces on the fashion fabric. I had to use gray pocketing for the pockets and inside waistband.

This journey was made even longer by a side trip through PR Weekend. I started this project several days before PR Weekend and finished it several days after. For two days, rather than sewing, I was socializing and shopping with other sewing enthusiasts. Then, for the next two days, I was recovering from all the socializing and shopping. It was tremendous fun, but it added four days to the trip to a finished outfit. The journey might not be over. After looking objectively at the pictures, I might shorten the blouse … and maybe the pants, too. Some journeys never end.

PR Weekend 2010: Philadelphia

2010-05-16T12:00:00.004-04:00

Disclaimer: In addition to being a participant, I was a volunteer/organizer. Opinions expressed are completely biased.

Click photographs to enlarge.

It was wonderful to meet, spend time with, and shop with people who are as obsessed with sewing as I am. I could openly talk about presser feet, bobbins and tracing wheels with people who understand my obsession. Sewing is a solitary pastime. I go in my sewing room, close the door to keep the cats out, and stay locked away, sometimes for hours. I can't even hear the doorbell when I'm in the sewing room. Even though I probably will never use the embellishment technique from Kenneth King's workshop, it was, for me, a high point of the weekend. Sharing the experience with a room full of other enthusiastic sewers was a rare pleasure. Sewers are the most supportive, generous and fun people one could hope to meet.

Friday Morning, May 14
Friday was my favorite day of the weekend. On Friday morning, Kenneth King entertained us while he taught us his embellishment technique using trim, rat tail, beads. I encourage anyone who has the opportunity to take a workshop with Kenneth. I was thrilled to have my copy of Cool Couture autographed (and to hear the backstory about the cover photograph).

Kenneth King brought inspirational examples of his work.

My embellished sample from the workshop.

Friday Afternoon, May 14

We got up close and personal with garments from the "Great Designers" exhibit at the Philadelphia Museum of Art. And when I say "up close", I mean up close! My fingers were less than an inch away from Worth, Chanel, Fortuny, and Schiaparelli garments.

My personal favorite was the Schiaparelli dinner jacket.

Saturday, May 15

Saturday was shopping day. We visited three sites. Philadelphia's "garment district" is called "Fabric Row" and is on Fourth Street below South St. Then we traveled to Cherry Hill, NJ to London Textiles for designer and imported fabrics. Finally, we ended our shopping at the fabled JoMar. Since I live in the Philadelphia area, I was familiar with two of the three planned shopping sites. But, I was happy to learn about London Textiles in New Jersey. They sell high end fabrics at not greatly discounted, but reasonable prices. The best bargains were found in the boxes of remnants at the front of the store. Normal business days are Monday - Friday, but they were kind enough to open on a Saturday especially for PR members. I can say without reservation, we made it worth their while. Now that I know about this place, I plan to go back.

Like most attendees, I bought something at every stop. On Sunday morning, I fondled my purchases and gave them their assignments.

lavender linen-look for a blouse
(Fabric Row)

black print lightweight twill for skirt
(London Textiles)

poly-cotton print for summer blouse
(JoMar)

rayon print for summer blouse
(London Textiles)

lightweight cotton twill for dress or pants
(JoMar)

knit print and khaki twill will be saved for fall sewing
(Fabric Row)

Notice – only two of the seven pieces are intended to be coordinates! Quite a change from my usual shopping MO. As of today, I have 13 (OMG!) pieces of fabric in my queue! This is the first time I've reached double digits.

Karen did an outstanding job as organizer and everything ran smoothly. In my official role as "Transportation Manager", I must give special mention to Connie and Andrea! These women selflessly provided transportation for attendees who could not be accommodated on the school bus and who had train connections that could not be missed. Silknmore served as navigator and co-pilot for Connie, our self-proclaimed "token Canadian". I consider these women to be the MVPs of the PR Weekend.

As one the Philadelphia hosts, I hope everyone had as much fun as I did! I look forward to attending another PR Weekend, if geographically feasible.

Finished: BS 02-10-137

2010-05-07T09:15:00.001-04:00

I really love the design details of Burda Style plus size patterns. Big Four plus patterns are usually more bland and if you want unique details, you have to add them yourself. This long sleeved blouse has a cuff, but no placket, which I think is an interesting detail. I also liked the pleated frill, even though I didn't use it.

I can't explain why I am so determined to conquer Burda magazine instructions. I want to be able to read the instructions, use Burda's methods as presented, and sew the garment without consulting any outside source and without scratching my head in confusion. It's a neurotic compulsion, I guess. There were no particularly puzzling parts in the directions for 02-10-137. There was a major omission, though. After reading these instructions several times and I never saw an instruction that said, "sew the side seams." Of course, anyone would know to sew the side seams, but an omission of that magnitude might make a BurdaNewbie a little nervous.

I was drawn to this pattern because of the pleated trim around the front band and sleeve. I never assumed I would have found pleated trim to match any fabric I might buy or already own. I also never considered pleating strips of fabric myself. Burda recommends having the fashion fabric "commercially pleated: triple pleats, pleat width 1 cm." I imagine the commercial pleater would know what all of that means. I don't. I liked the detail even though I knew I couldn't produce it. My daughter brought back this fabric from Morocco, along with the matching trim. I really wanted to include the trim in whatever project I chose for the fabric, so I put the braided trim where the pleated trim would have been.

The fabric is light and breathable crinkled cotton – perfect for warm weather in spite of the long sleeves. Whenever I get the opportunity to sew natural fibers, I swear I will never sew man-made fibers again. I really enjoy working with fabrics that press easily and are stable.

This blouse was made to be a knock-around-the-house blouse so I don't have to be concerned about coordinating pants.

Finished: BS 01-10-133

2010-05-01T10:00:00.003-04:00

I decided I needed a new white blouse for the occasions I usher at a local theater. I started the blouse in plenty of time for my next scheduled usher duty. However, my machine started making frightening noises so I stopped working on the blouse and immediately took it in for repair. Luckily, it only needed routine cleaning and I got it back just in time to finish the blouse.

According to the description, "Its hip length – with tucked folds front and back – cleverly conceals any slight bulges." Sounds like my kind of blouse! I used a white tone-on-tone shirting cotton for this blouse. I love working with natural fiber fabrics that are easy to press.

Just when I thought I had mastered Burda instructions, I encountered a problem. When I read "Baste piping to front, on joining edge of insert " it seemed contradictory. Do I baste the piping "to front" or "on ... insert"? I went for the on insert interpretation. Wrong. It wasn't until I later read "Lay front inserts on joining edges of fronts, next to piping cord", that I realized my mistake. A picture certainly would have helped. I know now I will never master Burda's directions.

I was excited about making and inserting piping for this blouse. I used The Complete Book of Sewing for instructions on making the piping. I liked this method because the allowance on the piping was exactly 5/8" and this made it very easy to insert the piping. After being misled my Burda directions for the piping on the front insert, I used the method described in Kenneth King's Cool Couture for inserting the piping on the collar. This was the first time I actually used the book for a specific technique. I found King's directions easy to follow and I was very happy with the results. When I meet Kenneth King in person at PR Weekend in Philadelphia and ask him to sign my copy, I can honestly say I've successfully used the technique.

When my machine got sick, I was really tempted to run out and buy a back-up machine. But, the money I'd spend on a back-up machine would be better spent on the repair. Then, I tried to buy a RTW white blouse. Naturally, because I desperately needed a white blouse, I couldn't find one I liked. I was thrilled to get my machine back in time to finish this blouse.

• § • § •§ • § • § • § • § • § • § • § • § •

How often do you clean and oil your machine? I took my machine in for repair because it was clunking very loudly and the door to the the bobbin compartment kept popping open. The clunking was caused by an accumulation of lint in the bobbin area. My machine has a LCD screen on which an icon appears when it's time for oiling and cleaning. When ever the icon appeared, I stopped sewing to oil and brush out the bobbin area. According to my dealer, I shouldn't wait for the icon. I should be oiling and cleaning after every three garments. And if I were to be lucky enough to go on a sewing retreat where I would be sewing all day, I should clean and oil every evening of the retreat! I had no idea machines required that much maintenance. I learned long ago to change needles after about 8 hours of sewing. I guess I'll have to get into the habit of oiling and cleaning when I change needles.

Pure Pride

2010-04-29T06:47:00.007-04:00

I try not to use this blog to discuss anything other than sewing. When I stray away from patterns and notions, the topic is something very important to me. Please indulge a proud mother and I will pray to be forgiven of the sin of pride.

My daughter conceived and organized the first Employee Appreciation Week at the University of Virginia earlier this month. She told me about her plan last Fall and she worked hard for months to make it happen. According to her report and the article in the Cavalier Daily, the week was a great success and the employees appreciated being appreciated! Like most young adults, my daughter is still learning about herself and makes the requisite missteps, but when she is inspired, she really shines.

Quitting Cold Turkey

2010-04-24T17:10:00.004-04:00

I have to quit sewing. A few days ago I was working on my white blouse (the one I need by the beginning of May) and my sewing machine worked perfectly. On Saturday morning, I packed it up to take to church for the biweekly sewing ministry. As I set it up, I noticed two small pieces of white plastic under the free arm. Uh-oh. I started sewing and heard a terrifying clunking noise. And if the clunking wasn't enough to worry me, as I sewed, the door to the bobbin compartment popped open every few minutes. Strange. The stitch looked fine, but I couldn't ignore the clunking. I went straight to the sewing machine dealer from the church. I won't have my machine for at least a week. I have to quit cold turkey. Well, at least I'll have time to get some housework done. Maybe.

Finished: BWOF 08-05-133 and BPF FW-07-405D

2010-04-17T09:35:00.004-04:00

It's not hard to believe it's been over two weeks since my last post. Work has been horrible and I've been in a really bad mood and unable to finish anything. It's a good thing I live alone. No one should be around me when I get like this. Actual sewing and other sewing-related activities have kept me from throwing myself out the window. How do the poor souls who don't sew stay sane?

Blouse: BWOF 08-05-133
Pattern Description:
This long-sleeved blouse, from has faux French cuffs and Princess seaming on the front and back. The collar is constructed like a shawl collar rather than a collar on a stand.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I made this blouse three years ago, just when I was beginning to feel comfortable with BWOF instructions. Any Burdaphobes should know, Burdas do get easier with every completed project!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Fabric Used:
The top is a "featherweight wool blend" from Vogue Fabrics Swatch Club. Wool really is a versatile fabric! The top is a little meatier than a blouse, but not exactly a jacket. A blacket? A Jause? Whatever you call it, it's perfect for cool spring days. I can picture the top worn like a jacket with a tank top.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I like sewing Burda's because I can make them with very few alterations or design changes.

Pants: BPF FW-07-405

For the pants, I used Hot Patterns adaptation on Sandra Betzina's fly front zipper. I like the way the zipper shield was attached, but I didn't like the final position of the zipper. On the tutorial, Trudy said she hated the way zippers are sometimes visible under the flap at the center front. I've never had a problem with the zipper peeking out when I use the Betzina method. Other than that, these are the same pants I've made 24,817 times.

• * • * • * • * • * • * • * • * • * • * • * •

Next up: BS 01-10-133

I needed a white blouse for the occasions when I serve as a volunteer usher at Philadelphia's Walnut Street Theater. I found some white tone-on-tone cotton when I was in Virginia - and it was on sale!!! I chose this design because it's a little, tiny step outside of the box for me. Most of my blouses button up the front and this one buttons only half-way up the front. I'm also excited about making the piping that goes around the insert and at the top of the collar. (Excited by piping!?! I'm such a sewing geek!)

As any Burdaphile knows, it is imperative to thoroughly read Burda Style directions before doing anything else. Here's how I knew I was getting better at reading and interpreting Burda Style directions.
BurdaSpeak: "Seam allowance on bottom end of left band extends."
Apparently, the translator didn't realize that speakers of Standard American English seldom use "seam" as a verb. After puzzling for only a minute or two, I concluded what was meant was "Sew allowance on bottom of left band extension." Not only have I learned to sew Burda, I can now speak Burda.

Must. Buy. Fabric.

2010-04-05T08:00:00.002-04:00

I really didn't intend to go to G Street Fabrics on the way to visit my daughter in Virginia. If I had planned to go, I would have called someone from the area and tried to arrange a meet-up. When I left my house I had no intention of buying fabric at G Street. I swear. But I had too much time to think. As I was driving, I had almost two hours to come up with the following reasons to visit G Street.

I had fabric for a top and no fabric for a coordinating bottom. It makes me uncomfortable to have "old maid" fabrics. I couldn't rest until I had a mate for a piece I bought last week.
I wanted to see the new location. When I was at G Street last year, everyone was talking about the move to a new location. I prefer the new location. It's smaller and therefore it doesn't feel overwhelming.
It's not like I'm in Rockville, MD everyday. If I didn't take this opportunity, who knew when I would have another chance?
Traffic wasn't horrible and I was making good time on the road. Usually, the traffic nightmare in the Baltimore/D. C. area makes me agitated and tense. I timed my departure so I'd miss the morning rush hour. I needed to reward my terrific planning and judgment.
I had Onstar GPS and presumably couldn't get lost. Since I didn't plan to visit G Street, I didn't print out Mapquest directions. But, thank goodness for GPS. I did get a little lost because of the construction in the area, but I made it with minimal headaches.

So I ended up buying fabric to be worn with the old maid blouse fabric. I didn't have a swatch with me at the time (because I never planned to buy fabric, remember?) so I had to guess at the match.

I think I did pretty good!

Once I got to Charlottesville, I visited Les Fabriques, my planned fabric stop. And, wonder of wonders, I didn't find one piece of fabric I wanted to buy! I liked a bolt of tone-on-tone white fabric on the sale table, but I didn't buy it. That is, I didn't buy it until I went back the next day because I remembered I needed a white blouse for the occasions I am a volunteer usher at the Walnut Street Theater.

Yes, I'm an unapologetic fabri-holic and I must buy fabric!

A Touch of Pink

2010-04-02T13:00:00.000-04:00

The challenge of using this fabric was to use the trim in a way that didn't look too 60's. When I tried the trim on the long sleeved tunic, (BWOF 06-09-135) all I could think of was how groovy it looked so I considered trimming the short sleeved blouse (BPF SS-06-402).

Burda Plus Fashion SS-06-402

My first inspiration was to use the trim only on the inside of the neckline where the instructions called for bias tape. Since it would not be visible to the public, I thought that would be a subtle way to use the trim – a "secret embellishment" since I would be the only person to see it. I would have been happy to leave well enough alone at that point, but the buttons had a touch of white and I wanted to use more trim so the buttons and trim could work together.

Pattern Description: Blouse with princess seaming in front and darts in the back.

Pattern Sizing: European plus sizing 44 - 52

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? I made this blouse before, so this time the instructions were easy. I first made this blouse back when I was totally confused by and critical of Burda instructions. Now, I'm used to the instructions and they don't bother me anymore.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I needed a short-sleeved blouse and this one worked.

Fabric Used: A crinkle cotton my daughter brought back from Morocco.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I added an inch to the length. The trim on the neckline and sleeve could be considered a design change since it wasn't included in the original design.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? The next time a make this, I want to eliminate the collar add a conventional neck and front facing.

Conclusion: This cotton is very light and comfortable to wear. I have a perfect hot weather blouse.

Burda Style 06-09-135

Pattern Description:

Pattern Sizing: European plus size 44 - 52

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? This fabric was purchased in Morocco and I wanted to use it for something that was reminiscent of that part of the world. This tunic was the closest thing.

Fabric Used: crinkle cotton

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: none, I made this as-is.

Conclusion: The fabric is lightweight, so I'll wear it when the weather is much warmer in spite of the long sleeves.

Two for the Price of One

2010-03-26T07:00:00.002-04:00

I just got a message from my mojo. She was very apologetic about leaving without notice and said she was on her way back home. I knew she would come back. She always does. But I'm not waiting for her return. I'm working on two –count 'em – two blouses. Here's the story ……

When my daughter came back from Morocco last year, she brought three pieces of fabric for me. Her host mother (a professional seamstress!) selected the fabrics and I was supposed to make some Moroccan caftan-like garment. I'm not really a woman who wears caftans so I selected a tunic (Burda 06-2009-135) instead. The fabric is a crinkled cotton and I also have an aqua/turquoise piece. After I laid out the tunic, there was enough fabric left for another project, as long as it didn't require lots of yardage. I searched my index for a blouse and found Burda Plus Fashion Spring/Summer 2006 #402. The blouses differ enough so that no one should notice they are from the same fabric. I would really like to have the long sleeved tunic finished before I go to Virginia to visit my daughter next week even though I'm sure she won't recognize the fabric unless I remind her.

I really want to use the trim DD and her host-mom selected. I won't use the trim unless I can come up with creative way to do so. So far, the best I've come up with is the put a small bit of trim on the tab. Using trim along the hems would make the tunic look retro and that isn't the look I was going for. I think of Summerset's perfectly embellished, prize winning art pieces and the best I can do is a three-inch piece of trim on a placket! Life really isn't fair.

A Sewing Ministry

2010-03-21T10:18:00.007-04:00

My sewing mojo is AWOL. I've learned how to deal with my missing mojo. If you love your mojo, set it free. Invariably , I'm more hungry to sew by the time my mojo comes back.

In the meantime, I have a project that doesn't require a mojo. My church has started a sewing ministry. Our first project is making baby clothes for a women's shelter. So far we have 5 "willing workers". I suspect some women wanted to join the ministry for free sewing lessons and they didn't make it past the first organizational meeting (Praise God). We made Kwik-Sew 3309 t-shirts in an assembly line. One person cut, another person sewed the neckband, another person sewed the sleeves and since I was late, I sewed on the neckband and sewed up the sides. I don't care for assembly line sewing. With four different people with varying degrees of experience working on one shirt, the finished product is a little quirky. A few of the shirts were sewn wrong side out. Our "Minister of Sewing" and I took a pile of the shirts home to hem. I never really liked sewing knits and putting a narrow 1/4 inch hem in a knit was not really that much fun. I finished the edges with my serger using the differential feed feature. Then I used the serged stitches as a guide when turning up the hem. Finally I used a twin needle to sew the hems. I was trying to eliminate the waviness and I was moderately successful. The wavy seams and hems are the reason I never liked sewing knits. However, I am glad to be "sewing for the Lord". I like sharing my sewing skill somewhat anonymously. Hopefully, more sewers will join the ministry once we get rolling.